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Hi,
Never checked but I doubt they are interchangeable.

Just did and no way
Screw holes are different and depth of cold plate is very different.
Mags cold plate is very shallow so you'd need a 1/4" gasket at least and would still leak lol
thank you so much for this! i saw the very different shallow cold plate but was thinking the screws may have lined up. Honestly wish I could afford the block but it was some late night thinking of how to macgyver a semi ryzen optimized block :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:. I'm thinking about rotating my ek supremacy vertical and see if it improves the cooling performance on one of the chiplets. Just need to stop thinking about a new block and plan to disassemble the loop.
 

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thank you so much for this! i saw the very different shallow cold plate but was thinking the screws may have lined up. Honestly wish I could afford the block but it was some late night thinking of how to macgyver a semi ryzen optimized block :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:. I'm thinking about rotating my ek supremacy vertical and see if it improves the cooling performance on one of the chiplets. Just need to stop thinking about a new block and plan to disassemble the loop.
Hi,
Yeah I'm into the Macgyver thang but not quite on this one :)
But for a lot less than a magnitude you can get a 120.us optimus foundation a much better block I have both
Get the copper and it shouldn't take long to get either nickle gets hung up because it's done elsewhere
 

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Howdy to all, been lurking a lot lately.

Switched over to the magnitude a while back after some heavy corrosion on my other blocks (RIP Sig V2 and stock Aorus blocks), I went too long without a clean due to wfh craziness and not being able to do a full teardown for too long. Something I'll never do again... Roast me all ya want haha

After a lot of OC fiddling and all the RVEE BIOSes, I am currently "happy" with this latest setup on the 0.5p jetplate. 0603 Titsuo (thanks) modded bios.
On this 10980xe, temp spread on load is almost exactly 10C between hottest and coldest. 75-85 on 1hr realbench, single loop. Using KPx paste, spread has been even on the IHS. Outside realbench, highs are in the mid 70s when doing fluid sims, cinebench is low 80s. [email protected] 1.240

After reading through the thread, got halfway before just deciding to ask. Read an article stating the 0.6p jetplate offers slightly better flow vs 0.5p jetplate, however this was a review for the AMD variant:


Those using 10980xe, have you decided to stick with 0.5p or have you found better overall results, even slightly, with 0.6p jetplate? I have a full teardown planned for next weekend and was planning to try the 0.6p out. Using stock coldplate, stock IHS. Sadly, I don't have the luxury of tearing this machine down whenever I want anymore so it's why I ask.

Also, if I were to pick a flow meter with least resistance with it's own readout, no mobo connection or auquacomputer situation, would koolance be the way to go? As always, thank you!

Edited for wrong sim temp value
 

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The 6P jet plate gives you more bow which may or may not be necessary. Im using the 5P and its working just fine. AMD and Intel are two different critters. You are going to need a mobo connection no matter which you choose for power. Surprisingly a barrowch works well and will give you feedback of flow rate to whatever if you want or just plug it into any fan header for power and it shows you the flow rate you can look in and see just fine. I checked my aqaero againt a borrowed $8000 mass flow meter and it was within tolerance of less than 1% and then the barrochch against the aquaero and its almost dead on so Im using that at the minute but about to put in an aquaero next flowmeter that will even give you coolant conductivity. Anyhow the barrowch is pretty small and had a nice OLED display.


This is what Im going to because I do use aquaaero extensively

barrowch

In my rig running connected to flowmeter port of my aquaero 6 but you can connect it to any fan header or if your mobo has a flow header thats even better. No matter what they need power. Yes thats a lot of flow. 3X D5 pumps in series magnitude block with 5P, tried 6P and my temp spread got worse, too much bow (TIM application is a big deal on these blocks, minimal is better) Asll in loop are two heatkiller 2080Ti blocks, GTR 420 rad, 480XE rad, 360SE rad and GTS 360 rad. All thats about to change, adding a MORA3-420 over the next few days. so two of the rads inside in the least are going bye bye. That will also have two more D5 for a total of 5 but wanted to make sure I can maintain 500L/hr min. Some say lower is OK but i get better performance with more flow.

IMG_0308.jpg


MORA3 420 on the building bench.....aka my desk.


IMG_0298.jpg
 

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Quite true, temps drop 5-10c when i do my 4.7 1.8, will most likely go to that for 24/7 work. I was just happy to finally find a bios that let me do 4.8 in the 80c realm haha. It's the microcodes correct? Forgive my ignorance, gonna ask which is best in the rampage VI forum.

