Overclock.net banner

12101 - 12120 of 12577 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,232 Posts
I had a 750w Focus Plus Gold trip several times with just a single 2080 Ti on the XOC BIOS. It did handle the EVGA FTW3 Ultra BIOS (373w) but 1.125v with like 420-430w actual power draw was too much for it with a 9900K @ 5,1 and loads of fans + rgb lol. Upgraded to a 1000w Prime Gold (same cables and was cheap) and never had issues again even on XOC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
852 Posts
Yes, sort of. The boost algorithm tends to level off the curve from 1.043-1.050v and beyond once the card gets up to load temps/power. And it will always try to run the highest clocks possible at the lowest voltage possible based on the curve.

So on my card, with the 380w GALAX BIOS, a +180 offset will usually result in the curve calling for a clock speed of 2160mhz at every point on the curve from 1.043v through 1.093v. So naturally, the boost algorithm will set the card to run 2160mhz @ 1.043v, because why run 1.093v if the curve says it can run the same clock at 1.043v? Only problem is, 2160mhz @ 1.043v = insta crash.

The "work around" is to set a +165 offset, then open the curve editor and drag up the 1.093v point to +180. So now once you get the card up to load temps, the curve should be calling for 2145mhz from 1.043v through 1.087v. But the 1.093v point will still be 2160mhz since it's offset is still +180. So the card will sit at 1.093v since that voltage point corresponds to the highest clock according to the curve.



If your computer is literally shutting off, I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss your PSU. When I got my card, still on stock cooler, maxing out the 338w stock power limit would trip the overcurrent protection on my 1000w Seasonic based PSU. AC power draw was only ~500w, the same as with my old GTX 1070 SLI setup. But the 2080 Ti would shut off my computer. So I ended up with a 1600w PSU for my 600w rig. Good times.

These cards can have some crazy high transient current draws, and combined with your power monster of a CPU, it's very possible a 1.125v unlimited power BIOS is more than your PSU can handle.

I fixed the power shutdown issues. I was also running a XOC bios for my X299 dark, I updated that to a standard bios and I plugged in the supplemental "6 pin PCI-e cable near the PCI-e slots for extra power" no issues at all. I played Metro for about 2 hours straight pulling 450-500+ GPU power wattage.


Here is a timespy run.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
852 Posts
Yes, XOC works fine if you can live without profiles in MSI AB and having to do your OC every boot manually.

Also, DP/HDMI depending on your specific model of card may or may not work. My Gainward Phoenix GS doesn't work with all ports. Only HDMI and 2 DP's work. And it doesn't wanna show a UEFI BIOS screen over DP. Only HDMI so I have to run Legacy GOP in the BIOS for that to show on my main monitor.

I can run 2145Mhz on 1.125v perfectly stable on XOC. Power draw is about 400-420w and temps around 48-50c under AIO water. On a normal BIOS I am limited to 2085Mhz on 1.093v and some games like GTA V on 4K let it hit throtttling even with 373w EVGA FTW3 Ultra BIOS.
I finally resolved it. My X299 Dark has a XOC bios too, it performed fantastic but was quite old. I switched to 1.24 version, and the issues are totally gone running the 2,000 watt XOC 2080Ti bios now.. I played Metro for hours on end at 1.1V 2,145Mhz all the way through.
 
  • Rep+
Reactions: pewpewlazer

·
Registered
Joined
·
852 Posts
380w seems high. My KPE pulls 240-300w at load on stock 520w bios and +0 on voltage slider. I can make it pull over 400 watts by flipping both voltage dip switches on the back of the card, but this lowers the core speed due to increased temperature. Have you tried lowering the voltage?

How cool does your card run?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
852 Posts
...nope, I let them drink their stock allotment, below 'only' 375.7 W per card (Aorus stock bios XTR WB), but I have seen 379.9 W before. I just don't touch the voltage slider at all - may be I should try to undervolt after all...

