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I had the thing on the bench for about 2 hours trying to figure how to get it better...but without stacking stand offs and running cables behind the motherboard there was no way to get room back there... and since the I/O panel would miss the location doing that I couldn't move the board out... basically I had a very poor case choice for a complex build like mine... but I never intended it to get this complex when I bought the case in 2012... for 30$... it actually looked reasonably neat back then... sigh... oh well.. there is a couple cables I could manage a little better in it... like the last two hdd cables I put in... but I had given up already by that point... its my frankenbuild now anyway with that huge rad sitting on top and wires/tubes coming out it's side... at least it's quiet and cool
Yep. That's how it happens to you. If you keep your eyes open there are some really good deals on modern mid-tower cases with tg.

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I just finished installing "FuzeDriver Basic" on my Ryzen Rig. Used my 256gb samsung 850 pro ssd and a 1tb hdd.

Spent hours messing with it. Had it give me a ton of issues at first and I installed windows 4 times tonight. Time before last was a real killer. I figured out the issue (I think, the problem may of been random). I installed windows and realized windows installed my system files on the ssd instead of the hdd I was using as a boot drive. The ssd has to be blank... That was about 2am. Did the process over again and now it's working and I'm installing all my games.

So far it's ok though being a person used to having at least the os and programs installed on an ssd I can tell there's some funny business going on. Though it's still too early to judge. I'm getting all my games installed tonight. Will play with it more after work tomorrow.

I need to crash out and get my 3 hours of sleep. :(
 

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Tactical Moron
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Discussion Starter · #382 ·
This is the earliest photo I could find of it... this was taken just after I added some usb ports on the back and thats those two cables that look so horrible right next to the fan... I did route them better later, I just took the picture to show how they "glowed" in the blue light... I hadn't actually zip tied anything at this point yet and it looked better than it does now : ( oh well... and I noticed the date on the jpg file... turns out I built in this case first in 2011... soooo dated
 

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Tactical Moron
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Discussion Starter · #383 ·
Yep. That's how it happens to you. If you keep your eyes open there are some really good deals on modern mid-tower cases with tg.

---------------

I just finished installing "FuzeDriver Basic" on my Ryzen Rig. Used my 256gb samsung 850 pro ssd and a 1tb hdd.

Spent hours messing with it. Had it give me a ton of issues at first and I installed windows 4 times tonight. Time before last was a real killer. I figured out the issue (I think, the problem may of been random). I installed windows and realized windows installed my system files on the ssd instead of the hdd I was using as a boot drive. The ssd has to be blank... That was about 2am. Did the process over again and now it's working and I'm installing all my games.

So far it's ok though being a person used to having at least the os and programs installed on an ssd I can tell there's some funny business going on. Though it's still too early to judge. I'm getting all my games installed tonight. Will play with it more after work tomorrow.

I need to crash out and get my 3 hours of sleep. :(
good luck, I know things like that can be a pain... I didn't bother with fuzedrive, I lazied my way out just setting default storage locations... only have 16TB of hdd space to browse through, how hard can it be *says the guy still looking for where he put the last vacay pics*
 

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Yeah that looks a lot better.

It's amusing how systems "evolve" over time. I usually upgrade until my computer looks like crap and then cut back. Haven't really done much to my main rig lately but I've had it with wires, cables, and rads all over it.

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I might end up reinstalling everything tonight. I'm not happy with the sounds the hdd I used is making. The drive is fat WD Black. I'm not sure what's up with it but it always underscored in benchmarks. It's making an unhealthy squeaking sound that I don't want coming from the system.

I've got a 1tb Seagate barracuda in my fx system. Think I'll swap the drives out and see how it goes.
 

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Hi everyone, complete newb here

I'm getting a gigabyte x470 aorus gaming 7 with 2700 next week, planning on overclocking it on the stock cooler to 2700x level... so 3.7ghz

Is this possible on the stock cooler? Will it be stable like that? What setting will I need to change beside the multiplier ?
 

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Tactical Moron
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Discussion Starter · #386 ·
Hi everyone, complete newb here

I'm getting a gigabyte x470 aorus gaming 7 with 2700 next week, planning on overclocking it on the stock cooler to 2700x level... so 3.7ghz

Is this possible on the stock cooler? Will it be stable like that? What setting will I need to change beside the multiplier ?
on a 2700x it'll overclock itself to 4ghz nearly if not just past via precision boost 2.0 and on lighter loads it'll hit in the 4.2 range with 4.3-4.35 happening under very light loads... manual OC's on stock cooler depend on a few factors... case ventilation, ambient temp, silicon quality and board quality... but most I've seen hitting between 4.0 to 4.2 for daily use... (4.2 is kinda rare though on stock coolers) Just try to keep temps under 80C and volts under 1.45.... although there is no definitive evidence that hotter will hurt, but generally cooler is better... as for volts the chips are pretty hardy and self volt to 1.55 for short times, but for daily use i was told that 1.45 was reasonable and for leaving on 24/7 1.4 max... again lower is better though. hope this helps
 

