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Is it normal for GPU hotspot temps to be as much as 15c higher then actual core temps? I kinda question my mount a bit seeing that much deviation.. I use a EVGA Hybrid FTW3 waterblock on my card (not a EVGA card) and core sits around 50-51c and hotspot around 62-66c at +105 core (around 2055-2070Mhz).
I see around 11C on my Bykski full waterblock. 44C on GPU Temp and 55C on hot spot.
 

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So, basically, my temps are perfectly reasonable lol. After a evening of gaming at +105 core +1250 VRAM on black ops cold war RT / DXR enabled, Cyberpunk RT Psycho, Division 2 and maybe some Battlefield 5l DXR Ultra) the max temps I saw in HWINFO64 were 54.1c core 68.9c hotspot 76c VRAM. That seems in line enough to me to not warrant a full remount again. Also, of course the AIO isn't going to get as good of a temperature as a full cover will especially with my really bad low pressure fans (only selected on looks) but the card cannot put out any more heat because it's just riding the 345-350w limit the whole time anyway.
 

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Is it normal for GPU hotspot temps to be as much as 15c higher then actual core temps? I kinda question my mount a bit seeing that much deviation.. I use a EVGA Hybrid FTW3 waterblock on my card (not a EVGA card) and core sits around 50-51c and hotspot around 62-66c at +105 core (around 2055-2070Mhz).
I get about 10C-11.7C on my 3090 FE after my last repaste and switching from Odyssey 1.5mm pads to the softer Gelid extreme 1.5mm pads, stock cooler.

(Exactly 10C on the spot in Fortnite uncapped FPS @ 530W, DX12+No RT (tested in main menu at 403 FPS), Heaven (550W) is anywhere between 10.2C-10.9C, Overwatch @ 4k @ capped 400W TDP 10.7C-11.7C.

I think 15C is a bit on the high side, especially with water at such a low temp. May be low pressure on the core (too thick or not squishy enough thermal pads?)
 

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Is anyone heaving driver crash with 466.27 ?
 

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I get about 10C-11.7C on my 3090 FE after my last repaste and switching from Odyssey 1.5mm pads to the softer Gelid extreme 1.5mm pads, stock cooler.

(Exactly 10C on the spot in Fortnite uncapped FPS @ 530W, DX12+No RT (tested in main menu at 403 FPS), Heaven (550W) is anywhere between 10.2C-10.9C, Overwatch @ 4k @ capped 400W TDP 10.7C-11.7C.

I think 15C is a bit on the high side, especially with water at such a low temp. May be low pressure on the core (too thick or not squishy enough thermal pads?)
Might be. It's the stock pads from the EVGA VRAM plate so. The plate does contact the block so it can prevent it from mounting properly pressure wise I guess.
 

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Hey everyone.
I'm in a bit of a deliberation period.
I got a hold of a Barrow CPU Pump Waterblock combo for AM4 processors and I want to throw a custom loop into my CoolerMaster NR200 with 2x 240mm thin radiators. Unfortunately, my 3080 (Gigabyte Gaming OC) is one of those "not as popular" versions that only has Barrow/Bykski waterblocks. Alphacool recently released a block for it, so now there are three choices, but my main issue is:
The Gigabyte has this strange mini connector to 8 pin. They include an adapter and most of the previous water-blocks either repurpose the included back-plate so you can use the same connector mounted, or they have their own way of mounting the connector. I'm just not a fan of it, aesthetically.
Also, the truth is, I just really prefer the Founder's Edition or Strix or even EVGA because those versions have access to blocks like the Corsair GPU block or EK types.

But given how difficult it is to get a hold of a 3080 to begin with, do I just bite the bullet and be happy with what I have and get the Barrow block for it? (Not a big fan of the Bykski block)
 

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Hey everyone.
I'm in a bit of a deliberation period.
I got a hold of a Barrow CPU Pump Waterblock combo for AM4 processors and I want to throw a custom loop into my CoolerMaster NR200 with 2x 240mm thin radiators. Unfortunately, my 3080 (Gigabyte Gaming OC) is one of those "not as popular" versions that only has Barrow/Bykski waterblocks. Alphacool recently released a block for it, so now there are three choices, but my main issue is:
The Gigabyte has this strange mini connector to 8 pin. They include an adapter and most of the previous water-blocks either repurpose the included back-plate so you can use the same connector mounted, or they have their own way of mounting the connector. I'm just not a fan of it, aesthetically.
Also, the truth is, I just really prefer the Founder's Edition or Strix or even EVGA because those versions have access to blocks like the Corsair GPU block or EK types.