I think I need to share my settings across the board since I might be missing something somewhere.

So that barrow works? I was shifty on that one... I've had it in my wishlist so I'll go for it, have a good spot in the Elite for it.

Thanks mate, as always!
 

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Quite true, temps drop 5-10c when i do my 4.7 1.8, will most likely go to that for 24/7 work. I was just happy to finally find a bios that let me do 4.8 in the 80c realm haha. It's the microcodes correct? Forgive my ignorance, gonna ask which is best in the rampage VI forum.

I think I need to share my settings across the board since I might be missing something somewhere.

So that barrow works? I was shifty on that one... I've had it in my wishlist so I'll go for it, have a good spot in the Elite for it.

Thanks mate, as always!
Thats a good one ran it for quite some time but one even better is later in the thread, 702 with MC29 micorcode. I ran the same one you are on for awhile. The 702 got me lower voltages for the same clocks and higher performance. Im about to dive in the the modded 901. All credit to restsugavan on ROG forum. Ive not tried it yet so as always BIOS is at your own risk but restsugavan is a trusted source. This one also has rebar in it.


One thing is for sure, they all run better than whats on the ASUS page. With each updated MC the performance takes a hit. I have two ROMs so may as well try it out, Have all the BIOS from the beginning including Shaminos 0010.
 

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Thats a good one ran it for quite some time but one even better is later in the thread, 702 with MC29 micorcode. I ran the same one you are on for awhile. The 702 got me lower voltages for the same clocks and higher performance. Im about to dive in the the modded 901. All credit to restsugavan on ROG forum. Ive not tried it yet so as always BIOS is at your own risk but restsugavan is a trusted source. This one also has rebar in it.


One thing is for sure, they all run better than whats on the ASUS page. With each updated MC the performance takes a hit. I have two ROMs so may as well try it out, Have all the BIOS from the beginning including Shaminos 0010.
Hey, I figured out quotes, I haven't posted in a while.

Thank you for clearing that out, I was in a sea of modded BIOSes over there and couldn't make sense of it. Gonna try this one tonight. I keep seeing my voltages and clocks shifting a bit regardless of my clamps, so I wlll ask you in RPE thread. Glad I'm talking again, I'd like to figure my stuff out.
 

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Check out the 10980XE thread, Lots of info there. Im no authority by any means but I do run the crap out of why I have to see how far it goes. Jpm gives some of the best advice here.
He will be pleased that I stopped layering my thermal paste like a cake ;)
 

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He will be pleased that I stopped layering my thermal paste like a cake ;)
LOL

yeah just a dabahdo.
On the magnitude it favors a pea blob in the middle, push straight in and hold firmly until you have two opposing screws making contact, let go then do the same with the remains screws. Then just go around it like a car tire. One turn at a time diagonally. The cold plate on this one is different in that it’s finished on a lathe making it conical. No others do that. But yeah leave the putty knife in the drawer. LOL less is more. Had a discussion with the EK rep on this when testing this block on HEDT as Techpower up used a 9900K and declared a winner over the Optimus signature by 0.10c. Now that’s funny. They sent me a random sample pulled from production instead of a sample that’s been circulated and messed with. My conclusion is they are both competitive. I got the same results within a margin of error out of the box with no modifications. No grinding, lapping, etc. They both, however, are particular on the mounting technique and TIM application. Took me a few tries to get it just right.
 

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@ThrashZone whats the absolute best cheapest waterblock that I should get for my 7980XE? is the Sig V2 worth it over the standard model?

Running a 7980XE, and my cooling system
has made some changes. I am no longer on a AIO.

Running (3) 360’s and a D5 now. 7980XE is delidded and lapped. But my block is mediocre at best, it was like $30 bucks new on Amazon. I am running a Alphacool XP3 light, so I think better performance can easily be obtained.

I appreciate your opinion, thanks.



 

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Just about any block is an improvement. The foundation if you can find it is probably the most economical way or even an HKIV pro. I’ve not tested the foundation yet. Just picked one up to see how it stacks up against the Sig V2 and Magnitude. If you have lapped your IHS then you will need flat. The Magnitude has an optional (you have to buy it separately) flat cold plate. The Optimus you get what you get and can either lap that too in which case you would want a copper cold plate or start with pulling the oring from the signature. I’ve gotten similar results with the Magnitude both acrylic and full metal and Sig V2 on a 10980XE and on a 9940X tested both the Sig V2 and Magnitude full nickel and near identical results. This was of course without modifications to the IHS or the block.
 

