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Anyone see RTX A6000 reviews, apparently gddr6x is reason why ampere is an power hog.
Yes it was reported early on that the 24GB of vram in a 24x 1GB config on the 3090 uses upwards of 90W at stock clocks. That’s why there’s speculation that we may yet see a 3090 Super or Ti with 2.4% more cores enabled for a fully unlocked die, as well as a 12x 2GB vram setup at higher clock speeds and still lower overall power usage.
 

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My heatkiller blocks on 2080Tis are 1.2C delta at idle and 8C under heavy load, typical gaming around 6C. They dont publish any delta information Im aware of. They just make good blocks.
Liquid metal or thermal paste ? My 2080 with phanteks strix block can go up to 16C delta with very heavy load. Generally 12C when gaming. Depends on overclock, pump speed etc. Your numbers look too good to be true for thermal paste. If you check out VSG's reviews on techpowerup, general trend is 16-18C delta with 60 minutes timespy extreme.

I achieved superb delta with barrow block on vega 64 lc with liquid metal. The gpu pulls around 500W alone with oc and delta was 5-6C in extreme conditions(furmark etc). In comparison my 2080 strix pulls around 260W(305W with max power limit). Problem is cpu though. For some reason my cpu temps aren't better than simple aio coolers. Tried multiple thermal pastes and barrow+phanteks block. 9900kf is just crazy. I'm suspecting the quality control of these chips. Heat transfer is just bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9,903 ·
Yes it was reported early on that the 24GB of vram in a 24x 1GB config on the 3090 uses upwards of 90W at stock clocks. That’s why there’s speculation that we may yet see a 3090 Super or Ti with 2.4% more cores enabled for a fully unlocked die, as well as a 12x 2GB vram setup at higher clock speeds and still lower overall power usage.
True. We are 1.5years away from lovelace, rdna3 and dg3. Save up for that.
 

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Liquid metal or thermal paste ? My 2080 with phanteks strix block can go up to 16C delta with very heavy load. Generally 12C when gaming. Depends on overclock, pump speed etc. Your numbers look too good to be true for thermal paste. If you check out VSG's reviews on techpowerup, general trend is 16-18C delta with 60 minutes timespy extreme.

I achieved superb delta with barrow block on vega 64 lc with liquid metal. The gpu pulls around 500W alone with oc and delta was 5-6C in extreme conditions(furmark etc). In comparison my 2080 strix pulls around 260W(305W with max power limit). Problem is cpu though. For some reason my cpu temps aren't better than simple aio coolers. Tried multiple thermal pastes and barrow+phanteks block. 9900kf is just crazy. I'm suspecting the quality control of these chips. Heat transfer is just bad.
Kryonaut and a HeatKiller block.
Phanteks blocks are OK, they just don’t have an backplate leaving you with none, which is better than putting the stock one back on as it has zero contact and only insulates keeping heat in. The Heat killer back plate is pretty robust and makes contact via thermal pads on the back of the CPU, memory snd VRMs. I have zero respect for Techpowerup after they published the Optimus Sig V2 as king of the hill then when they got a sample of the EK magnitude named it the new king by 0.10C which is BS. If their delta continues to climb they have some cooling issues. If their overall liquid temp continues to climb they have an inadequate loop. Their 0.10C claim is well within the margin of error and tested on a 9900K. I ran extensive testing on both blocks with HEDT and my conclusion is out of the box they are comparable blocks. I got pretty much identical runs on both through many different scenarios. Biggest PITA with both is getting the TIM spread right and mounts. I run a pair of 2080Tis and the delta stated is fact whether it be TS in an endless loop or luxmark or any other load. The highest I’ve ever seen it spike is 9C but 8C is the norm. Barrow blocks suck. Tried that before others were released and they were warped, left me bleeding and made contact with maybe 3 of the primary VRMs and totally no contact by design with two of the secondary. Again no back plate and worst of all the pi$$ poor design put the placement of the water connections made it impossible to install an Nvlink bridge. I’m running strix 2080Tis, no overvolt as it does nothing for me but make the heat go up. 2130 on the cores. I measure the delta with a virtual sensor in aquasuite that’s a simple equation. GPU core temp less the liquid temp which never passes 30C.
Delta doesn’t have much to do with your loop other than pump pressure which 335L/M I don’t have pressure problems. I also don’t have rad surface area issues which has nothing to do with the Delta, just hotter liquid means hotter core temps. I’m sorry you don’t get good results with your rig but it’s no surprise using inferior blocks. Mine are great.

