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NEW MEMBERS:
PLEASE READ THE FAQ!!

Many of your questions can be answered here, rather than being asked about again and again in the thread only to be referred back to here, the Original Post (OP).

10/27/14: Updated info on OCing True10 monitors. Added info on how to OC monitor on Mac OSx
10/19/14: Added design request on OP, also added first-time buyers tips. Added new header graphic!
8/19/14: Added info on Nvidia 780ti overclock patching. Thanks BGKris for letting me know.
7/14/14: General updating
7/12/14: Added info about the 10-bit panel models to FAQ.
5/21/14: Dusting off cobwebs. Updated Nvidia OC instructions. Added "color sustainer" to color profiles.
- - - - Added warning that multi-input monitors dont game well.
2/8/2014: Added some ICC profiles
12/26/13: Updated manufacturer websites. Updated FAQ.
9/12/13: Added data sheet for internal Samsung screen in "Relevant discussion and information links"
9/9/13: OP back to normal and added to vesa stand section
8/26/13: Updated verifying monitor OCs. Updated Tape Mod section.
8/19/13: Updated monitor OC procedure.
7/28/13: Added to FAQ.
7/22/13: Added Tek-Syndicate review.
7/12/13: Added a (futile) attempt to get new members to actually read the OP.
7/3/13: Added info to the "Tape Mod" section. Updated FAQ and OP layout.
6/28/13: Added vesa mounting de-bezeled monitor section
6/25/13: Finished verifying all members. All legit!
6/6/13: Added members list photo verification
5/28/13: Added "Official" status, mod De-Zant approved.
5/31/13: Added to reviews section. Added members list analysis section.
5/26-27/13: Added to FAQ section
5/15/13: Added to 'Reviews' section
5/8/13: Added color calibration profiles for monitors with same PLS screen (Asus, Samsung, and Viewsonic).
5/4/13: Added change log. Added Tape Mod in help section. Added some FAQ points.
5/3/13: Added additional color calibration profiles.
4/27/13: Added FAQ section.
4/22/2013: Club founded, thread started. Compiled information into OP.

Monitor Information

ALL Multi-input / True10 models WON'T OVERCLOCK
Added on 10-27-14: Some have reported that the newer True10 monitors can OC to roughly 85 Hz. YMMV

PLEASE check out this post [CLICK] for some solid suggestions on what to look out for and avoid if buying a PLS monitor. This dedicated PLS Club Member tries to do periodic updates as to what is good, what is bad.
Q: Why Korean PLS monitors? What is different about them?
A: Here is some back story: IPS Korean monitors have been around for awhile now, but with increasing popularity their prices have risen. Overclocking variants cost even more.
Out of this comes new Korean variants using the Samsung PLS screen, specifically the Qnix and the X-star, which offer the same (if not better) image quality of the popular IPS and have a very good chance of overclocking to 120 Hz.

Q: Is it worth it to buy a pixel perfect monitor?
A: No. All evidence as of now suggests that probability of receiving a monitor with no or little dead pixels is random, even if purchasing a 'pixel perfect' monitor. It seems that it is a marketing ploy for them to get more money.

Q: Does the single-input version of these monitors overclock?
A: Yes. To see the various overclocks (OCs) reported, look to the expandable section below titled "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis" and look for the pie graph of reported OCs.

Q: Does the multi-input model of these monitors overclock?
A: No. Even connecting the multi-input monitor via dual-link DVI will not result in it being able to overclock.

Q: Is the multi-input model of these monitors good for gaming?
A: No. They have "two frames of input lag" and thus are very bad for gaming.

Q: Does the TRUE10 model (10-bit panel) overclock? How is the input-lag?
A: No it does not overclock (regardless of what they try and tell you, for the time being). Added on 10-27-14: Some have reported that the newer True10 monitors can OC to roughly 85 Hz. YMMV
Input lag is worse than on the 8-bit panel version. DO NOT get this if you are trying to game. These are graphic design specific panels, and you probably need a 10-bit specific graphics card to even make use of the 10-bit color depth.