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Just about any block is an improvement. The foundation if you can find it is probably the most economical way or even an HKIV pro. I’ve not tested the foundation yet. Just picked one up to see how it stacks up against the Sig V2 and Magnitude. If you have lapped your IHS then you will need flat. The Magnitude has an optional (you have to buy it separately) flat cold plate. The Optimus you get what you get and can either lap that too in which case you would want a copper cold plate or start with pulling the oring from the signature. I’ve gotten similar results with the Magnitude both acrylic and full metal and Sig V2 on a 10980XE and on a 9940X tested both the Sig V2 and Magnitude full nickel and near identical results. This was of course without modifications to the IHS or the block.
I'd be really interested in what you find. I am having issues with the V2 and mounting pressure. I have come to the conclusion that I do not like the springless mounting arrangement of the V2. I am going to see if my EK mounting posts with springs will work with it.
 

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They all ship springless now. I’m actually 180 on the mounting pressure. When I got my sig V2 it came with the springs that I ended up pulling out and eventually they sent me a springless. I’m actually using the studs from the springed mount from sig V2 and a finishing washer flipped upside down and a springless thumbscrew on the magnitude as bottoming out their mount still left a bit to be desired. I go as tight as I can with the thumb screws without putting a tool on it. With initial testing of the magnitude the recommended set point was top of screw flush with the mount. I dropped my temps significantly by bottoming them out then another 3C by changing to the set up mentioned above. I gave them all a good run by manufacturer specs. I’ll try the foundation with the springed mount first just for you but think I’m going to end up with the springless. Another thing worth noting with the springed mount is it’s a major PITA to get started. You have to hold down on the block with a good bit of pressure until you get diagonal screws started or it will pop up the block by the time the threads start. The springs recess into the thumb nuts with that configuration and I don’t believe they are a available any longer.
 

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They all ship springless now. I’m actually 180 on the mounting pressure. When I got my sig V2 it came with the springs that I ended up pulling out and eventually they sent me a springless. I’m actually using the studs from the springed mount from sig V2 and a finishing washer flipped upside down and a springless thumbscrew on the magnitude as bottoming out their mount still left a bit to be desired. I go as tight as I can with the thumb screws without putting a tool on it. With initial testing of the magnitude the recommended set point was top of screw flush with the mount. I dropped my temps significantly by bottoming them out then another 3C by changing to the set up mentioned above. I gave them all a good run by manufacturer specs. I’ll try the foundation with the springed mount first just for you but think I’m going to end up with the springless. Another thing worth noting with the springed mount is it’s a major PITA to get started. You have to hold down on the block with a good bit of pressure until you get diagonal screws started or it will pop up the block by the time the threads start. The springs recess into the thumb nuts with that configuration and I don’t believe they are a available any longer.
That's what I do. I rechecked it the other day and the thumbscrews were loose. I hand tightened them after turning off the PC and when I restarted it, Windows went into self repair mode and then wouldn't do anything. I had to reinstall Windows. This happened to me once before when fiddling with my bare die 7900X trying to get good contact. It's very annoying.
 

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Seriously though I’ve not had that problem. Maybe some blue loctite? Or a little Teflon tape?
I heard that happens sometimes when you surf too much pRon.

One other thought TIM. I routinely put it pretty tight, run the pi$$ out of it for a few hours then crank them home. While it’s still nice and warm.
 

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I’ve been thinking the Foundation may have different properties although they are the exact same cold plate. The Sig V2 is a massive chunk of nickel plated brass, all one piece with a cold plate screwed in the bottom where the foundation has an aluminum frame, a chunk of acrylic bolted to that and the cold plate screwed to the bottom. I’m thinking it may have more give when you crank it down than the Sig V2 which may not be a bad thing allowing the cold plate to mold to the IHS a little better. Nothing proven. Just a thought I had reflecting on when Thrash and I were going head to head with the two blocks. I only wish he had waited a bit and finished testing as is out of the box before breaking out the cutting torch and side grinder.
 

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That's what I do. I rechecked it the other day and the thumbscrews were loose. I hand tightened them after turning off the PC and when I restarted it, Windows went into self repair mode and then wouldn't do anything. I had to reinstall Windows. This happened to me once before when fiddling with my bare die 7900X trying to get good contact. It's very annoying.
I mean it's a long shot and I have no idea how much brass expands and contracts but is it possible that it is just becoming loose from expansion and contraction? lol
 
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