[ThrashZone]

Lets just all be clear as this has come up before. There is a distinct difference between a flow indicator being a clear hamster wheel that is purely aesthetic and never moves correctly and a flow meter which is an actual precision instrument the puts out a signal to measure actual flow rate.

I use the latter to feed back to my aquaero and I use a liquid temps sensor as well. These two allow me to control PWM D5 pump speeds and PWM fan speeds with a hysterics you just cant get from ANY mobo or other controller. You can't use CPU temps as a reference unless you like hearing fans ramping quickly all the time.

Mine is off of 100% liquid temp control which is what the pumps and fans are cooling. Takes awhile for 2 liters of liquid to heat up as well as cool down.

Nothing usually hits max speed unless Im running a hard bench in a loop and that take some time with a very slow ramp.

Ive tried everything else under the sun. Using a mobo you have high and low temps on liquid set so far apart it lets components get too hot.

I hear of people with 45-50C liquid temp and my sphincter slams shut. mine runs low end speeds at 28C and below(10%) and maxes out at 32C 0100%) which is about as high as it would ever go with all pumps and fans at 100%. Makes a huge difference when you are thinking in terms of temp delta.

If my GPU is good for 12C temp delta 32=12 gives me a max CPU of 44C. Run it at 45C and now maxing out at 57C and well past the first step thermal throttle which isn't much better than air. I dont hit throttle on anything.

So IMO good quality flow METER (not indicator) and liquid temp monitoring is a must unless running 20 fans and 3 pumps at max RPMs 24x7 and not being able to detect changes is OK with you, its not with me LOL, If I can hear the rig over average game play or workloads with headphones on a moderate level there's a problem.

Got shipping label created but no movement within USPS at this point. Not uncommon, Sometimes I get nothing until out for delivery. Already have plenty of parts, tubing and fitting laying around for the necessary loop changes.

Hi,
A wall of text is always painful to follow please use the return key after a period to start a new sentence

 

[JustinThyme]

Hi,
A wall of text is always painful to follow please use the return key after a period to start a new sentence

Then it would be a few pages. I know Im verbose as hell but I also try not to leave it taking 10 posts back and forth, get it all answered fir time around.



EDITED ORIGINAL POST FOR THE DYSLEXIC FOLKS FROM SAXET

 

[BleedOutCold]

VERTICAL GPU: what are you imagining exactly? Inlet on the right, not the left?

Just so - like a lot of people, I've got a standard mobo orientation case with the pumps on the right side of the main chamber. Thus, a vertical mounted GPU has the inlet on the far side from my pumps; running in the front left and out the back right is how it is now. For cleaner/easier plumbing, it'd be better to run both on the back of the terminal, into the right side of the block and out the left, without sacrificing optimal flow direction. Ports on the back of the terminal would be great, obviously.

 

[Optimus WC]

Answers:

-THERMAL PADS V PASTE: There are a couple reasons why we aren't going with the paste-on-ram style. For us, the priority needs to be GPU die contact above all else. By trying to make perfect contact on both die and the huge ram footprint, it makes perfecting contact much harder, if not impossible. Really, the die is where the magic happens. And RAM OC isn't nearly as sensitive/responsive to heat. So putting paste on RAM would only benefit in the most insane ram OC scenarios, which even on LN show really small gains.

And then, it's not worth the risk for PCB being slightly funky or whatever, no board is perfect. thus, causing an issue with contact. Going with .5mm Fuji is, in our opinion, the best performance and usability. Haven't seen any reviews/benchmarks of the paste-on-ram method, though haven't looked super hard. Of course, if paste really had a huge gain, we'd change it up .

It's also worth mention the vrm is more important -- the more power draw, the cooler, the better. So our plate is really tailored for improved power delivery, so cranking bios over 500w into the 2080Ti, you'll see noticeable mhz benefits.

-TOP TERMINAL: Ah, I get what you're saying. And that makes sense, for sure. The issue is the NVLINK is so close to the GPU die. We'd have to do some funky rework of the entire block in order to put the outlet to the left of the inlet. It's all possible, it's just not the cleanest performance-first design.

 

[Zurv]

I can't wait put the blocks in my systems

(hrmm... i'm wondering if i should redo my LM in my delied 7980xe .... argh.. come on intel ship more 10980xe CPUs!!)

 

[Glerox]

Anyone has pictures of the TR3 Absolute block with the silver finish? (only satin black on the website).

This block looks like a BEAST.

 

[Optimus WC]

Anyone has pictures of the TR3 Absolute block with the silver finish? (only satin black on the website).

This block looks like a BEAST.

No one should have a pic yet It's not released, though looking like end of next week for first blocks to ship. The colors for the TR blocks are the same satin silver and black as our other products. As soon as the block is done, we'll be posting pics here and on our twitter: https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC

 

[JustinThyme]

Well looks like a day later than expected. ordered Friday, label created Monday (evidently after mail run), left for post office today so Thursday pending arrival. Have a long Job at a a hedgefund datacenter Friday and a 12 hour thing or more at a black rock faciltiy on Monday so probably no updates until next week. Shame as all I had this week was a short job Monday then a little paper work Today and tomorrow. Could have been posting up results on Sunday instead of starting tear down then.