Q: If you can overclock in the computer to 120 Hz, does the monitor truly run at 120 Hz?
A: Yes. Proof: http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel/530#post_19788281

Q: Can I buy a monitor that will OC to 120 Hz, guaranteed?
A: No, not as far as I know. There are theories that monitors sold by certain sellers have a better chance to OC higher, but it is considered to be random.

Q: Does the DVI cable used have an effect on OC ability?
A: Some have reported better and worse OCs from using a different cable than that included. Some have also reported varrying OCs with switching their GPU. YMMV

Q: Do any issues come from overclocking, i.e. does it affect reliability?
A: Unknown at this time. However, other korean monitors have been overclocked for years with no issues.

Q: Should I buy an X-star or a Qnix (Any differences? Which one will overclock better?)
A: Short answer: Choose whichever one you want.
Long answer: They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability.

Q: Should I buy a matte or glossy monitor?
A: Glossy is superior for image clarity (clarity = sharpness of image. not 'quality' or 'color' of image). The Matte coating on these monitors is semi-Glossy, not a thick Matte coating so it isn't as obtrusive as traditional matte coating. So, choosing Matte or Glossy comes down to if you will be bothered by reflections. If there is a potential for daylight or electrical light reflection, do not get Glossy.

Q: Can i remove the stock stand (base and stem) and mount the monitor?
A: Yes. Both the qnix and x-star have 100mm vesa mount pattern, so mounting is possible. Removing the base is easy (unscrew the thumb screw on the bottom), but removing the clear stem requires opening the monitor casing and unscrewing it. There are multiple videos and pictures below in the "Monitor fixes, support, help" area describing how to open the monitor casing. Once the monitor casing is opened, it is easy to see how to unscrew the screws holding in the base stem.

Q: Will I be able to notice the response time and/or input lag (especially in gaming)?
A: Many users, myself included, have noticed motion blur during FPS gaming (such as planetside 2). It would be even more noticeable in 'twitch' gaming. It is fine for regular use (Leauge of Legends, Guildwars 2, etc.), but gaming professionals should look elsewhere.

Q: Is the panel 6 or 8 bit?
A: Panel is 8 bit.

Q: Differences between IPS and PLS? (why is one better than the other, if that?)
A: IPS is made by LG and PLS is made by Samsung. They are both pretty much the same thing, but technically PLS is better.

Q: I don't live in the U.S.. How much will I have to pay in additional shipping fees, VAT, taxes, etc.?
A: Look at the expandable section below titled "VAT, Fees, Taxes by Country"

Q: Does my monitor have any dead pixels or back light bleed?
A: Here is a good website to check. Choose a color and make it full screen to check dead/stuck pixels. For checking back light bleed, choose the black and make it full screen. Make your surroundings as dark as possible with no lights or daylight.

Q: Oh noe, I received a monitor and it has back light bleed (BLB)!! How will I know if it is worthy of getting a return over?
A: Some ebay sellers straight up say that BLB is not something they take returns over. There have been exceptions, however. So take pictures of the monitor in the best standardized way to show BLB. Refer to the "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help" section below for the subsection titled "How to properly take pictures of your backlight bleed" to learn how to take pictures of the BLB, and post them here on this forum.

Q: Is there a way to fix back light bleed (BLB)?
A: Possibly, to some degree. Look below in the expandable section titled "Tape mod to fix Back Light Bleed"

Q: What GPU should I have to support the resolution of this monitor?
A: For non-gaming, anything is fine as long as it has the DVI-D port. For gaming, a card with 2GB GDDR5 is recommended and anything above that is great. Below 2GB will work, just not the best for modern games.

*It should be noted that the listed Response time of the Qnix is 6ms, where it is reported to actually be 8ms*
Quote:
Originally Posted by dascth View Post










This is strange, the larger hole on the left has no purpose, it's the small hole in the middle you use.



