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played a lot with my gpu, the core seems to be a dud. memory is insane though, I can hot 1400mhz no problem. so my gpu can do 2055 at 1.031v but it needs 1.081v for 2085 and 1.093v at 2100mhz...

I just ended up uundervolting it to 2055 at 1.031v This is for games btw.
 

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Note: I think .950v is the perfect balance between performance/efficiency for users with 330W power limits. For people who stuck with non-A chips 280W power limit undervolting to .900v helps.

Nice guide mate! This sounds about right in my experience as well. I'm at 320W (by choice) and previously ran 1920 MHz at 925mV, 1935 at 931 and now 1950 at 950 (would be 1965 if card stayed below 45C ). All of these stable for hours. Still testing.
 

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Tried the 450W HAF bios on reference-OC Palit, not working properly.

BIOS is stable and you can run games and such, but the card powerdraw maxes out at default 300w instead of 450w. Used Kombustor/PUBG as testing method, with it I can get the 380w bios to function as expected, 380w powerdraw.

Screenshot of HWINFO64 included as attachment.
 

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@krizby at what undervolt value and clocks do you run your 2080TI at ?
 

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Nice guide mate! This sounds about right in my experience as well. I'm at 320W (by choice) and previously ran 1920 MHz at 925mV, 1935 at 931 and now 1950 at 950 (would be 1965 if card stayed below 45C ). All of these stable for hours. Still testing.
Nice to find someone to share my experiences :D. My finding with undervolt is that for each 50mv increase the GPU use 30W more at 45C (temperature affect efficiency). So for reference here are the value:
.850v ~ 220-240W
.900v ~ 250-270W
.950v ~ 280-300W
1.000v ~ 310-330W
1.050v ~ 340-360W
This is for testing at 3440x1440 resolution, if you are playing game at 4K the load will be higher and if you are playing at 1440p load will be less.
For each 50mv increase after .900v the core clock can be increased by 60mhz, for example 1890mhz/.900v --> 1950mhz/.950v

@krizby at what undervolt value and clocks do you run your 2080TI at ?
As I have a non-A chip that stuck with a 280W power limits, I undervolt to 1890mhz/.900v. Average load during gaming is 250-270W. Maximum GPU temp without undervolting is 50C, with undervolting is 47C.

Tried the 450W HAF bios on reference-OC Palit, not working properly.

BIOS is stable and you can run games and such, but the card powerdraw maxes out at default 300w instead of 450w. Used Kombustor/PUBG as testing method, with it I can get the 380w bios to function as expected, 380w powerdraw.

Screenshot of HWINFO64 included as attachment.
Lol don't trust the wattage value that HWinfo give you dude, I see your bios is 400W at 100% and 450W at 112%, looking at AB graph your card sit at 100% power usage already. Just calculate wattage from the power % that AB give you.
 

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First test (I think) of Aqua Computer's kryographics next water block.

It's late to the party, but according to Igor it beats the previous best (Heatkiller IV). It's in German, but pictures and videos are mostly self-explanatory. ;) Ambient (air) temp is 22C, (chilled) water temp is 20C.

The installation was a bit fiddly apparently (but so were most other 2080 Ti water block installs), and the optional normal or active backplates were not tested (would be in the way for the temperature readings).
 

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checking on GPUz i don't like how it reports my GPU subvendor as NVIDIA instead of GALAX(y)










is that alright ?

When i flashed that bios my sub vnedor was listed as galax, Noe it say's Evga as i'm on the 338W Evga XC so i don't think it should say Nvidia. Which card do you have?
 

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Ahem ? Nope to both...btw, my comment was a response to VPII's reported problem



Both my cards have Micron and both do 1040+ on VRAM w/o crashing though I still have to test for the most *efficient* setting rather than just outright *max* before lock-up etc.
Hello my friend..... Card work like a charm in my other windows setup. I think I may have buggered it up when I disabled it before flashing. I'll try again with my other setup to see if I can get in safe mode to see if I can make the required changes. I see it was flashed back to the stock bios so it is fine now. Don't really want to flash it again. I'll test it in this setup with the OS and see that all is still well.
 

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Hi,

I got a RTX 2080 Ti FE with max power limit (123%) and +175 on the core, it does 2040MHz at 1.006mV. Is this considered good? Would it be able to hit 2100MHz stable with the Galax Bios (380W)?. According to MSI afterburner max core registered was 2175Mhz but never seen that number while gaming.
 

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Ahem ? Nope to both...btw, my comment was a response to VPII's reported problem



Both my cards have Micron and both do 1040+ on VRAM w/o crashing though I still have to test for the most *efficient* setting rather than just outright *max* before lock-up etc.
Oops 417.35 driver install resulted in the same.... now I sit without the start-up options in advance menu for shift safe mode try to boot. Opening CMD as admin does not open, so maybe reinstall. WIndows 7 running fine with the card. I reflashed again and all good.

