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Ah...Damn a place by me had a the 3090 FTW for 1,800 the other day. I should have bought it and sold my 2080ti before it does tank. The guy at the store told me to wait because Nvidia is going to release a 3080ti that will be almost as powerful for like 800 less. Idk. I do video editing work and the extra cuda cores coulda helped probably.
3080 Ti is now certainly coming, most likely at $999. But if anyone wants to compare prices then compare directly, not between top model of 3090 and base price of 3080 Ti. 3080 Ti FTW3 is going to be $1200.
 

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Well - not everybody is into soldering...and it isn't really necessary if you can flash a BIOS with higher Power Budget.

I can hit 2145 Mhz and up to 397W on the KFA2/Galax BIOS...

But – yes – if he can’t – he can resort to this and solder resistors on it.

Best regards,
Medizinmann

if he can flash then sure, you don’t have to take the video card out of your case lol. But, I can solder a resistor faster. And it is easier than delidding a CPU.

I flashed to the Galax 380 watt bios, and soldered the shunts. You need all the power you can provide to get past 2,130-2,145Mhz. Anyways, my EKWB waterblock will be here this week. I’m looking forward to it. It is so amazing what you can squeeze out of a 2080Ti.
 

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if he can flash then sure, you don’t have to take the video card out of your case lol. But, I can solder a resistor faster. And it is easier than delidding a CPU.

I flashed to the Galax 380 watt bios, and soldered the shunts. You need all the power you can provide to get past 2,130-2,145Mhz. Anyways, my EKWB waterblock will be here this week. I’m looking forward to it. It is so amazing what you can squeeze out of a 2080Ti.
I'm using the EK waterblock too. No backplate. Please tell us if the soddered resistors interfere in any way with the block itself.

Also can you provide a link on exactly what kind of resistors are the best quality to use? Trying to find a source on them in europe. Thanks!
 

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if he can flash then sure, you don’t have to take the video card out of your case lol. But, I can solder a resistor faster. And it is easier than delidding a CPU.
Well - might be - but as I said - not everybody is into soldering - same goes for delidding CPUs...

I flashed to the Galax 380 watt bios, and soldered the shunts. You need all the power you can provide to get past 2,130-2,145Mhz. Anyways, my EKWB waterblock will be here this week. I’m looking forward to it. It is so amazing what you can squeeze out of a 2080Ti.
My GPU crashes beyond 2145 MHz - and that has nothing to do with the power budget - I would need much better cooling - I was able to do one Timespy run @2160 MHz - but that was with lowered ambient (open windows last winter freezing 13°C room temps...brr...❄).

...and it isn't stable under "normal" circumstances like 22-23°C ambient.

I.e. user Imprezzion reported some success with XOC BIOS and saw power draw over 400W - but he also reported instabilities and diminishing returns beyond 400W.

Best regards,
Medizinmann
 

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Well - might be - but as I said - not everybody is into soldering - same goes for delidding CPUs...



My GPU crashes beyond 2145 MHz - and that has nothing to do with the power budget - I would need much better cooling - I was able to do one Timespy run @2160 MHz - but that was with lowered ambient (open windows last winter freezing 13°C room temps...brr...❄).

...and it isn't stable under "normal" circumstances like 22-23°C ambient.

I.e. user Imprezzion reported some success with XOC BIOS and saw power draw over 400W - but he also reported instabilities and diminishing returns beyond 400W.

Best regards,
Medizinmann
Any idea what XOC bios works on reference PCB “A“ bin 2080Ti?

I hear the kingpin 2000 watt Bios works and will lock 2,160Mhz-2,175Mhz for 55-60C GPU temps. I have read this twice on google, just confirming it works on reference PCB.

I am still playing with the 380 watt Galax bios right now. I have the shunts soldered too.

 

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Guys, I can't flash my Gigabyte 2080ti turbo with any bios. Just always receive an error about board ID. I have tried to use patched NVFlash 5.590: nvflash biosname
How to flash another bios?
2466172
 

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Hi guys.

I am having a weird problem ... if you can find an explanation for me I will be grateful.

I have a RTX 2080Ti Aorus (not xtreme) and each time I flash the BIOS Galax XOC which removes all limits my PC freeze on MSI Afterburner same as stock ... the card works very well in stock and it is 100% stable ... but when I try to manipulate MSI Afterburner the PC freezes and reboots on its own.

if you could explain to me?
 

