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My beautiful build! (not!) I have too many sensors and crap in here to be able to tidy it away. This is why I need a true dual-chamber case, so I can hide all the sensors and controllers in the second chamber and tidy up the main chamber.

Man, those quick disconnects are super handy. I could easily disconnect the gpu so I could shake it around and turn it upside down to get the remaining bubbles out, and plug it back in. No leaks!

View attachment 2479500
There is actually something very pleasingly industrial about this...in a pretty bad ass kind of way.
 

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Booo
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I don't think I will ever get a case again that doesn't have the compartment in the back. I stuck my controllers and sensor stuff on the very top of the compartment.

Yeah, I actually got the 011D XL first, but returned it when I realized the HDD cage is terribly ventilated, with my drives approaching 58 degrees, at the upper limit of operating range. I tried adding a small 80mm fan there to create circulation, but it didn't help. That was unacceptable to me and just a design oversight from Lian Li. So I got the Phanteks Enthoo 719 instead, but not too happy with this case, as there is technically a chamber in the back, but it's so tiny that it's stuffed full of cables and I can't put anything else back there.

So I have my Aquaero 6 LT stuffed in the upper right part of the case when you look at my picture, above the 3x 140mm fans. And then I also have an Octo as I needed to control a bunch more fans and other stuff. And then temp sensors, flow sensors, all those fan cables, it quickly just becomes too many wires to tuck away. I'd like to have a minimalist build someday, but I'll need a bigger case for that. Ideally something like the Thermaltake W200 which is a huge dual-chamber case (almost like dual ATX case), but preferably from a manufacturer like Lian Li which would be better quality. I could then stuff the second chamber with controllers and HDDs and reservoirs, and have the main chamber be very clean and empty except for some tubing runs.
 

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Yeah having the dual chamber makes hiding cables and everything so much easier. 50+ fans and multiple pumps, and sensors and the MB side will be almost cable free.
 
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Yeah, when I designed and built my case, having a chamber below my motherboard area was a major design requirement...



It also has the benefit of largely isolating the radiator airflow from the other components and allowing for direct airflow in the upper chamber, so everything is getting cool outside air with no mixing.

Now the rats nest of wiring of all the fans and LED's down in there...
 

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Yeah, I actually got the 011D XL first, but returned it when I realized the HDD cage is terribly ventilated, with my drives approaching 58 degrees, at the upper limit of operating range. I tried adding a small 80mm fan there to create circulation, but it didn't help. That was unacceptable to me and just a design oversight from Lian Li. So I got the Phanteks Enthoo 719 instead, but not too happy with this case, as there is technically a chamber in the back, but it's so tiny that it's stuffed full of cables and I can't put anything else back there.

So I have my Aquaero 6 LT stuffed in the upper right part of the case when you look at my picture, above the 3x 140mm fans. And then I also have an Octo as I needed to control a bunch more fans and other stuff. And then temp sensors, flow sensors, all those fan cables, it quickly just becomes too many wires to tuck away. I'd like to have a minimalist build someday, but I'll need a bigger case for that. Ideally something like the Thermaltake W200 which is a huge dual-chamber case (almost like dual ATX case), but preferably from a manufacturer like Lian Li which would be better quality. I could then stuff the second chamber with controllers and HDDs and reservoirs, and have the main chamber be very clean and empty except for some tubing runs.
That is strange. Every setup is a bit different but here is what my drive temp is right now. Seagate 3TB 7200RPM drive.

 

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Yeah, when I designed and built my case, having a chamber below my motherboard area was a major design requirement...



It also has the benefit of largely isolating the radiator airflow from the other components and allowing for direct airflow in the upper chamber, so everything is getting cool outside air with no mixing.

Now the rats nest of wiring of all the fans and LED's down in there...
Man that is freaking sweet. Where did you fab it all?
 

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Booo
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Yeah, when I designed and built my case, having a chamber below my motherboard area was a major design requirement...



It also has the benefit of largely isolating the radiator airflow from the other components and allowing for direct airflow in the upper chamber, so everything is getting cool outside air with no mixing.

Now the rats nest of wiring of all the fans and LED's down in there...
That's a really nice custom case, man! Wood even :) Woodworking is fun. It's slowly becoming a new hobby of mine.
 

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Yeah, when I designed and built my case, having a chamber below my motherboard area was a major design requirement...



It also has the benefit of largely isolating the radiator airflow from the other components and allowing for direct airflow in the upper chamber, so everything is getting cool outside air with no mixing.

Now the rats nest of wiring of all the fans and LED's down in there...
That is really cool. I don't know why but the design/color scheme kinda reminds me of an In-n-Out or Five Guys heh.
 

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Booo
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Guys, a noob question...
I had to change some of the M4x30 screws that came with the GTX420 rads because the thread of (on the tip) was worn out...does it matter if I will use stainless steel ones?
Does it matter what material the new screws are made of? (In regard of mixing metals...)
I guess not, because they are external..
Just want to be sure.
Thanks !
 

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Guys, a noob question...
I had to change some of the M4x30 screws that came with the GTX420 rads because the thread of (on the tip) was worn out...does it matter if I will use stainless steel ones?
Does it matter what material the new screws are made of? (In regard of mixing metals...)
I guess not, because they are external..
Just want to be sure.
Thanks !
As long as they aren't touching water then what material they're made of doesn't matter.
 

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Guys, a noob question...
I had to change some of the M4x30 screws that came with the GTX420 rads because the thread of (on the tip) was worn out...does it matter if I will use stainless steel ones?
Does it matter what material the new screws are made of? (In regard of mixing metals...)
I guess not, because they are external..
Just want to be sure.
Thanks !
Just be gentle with the stainless screws. They are weaker than regular steel screws in my experience. My boat uses a ton of them.
 

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So I am modding my Optimus reservoir, putting a piece of acrylic between the pump top and the base to effectively seal off the top and use it as a straight reservoir rather than a res/pump combo. What I need is a way to seal it up. I know I could use some pure silicone caulk, but want something that would be a bit less permanent and allow for it to be taken apart. I am thinking about using something like this...


or a bit thinner...this...


The way these pieces fit together isn't all that different than say a car intake manifold, or car thermostat.
 

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So I am modding my Optimus reservoir, putting a piece of acrylic between the pump top and the base to effectively seal off the top and use it as a straight reservoir rather than a res/pump combo. What I need is a way to seal it up. I know I could use some pure silicone caulk, but want something that would be a bit less permanent and allow for it to be taken apart. I am thinking about using something like this...


or a bit thinner...this...


The way these pieces fit together isn't all that different than say a car intake manifold, or car thermostat.
that might work. Wonder if you could find the right sized gasket at the autparts store attached to an oil filter?
 

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Here are the pieces...the top and bottom, and my acrylic piece that goes in between. I need a water proof seal between the top picec and my acrylic middle...

 

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Here are the pieces...the top and bottom, and my acrylic piece that goes in between. I need a water proof seal between the top picec and my acrylic middle...

If you end up going the silicone route use stuff that says ge1. Most other stuff has chemical fungal inhibitors that might not play nice with the loop.
 
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