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Discussion Starter · #9,021 ·
@Section31 Thank you very much for the information!

So it looks like all of the pads on the front are the same thickness, then it just comes down to how much I want to spend to get the higher W/mK pads for all of the components. Do you recommend any particular pad for the different components?

Thank you very much for your help!
-Jason
I have no experience on that. Some of our other users could help you there
 

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@Jsunn

If replacing the pads I’d personally go for the mid 13 W/mk level pad not the crazy 17 one. The higher ones are way too expensive IMO and I don’t think it will be much better then the 13’s. Another thing I would consider is they originally shipped with Fuji pads and when you disassembled it the pads ripped causing you to want to re pad it. So in other words if you ever have to disassemble it again for let’s say cleaning. The pads will probably rip again and do you want to replace them yet again with top pads? I don’t know. I wouldn’t. That’s way too expensive for what I’d bet is minimal gain. Just my train of thought.

I’m not sure which pads the block comes with but I doubt it’s the 17 W/mk.

I’d stick with the 13 W/mk ones. That’s what I’d do.
 

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So, I got my EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra block in today. Block feels solid and heavy, very nice quality! This replaced my Bykski block which I had fitting issues with. (Back plate was warped!)
The Optimum block fit perfect. Under load, it kept the card between 10-12 degrees C above the water temperature while the Bykski block was closer to 21 degrees above water temp at full load.
Memory temps are also much better, nearly 23C cooler than the Bykski.
For those keeping track, my order # was OP3834, purchased on March 12th. It was shipped on April 30th and arrived on May 4th. It should have been here on May 3rd but had been delayed one day due to severe weather in my region. My own belief when I purchased it was about a two month wait so I got it a bit earlier than what I was expecting.
I hope everyone can get theirs soon!

2489231
 

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Really nice looking, has anyone heard anything about black gaskets being available sometime? White looks nice, but I can't imagine it won't discolor eventually.
 

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Really nice looking, has anyone heard anything about black gaskets being available sometime? White looks nice, but I can't imagine it won't discolor eventually.
Black gaskets are available right now. You just have to ask for them. I have one coming via post right now with a replacement top for my scratched foundation.

Don’t ask for them on here tho. Message their direct email.
 

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Mine is modular build. I won’t need the mo-ra on unless its summer time. Three hk 360mm 50mm (whenever i get them) should be enough. I hope the rads are close to gtx performance but low resistance. My internal system is borderline line on high flow resistance (three qd4, one d5 next, optimus gpu and cpu block). Adding the mo-ra3 makes an big dent into flow rate.
Im kinda going that route with the MORA. Quick connects with a bypass (short piece of tubing with two more male quick connects) so its a matter of seconds to add or remove it from the loop without having to worry about coolant drain or loss of more than maybe a drop. Supposed to be none. Still want cooling in the case but Im going to be kicking it back a few notches and when I need it a matter of seconds to enable the fans on the MORA and plug in the coolant lines.


Definitely summer but that puppy should pump out some astounding OCs sitting in my window in the winter!
 

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SAY AMBIENT AGAIN! SAY IT
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Quick connects with a bypass (short piece of tubing with two more male quick connects) so its a matter of seconds to add or remove it from the loop
Just to save you a set of QDCs: Use a male QDC on the 'input' side and a female on the 'output' side. This way, when you go to bypass you can just connect the lines together if they are long enough. I did this for my second system.
 

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Just to save you a set of QDCs: Use a male QDC on the 'input' side and a female on the 'output' side. This way, when you go to bypass you can just connect the lines together if they are long enough. I did this for my second system.
I thought about that but I'm not leaving lines dangling out the back. Its going through a PCIE slot adaptor that's female threads on both sides. Hard pipe inside and female quick connects (shorter of the two) on the outside with the males being on the ends of the lines coming from the MORA. Only other way to leave them dangling would be to chop up a $900 case or leave the middle plate out, which will screw up my airflow plan, and run them down and around back where I have rubber grommets already which the 10 ft USB extension I already have ( for running a QUADRO) and relay output from aquaero is going to close the ATX on for a second PSU or just a long a$$ 12V homemade molex extension. That part is still up in the air. I have more than one spare PSUs laying around and a twisted pair of thermostat wire on a relay output of the aquaero 6 pro can turn on the other PSU on the 24pin ATX power on pins to run the pumps and fans on the MORA.