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Any idea what XOC bios works on reference PCB “A“ bin 2080Ti?

I hear the kingpin 2000 watt Bios works and will lock 2,160Mhz-2,175Mhz for 55-60C GPU temps. I have read this twice on google, just confirming it works on reference PCB.

I am still playing with the 380 watt Galax bios right now. I have the shunts soldered too.
I believe all of the "XOC" BIOSes work on A chip reference PCB cards. I've flashed mine with the following:
-STRIX XOC BIOS = no v-f curve, so you end up with 1.05v under load, totally useless.
-HOF XOC BIOS = has v-f curve functionality, but attempting to save or load profiles in Afterburner will cause your computer to reboot, so also totally useless.
-KPE XOC BIOS = no v-f curve functionality, locked at 1.125v even on the desktop, so totally useless for daily use IMO.

In all cases, you lose at least one display port output.

If your card is shunt modded, there's no reason to run an XOC BIOS unless you're hoping that last bit of voltage helps you run 3dmark 15mhz faster. I believe my card ran 2175mhz through Port Royal with the KPE XOC BIOS first try, but only made it maybe halfway through at 2190mhz before crashing. I can get 2175mhz through Port Royal as low at 1.075v on a regular BIOS, so I gain nothing from the XOC BIOS.
 

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They've been doing that for years though so I don't see how that could flip someone so strongly this generation. Could be that though, that's just how I feel about it.
More like "I know ya'll have been doing shady **** for years but this is just embarrasing"... that
 

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Need some input from 2080 ti owners using a custom v/f curve in AB. I set my curve when my card is idling at 26c. I set a point of [email protected] For some reason, even though in-game the clock is shown to be running at 2085mhz, the point has moved itself to [email protected] Probably after a reboot. Not sure why other than it being the nature of GPU Boost. What is the trick to making sure the curve does not change on its own? Other than hard lock CTRL+L.
 

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Just bought me a cheap 2080Ti from Craigslist, only drawback it had was it was completely naked. No heatsink/cooler, good thing is that it is reference design and I have 3 coolers (I have owned a lot of 2080tis, I know it's a problem lol) to choose from. I sold my last 2080ti in hopes of grabbing a 6800xt or 3080 but those are still hard to get and this 2080ti was cheap. Will post once I decide what cooler to attach.

2466261
 

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Just bought me a cheap 2080Ti from Craigslist, only drawback it had was it was completely naked. No heatsink/cooler, good thing is that it is reference design and I have 3 coolers (I have owned a lot of 2080tis, I know it's a problem lol) to choose from. I sold my last 2080ti in hopes of grabbing a 6800xt or 3080 but those are still hard to get and this 2080ti was cheap. Will post once I decide what cooler to attach.

View attachment 2466261
Same here! I’m on my 4th 2080Ti in the past 6 months. I have ultimately decided that a 2.1+GHz 2080Ti is just as competitive as anything else available. But they do a better in Raytracing than the AMD cards.

I just water cooled this one yesterday, it has really good Samsung memory on it too.

 

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The 2080Ti is an impressive piece of silicone and nvidia really locked them down. My previous one water-cooled was a beast. I might re attempt to water cool this one since I had to use the evga blower type cooler. Could not use the zotac cooler since those fans use soldered mini gpu 4 pin connectors instead of the mini 14pin. Could not use the dual fan evga because I could not find the midplate that covers the ram and vrm. The evga blower with spacer on the 4 main screws seems to do the job. Ran the 3dmark loop stress test and played 30mins of doom eternal and gpu works flawlessly. Not a bad gpu for 300. I did take a chance but I picked up the GPU from that person's house so I figured I was safe.
 

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The 2080Ti is an impressive piece of silicone and nvidia really locked them down. My previous one water-cooled was a beast. I might re attempt to water cool this one since I had to use the evga blower type cooler. Could not use the zotac cooler since those fans use soldered mini gpu 4 pin connectors instead of the mini 14pin. Could not use the dual fan evga because I could not find the midplate that covers the ram and vrm. The evga blower with spacer on the 4 main screws seems to do the job. Ran the 3dmark loop stress test and played 30mins of doom eternal and gpu works flawlessly. Not a bad gpu for 300. I did take a chance but I picked up the GPU from that person's house so I figured I was safe.
Yeah a properly setup 2080Ti is very capable. Nvidia had no competition on launch, and the 2080Ti was extremely watered down.

