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@Imprezzion

In my case no core temperatures what will influence my instability, usually its down to games, in some games I'm running 2190-2205MHz, in some 2160MHz or 2175MHz is max which I can run and in some DXR games like Metro Exodus and others I'm running 2130-2145MHz as max, for benchmarks I use 2205MHz or 2220MHz OC profile

In rendering I'm running on both RTX 2080Ti 2055-2085MHz as max, anything above that will result in CUDA errors,only Octane can be run with 2115-2130MHz OC

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 

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@Imprezzion

In my case no core temperatures what will influence my instability, usually its down to games, in some games I'm running 2190-2205MHz, in some 2160MHz or 2175MHz is max which I can run and in some DXR games like Metro Exodus and others I'm running 2130-2145MHz as max, for benchmarks I use 2205MHz or 2220MHz OC profile

In rendering I'm running on both RTX 2080Ti 2055-2085MHz as max, anything above that will result in CUDA errors,only Octane can be run with 2115-2130MHz OC

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
This seems to be the case with most watercooled 2080Ti’s. I remember running Doom eternal and I could managed 2,175Mhz all day. But RDR2 being more demanding would push me down to 2,115-2,130 range. I think I was hitting power limits on my last 2080Ti though In some situations.

I think a water chiller is really the only way to stay beyond 2,200 in virtually anything.
 

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My card isn't a very good bin lol. It maxed in any title at 2085 on EVGA BIOS and 2130 on 1.125v XOC BIOS.

So, there is really no need to run like 40c with my fans cranked if it's just as stable at 55c with utter silence on the same clocks with just a slightly higher curve starting point to compensate for the temperature clock drops.

It's just a Kraken X52 cooling it tho, not a full cover block.
 

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Wow nice. Highest I got on XOC under the X52 was 16700 something lol. That was on 2160 core with 8100 memory. It artifacts pretty bad but does complete the run.
 

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Wow nice. Highest I got on XOC under the X52 was 16700 something lol. That was on 2160 core with 8100 memory. It artifacts pretty bad but does complete the run.
Maybe the card is just good. I dunno. I’ve owned several 2080Ti’s never seen these numbers on air cooling though.
 

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Hey guys I've had my STRIX 2080ti with factory OC for almost 2 years now and it's been working flawlessly, until the 5th season of Modern Warfare 2 months ago where I started to CTD with Dev Error 6068. After some research it looked like underclocking the core clock of the card might fix the issue and sure enough a -40MHz underclock did the trick - for a while.

Soon the problem started occurring again and I kept underclocking, until now I'm at -400MHz and I just had the card crash so hard that I lost signal to my monitor and had to hard reboot my machine. Clearly this can't go on so I was wondering if you guys had a sense for whether I had a dying card or if there's some things I can do on my end to investigate or fix the issue? What I've done so far is:

1.Underclock the core clock using Afterburner.

2. Keep an eye on temps using Afterburner (which never got higher than about 64C for some reason).

3. Removed, inspected, and reseated the card ensuring I have dual power cables from my PSU instead of the old split cable.

4. Used DDU to completely remove and reinstall my drivers.

The machine is a 4790k 4GHz on MSI Z97 MPOWER MAX AC with 32GB 1600Mhz DDR3 running latest Windows 10 2004 build. I've started an RMA with ASUS but I'm all ears if you guys have any suggestions as to what I can try before I ship it back. Thanks much!
 

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Sounds like degradation of the core honestly. RMA is probably your best bet indeed.
 

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Just got a EVGA RMA on my 2080ti. It got me thinking, would it make more sense to sell it? Is it faster than the 3070 at least?
 

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Hey guys I've had my STRIX 2080ti with factory OC for almost 2 years now and it's been working flawlessly, until the 5th season of Modern Warfare 2 months ago where I started to CTD with Dev Error 6068. After some research it looked like underclocking the core clock of the card might fix the issue and sure enough a -40MHz underclock did the trick - for a while.

Soon the problem started occurring again and I kept underclocking, until now I'm at -400MHz and I just had the card crash so hard that I lost signal to my monitor and had to hard reboot my machine. Clearly this can't go on so I was wondering if you guys had a sense for whether I had a dying card or if there's some things I can do on my end to investigate or fix the issue? What I've done so far is:

1.Underclock the core clock using Afterburner.

2. Keep an eye on temps using Afterburner (which never got higher than about 64C for some reason).

3. Removed, inspected, and reseated the card ensuring I have dual power cables from my PSU instead of the old split cable.

