This is what i did with my 3770k, cpu clamped, It been many years since I delidded it, I haven't changed the liquid metal or the Tim since 2014/15. temps are great, [email protected]A bit of advice.. When deliding 10th gen. Heat the cpu up with a heat gun or hair drier if you dont have a heat gun to help soften the solder. It makes deliding much easier and vastly reduces the risk of cracking the die.
You want to try to get the ihs up to at least 200F. If your gun doesnt have a temp sensor a cheat is once a drop of water boils on the IHS, it’s ready.
Sort of a hack to see what the temps are if you don’t have a temp gun Water boils at 212F which is perfect for the IHS. Anything around 200F softens it nicely and the IHS comes off with little force....
This is advice directly from James at Rockitcool And I can confirm it works well....
The relid frame guides are really only for if you are going to glue either the stock ihs or the copper upgraded ihs back on... One frame for the stock ish and one frame for the upgraded copper ihs. Thats why its saying the one will not work with the other. The foot print is slightly different. But honestly if I were you I wouldnt bother gluing the ihs back on. Once delided and you have cleaned off the excess solder from the die and prepped the cpu, apply the liquid metal and then set the cpu in the socket. Then carefully set the IHS on the cpu in the center then clamp down the socket cpu bracket. The motherboard cpu clamp bracket will hold the IHS in place no problem. Also makes redoing the liquid metal very easy. Again. Only reason I personally would glue the ihs back on is if I was selling the cpu to someone else and they are not comfortable with something like that.
Oh yeah and dont forget to cover the little contacts on the top of the cpu beside the die with some nail polish or liquid electrical tape.... You dont want any liquid metal seepage to touch them and short your cpu
Nail polish sounds like a cool trick. I did not do that with my 3770k, its bare.