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on a 2700x it'll overclock itself to 4ghz nearly if not just past via precision boost 2.0 and on lighter loads it'll hit in the 4.2 range with 4.3-4.35 happening under very light loads... manual OC's on stock cooler depend on a few factors... case ventilation, ambient temp, silicon quality and board quality... but most I've seen hitting between 4.0 to 4.2 for daily use... (4.2 is kinda rare though on stock coolers) Just try to keep temps under 80C and volts under 1.45.... although there is no definitive evidence that hotter will hurt, but generally cooler is better... as for volts the chips are pretty hardy and self volt to 1.55 for short times, but for daily use i was told that 1.45 was reasonable and for leaving on 24/7 1.4 max... again lower is better though. hope this helps
Yeah thanks! I have no illusions about the stock cooler thats why I tried to aim at a more conservative oc (since I see almost everyone aim for 4.0ghz+ range). I'd be pretty happy if I can hit 3.7 on stock and leave it like that until I can get my hands on a better cooler. I picked a case with two fans (front bottom + back top) and will only have a 1050 running alongside it so not much heat coming from that...

Where does stock Vcore voltage start on the 2700 ? I want to absolutely run it 24/7, often times I dont shut my pc down for weeks.
 

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Yeah thanks! I have no illusions about the stock cooler thats why I tried to aim at a more conservative oc (since I see almost everyone aim for 4.0ghz+ range). I'd be pretty happy if I can hit 3.7 on stock and leave it like that until I can get my hands on a better cooler. I picked a case with two fans (front bottom + back top) and will only have a 1050 running alongside it so not much heat coming from that...

Where does stock Vcore voltage start on the 2700 ? I want to absolutely run it 24/7, often times I dont shut my pc down for weeks.
I was able to pull 3.9 @ 1.3v on my 2700 on the stock cooler with a B350m mobo. The cpu got really hot stress testing (>100c max) but under normal use it would be much lower.


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Ok guys. This FuzeDrive really isn't so bad. Now that my computer has had a few restarts it's feeling much more responsive compared to just using the hdd. I'm still not 100% sold on it though. In my personal experience with ssd's, the biggest benefit comes from installing the OS/Programs on the ssd. Games, while nice to have on an ssd seem to be very hit and miss as to how much they benefit. It seems like the games you'd assume would benefit the most from ssd's don't or the affect is so minimal that it's basically placebo.

My point here is the system is likely better off with the os/programs installed on an ssd and just installing games on an hdd. One thing that is nice is not having to manage where things go. All of my computers have at least a ssd and hdd. I'm constantly having to manage where things are installed. With FuzeDrive installed on this Ryzen rig I can just install games and let the system figure things out.

I'd personally suggest that if you own a 4xx mobo that comes with the 256gb version of FuzeDrive (rebranded StoreMI) and have a 256gb ssd or smaller with a larger hdd that you should test it out to see how you like it. Just make sure to back up any data you aren't willing to lose. If you are hit with a blue screen boot and the system won't recognize your boot drive install windows on the other drive and use that install of windows to undo the FuzeDrive settings in the fresh install of windows. :)

*If installing windows fresh, use the hdd for the os drive. Unplug your ssd while installing windows so windows doesn't try to install the boot partition on the ssd. Make sure the ssd is fully blank and not partitioned (Delete any volumes on the drive).
 

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on a 2700x it'll overclock itself to 4ghz nearly if not just past via precision boost 2.0 and on lighter loads it'll hit in the 4.2 range with 4.3-4.35 happening under very light loads... manual OC's on stock cooler depend on a few factors... case ventilation, ambient temp, silicon quality and board quality... but most I've seen hitting between 4.0 to 4.2 for daily use... (4.2 is kinda rare though on stock coolers) Just try to keep temps under 80C and volts under 1.45.... although there is no definitive evidence that hotter will hurt, but generally cooler is better... as for volts the chips are pretty hardy and self volt to 1.55 for short times, but for daily use i was told that 1.45 was reasonable and for leaving on 24/7 1.4 max... again lower is better though. hope this helps

Maybe I'm a little causious but I try to keep my voltages as low as possible. I have a 2700X which I'm running at 4.258ghz at 1.3v for daily use.
 

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Tactical Moron
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Discussion Starter · #390 ·
Maybe I'm a little causious but I try to keep my voltages as low as possible. I have a 2700X which I'm running at 4.258ghz at 1.3v for daily use.
My chip at default would hold 1.4+ volts under load until loads neared 80% then it'd drop down a bit so I kinda figured they were made to take that voltage for pretty long durations... but I don't even manually overclock on mine... I just use the precision boost overdrive... I did do some testing though and found my chip is mediocrity at its finest... takes nearly 1.4v to hold 4.2 stable, ... sure it'll boot at much less and run fine, but its not stable...
 