4. Used DDU to completely remove and reinstall my drivers.

The machine is a 4790k 4GHz on MSI Z97 MPOWER MAX AC with 32GB 1600Mhz DDR3 running latest Windows 10 2004 build. I've started an RMA with ASUS but I'm all ears if you guys have any suggestions as to what I can try before I ship it back. Thanks much!
...I assume you have running the stock Bios and with / without extra voltage on the MSI AB slider ? In any case, with what you describe, @Imprezzion's advice makes sense
 

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Having several problems with my Asus 2080ti OC just lately, asking for help. First one is, I updated GPU Tweak II to the Asus latest, and can't seem to "apply" my settings so they are active and survive reboot. When I try to "apply", all settings go to "default".

Second one may be a hardware problem: with one or two PWM fans attached to the front of the GPU, under "user defined", "fan re-calibrate" fails, and there is no fan response at the set temperatures. The ports themselves seem OK, because I can set a "manual" fan speed. I can't find any info whatever on these ports.
 

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Ya thanks guys it definitely behaves like a slowly degrading piece of gear so I'm gonna RMA it. Wish me luck, I've heard nothing but bad things about ASUS RMA and it's not like they have piles of new 2080 ti's lying around. 🙄
 
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Ya thanks guys it definitely behaves like a slowly degrading piece of gear so I'm gonna RMA it. Wish me luck, I've heard nothing but bad things about ASUS RMA and it's not like they have piles of new 2080 ti's lying around. 🙄
Yea they are probably going hold it for 2 months just to say that everything is fine with your card
 

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Just got a EVGA RMA on my 2080ti. It got me thinking, would it make more sense to sell it? Is it faster than the 3070 at least?
It depends - most of the time it is - in almost all titles that use rasterization only it should be faster - it seem to be 1-2% slower in some Raytracing titles(but very few - sometimes its is even 1-2% faster). The 2080Ti is definitly faster in titles that profit from more than 8 GB - i. e. MS Flight Sim. 2020.

In the end the answer is – yes - most of the times it is faster than a RTX 3070 FE.


…and most 2080Tis have some headroom for OC – more than the RTX 30xx it seems…

And you can't buy a RTX 3070/3080/3090 anyway - at least not for a decent price...

Best regards,
Medizinmann
 

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Ya thanks guys it definitely behaves like a slowly degrading piece of gear so I'm gonna RMA it. Wish me luck, I've heard nothing but bad things about ASUS RMA and it's not like they have piles of new 2080 ti's lying around. 🙄
RMAd my card 2 times with them (2 weeks wait both times - Canada), first they sent me a old card with micron that was giving dx errors in apex, so I sent it back, then I got a nice one (ok core and samsung mem).

Be sure to detail everything on the paper that you put in the box, that's the only thing that gets read.
The second time around I even wrote not to send me an old (early batch) card.
 

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Got my system almost finished, at least the most important part.

It's not perfect yet, but performs well.

2465342
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Spec's:


🙂
 

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Just got a EVGA RMA on my 2080ti. It got me thinking, would it make more sense to sell it? Is it faster than the 3070 at least?
I am leading over a RTX3070 FE by at least 25% with my 2080Ti FE with 11GB Vram its a no brainer for me.
 

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Hey guys!

So I have a MSI RTX2080 Ti Ventus OC. It's an A-Bin GPU and I have a full watercooling block on it. Gaming doesn't even break a sweat under 50ºC.
So I was trying to flash its vBIOS to a more power delivering 380W vBIOS, specifically this KFA2 one - KFA2 RTX 2080 Ti VBIOS

I've tried NVFlash64 and NVFlash64 with '--protectoff' command but I'm not able to flash the stock vBIOS, I get this message and an aborted process:
XUSB FW component of the input GPU firmware image is imcompatible, please use
a newer version of GPU firmware image for this product.

BIOS Cert 2.0 Verification Error, Update aborted.
Anyone have any insight on what I'm doing wrong? Is it to do with the newer XUSB FW? My card is pretty newish, got it early 2020. Is there still a way of flashing without special tools or equipment?

Also, I have 3 questions which I should probably clear up before actually updating the vBIOS 😅😅
-With good temperatures, will it affect the working life of my card in any measurable way. To put it simply, will it crap out sooner?
-Should I check what the external I/O is on the new vBIOS in order to match/not lose any of my card's I/O connections?
-Is there a better fitting vBIOS for this particular card?

I've been searching a lot thru this thread but could not clear this up.
Thanks a lot!
 

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2080TIs made in 2019 (I believe) use XUSB and are not compatible with earlier cards. Unfortunately, most of the high-end PL BIOS are from older cards. I'm not sure if there are any higher power-limit BIOS' made for XUSB cards, maybe someone else knows.
 
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