I can’t touch the OCs I get with an AIO. Won’t even hold up to an AVX workload at stock. Barrow and Phanteks blocks is where your problem is and maybe your loop. Only 3 blocks I’d consider. Optimus, EK Magnitude and Heat Killer IV pro.

Whats the rest of your loop? I’m running 3X D5 pumps. GTR 420, 480XE, 360 SE and GTS 360. I’m about to pull the 480XE and 360SE, leave the HW labs in and add a MORA3 420 to the loop.

I’m not one to post BS. I’ve posted here many times with substantial back up on the GPU blocks, Optimus blocks, EK magnitude block, Barrow POS blocks and HK IV blocks. I have nothing to prove to anyone. My only reason for posting is sharing information. Most of it at my own expense. I ran the Phanteks blocks on my 2080Tis for a short time with no back plate until Heat Killer released blocks. Those got around 15C delta. For GPU blocks less than 15C delta is OK, less than 10C delta is what a good block will provide. Everything under 10 are good blocks and there aren’t many. Good luck with you cooling venture. I hope you can get your components under control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9,906 ·
Optimus should get into tool making as well. I have invested a lot just in watercooling tools.

2517937
 

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Old and Decrepit
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Kryonaut and a HeatKiller block.
Phanteks blocks are OK, they just don’t have an backplate leaving you with none, which is better than putting the stock one back on as it has zero contact and only insulates keeping heat in. The Heat killer back plate is pretty robust and makes contact via thermal pads on the back of the CPU, memory snd VRMs. I have zero respect for Techpowerup after they published the Optimus Sig V2 as king of the hill then when they got a sample of the EK magnitude named it the new king by 0.10C which is BS. Well within the margin of error. I run a pair of 2080Tis and the delta stated is fact whether it be TS in an endless loop or luxmark or any other load. The highest I’ve ever seen it spike is 9C but 8C is the norm. Barrow blocks suck. Tried that before others were released and they were warped, left me bleeding and made contact with maybe 3 of the primary VRMs and totally no contact by design with two of the secondary. Again no back plate and worst of all the pi$$ poor design put the placement of the water connections made it impossible to install an Nvlink bridge. I’m running strix 2080Tis, no overvolt as it does nothing for me but make the heat go up. 2130 on the cores. I measure the delta with a virtual sensor in aquasuite that’s a simple equation. GPU core temp less the liquid temp which never passes 30C.
Delta doesn’t have much to do with your loop other than pump pressure which 335L/M I don’t have pressure problems. I also don’t have rad surface area issues which has nothing to do with the Delta, just hotter liquid means hotter core temps. I’m sorry you don’t get good results with your rig but it’s no surprise using inferior blocks. Mine are great.

I can’t touch the OCs I get with an AIO. Won’t even hold up to an AVX workload at stock. Barrow and Phanteks blocks is where your problem is and maybe your loop. Only 3 blocks I’d consider. Optimus, EK Magnitude and Heat Killer IV pro.

Whats the rest of your loop? I’m running 3X D5 pumps. GTR 420, 480XE, 360 SE and GTS 360. I’m about to pull the 480XE and 360SE, leave the HW labs in and add a MORA3 420 to the loop.

I’m not one to post BS. I’ve posted here many times with substantial back up on the GPU blocks, Optimus blocks, EK magnitude block, Barrow POS blocks and HK IV blocks. I have nothing to prove to anyone. My only reason for posting is sharing information. Most of it at my own expense. I ran the Phanteks blocks on my 2080Tis for a short time with no back plate until Heat Killer released blocks. Those got around 15C delta. For GPU blocks less than 15C delta is OK, less than 10C delta is what a good block will provide. Everything under 10 are good blocks and there aren’t many. Good luck with you cooling venture. I hope you can get your components under control.
Liquid metal or thermal paste ? My 2080 with phanteks strix block can go up to 16C delta with very heavy load. Generally 12C when gaming. Depends on overclock, pump speed etc. Your numbers look too good to be true for thermal paste. If you check out VSG's reviews on techpowerup, general trend is 16-18C delta with 60 minutes timespy extreme.