...my biggest challenge has been to lower the total system power budget from 1150+ W to about 900 W with my current fav app: MS FS 2020 on SLI-CFR...PL down to 112 %, GPU oc down to 2100 MHz and VRAM down to about 2000 MHz (16,000 'effective) works fine w/o any appreciable loss in visuals / fps

View attachment 2467334

View attachment 2467343
I plan to get another 2080Ti. I really want to run NVlink with (2) of them. But, I will probably run the Galax XOC bios on both lol. My current card will peak around 45C with a steady power draw around 500 watts.

My system power consumption is pretty high due to my 7980XE being a straight guzzler! And now my 2080ti is the exact same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,232 Posts
AIO shouldn't be that bad? I mean, I can keep it under 50c on XOC 1.125v with a Kraken X52 push pull. It does require like 1600RPM fanspeed on all fours but yeah.

On 1.093v 373w it runs like 50-53c on 900RPM and 41-43c on 1500RPM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
852 Posts
AIO shouldn't be that bad? I mean, I can keep it under 50c on XOC 1.125v with a Kraken X52 push pull. It does require like 1600RPM fanspeed on all fours but yeah.

On 1.093v 373w it runs like 50-53c on 900RPM and 41-43c on 1500RPM.
That’s not too much worse than my full custom loop with (2) 360’s EKWB rads, and a EKWB Vector 2080Ti acetal block. I run pull only on both rads right now with XSPC 120MM 1,650RPM fans. I am cooling 7980XE at 4.8Ghz too though. I pieced this loop together for as cheap as possible on Amazon. I am very happy with the performance of it.

Also, I tried the +MHz offset method, and then setting a single Curve point at 15-30Mhz higher in MSI Afterburner and it works amazing. No reduced scores in synthetics like only running a curve provides, or a SHIFT+L frequency does.

My daily setup is 17,400 in timespy graphics.







 
  • Rep+
Reactions: pewpewlazer

·
Registered
Joined
·
852 Posts
This is my overclocked and watercooled RTX2080Ti running against a RTX3080. I set the settings identical per the review settings.

This really shows what you can obtain from a 2080Ti! It is amazing. This reflects a 37% uplift over a stock RTX2080Ti



free pic hosting
 

·
Facepalm
Joined
·
9,154 Posts
This is my overclocked and watercooled RTX2080Ti running against a RTX3080. I set the settings identical per the review settings.

This really shows what you can obtain from a 2080Ti! It is amazing. This reflects a 37% uplift over a stock RTX2080Ti



free pic hosting
I really have no idea why so many people panic sold their 2080 Ti's when the 3080 was announced. Shunt modded and overclocked, it loses literally loses no ground and if you watercool it, remains a top performer with more framebuffer memory, just with slightly worse raytracing. It just seems easier to put the 2080 Ti into safemode from a bad shunt mod than it is to put the 3080 in safe mode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
852 Posts
I really have no idea why so many people panic sold their 2080 Ti's when the 3080 was announced. Shunt modded and overclocked, it loses literally loses no ground and if you watercool it, remains a top performer with more framebuffer memory, just with slightly worse raytracing. It just seems easier to put the 2080 Ti into safemode from a bad shunt mod than it is to put the 3080 in safe mode.
Seriously. I’m shocked how well the 2080Ti does, and they support Nvlink. Also, the ray tracing performance is practically the same also. “with my 2080Ti anyways” Once you get that 2080Ti up and over 2.1Ghz sustained, it practically performs identical to a RTX3080 FE “Air cooled”

Ive soldered and desoldered shunts on more than a few 2080Ti’s. Ive never put one in safe mode though.
 
  • Rep+
Reactions: Falkentyne

·
Registered
Joined
·
852 Posts

·
Invalid Media
Joined
·
2,674 Posts
I really have no idea why so many people panic sold their 2080 Ti's when the 3080 was announced. Shunt modded and overclocked, it loses literally loses no ground and if you watercool it, remains a top performer with more framebuffer memory, just with slightly worse raytracing. It just seems easier to put the 2080 Ti into safemode from a bad shunt mod than it is to put the 3080 in safe mode.
Yeah, panic selling is never a good idea; and now there are folks who don't have a decent top-end card as they cannot get a RTX3K (spoiler etc) after they dumped their 2080 Ti. I got my two 2080 Tis about two years ago (380W stock bios, factory full w-block) and they perform as strong as ever...the slower of the two at around 2160. It makes no sense to me to upgrade to a 3080.