 

[Glerox]

No one should have a pic yet It's not released, though looking like end of next week for first blocks to ship. The colors for the TR blocks are the same satin silver and black as our other products. As soon as the block is done, we'll be posting pics here and on our twitter: https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC

thanks!

 

[skupples]

i'd love to see a port into the butt of the card, and a single port out the side. Instead of both ports being on the butt, or both ports being on the side.

 

[BigHilo]

Answers:

[...] Haven't seen any reviews/benchmarks of the paste-on-ram method, though haven't looked super hard. Of course, if paste really had a huge gain, we'd change it up .

[...]

- nine RTX 2080 Ti blocks tested on 380 watts, 30 mins gaming loop of The Witcher 3, UHD
- written reviews are shorter than the corresponding YouTube videos and unfortunately only in German
- thermal images for each block are the most interesting IMHO



Aqua Computer Kryographics Next (with paste on RAM):
https://www.igorslab.de/aqua-comput...nzug-fuer-die-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-igorslab/2/

EKWB Vector:
https://www.igorslab.de/ek-waterblo...ung-und-ein-showdown-bei-380-watt-igorslab/2/


Phanteks Glacier:
https://www.igorslab.de/phanteks-gl...lung-und-ein-treffen-bei-380-watt-igorslab/2/

Watercool Heatkiller:
https://www.igorslab.de/watercool-h...-loop-wasserkuehlung-bei-380-watt-igorslab/2/

Alphacool GPX-N Plexi Light M02:
https://www.igorslab.de/alphacool-e...d-rtx-2070-im-380-watt-haertetest-igorslab/2/

Alphacool GPX-N M02:
https://www.igorslab.de/alphacool-g...ckplate-fuer-die-rtx-2080-ti-2080-und-2070/2/

Rajintek Samos:
https://www.igorslab.de/raijintek-s...ck-als-preisbrecher-mit-passabler-leistung/2/

Corsair Hydro X:
https://www.igorslab.de/corsair-hyd...rtx-2080-ti-mit-380-watt-einstand-gelungen/2/

TechN TN:
https://www.igorslab.de/techn-tn-gp...serblock-100-made-in-germany-exklusiv-test/2/

 

[shiokarai]

I see that designers that went from EKWB to the Corsair after the "split" did a mighty fine job with designing new Corsair blocks Shame that EK is only reusing/reiterating old designs ad infinitum nowadays, it's starting to show on the performance numbers, quite striking difference.

btw, like seen above, thermal paste on the memory makes sense - if you do it correctly.

 

[ciarlatano]

I see that designers that went from EKWB to the Corsair after the "split" did a mighty fine job with designing new Corsair blocks Shame that EK is only reusing/reiterating old designs ad infinitum nowadays, it's starting to show on the performance numbers, quite striking difference.

btw, like seen above, thermal paste on the memory makes sense - if you do it correctly.

What flavor Kool Aid was that?

 

[skupples]

seems like JUST paste would be messy af. I've always put a dot of tim on each side of my fujipoly, as I figured filling .5mm with tim = giant mess.

it would be nice to see a block machined to the tolerance to not need pads, but something tells me imperfections in chip height are why we use pads in the first place.

 

[toolmaker03]

I personally have never been a fan of thermal pads, I have always been the type to replace them with paste. I would also agree that chip tolerances are not equal, even across a single card. I am the type to use feeler gages, to see how much paste I will need to bridge the gap, between the water block, and chips.

 

[skupples]

seems like you'd need to use REALLY thick stuff then.

 

[toolmaker03]

seems like you'd need to use REALLY thick stuff then.

I like AS5 seems to work fine under normal conditions.


not so great for extreme cooling, as it dries out when it gets below 0C.

 

[JustinThyme]

What flavor Kool Aid was that?

The get off the ugly EK badge and wake the eff up Kool aid. Ive been saying it for awhile that they have become complacent and slipping to the back of the pack. They are barely comparable with the Phanteks that us actually keeping VRMs cooler. All these tests were done without passive backplats on those that accept in and no active backplate on the Kryograhics card.

 

[skupples]

at least everyone knows to cool VRMs these days (looking at you Swiftech!)

 

[toolmaker03]

at least everyone knows to cool VRMs these days (looking at you Swiftech!)

well I do like the new mono block system some companies are making today. long before they existed I would just get the different lengths of koolance VRM coolers and thermal epoxy them to the motherboard. I would do the same thing with the south bridge chipset, just get a universal water block roughly the same size and thermal epoxy that block to the motherboard. these specifically made water blocks have never been a necessity, I have always considered them to be a luxury item.