I achieved superb delta with barrow block on vega 64 lc with liquid metal. The gpu pulls around 500W alone with oc and delta was 5-6C in extreme conditions(furmark etc). In comparison my 2080 strix pulls around 260W(305W with max power limit). Problem is cpu though. For some reason my cpu temps aren't better than simple aio coolers. Tried multiple thermal pastes and barrow+phanteks block. 9900kf is just crazy. I'm suspecting the quality control of these chips. Heat transfer is just bad.

Here, I even added in the CPU to run the heat up some more on the loop. Its all about the blocks...I dont use LM on CPU or GPU except for under the IHS on a delidded CPU that I havent done since the 7900X that needed the pigeon poop removed. Just Kryonaught. CPU cooler is EK magnitude with flat cold plate that isnt exactly flat ( just happens to fit the curvature of my IHS better) and Heak Killer Strix 2080Ti blocks with their backplate which makes a big difference. I'll have a look and see if I can find one from when I had the phanteks on there. They ran decently but no back plate. Barrow was a joke. Never even put liquid in them. Test fit and the fit failed miseralbly and to add insult to injury they didnt bother to debur anything and it cut the crap out of my hand from a massive shard sticking out from one of the points where they tapped mounting holes and the shard was even nickel plated so it left for plating like that. I have a post floating around in here somewhere with pics of it. I havent run any optimus GPU blocks but those who have said they got decent results. They dont make them for 2080Tis and Im not going there with the prices the way they are and if I did it would be Strix 3090s and two of them.

2517941


And my crappy TS score...




Edit: TS Extreme Stress

2517942
 

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Kryonaut and a HeatKiller block.
Phanteks blocks are OK, they just don’t have an backplate leaving you with none, which is better than putting the stock one back on as it has zero contact and only insulates keeping heat in. The Heat killer back plate is pretty robust and makes contact via thermal pads on the back of the CPU, memory snd VRMs. I have zero respect for Techpowerup after they published the Optimus Sig V2 as king of the hill then when they got a sample of the EK magnitude named it the new king by 0.10C which is BS. If their delta continues to climb they have some cooling issues. If their overall liquid temp continues to climb they have an inadequate loop. Their 0.10C claim is well within the margin of error and tested on a 9900K. I ran extensive testing on both blocks with HEDT and my conclusion is out of the box they are comparable blocks. I got pretty much identical runs on both through many different scenarios. Biggest PITA with both is getting the TIM spread right and mounts. I run a pair of 2080Tis and the delta stated is fact whether it be TS in an endless loop or luxmark or any other load. The highest I’ve ever seen it spike is 9C but 8C is the norm. Barrow blocks suck. Tried that before others were released and they were warped, left me bleeding and made contact with maybe 3 of the primary VRMs and totally no contact by design with two of the secondary. Again no back plate and worst of all the pi$$ poor design put the placement of the water connections made it impossible to install an Nvlink bridge. I’m running strix 2080Tis, no overvolt as it does nothing for me but make the heat go up. 2130 on the cores. I measure the delta with a virtual sensor in aquasuite that’s a simple equation. GPU core temp less the liquid temp which never passes 30C.
Delta doesn’t have much to do with your loop other than pump pressure which 335L/M I don’t have pressure problems. I also don’t have rad surface area issues which has nothing to do with the Delta, just hotter liquid means hotter core temps. I’m sorry you don’t get good results with your rig but it’s no surprise using inferior blocks. Mine are great.

I can’t touch the OCs I get with an AIO. Won’t even hold up to an AVX workload at stock. Barrow and Phanteks blocks is where your problem is and maybe your loop. Only 3 blocks I’d consider. Optimus, EK Magnitude and Heat Killer IV pro.

Whats the rest of your loop? I’m running 3X D5 pumps. GTR 420, 480XE, 360 SE and GTS 360. I’m about to pull the 480XE and 360SE, leave the HW labs in and add a MORA3 420 to the loop.