That though did cross my mid though.....just making it work would be harder than a piece of short tube with male ends on it. I was tempted to use a knock out kit and punch two holes but then decided against it. Probably go out the bottom slot as i have no intention of using the bottom PCIE slot for anything else unless its popping the two 900P AIC drives I have collecting dust. Dunno just yet. First step is getting the GPUs back horzontal, moving top rad to bottom and just having fans up top and removing middle rad and putting blank back in to the air from the bottom rad exits the back and front of the basement. Ill see what kind of room I have down there when I pull the 480 out thats down there now. May be enough to fit one of the drive cages and if thats the case everything is liable to change. right now Im using the right side of the MOBO for 4 drives and a serial pump top but theres another insert to put in the same spot that will hold a 360 rad or just fans. Thats the good thing about the Phanteks Enthoo elite. Everything you need for any configuration you can run with the case comes with it. No ordering more parts.
 

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Going on two weeks waiting for my replacement coldplate. Not happy with the shipping time at all.
My replacement stuff was shipped out via USPS international to Canada so I’m sure I will be waiting a good while aswell. USPS to Canada post is always snail mail for me. It’s been a week for me and the tracking number shows it’s still somewhere in the USPS network in the US. I’m personally not in a big rush so it’s no big deal but in other circumstances and if this was important system down time that would suck!
 

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My replacement stuff was shipped out via USPS international to Canada so I’m sure I will be waiting a good while aswell. USPS to Canada post is always snail mail for me. It’s been a week for me and the tracking number shows it’s still somewhere in the USPS network in the US. I’m personally not in a big rush so it’s no big deal but in other circumstances and if this was important system down time that would suck!

Yep damn USPS. So slow with tracking. Hasn't been updated since May 1st. All RMA's should be sent express.
 

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<Insert QDC plan here>
The other plan I had was to use a ball valve between the 'in' side and the 'out' side of the case-side QDCs. That way when I planned to remove the external rad I could just flip the ball valve open then remove the QDCs. This would eliminate the need for the bypass tube in your setup too. I was exploring this junk because I absolutely hate draining my loop so just bouncing the ideas I had out into the void incase they work for you too. I have 6 sets of QDCs on my single loop with one set for each system and one set for the MORA3/Little Giant so I was really trying to limit the amount I was spending on those as they get expensive REALLY fast.

Since we're already discussing them anyway, I'm really happy with the Koolance QD3 if you don't already have your heart set on something. I like having hex nut to use with a wrench for easy connecting and the disconnects themselves have yet to make a noticeable drop of water leak out when the pumps are off. I haven't been brave enough to try it with pumps running but I'm sure it wouldn't be too horrible.
 

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I have a second-hand optimus foundation AMD block (nickel plated), and I am assembling my first custom loop after coming from an AIO.
Since the waterblock is second-hand, I have no documentation or instructions for it. It came dissasembled, and I am not sure if I put it together correctly. I can't even find instructions for which port is inlet and which port is output (not marked on the block to the best of my knowledge).

Is there a specific orientation for the fins as well as the inlet/output? which port is inlet (the one with the ramp coming off it?

Also, can someone please point me to any docs around th waterblock, as I can't find much on the optimus website.

(I am seeing about a +5c diference under load over an AIO with this block and 600mm of rads, so I suspect I may have the orientation wrong).
 

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Lost in SoCal
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Inlet is the one with the slot on the inside (toward the center of the fins) and the fins go in line with the pair of fittings, if that helps.
2489529

Some good pics there
 

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Discussion Starter · #9,035 · (Edited)
I have a second-hand optimus foundation AMD block (nickel plated), and I am assembling my first custom loop after coming from an AIO.
Since the waterblock is second-hand, I have no documentation or instructions for it. It came dissasembled, and I am not sure if I put it together correctly. I can't even find instructions for which port is inlet and which port is output (not marked on the block to the best of my knowledge).

Is there a specific orientation for the fins as well as the inlet/output? which port is inlet (the one with the ramp coming off it?

Also, can someone please point me to any docs around th waterblock, as I can't find much on the optimus website.

