Posts by aksthem1
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The Mackies and Rokits are made for near field listening. While the Swans are for multimedia use.
So you decide to play a movie or listen to some music 10ft+ away, then you may not completely impressed.
Swan came out with a new version of the D1080, D1080 IV, and uses the same woofer from the M200 series. And from what I have read, it has the same crossovers and amp from the M200 MKII.
Could be a cheaper alternative from the M200 MKII and MKIII.
So you decide to play a movie or listen to some music 10ft+ away, then you may not completely impressed.
Swan came out with a new version of the D1080, D1080 IV, and uses the same woofer from the M200 series. And from what I have read, it has the same crossovers and amp from the M200 MKII.
Could be a cheaper alternative from the M200 MKII and MKIII.
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Great music sub, but not the best for movies. Then again it's an 8" sub. Though it's still miles ahead of HTIB subs.
I've had it. It's a good sub, but it's not really boomy until you get to its limitations. At which point it clips.Originally Posted by bigkahuna360
Is the Pioneer SW-8 a good booming subwoofer? Anyone have/had one of these care to tell?
Great music sub, but not the best for movies. Then again it's an 8" sub. Though it's still miles ahead of HTIB subs.
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What's your budget for a subwoofer?Originally Posted by bigkahuna360
Mixed but more accuracy than boom.
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It's a good card actually. There is a company in the UK, IIRC, that will mod the hell out of it. I heard it was on par with the Essence line before the mod. Has a quality Japanese audio DAC. Even used in $1,000+ external DACs. Another plus is removable Op-amps. I was going to buy it until I got a good deal on my Titanium HD.Originally Posted by nvidiaftw12
What do you guys think of this card? It my sound card in my system, I just want to see what you guys think of it.
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With the DTA-100 a 8 ohm load is the minimum as it states. Speaker impedance changes at different frequencies. Dipping too low can damage the amp or burn it out. This is just a safeguard because different speakers will react differently.
If you want just an amp that can do 50w cleanly then you are going to spend a lot more than $100. The APA150 will do that of course. Huge thing that is.
With the Polks they are 89dB of sensitivity. They are very efficient and 40w is more than enough to cause hearing damage at nearfield ranges.
If you want just an amp that can do 50w cleanly then you are going to spend a lot more than $100. The APA150 will do that of course. Huge thing that is.
With the Polks they are 89dB of sensitivity. They are very efficient and 40w is more than enough to cause hearing damage at nearfield ranges.
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Honestly, spend the extra $10 when the Pioneer BS21s are on sale for $50. You won't be disappointed.
They are comparatively similar. Even though the R150 has a bit smaller woofer it does slightly better in the low end response. I tried them out for a while.Originally Posted by nvidiaftw12
Simca, how would these compare to the b652's for the price? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290039&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL010413&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL010413-_-EMC-010413-Index-_-HomeAudioSpeakers-_-82290039-L08B
Honestly, spend the extra $10 when the Pioneer BS21s are on sale for $50. You won't be disappointed.
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It's cheap and will get the job done, but I'd still invest in a better amp though.
The BS22s are usually $50 at Newegg. And the P153s go for $100 at Fry's every so often.Originally Posted by bratcat
Hi! I need help choosing a pair of speaker for my desktop. Which one should i go for between the pioneer bs22s and the primus p153s? They both are at the same price on amazon atm.
Can i use the lepai 2020 to power them?
Thank you.
It's cheap and will get the job done, but I'd still invest in a better amp though.
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The Gigaworks T40 isn't bad and has a decent amount of bass, but I would go with the Microlabs. There are a lot of different Swans so you would have to specify.Originally Posted by dioxholster
Does it have good bass though? are you sure not Creative GigaWorks T40 Series II they have 3 drivers? microlab is out of stock at the moment.
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Plus with car subs you pay more for the same quality as a home theater sub driver. Then they have a lower nominal impedance which may or not be bad if you have an amp cable of driving it. As you stated.
DIY Subwoofers aren't cheap and not many people here are willing to spend so much to have a good sub. While I have nothing against car subs, many of them don't too well for home use. The high Fs on some is a drawback and compensate with the cabinet gain on cars.Originally Posted by hatrix216
May I recommend adding a DIY subwoofer section ? One for those who want to build their own box and really go all out on bass. These will in general be louder than any active subwoofer brands already recommended. Most subs are made to order (custom options you can choose, so most have build times).
I've been into car audio for years and know of the best brands. As I said, these would be considered "DIY" because you would have to make a box for them (to recommended specs), or buy a prefab box (NOT recommended unless its from DC creations or Khaotic Enclosures).
Brands of extremely high quality subwoofers:
Fi Car Audio (I personally run an SSD 18" in my car on 1200 watts @ 1 ohm)
SSA Audio
Sundown Audio (I own a E8v3 for use in my room)
Incriminator Audio
Ascendant Audio
Digital Designs Audio
All of these brands have different classes of woofers to suit ones needs. SQ, SPL, or both. My SSD 18" back when it was bought 5 years or so ago was a little over $300 with shipping. My Sundown E8v3 was $95 shipped. I also have a friends Sundown Audio Zv.2 18" sitting in my room, a $500 subwoofer.
These are serious brands of subwoofers, especially their higher priced subs. They are LOUD when put in proper enclosures with correct power.
Do note, since these are meant for car audio, it's assumed you will be running these off of car amplifiers. It's plenty possible to use a plate amp, I did it for a while with my 18" in my room. However, chances are it's going to be underpowered, as you aren't going to find a plate amp that puts out 800 watts for cheap, let alone one that's rated under 4 ohms.
Don't disregard these because they are car audio, they are fully capable of being run in a home setup. You just need to know what you're doing![thumb.gif]()
Plus with car subs you pay more for the same quality as a home theater sub driver. Then they have a lower nominal impedance which may or not be bad if you have an amp cable of driving it. As you stated.
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For 2 channel audio the interface doesn't matter. Even USB1.1 is enough. And USB 2.0, PCI, PCIe 1x is more than enough to satisfy multichannel audio. An uncompressed 32 bit 384kHz file of 8 channels is 12MB/s. That would require some serious processing power on the DAC though.
PCI is 266MB/s while PCIe-1x v1 is 250MB/s. V3 is about 1GB/s.Originally Posted by liquidzoo
PCI is older and being phased out (mostly on Intel based boards right now, but AMD will likely follow). I don't know enough about the spec to say what the bandwidth difference is between PCI and PCI-e x1.
For 2 channel audio the interface doesn't matter. Even USB1.1 is enough. And USB 2.0, PCI, PCIe 1x is more than enough to satisfy multichannel audio. An uncompressed 32 bit 384kHz file of 8 channels is 12MB/s. That would require some serious processing power on the DAC though.
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The bases attach to pretty much anything the adhesive can adhere to. So yeah it should fit.Originally Posted by Sebiale
Could anyone who has one confirm that the AntLion modmic would be able to attach to a Creative Aurvana Live?
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