I’m not one to post BS. I’ve posted here many times with substantial back up on the GPU blocks, Optimus blocks, EK magnitude block, Barrow POS blocks and HK IV blocks. I have nothing to prove to anyone. My only reason for posting is sharing information. Most of it at my own expense. I ran the Phanteks blocks on my 2080Tis for a short time with no back plate until Heat Killer released blocks. Those got around 15C delta. For GPU blocks less than 15C delta is OK, less than 10C delta is what a good block will provide. Everything under 10 are good blocks and there aren’t many. Good luck with you cooling venture. I hope you can get your components under control.
Well i agree most of what you said. I hope i'm not misunderstood as offensive. I can't freely buy what i like honestly. Shipping and cost too much here so i try to optimize what i can buy best. Phanteks blocks looks good aesthetically but i agree they aren't good. They are less restrictive than average i assume which helps since i'm using only one D5 with EK top and reservoir which is loud at high speeds. My rads and fans are good 1x360 HWLABS GTS, 1x360 EK PE with 6x Noctua A12 fans. Clear coolant with zmt tubing, blocks are pristine clean. Case is Fractal R6 without front door. Airflow is great. Overall my loop is quite good. Annoying part is the cpu heat transfer from die to water is really bad and pump noise at high speeds. No problem dissipating the heat from the loop. My temp sensor is on outlet of the pump which goes directly to the gpu inlet. My measurements are pretty accurate. Right now, it's ok. I can't overclock my cpu as i would like but temps are ok in daily usage with mild overclock. Gpu temps are very good with max oc (2115mhz/16.2gbps stable). System is silent with fixed rpms.(pump running low rpm).

Next time i may do 2xd5 pump and use less restrictive rad instead of GTS 360. Optimus blocks looks amazing if i can afford. I heard optimus blocks are especially great with ryzen cpu's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9,909 ·
Well i agree most of what you said. I hope i'm not misunderstood as offensive. I can't freely buy what i like honestly. Shipping and cost too much here so i try to optimize what i can buy best. Phanteks blocks looks good aesthetically but i agree they aren't good. They are less restrictive than average i assume which helps since i'm using only one D5 with EK top and reservoir which is loud at high speeds. My rads and fans are good 1x360 HWLABS GTS, 1x360 EK PE with 6x Noctua A12 fans. Clear coolant with zmt tubing, blocks are pristine clean. Case is Fractal R6 without front door. Airflow is great. Overall my loop is quite good. Annoying part is the cpu heat transfer from die to water is really bad and pump noise at high speeds. No problem dissipating the heat from the loop. My temp sensor is on outlet of the pump which goes directly to the gpu inlet. My measurements are pretty accurate. Right now, it's ok. I can't overclock my cpu as i would like but temps are ok in daily usage with mild overclock. Gpu temps are very good with max oc (2115mhz/16.2gbps stable). System is silent with fixed rpms.(pump running low rpm).

Next time i may do 2xd5 pump and use less restrictive rad instead of GTS 360. Optimus blocks looks amazing if i can afford. I heard optimus blocks are especially great with ryzen cpu's.
Its either heatkiller new internal rads for that atm. Otherwise wait for optimus rads lol
 

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Well i agree most of what you said. I hope i'm not misunderstood as offensive. I can't freely buy what i like honestly. Shipping and cost too much here so i try to optimize what i can buy best. Phanteks blocks looks good aesthetically but i agree they aren't good. They are less restrictive than average i assume which helps since i'm using only one D5 with EK top and reservoir which is loud at high speeds. My rads and fans are good 1x360 HWLABS GTS, 1x360 EK PE with 6x Noctua A12 fans. Clear coolant with zmt tubing, blocks are pristine clean. Case is Fractal R6 without front door. Airflow is great. Overall my loop is quite good. Annoying part is the cpu heat transfer from die to water is really bad and pump noise at high speeds. No problem dissipating the heat from the loop. My temp sensor is on outlet of the pump which goes directly to the gpu inlet. My measurements are pretty accurate. Right now, it's ok. I can't overclock my cpu as i would like but temps are ok in daily usage with mild overclock. Gpu temps are very good with max oc (2115mhz/16.2gbps stable). System is silent with fixed rpms.(pump running low rpm).