(I am seeing about a +5c diference under load over an AIO with this block and 600mm of rads, so I suspect I may have the orientation wrong).
The inlet is noticable. You can see it on the main webpage. It's the one that has connection directly to center of block. Follow that image on the website and you should be right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9,036 ·
Inlet is the one with the slot on the inside (toward the center of the fins) and the fins go in line with the pair of fittings, if that helps.
View attachment 2489529
Some good pics there
The actual block was mine at one point. It's one of the blocks that used Optimus own locking mechanism before they replaced it with screws that could use the existing backplate. One of the first to develop what i now found out recently was stuff in the system easily sticking onto optimus cpu blocks cold plate and that resulted in me ending up replacing all my rads with new heatkiller internal ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9,037 ·
My replacement stuff was shipped out via USPS international to Canada so I’m sure I will be waiting a good while aswell. USPS to Canada post is always snail mail for me. It’s been a week for me and the tracking number shows it’s still somewhere in the USPS network in the US. I’m personally not in a big rush so it’s no big deal but in other circumstances and if this was important system down time that would suck!
At least cheaper and lower risk of taxes
 

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The other plan I had was to use a ball valve between the 'in' side and the 'out' side of the case-side QDCs. That way when I planned to remove the external rad I could just flip the ball valve open then remove the QDCs. This would eliminate the need for the bypass tube in your setup too. I was exploring this junk because I absolutely hate draining my loop so just bouncing the ideas I had out into the void incase they work for you too. I have 6 sets of QDCs on my single loop with one set for each system and one set for the MORA3/Little Giant so I was really trying to limit the amount I was spending on those as they get expensive REALLY fast.

Since we're already discussing them anyway, I'm really happy with the Koolance QD3 if you don't already have your heart set on something. I like having hex nut to use with a wrench for easy connecting and the disconnects themselves have yet to make a noticeable drop of water leak out when the pumps are off. I haven't been brave enough to try it with pumps running but I'm sure it wouldn't be too horrible.
QD3s are what I bought, matte black to blend in with everything else. That's not a bad idea with the ball valve. I have a couple laying around brand new that I bought and was going to use them for isolation on the inline filter I was using before I bought the aqauacomputer filter with the valves built in. At least that will put them one of them to use. Damn Bitspower ball valves are like $35 each. Only one I have in ATM is at my drain port in the bottom. Will depend on spacing on the PCIE adapter. May be able to get away with it with a couple of Tee's and a short nipple from adapter to tee with short side of tee's facing each other and ball valve between.
 

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Thanks for all the advice.

It turns out that I have the fins orthogonal to the flow, instead of parallel.

I'm not sure how much performance is impacted by this, but I'll order some new thermalpaste and redo the orientation.

Thanks again for the advice, I appreciate it.
 

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Going on two weeks waiting for my replacement coldplate. Not happy with the shipping time at all.
Slow boat via Shanhai. Dont know where you are but when they sent me a replacement It was immediate contact and apology and it was USPS priority and I had it two days later from Chi Town to Princeton, NJ They have changed since then though. At that point it was just CPU blocks. Then they introduced fittings followed by Reservoirs and GPU blocks. I think they took on more than that one CNC machine can chew. I get not a separate machine for every part. You have to be pushing some serious volume just to get your money back on the machines. But they should be running more than they are now. From things Ive heard them say they are wasting a half a day on changing out set up on that machine. Dont know what they have but anything modern its mostly a matter of dumping a program into it and someone to load raw material and unload finished parts and deburr what they just pulled while the next one is running. I did a shot stint in a wheel foundry that did casting followed by machining with 3 machines in each cell. Then they had cold roll for the corvette wheels. When they switched products it was a matter of changing out dies in the casting machines and dumping a different program into a PLC and CNCs in each cell from a PC in an office. Change production in 20 mins, the die change out was the hardest as You have to wait for whats in there to cool down to pull the previous run out then heat up the machine without a die in it so you could get the next dies in and bolted down. Furnace melting aluminum ran 24x7 th3en transfer with a big ladle into a heated holding tank under every casting machine. They would run down the row and by the time they got to the end it was time to go back to the first and fill it back up. They managed to keep them cranking. The only thing that really took time was the heat treat just before machining but the oven and quench tank was massive and load up about 500 wheels at a time on trees.
 
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