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Discussion Starter #1
I saw this one the other day for sale for like $300..

http://www.procooling.com/reviews/ht...52_review_.php

Thats a review for it, the guy says it gets -10c idle, and around 0c full load..

I was thinking of making my own.. Reason being, this one is $300, and it only uses 3/8" tubing..

I was also thinking I could use lower wattage tec's. That one uses Dual 226 watt tech's..

I also have homemade waterblocks, and am/will make more...

My idea.. 3 homemade blocks,
Center block, with 2 120watt techs on each side with the cold sides towards the center block, then have 2 outside blocks strapped to them.
Then have 1 line using a new pump that'l run my CPU and GPU and to the cetner block..
Then have a second line using my current Via aqua and double heatercore, and that'l go to both the outside hot blocks and to the radiator to cool..

That, or I could use just 2 blocks, and have the cold block, a 120-226 watt tec, then the hot block...
And if that wasne't enough cooling, just double up and add another tech and another block for cooling the tec...

I figure this setup would run pretty cheap, and woulden't be loud at ALL.. well when compaired to a AC unit kicking on and off like 10 times a day..
not to mention, I dont think my dad will let me do anything like a AC unit striped apart in this house, he already thinks my water cooling will catch fire, and tec's are small and he'd never see all that...

My questions about this, anyone done it or have any guides on making a homemade one? so I can compair other ppl's and tweak my design..

Also how powerfull of TEC's do you think i'l need?

Im gonna be using a AMD 64 3400+ DTR mobile processor

All Products> Processors > AMD > N82E16819103442

AMD Athlon 64 3400+, 1MB L2 Cache, 64-bit Processor for DTR Notebooks - OEM
http://www.gameve.com/gve/Store/Prod...CPU-AMD64M-003

And dunno what video card yet, gf4 ti4600 temporary, but in a few months i'l be upgrading...

I think I might try a 172watt TEC
 

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Discussion Starter #2
from what I read on another site, the processor produces 81.5 watts of heat...

I will be overclocking as far as possible...

Maybe a couple 120watt tec's? Or should I go for a 170 see if it works, if not, add another 170?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Quote:

Originally Posted by Sai_Jao
hell man ONLY go for well known water cooler companies
Whats that mean? waste my money and buy the Dual 226 watt peltier unit?

$300....
Then I still gotta buy PSU's..

Or I could make my own for $50 shipped for 2 320 watt peltiers
$55 shipped for 2 32amp PSU's
Free via aqua 1300 + heatercore Im already using (upgading pump anyways)
and tubing aint ****.. $10

$110 at MOST.. tahts if I used 640 watts of TEC power.... I know I dont need that much, im just trying to figure out how much imma need..

Thats why im asking... Cause im thinkin i'l only need like 2 120watts, or maybe even a 170watt and double up if I need more...
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Towlieee
Whats that mean? waste my money and buy the Dual 226 watt peltier unit?

$300....
Then I still gotta buy PSU's..

Or I could make my own for $50 shipped for 2 320 watt peltiers
$55 shipped for 2 32amp PSU's
Free via aqua 1300 + heatercore Im already using (upgading pump anyways)
and tubing aint ****.. $10

$110 at MOST.. tahts if I used 640 watts of TEC power.... I know I dont need that much, im just trying to figure out how much imma need..

Thats why im asking... Cause im thinkin i'l only need like 2 120watts, or maybe even a 170watt and double up if I need more...
437 Watt TEC
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-blc-134.html?id=iok6mKYK
 

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437 watts!?! What's he gonna do with that, chance the climate?
dual 170 watt peilters would be the way, over 300 watts at the end and he's computer wont generate anywhere near that on the CPU+GPU. Problem with 437watt peilter is that you're gonna need a big ass PSU to power it, and he might have to link his PSUs together to do it properly, which in itself can be harmful to the PSus. Just 2 170s and run them off your two PSUs, or even get two 200s if you wanna be a bit more exteme.
Just my opinion though
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by stainless
437 watts!?!
No, 437w is more of what you would need. In NoAffinity's review of the Dominator PRO with a 336w TEC he overclocked the 3.2E to 3.6Ghz and he hit 18c while running Prime95..
I'd say if you want to keep your processor in the negatives, and maybe a little bit in the positives while under-load, grab a 437w.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
im prolly just gonna go regular chilled liquid cooling now =P

Figure i'l spend about $80 on a AC unit, then i'l have the capacity to cool 2 pc's at -30c ish idle and -10c to 0c full load


Although I think the tec idea would still be cool if ac units wern't soo damn cheap, it just blows my mind $80 for an ac unit...
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ShawnMcGrail
No, 437w is more of what you would need. In NoAffinity's review of the Dominator PRO with a 336w TEC he overclocked the 3.2E to 3.6Ghz and he hit 18c while running Prime95..
I'd say if you want to keep your processor in the negatives, and maybe a little bit in the positives while under-load, grab a 437w.

you'd pay more for the pSU than you would the peilter though... Dual 226watt would be just as good.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by stainless
you'd pay more for the pSU than you would the peilter though... Dual 226watt would be just as good.

all that + the huge power bill
 

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Yeah, well for a 437w Arctic Web you only need two $50 PSU's, and alot of insulation. The power bill wouldn't be much as long as you aren't using it to fold 24/7. lol.
 