Next time i may do 2xd5 pump and use less restrictive rad instead of GTS 360. Optimus blocks looks amazing if i can afford. I heard optimus blocks are especially great with ryzen cpu's.
I understand budgets restrictions as well as sourcing issues. For the Heat Killer gear I have to pay a premium not only for the hardware but the shipping from Germany. It’s good gear though. Unfortunately it’s astoundingly true that you get what you pay for in the world of high power machines. Optimus makes a decent AMD block as does TechN. I don’t think the GTS 360 is killing you on restriction as much as it just doesn’t have much more capability than an AIO. They are great as add ins to supplement a loop in a tight space but not as a stand alone solution. I have one myself. The restriction on that Isn’t nearly restrictive as the GTR 420 I run in the same loop that’s a double pass. Restriction is more about if you have enough pump power to overcome it and keep a decent flow rate. If I had a single D5 I’d be getting my a$$ handed to me with flow restrictions.

Good luck with your venture!

And yes the Phanteks blocks are easy on the eyes. If they had a back plate that would make a world of difference. I ran them for a few months waiting for the Heat Killer blocks to be ready to ship. The cards on air were just too hot to run in a closed case. I half to leave the door off or it sucked the hot air that was being dumped in my case through the rad making my loop temps higher than it is with the cards having blocks on them and in the loop. Not to mention heating up everything else inside the case. What happened to the good old days of the GPUs blowing the heat out the back? Here’s a pic of when I was running a pair of the Phanteks blocks. I was surprised by the build quality and fit/finish. Definitely top notch in that department. It’s just the back plate thing that killed them and like I said I found no back plate was better than the stock one that didn’t make any contact with anything other than the mounting posts. They actually held heat in. Don’t know what ASUS was thinking with this design.
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So out of curiosity, over the last few days, I've noticed that when my display goes to sleep my GPU temp rises till about 57-58C and stays there until I wake up my display. anyone else notice that? This is a 3090 strix. Ive updated the GPU's etc all that.
 

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I'm sure this has been already been answered too many times to count, but since my my search didn't turn up any specific posts, I guess I have to ask the community anyway.

Can I rotate my new Optimus Foundation (AMD) block top, so that the ports are horizontal, without losing a ton of performance?

Or can I rotate both the top and coldplate within the bracket, to accomplish the same, while still maintaining the same ports to coldplate alignment?

Basically, vertical ports will be much more difficult to plumb efficiently, especially if the bottom (by default) port is meant to function as the inlet.

I know the Optimus product page mentions something about being able to rotate at least the top, but I'm new to watercooling, and want to confirm with the community before "breaking convention".

FWIW, I'm only cooling a 5600X, which doesn't, as far as I recall, feature the same chiplet layout as the 5900/5950X, and may not even benefit from a specific port layout.

Any help is much appreciated!

BTW, can someone confirm that the bottom port is the inlet by default?
 

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FWIW, I'm only cooling a 5600X, which doesn't, as far as I recall, feature the same chiplet layout as the 5900/5950X, and may not even benefit from a specific port layout.

Any help is much appreciated!
Being that you're on a 5600X, it really doesn't make much heat for your orientation to matter much from my experience. I say orient/plumb your system to your heart's content.
 

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I can answer some of it- the inlet is the port without fins visible. I believe it's the bottom on all of the AMD (but only 90%). And as far as the rotating, if you can fit the coldplate sideways, it should be fine to rotate it with the top but the water needs to flow along the fins, not across them. There will be a temperature difference, but it's most likely in the mild single digits range.

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I can answer some of it- the inlet is the port without fins visible. I believe it's the bottom on all of the AMD (but only 90%). And as far as the rotating, if you can fit the coldplate sideways, it should be fine to rotate it with the top but the water needs to flow along the fins, not across them. There will be a temperature difference, but it's most likely in the mild single digits range.
Thanks for confirming!
If I understand you correctly re: flowing along the fins, I should keep the ports parallel with the fins, which requires rotating both block and top.