But given how difficult it is to get a hold of a 3080 to begin with, do I just bite the bullet and be happy with what I have and get the Barrow block for it? (Not a big fan of the Bykski block)
Ok, so.., I have Evga XC3, which is total garbage. And who knows, maybe my card is defective, because max power consumption is 320W, and 8pin #1 is always about 30W lower than 8pin #2. Stock air cooler was garbage too, loud, not very effective. Memory OC low too (+800mem max on air). I decided to queue for Evga step-up (for 3080 FTW3). After few months I bought waterblock. Spend 220€ for it, even if I will have to sell it after step-up and lose like 100€. But who knows when it will be.

I'd say if you don't want to sit for week or two 24/7 at alert bot, just keep your Gigabyte.

Or there can be another option. Soon 3080Ti will be released. You can try luck selling your card, and trying to get 2nd hand rtx3080 (but I doubt it will be easy, I guess most will keep original 3080 for mining, or will sell for high...).
 

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Anybody getting probably "false" temperature limits ?
Sometimes shown only in afterburner, sometimes in hwinfo, sometimes in both.
However every time I check the max temperatures are not so high to expect temperature limit.
2489414
 

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Anybody getting probably "false" temperature limits ?
Sometimes shown only in afterburner, sometimes in hwinfo, sometimes in both.
However every time I check the max temperatures are not so high to expect temperature limit.
View attachment 2489414
Known bug that started happening ever since the first 457.xx drivers dropped.
456.98 (hotfix) was the last driver without such problems. This seems to be caused randomly by a change in power states at low load or during interruptions at high load.
 

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Thanks Falkentyne.
I was worrying that I have hardware issue or bad oc.
 

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Hello, trying to build new PC with RTX 3080 Founder's Edition and saw that it is possible to have issues with some PSU (power supply unit) when it turn off when using with RTX 3080.

Please write the exact model of PSU you are using with RTX 3080 without any problems/issues. It will help me a lot. Thanks to all who will decide to answer.
 

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Is it normal for GPU hotspot temps to be as much as 15c higher then actual core temps? I kinda question my mount a bit seeing that much deviation.. I use a EVGA Hybrid FTW3 waterblock on my card (not a EVGA card) and core sits around 50-51c and hotspot around 62-66c at +105 core (around 2055-2070Mhz).
Based on the 3090 thread its normal to see between 8-11c, 15c seems a little to high. Stock paste?
 

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First I bought Heatkiller V without backplate, because on website was written that it's compatible with original backplate. Anyway 3080 XC3 have nothing to cool on it's back of pcb. Later, after I received water block, realised that original backplate is NOT compatible. Few months later, decided to order XC3 backplate.

Idk if it's just my card, but Heatkiller V XC3 comes with 0.5mm pads for memory chips, and with it I had 100C memory just 10s after started mining, gpu chip max like 45C, hotspot +11-14C, can't remember. All temps were max measured by Gpu-Z.
Now with backplate, tried same 0.5mm pads, still very high memory temps. Now I have 0.5mm on top/bottom chips, and 1mm on sides. A big higher chip temp (max saw 47C), hotspot 60C, memory while gaming up to 58C. Memory while mining up to 68C.

All this with pump at 2150rpm. If I max out pump, chip temps goes to 42C under max load, memory very little different.

TL;DR: Waterblock manual says to use 0.5mm on memory chips, I used 1mm on some, and 0.5mm on others, gained few C on chip, but memory over 30C cooler.
 

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hi guys, I'm new to the forum.
I have a ZOTAC RTX 3080 Trinity OC, I would like to replace its bios to increase the power limited, now it is around 330w (105%).
which bios do you recommend for my card?
thank you
 

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Hi guys,

Getting high vram temps reaching 102 degrees C according to GPU-Z while placing gpu under 100% load. This kind of worries me. The GPU model is an MSI 3080 Ventus OC. What temps are you guys getting and is this normal?

Thanks

After some research it seems for some cards this is normal. I also read that EVGA FTW3 3080 cards get the lowest temps in the high 80s vs 100s for me with this MSI.
 

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Hi guys,

Getting high vram temps reaching 102 degrees C according to GPU-Z while placing gpu under 100% load. This kind of worries me. The GPU model is an MSI 3080 Ventus OC. What temps are you guys getting and is this normal?