This one came out easily, the rest were pretty well stuck in.


panel/casing gaps




tilt





My 10' Monoprice 24awd DVI-D compared to the 3' one in the monitor box.
Comes come with a DVI-DL cable. It's not very long. Also comes with plug, so find an old PC PSU cable.
http://minus.com/lhBLUNzitIRnG

They included a USA adapter.
http://minus.com/luEymcdwGGEdq
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post













Monitor Fixes, Support, Help

Some analysis on the members list submissions, done by yours truly
These should not be a persons ONLY source in buying advice. If unsure, ask us about a seller or specific listing.
This is simply to show trends in what members here have purchased thus far. Enjoy



My QNIX from hulustar had this play within the monitor case, once I knew about it I had to fix it. Also, my screen sat too low in the monitor case and cut off the image a little.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cor35vet View Post


Not really accurate, just try pushing the plastic at these spots with a screwdriver from the side. It isn't really hard.
I followed the post above and its image to open up the monitor case.
After following this, you will see that the front portion of the monitor casing (the bezel) comes off. From this point, the screen isn't removable since it is attached to the metal frames on each side with 2 screws per side. Unscrew those 2 screws and the screen is now able to move around, with the monitor connections still connected. Be careful!


Found this inside. A Samsung PLS panel, that confirms that.


The metal frame that holds the monitor in place rests inside the bottom of the monitor case, as circled in red. To solve my image being cut off on the bottom, I wanted to add something here as a spacer.


Another view of where the metal frame rests on. This is the bottom of the monitor case.


Decided to use electrical tape as a spacer. Added 3 layers of electrical tape on the 4 raised circle areas that go up each side of the monitor case edge where the metal frame rests on. You can slightly still see the raised circular areas underneath the tape. This solves the 'play' that the monitor screen has within the monitor case, and also pushes the screen closer towards the bezel and closes that ugly gap.


A close up of the above image. The bottom-most red circle on this image is where the metal screen frame rests on. This is where I also added some pieces of electrical tape so the screen would sit higher in the monitor casing. Now, my screen image doesn't getting cut off anymore.


The results. Perfectly centered image and no screen panel rocking back and forth internally

Comprehensive video playlist showing how to do the dismantle the monitor and do the Tape Mod
. This starts on video 1 of 17. To streamline the process, it is suggested to watch videos 1-5, skip 6-10, watch 11-13. Assembly is in the reverse order.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rushstrike View Post

Alright I got mine and found that it has 0 dead pixels however it had a terrible light bleed in the bottom right corner (like my other korean monitors). I tried to use my finger and massaged the area and pushed it and eventually got the light bleed to go away however it causes that same area to be darker than normal. I can use my 2 finger and push on it to make it more uniform.... I knew even if I return this monitor the next one I get would probably have the same light bleed or possible more dead pixels.

SOLUTION TO FIX BOTTOM RIGHT LIGHT BLEED
After a week I couldn't stand it anymore so I decided to open the thing up to fix it. The monitor indeed is a PLS monitor : http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL02_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_overview_12403.html
All I did was made sure that the panel sit flush against the frame and added black electrical tape at the bottom right on top of the glass piece around the LED array to make sure there's no light leak. Now my monitor is perfect granted i caused 1 dead pixel in the process.

Light bleed gone but still has some annoying dark region

Dark pixels lessen if I push against it

Time to open it up and give it a real fix



No more light bleed or dark region!

*Current club signup form crashed due to so many signups!*
laughingsmiley.gif


Club signature code
post-flame-small.gif
The Korean PLS Monitor Club
post-flame-small.gif


Code:

Code:
[CENTER]:clock:  [B][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-2560x1440-pls-monitor-club] The Korean PLS Monitor Club[/URL][/B] :clock:[/CENTER]
 

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subbed. Waiting on my monitor almost here.

I am home now... opened the monitor, zero dead pixels I can find atm, I think the blacklight bleed is very minimal and I've overclocked it straight to 120Hz (after a driver update). Seems to be working so far. xD very very impressed, happy, and relieved that it works so well.