Although I haven't done it yet, that shouldn't be a problem.
 

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Thanks for confirming!
If I understand you correctly re: flowing along the fins, I should keep the ports parallel with the fins, which requires rotating both block and top.

Although I haven't done it yet, that shouldn't be a problem.
I think what you want to do is take rotate the whole thing within the mount if possible. As stated it wont have much effect on your particular CPU. I hate it when they build blocks like this. Nearly no one comes in on the left or does bottom to top. The bottom to top HK block worked OK on my intel build with a R6E MOBO because I came right out of the top outlet and into the separate VRM cooler. Other than that I prefer in on the right and out on the left but few companies make them that way. Thats one thing I do like about the EK magnitude. Just pop off the cold plate and reverse one piece and the in and out are swapped and I get flow right to left. I know you can do the same with the EK magnitude for AM4 and they are all horizontal, Even the TRX.
If you can flip the Optmus block it would be whats referred to as the "goofy" mount. I know it works with their acrylic intel blocks but they are side to side. You can just take out the 4 screws that holds the rest to the mount and flip it. You can also just turn the Siv V2 upside down to flip ports but then the logo is upside down.
 

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Thanks for confirming!
If I understand you correctly re: flowing along the fins, I should keep the ports parallel with the fins, which requires rotating both block and top.

Although I haven't done it yet, that shouldn't be a problem.
Yep- lined up the way it is in the pic. Let us (well, me) know if you can assemble sideways!
 

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Yep- lined up the way it is in the pic. Let us (well, me) know if you can assemble sideways!
The actual block and top looks square and evenly spaced mount holes. I know looks can be deceiving but if that is in fact the case then its a simple task to go goofy mount. Take out the 4 screws, rotate 90 degrees, put screws back and done. Thats the only pitfall of AMD mounts. Intel you can turn it anyway you want, logo might end up not correctly oriented but that wont matter on how it works. Goofy mount doest work well with all CPUs. The higher the core density and placement of chiplets on AMD make it impossible on some chips to keep a decent cooling scheme without the cold plate being aligned how it needs to be. From what Ive seen the only thing you really have to worry about there is with TRX.

Maybe someone who has one can make measurements of the screws for the block top to the mount screws..
 

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I think what you want to do is take rotate the whole thing within the mount if possible. As stated it wont have much effect on your particular CPU. I hate it when they build blocks like this. Nearly no one comes in on the left or does bottom to top. The bottom to top HK block worked OK on my intel build with a R6E MOBO because I came right out of the top outlet and into the separate VRM cooler. Other than that I prefer in on the right and out on the left but few companies make them that way. Thats one thing I do like about the EK magnitude. Just pop off the cold plate and reverse one piece and the in and out are swapped and I get flow right to left. I know you can do the same with the EK magnitude for AM4 and they are all horizontal, Even the TRX.
If you can flip the Optmus block it would be whats referred to as the "goofy" mount. I know it works with their acrylic intel blocks but they are side to side. You can just take out the 4 screws that holds the rest to the mount and flip it. You can also just turn the Siv V2 upside down to flip ports but then the logo is upside down.
Other than figuring which size hex driver I needed to use to pop off the acrylic top, I had no problems. My Imperial Wera L wrench set didn't include the correct size, but a cheapo set I found in my garage thankfully did. Nonetheless, the size that eventually worked was 3/32", but I have a Wera 3/32" driver and the Wera L wrench set includes one as well, and neither worked, so I'm still confused as to the correct size. Maybe it's 7/64", and I had my 7/64" stored in the 3/32" slot, but whatever.

If you do use a cheap driver, be careful not to strip the heads. I had to go really slowly to maintain a good connection, but didn't have any other issues.

Once rotated, I also had to really tighten the top down on the bracket to seal it back up, but as long as you confirm the seal before assuming you're done, you shouldn't have any problems.

Removing the four phillips head screws to rotate the coldplate was trivial.

I too prefer top to bottom flow, with the inlet on the left (when facing the block), and I'm happy to see manufacturers providing the modularity to accommodate various tube runs.

I think I'll post a pic of my rotated block tomorrow, if only to confirm that I've correctly identified the inlet correctly.
 
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