I might take a look at 3090s / 7nm TSMC (if that rumour comes true) though early in the new year, ditto for a AMD 6900 XT which seems impressive via what is limited info so far (though wondering about VRAM bandwidth at 4K with that one, and perhaps ray tracing, given 6800 XT results with the same VRAM config).

Anyway, decent and well-cooled 2080 Tis leave little to be desired at this stage, imo

2467746
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Yeah, panic selling is never a good idea; and now there are folks who don't have a decent top-end card as they cannot get a RTX3K (spoiler etc) after they dumped their 2080 Ti. I got my two 2080 Tis about two years ago (380W stock bios, factory full w-block) and they perform as strong as ever...the slower of the two at around 2160. It makes no sense to me to upgrade to a 3080.

I might take a look at 3090s / 7nm TSMC (if that rumour comes true) though early in the new year, ditto for a AMD 6900 XT which seems impressive via what is limited info so far (though wondering about VRAM bandwidth at 4K with that one, and perhaps ray tracing, given 6800 XT results with the same VRAM config).

Anyway, decent and well-cooled 2080 Tis leave little to be desired at this stage, imo

Yeah I own a 3080 along with my 2080 Ti and with both OC'd on air the 3080 is maybe 10% faster at rasterization and 20% at raytracing. I did order some shunts however for it but I'm working on a hot glue method to avoid voiding the warranty on the 3080 :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
2467747


Here's my timespy on air


What is a solid BIOS to run on an EVGA XC3 that isn't XOC? Judging by my KillAWatt I think I'm pulling 400W @ 1.05v but I've heard some of you say the KFA2 BIOS is no good, etc. Also, I'm on a more modern version of the BIOS, so it gets complicated finding a viable BIOS which is why I stuck the Strix XOC on here.
 

·
Invalid Media
Joined
·
2,674 Posts
Yeah I own a 3080 along with my 2080 Ti and with both OC'd on air the 3080 is maybe 10% faster at rasterization and 20% at raytracing. I did order some shunts however for it but I'm working on a hot glue method to avoid voiding the warranty on the 3080 :p
I've hard-modded GPUs before, but shunt modding a (then still air-cooled?) 3080 would make me a tad nervous :oops: The thing I like about the dual 2080 Ti is that they can do 'NVL-SLI-CFR' with the right driver, unlike RTX3K. I use CFR for 4K / ultra @ MS FS 2020 and some other apps.

May be I can convince our accounting to get one of these instead...then shunt mod the 4x A100s after w-cooling them :D

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
852 Posts
View attachment 2467747

Here's my timespy on air


What is a solid BIOS to run on an EVGA XC3 that isn't XOC? Judging by my KillAWatt I think I'm pulling 400W @ 1.05v but I've heard some of you say the KFA2 BIOS is no good, etc. Also, I'm on a more modern version of the BIOS, so it gets complicated finding a viable BIOS which is why I stuck the Strix XOC on here.
I use the Galax HOF XOC 2KWatt bios. But, the Galax 380 watt is your best bet, I straight solder shunts stacked and it can pull up to like 545 watts or something like that. , it can do 1.093V too, unlike the Strix XOC. based on that 16,600 graphics score it looks like it’s out of power, mostly due to being air cooled and inefficient. Either way, I’d water cool them things man. Then you can actually get that performance in games. on Air it just isn’t sustained performance.

I have gone past 17K timespy graphics on air cooling.


Here’s water though.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
The "work around" is to set a +165 offset, then open the curve editor and drag up the 1.093v point to +180. So now once you get the card up to load temps, the curve should be calling for 2145mhz from 1.043v through 1.087v. But the 1.093v point will still be 2160mhz since it's offset is still +180. So the card will sit at 1.093v since that voltage point corresponds to the highest clock according to the curve.
But with those GALAX 380w BIOS, [email protected] would slam the power limit frequently if enough load is put on the gpu, especially using RT cores, so how would you sustain that desired offset? Plus temps? Does your GPU never go above 39c?
 
12101 - 12120 of 12577 Posts
Top