There is absolutely no comparison between my 2080Ti and something like a 3070.
 

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Hi guys.

I am having a weird problem ... if you can find an explanation for me I will be grateful.

I have a RTX 2080Ti Aorus (not xtreme) and each time I flash the BIOS Galax XOC which removes all limits my PC freeze on MSI Afterburner same as stock ... the card works very well in stock and it is 100% stable ... but when I try to manipulate MSI Afterburner the PC freezes and reboots on its own.

if you could explain to me?
XOC BIOS doesn't work with Afterburner at boot - so you need to disable Afterburmer starting with Windows...

The other problem sounds like driver problem...

Best regards,
Medizinmann
 

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Any idea what XOC bios works on reference PCB “A“ bin 2080Ti?

I hear the kingpin 2000 watt Bios works and will lock 2,160Mhz-2,175Mhz for 55-60C GPU temps. I have read this twice on google, just confirming it works on reference PCB.

I am still playing with the 380 watt Galax bios right now. I have the shunts soldered too.

User Imprezzion reported some success with Galax HOF XOC BIOS - but not without problems.
You lose a DP Port and you can't use Afterburner as usual...

And as you already use the 380w BIOS with shunt mod – there isn’t IMHO really a point in trying.

As I said – above a certain point there are really diminishing returns – somewhere beyond 420W or so…and you really need very very good cooling.
Using XOC BIOS only really makes sense for LN2-OC.

Best regards,
Medizinmann
 

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I had no intentions on water cooling my newest 2080Ti but damn is it a good overclocker. First let me say, I got lucky with samsung memory. Today was 40 degrees and decided to try the pc in my garage bench (with the garage door open to see how far I could push it. Pretty freaking far, this card is unmodified and is running a non-a chip. Got a graphics score of 16800 in timespy. That is with an offset of 475 on the core and 1000 on the mem.

Like I mentioned this was suppose to be a place holder for either a 6900XT or 3090 (or 3080Ti if released) but if it can hold those same clocks watercooled I might go that route.
 

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Ryzen 7 3800xt on MSI Meg Ace x570. RTX 2080 Ti K|NGP|N for when I'm feeling insecure and small.
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Finally made it here to the 2080 Ti group, have had a Gigabyte blower for the last 6 months or so and just grabbed a Kingpin 2080 Ti (and I've got a water-damaged card on the way now also to resurrect or convert to donor). Despite the noise from the blower, I recall being able to run ~2060-2145mhz core clock and +1400 memory on the Gigabyte card with 300w power limit Aorus blower BIOS at ambient temps (had to stick to blower BIOS bc every other non-XOC BIOS I found either had that FW mismatch issue in Nvflash or had a max fan speed that ran below what the turbo needed). Picked up an Alphacool hybrid kit to put the card in, and sure enough, flubbed something up during the install, resulting in an unresponsive card. No output signal and debug code d6 popped (no display device). Going to break out the multimeter again to see if I can figure anything out once the "donor" arrives, but I'm clueless with a probe.

In the short testing I did yesterday with the Kingpin (baselines done on reg BIOS, testing done on reg BIOS and XOC), I realized how much I miss that Gigabyte card. Didn't have too much voltage/frequency wiggle room on ambient, but I messed with core+memory clocks and the voltages within the Classified Tool to go past stock performance. I trust myself a bit more now than when I was doing ambient benching with the Gigabyte card, so it would be nice to be able to have a real side-by-side comparison.

I was making progress with the core and memory clocks with increasing voltage (and temp wasn't an issue, besides the pesky Vcore VRM + memory section of the card fiddling with 51deg C), but I didn't get to the +1400mhz memclock that I did easily on the turbo. Called it a night rather than trying to bench on an empty-brain, so I didn't try every option I had planned with memclock, but it was interesting to see how much a chip/card can vary between models.

Had some good fun getting a little feel for the Kingpin card and hoping to learn more here so I can at least make sure it can last long enough to see another generation of Nvidia cards.
 
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