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Anyone think there would be any benefit going from a Crosshair VI to a Crosshair VII? (2700X)
Doubtful outside of support for next gen Ryzen cpu's and free access to StoreMi.
 

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Meddling user
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Anyone think there would be any benefit going from a Crosshair VI to a Crosshair VII? (2700X)
Don't waste your money IMO.

The C6H gains same changes as C7H in UEFI as far as I can tell. So it's not gimped or being left behind IMO.

For example the settings within AMD CBS became part of settings txt dump on C6H just as C7H gained it. The "Stealth mode" (ie no RGB/Q-Code display) was not part of C6H UEFI originally, near the time of C7H release it did happen for C6H as well. ASUS Performance Enhancer (aka Precision Boost Override) is no different between the 2 boards in my experience.

The C6H has ASUS T-Topology, where as C7H is daisy chain for RAM traces. I've attained higher RAM MHz posts on 4 dimms on C6H than C7H. So far the C6H seems also easier to stabilise 3333MHz on 4 dimms than C7H.

Only reason have the C7H is as it was given FOC. C7H is improved vs C6H only some aspects, but not enough/valued by me, to warrant purchase of it if you have C6H already IMO.
 

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Don't waste your money IMO.

The C6H gains same changes as C7H in UEFI as far as I can tell. So it's not gimped or being left behind IMO.

For example the settings within AMD CBS became part of settings txt dump on C6H just as C7H gained it. The "Stealth mode" (ie no RGB/Q-Code display) was not part of C6H UEFI originally, near the time of C7H release it did happen for C6H as well. ASUS Performance Enhancer (aka Precision Boost Override) is no different between the 2 boards in my experience.

The C6H has ASUS T-Topology, where as C7H is daisy chain for RAM traces. I've attained higher RAM MHz posts on 4 dimms on C6H than C7H. So far the C6H seems also easier to stabilise 3333MHz on 4 dimms than C7H.

Only reason have the C7H is as it was given FOC. C7H is improved vs C6H only some aspects, but not enough/valued by me, to warrant purchase of it if you have C6H already IMO.
Thanks. I dont really need it, PC is running great anyway, just could potentially get one nearly new/second hand and #becausenewstuff. :)
 

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Pretty good voltage, takes me 1.381 @ 4.2 to get IBT AVX very high stable!
I found that I need about 1.281v set in bios to have 4.2ghz stable running 50 iterations of IBT standard. I only set my memory to 3200mhz with Stilt's safe timings preset to make sure it is not memory that fails.
 

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Thanks. It came out pretty good. I should of picked up a high quality hole saw before doing it. Though, hole saws can get expensive. A Lenox 4 1/2" bi-metal hole saw is $40 at lowe's (The case was $40). The jigsaw did alright with a metal cutting blade on it.

Yeah it's a little hard to get a picture of the rig with the tinted TG side panel. Looks really good though. It's cramped. That 212 black top and RM850 psu really fills the case up.


Seeing your Air 540 makes me miss mine even more. That thing will keep a system cool. :)


*I took some pictures of the case with a HD7950 I'm benchmarking in it. Now that sob is really cramped!
BTW, Why don't you add another fan in the frt? Bet it will drop your temp 5 or more. My 7950 died and i miss it. Replaced it with a GTX 1050.
 

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BTW, Why don't you add another fan in the frt? Bet it will drop your temp 5 or more. My 7950 died and i miss it. Replaced it with a GTX 1050.
My mobo only has 2 fan headers. When I installed them I couldn't find my pwm splitters so I installed one as a front and one as a rear. I didn't want to split two different fans off one mobo header. I also want to keep the fans consistent in general.

Splitter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XKKQ/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

Fans
https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-NF-F12-iPPC-2000-PWM/dp/B00KFCR5BA

With the mod, and 212 evo installed the system temps are good. I'm voltage limited through the mobo on the cpu, not temps. Though I'll likely add a 3rd fan in there. Sooner or later.


The Hd 7950 did a lot better in my tests then I expected.
 

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Tactical Moron
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Discussion Starter · #400 ·
I finally broke down and joined the rgb craze.... yeah... I finally went and done it... honestly though I didn't plan it... just saw this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071JDCG2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and needed a new keyboard...my old g510 was getting a bit long in the tooth and was in need of replacement... and I had been wanting to get a mech keyboard anyway... the old style typewriter buttons just won me over... at least I don't have to use the rgb part if I don't want to, but honestly its awesome looking so I'll probably use the rgb... something about that old retro look merged with new sold me on it... that and I had a half off coupon with amazon.
 
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