Update Windows 10 reinstalled on original drive. Will test now with 417.58 driver to see if still an issue, if so I'll reinstall again.... just hope windows 10 don't give me activation issues. Worked fine now, I know that 416 drivers work without an issue. No G-sync monitor, but you never know.
 

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Hi, i've Samsung (instead Micron) memory on my ZOTAC 2080ti Triple fan, are you sure that i can put without problem the galax bios on it ?

Is a the samsung card better than the micron in terms of durability? I heard that the memory chips on early batches of 2080ti that broke is the micron one then samsung was used to replace the newer batches.




Wondering if there's a way I could tell the difference between the samsung and micron cards? Going to buy a founders from best buy and dunno if they use new or old batch of card.
 

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played a lot with my gpu, the core seems to be a dud. memory is insane though, I can hot 1400mhz no problem. so my gpu can do 2055 at 1.031v but it needs 1.081v for 2085 and 1.093v at 2100mhz...

I just ended up uundervolting it to 2055 at 1.031v This is for games btw.
Hi there

You are not alone,my GPU is same,core is dud like yours, 2055MHz at 1.05v, 2085-2088MHz at 1.08v and 2100MHz at 1.093v,memory can do 1100MHz easy and beyond that didn't tried

Will do few tests, will remount waterblock and replace EK thermal pads for Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad and will see if this does make any difference if not have at home as well EVGA RTX 2080Ti XC and test this card if its better OC than my one

I would be happy with OC, just if this clocks are stable in rendering mainly in IRAY or Octane but clocks are unstable in rendering and usually I get TDR or hard lock

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 

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Hello my friend..... Card work like a charm in my other windows setup. I think I may have buggered it up when I disabled it before flashing. I'll try again with my other setup to see if I can get in safe mode to see if I can make the required changes. I see it was flashed back to the stock bios so it is fine now. Don't really want to flash it again. I'll test it in this setup with the OS and see that all is still well.


Oops 417.35 driver install resulted in the same.... now I sit without the start-up options in advance menu for shift safe mode try to boot. Opening CMD as admin does not open, so maybe reinstall. WIndows 7 running fine with the card. I reflashed again and all good.

Update Windows 10 reinstalled on original drive. Will test now with 417.58 driver to see if still an issue, if so I'll reinstall again.... just hope windows 10 don't give me activation issues. Worked fine now, I know that 416 drivers work without an issue. No G-sync monitor, but you never know.

Hi VPII - ..sounds like progress, and good to hear that your card is ok :thumbsups . Windows (both 7 and 10) have an entry for each GPU PER Bios, including a new ID flashed Bios on the same card...so a card with triple Bios will have three registry entries and if you run Tri-SLI, it's nine entries. Sometimes, it does not distinguish correctly between them anymore and you have a choice of either trying to hack the registry to death (searching for anything related to 'NVidia') or do a fresh WIN install. Subsequent activation issues can be a hassle, but probably the lesser of two evils... anyway, at least you know your card is ok and the Galax 380w is probably your best choice (w/ the extra cooling as it has been reported to run a bit toastier..). Also, you might want to uninstall MSI AB, including saved profiles !
 

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Is a the samsung card better than the micron in terms of durability? I heard that the memory chips on early batches of 2080ti that broke is the micron one then samsung was used to replace the newer batches.

Wondering if there's a way I could tell the difference between the samsung and micron cards? Going to buy a founders from best buy and dunno if they use new or old batch of card.

According to earlier posts in this thread, apparently both some of the Micron and Samsung-equipped earlier cards got bricked :mad:

As to buying a ''new'' FE card from Best Buy, given the shortage in supply and related price increases, it may not have been on the shelf that long. Besides, a bit of sleuthing should tell you what serial numbers they're at now, and you can compare that to the one(s) you think of picking up.
 

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Hi VPII - ..sounds like progress, and good to hear that your card is ok :thumbsups . Windows (both 7 and 10) have an entry for each GPU PER Bios, including a new ID flashed Bios on the same card...so a card with triple Bios will have three registry entries and if you run Tri-SLI, it's nine entries. Sometimes, it does not distinguish correctly between them anymore and you have a choice of either trying to hack the registry to death (searching for anything related to 'NVidia') or do a fresh WIN install. Subsequent activation issues can be a hassle, but probably the lesser of two evils... anyway, at least you know your card is ok and the Galax 380w is probably your best choice (w/ the extra cooling as it has been reported to run a bit toastier..). Also, you might want to uninstall MSI AB, including saved profiles !
417.58 Driver is a go.... no problems thus far all good. So thanks.... Windows 10 re activated and all good.... now just for a ton of downloads and with the speed here is SA.... a few days at least.
 

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417.58 Driver is a go.... no problems thus far all good. So thanks.... Windows 10 re activated and all good.... now just for a ton of downloads and with the speed here is SA.... a few days at least.

... :thumb:

PS...I remember downloading on a 56.6 kbs modem :sick: hopefully, your connection is faster than that. Then again, vid drivers were about 20mb tops in those days, not 500
 
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