No modifications yet. PS: 130Hz standard gets some tiny artifacts. Gonna test some more and take some pictures too
smile.gif
 

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Here is my pics ,I just received this today and I bought it from excellentcastle here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27-QNIX-QX2710-Evolution-ll-Matte-Screen-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/261201533664?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3cd0d31ae0&nma=true&si=0y1sZdChCYjNtxyX0cXjZsj9nWg%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Price:
US $297.98
Approximately £195.31

Postage:
US $20.00 (approx. £13.11)

So £208.42 + Paypal fees = 213.89 + 62.51 = £ 276.40

So final bill was £ 276.40 that is including the 62.51 customs charge , overall I cant see any dead pixels and back light bleed aint too bad at all and I cant see much difference from the glossy First FSM-270YV monitor i had before. I am happy with this purchase I just need to overclock it but I will save that for tomorrow.

















 

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Thanks for starting this up. Some quick snippet info that might be useful to people and that you can add to your original post:

driver patch method for overclocking and "Automatic - LCD reduced" trick to get 120Hz
the point that changing refresh rate changes monitor gamma
list of most common problems people have: screen play, blacklight bleed/cloud, yellow bleed
how to remove stand (pretty simple, just two screws after you open up case and tip up LCD panel)
force people to learn this difference between DVI-D and Dual Link DVI (is this wishful thinking?)

I'll edit if I think of any more.

Thanks again!

EDIT:
how to adjust tilt pressure (loosen/tighten the same screws you take out to remove stand)
how to get out of test mode (if I ever figure it out
weirdsmiley.gif
)
 

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What do you think of starting and/or maintaining a master list?

It could include any of the following as columns... especially the bold ones.

Username, Make, Model, Overclocked Hz (if applicable), seller, price paid , Known Issues (ie Pixels, Back light Bleed, Seller communication, etc)

I think it would answer a TON of questions across the board.

Peace out.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmathew View Post

What do you think of starting and/or maintaining a master list?

It could include any of the following as columns... especially the bold ones.

Username, Make, Model, Overclocked Hz (if applicable), seller, price paid , Known Issues (ie Pixels, Back light Bleed, Seller communication, etc)

I think it would answer a TON of questions across the board.

Peace out.
+1 to this, I'll update my post.
 

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Fantastic work taking all the good posts and putting it all in one place.

Very well done!

Add me:

hamzatm
QNIX
QX2710
120Hz
dream-seller
$289
No known issues

thumb.gif
 

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Added to the member list. Swapped out my 27" IPS Iruns for one QNIX running at 120hz. Better color, blacks, 120hz, and cheaper! These monitors are outstanding values. Too bad they are 8ms panels, as there is some blur to fast movement.
 

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Just wanted to post some of my overclocking experiences. I was able to take my monitor up to 96Hz but in games, with Vsync on, I was only getting half that, 48 FPS. When I went to 120Hz, the picture looked fine but the monitor would freeze up and stutter every couple seconds. I used the overclocking tutorial here to patch my drivers but that still didn't work. Turns out that setting Vsync (smooth) in the Nvidia Control Panel was the problem, I set it to just Vsync and now I can get the full frame rate, 120Hz runs without stuttering too. This monitor is looking better and better by the second!
 

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Three Qnix screens on the way... So subbed!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf6768 View Post

Just wanted to post some of my overclocking experiences. I was able to take my monitor up to 96Hz but in games, with Vsync on, I was only getting half that, 48 FPS. When I went to 120Hz, the picture looked fine but the monitor would freeze up and stutter every couple seconds. I used the overclocking tutorial here to patch my drivers but that still didn't work. Turns out that setting Vsync (smooth) in the Nvidia Control Panel was the problem, I set it to just Vsync and now I can get the full frame rate, 120Hz runs without stuttering too. This monitor is looking better and better by the second!
Are you using both ingame Vsync and nvidia control panel Vsync?
 
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