Thanks

After some research it seems for some cards this is normal. I also read that EVGA FTW3 3080 cards get the lowest temps in the high 80s vs 100s for me with this MSI.
Memory temp goes up to 88C on my TUF OC.
 

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I am so massively frustrated right now. Like, what do I have to do to get proper temps on a 3080...

I run a full EVGA FTW3 Hybrid block on mine and while VRAM temperatures are great, 72-74c the whole time, the core is still terrible.. after 3 remounts it hasn't changed 1 degree.. I even put over 100 euro's worth of super high performance static pressure fans (Alpenfohn Wing Boost 3 2200RPM) on the rad in push pull and (at 1350RPM) the core sits at 55-58c and hotspot 70-72c like.. first I'm still quite shocked with how far hotspot is off of edge / core temp and it still sounds super high for running a proper 240 AIO designed specifically for a 3080..

Do I really have to remount again with different paste or whatever? Like, every time I pull it apart the spread was perfect and it's not like I'm using a bad paste, Prolimatech PK-3 is a top 10 paste and I've used it for years with great success.

I do have NT-H1, the new MX5 and Kryonaut laying around so maybe I should remount again.. or maybe I need to use liquid metal? I have both Conductonaut and Liquid Ultra here so..
 

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I just did the Timespy Extreme stress test and pushing 430w though my Trio X resulted in the following max temps, core 80C, memory 100C, and hot spot 93C. It's operating properly so no worries here.
 

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I am so massively frustrated right now. Like, what do I have to do to get proper temps on a 3080...

I run a full EVGA FTW3 Hybrid block on mine and while VRAM temperatures are great, 72-74c the whole time, the core is still terrible.. after 3 remounts it hasn't changed 1 degree.. I even put over 100 euro's worth of super high performance static pressure fans (Alpenfohn Wing Boost 3 2200RPM) on the rad in push pull and (at 1350RPM) the core sits at 55-58c and hotspot 70-72c like.. first I'm still quite shocked with how far hotspot is off of edge / core temp and it still sounds super high for running a proper 240 AIO designed specifically for a 3080..

Do I really have to remount again with different paste or whatever? Like, every time I pull it apart the spread was perfect and it's not like I'm using a bad paste, Prolimatech PK-3 is a top 10 paste and I've used it for years with great success.

I do have NT-H1, the new MX5 and Kryonaut laying around so maybe I should remount again.. or maybe I need to use liquid metal? I have both Conductonaut and Liquid Ultra here so..
First, I think you've been worrying far too much about hotspot temps. 55-58c is great for a 240mm rad. I don't know why you are expecting miracles from a kit that isn't meant to give top notch cooling performance; it's meant to operate silently while being slightly better than the stock cooler, and that's exactly what it does.

I top at 60-63c on my FTW3 Ultra with 3 A12x25s @ 1100rpm (once temps on the VRM hit 48c). I find that heavy raster games tend to beat the card up more than anything else. Besides Metro Exodus, I slap my 450watt power limit constantly while playing Hell Let Loose.

I hit 63c, and the card is still at 2025. The performance difference is so negligible it's not worth going custom loop and dropping $1500 in hardware. I let the Hybrid GPU fan kick up a tad to move some of the heat around the memory and power stages, maybe the fan will get to 50% max when the card is at 63c. It's still nearly dead silent.

You're expecting far too much from the Hybrid kit, and your worrying about temps that are fine. 55-58c is solid. Getting the card down to 45c might net you another ~30Mhz, but at the end of the day it won't be visible in real-world use. I get wanting to get the best out of your hardware, but you've invested a ton of money trying to make a Hybrid kit cool the card like a full-cover block, and it's simply not built for that.

Btw, I'm using the stock paste that was on the hybrid cooler when it came out of the box. I was going to put some KingpinX on it, but forgot to bring it with me when I picked the cooler up. Do I think about pulling the card apart and swapping the paste? Sometimes, and maybe when I'm bored, but I wouldn't do it expecting some massive performance increase; I'd do it for the fact that I'm a psycho and like having the best paste on my hardware.

Either way man.. if you really want to get low temps, custom loop with a full-cover block is the only way to achieve that. All this stuff your doing with the hybrid cooler is trying to put lipstick on a pig. The hybrid kit is good for what it is (silence, slightly better than stock cooler performance) but it's never going to be a super effective cooler with that thin ass radiator and the high heat generated by these cards.
 
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