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Powerisn't real issue, some thread was talking about it awhile ago on here. Not very high, something like 30 - 60 AU dollars a year i think... I can't remember though!
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Towlieee
im prolly just gonna go regular chilled liquid cooling now =P

Figure i'l spend about $80 on a AC unit, then i'l have the capacity to cool 2 pc's at -30c ish idle and -10c to 0c full load


Although I think the tec idea would still be cool if ac units wern't soo damn cheap, it just blows my mind $80 for an ac unit...
That's probably a good idea. Those cheap ac units can be used in several ways, and as you said, are very inexpensive. You can:

1.) build a chiller

2.) build an enclosed airtight AC box and use aircooling

3.) build a phase change unit

It is possible to build a phase change system out of one of those ac units, but you need the tools in order to do so.
 

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I bought a window airconditioner for 25$ at a garage sale. Anyway, it gets so cold that it condensates all over my desk and im afraid that if I put my rad on it, it will make the water so cold that there will be condensation all over my video card and and cpu/mobo. Would it be worth it to put dielectric grease all over my stuff so I can run the A/C? Also, could I make an effective phasechange unit out of it?

Sorry for stealing your thread towl
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by PCnerd
I bought a window airconditioner for 25$ at a garage sale. Anyway, it gets so cold that it condensates all over my desk and im afraid that if I put my rad on it, it will make the water so cold that there will be condensation all over my video card and and cpu/mobo. Would it be worth it to put dielectric grease all over my stuff so I can run the A/C? Also, could I make an effective phasechange unit out of it?

Sorry for stealing your thread towl

If you do get sub-ambient temps, then you will need to insulate everything. Your tubing, the waterblocks, video card, socket area, everything needs insulating. What you can also do is create an airtight box (using a large icechest). You will have to cut a hole large enough for the evaporator coils to fit inside the icechest, or at least a hole large enough to mate with the evaporator coils so that the cold air gets blown into the case. You will also have to rewire the compressor to run 24/7, but that is not difficult to do.

About making a phase change system. It is possible, but you would have to remove the evaporator coils and replace it with an evaporator block. But to do this, you must have a recovery tank, be certified to remove/recharge the gas, and own a torch to braze the evap block on. Unless you have all of that, then professional help is needed. It is not very difficult, you just to know what you are doing.
 
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Lando95
If you do get sub-ambient temps, then you will need to insulate everything. Your tubing, the waterblocks, video card, socket area, everything needs insulating. What you can also do is create an airtight box (using a large icechest). You will have to cut a hole large enough for the evaporator coils to fit inside the icechest, or at least a hole large enough to mate with the evaporator coils so that the cold air gets blown into the case. You will also have to rewire the compressor to run 24/7, but that is not difficult to do.

About making a phase change system. It is possible, but you would have to remove the evaporator coils and replace it with an evaporator block. But to do this, you must have a recovery tank, be certified to remove/recharge the gas, and own a torch to braze the evap block on. Unless you have all of that, then professional help is needed. It is not very difficult, you just to know what you are doing.
Thanks. About the phase change, do you think the compressor in a window airconditioner is up to cooling a Prescott? Also, how much do you think iy would coust to put an evaporator heas on it? Btw, Im pretty sure it has 1/4" copper tubing. Is that a problem?
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by PCnerd
Thanks. About the phase change, do you think the compressor in a window airconditioner is up to cooling a Prescott? Also, how much do you think iy would coust to put an evaporator heas on it? Btw, Im pretty sure it has 1/4" copper tubing. Is that a problem?
The compressor will probably handle it just fine. You will not get the best temps in the world, but it would still work. Now if you changed the factory gas over to r404, you could see some significant improvements. But the with stock gas (most likely r134), you would see evap temps of around -35 or so, and under full load the evap would probably be around -10C. So you are still looking at sub zero cpu temps.

A good evap that is ready to go with the mounting hardware will cost you about $100. Then to have someone convert the unit for you would probably be about another $100 or so. Still, less than $300 for sub zero temps is pretty damn cheap.
 

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Just read a thread at Xtreme about that--fascinating trials and tribulations of negative temp coolant loops--and that was just the chiller box--imagine the care it takes to insulate ever component and line and still be able to do maintenance...wow.

A nitro clocker used dielectric oil in a plastic tray and submerged everything--what he learned is that at first the oil slowed the temp drop--but eventually the oil got so cold the mobo gave up. Which means either heating and/or insulating the caps and other troublesome areas from extreme low temps.

Looks like you could easily put enough cash into building a dual loop chiller to get a used vaporchange without all the plumbing hassles.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CyberDruid
A nitro clocker used dielectric oil in a plastic tray and submerged everything--what he learned is that at first the oil slowed the temp drop--but eventually the oil got so cold the mobo gave up. Which means either heating and/or insulating the caps and other troublesome areas from extreme low temps.
If I didn't read the thread on that one, I wouldn't have a clue what your talking about with the Oil getting really cold.

Just to clarify with anyone who hasn't read that one before, It was because the guy had part of a Copper Tube with LN² in it submerged (1/4 in the oil ) dropping the Oil to -48 (?) and it really started screwing with the caps..
 

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man I need a filing system for all the odd threads in my head...

What I wonder is how well these little aquarium pumps hold up to denatured and polypropolene glycol. I can see setting it up so that condensation is controlled--but without using different pumps than typical watercoolers use I foresee seal and impeller failure.

PhaseChange VaporChill type coolers localize the cold spot in the expansion chamber or cold plate if I am not mistaken so that takes care of some plumbing and condensation issues right there.

It seems like chasing subzero temps with a dual-loop chiller is pretty involved if you want more than a one-clock wonder. Having a container of highly combustible fluid is another concern (though the antifreeze might ameliorate that condition somewhat) as would maintaining the apparatus.
 
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