Sure the crome was the right paint? Might be premixed with clear or I could be wrong. Most likely not the right paint for the application.
Painting a clear coat...running into problems.
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This happened to me with plastikote white engine enamel. The paint looked great but the second i sprayed clear coat on, it basically smudged up the paint job and made parts actually crack.
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The clearcoat was generic.
Originally Posted by Illusion Of Progress I'd like to see what some people have to say about this. I was painting my case and it looked perfect, but when I added clear coat it turned a muddy black, even grey/white in some places. |
The clearcoat was generic.
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Thank you for clarifying this. I figured this to be the case, but wasn't 100% sure exactly what chemicals were different in enamel paint and regular paint.
I also didn't know it had a clear coat mixed into it... interesting..
For those that are interested, this is the best paint I've ever used.
http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote...t=EngineEnamel
Originally Posted by The Fryer engine enamel is an enamel based paint with clear mixed in, you have to buy the enamel clear that matchs for 7.00 to get it to work right. most spraycans are polyuathane base excpt for engine paint. the enamel/ceramic mix is made to resist high temp. polyurathane paint will handle a lot less heat and dull, chip, crack, and peel. if you mix the two togather it can peel, crack, fade, or even give it a nice wrinkle effect. |
I also didn't know it had a clear coat mixed into it... interesting..
For those that are interested, this is the best paint I've ever used.
http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote...t=EngineEnamel
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Unless a paint is a "base coat" there is clear in it. Mind you I said paint, not primer.
Flats, satin and eggshell paints have clear in them, just not as much gloss additive is present. All "Top Coats" have some aspect of clear for durability.
The crackeling that was mentioned is usually when a lacquer base paint is applied over an enamel.
In your case, no pun intended, the metalic chrome effect is an "Single Stage" which was not ment for toping with a clear coat.
Single Stage or Top Coat paint: Contains the top coat addatives that strengthen and protect the pigment.
Dual Stage: A 'base coat' that must be top coated with a protective clear coating.
Clear Coat: Usually a full gloss product, but may be attained in flat, satin or eggshell level gloss. Its intention is to protect and seal the base from UV rays and various other elements like fluids or other contaminates.
A thought...
You could try a few small test parts, wait about 2 weeks and then clear.
If a single stage isn't cleared over in a minimum time frame of usually 15-30min the solvents can become traped in the lower coats and dull out the clear.
Or, the single stage must be allowed to fully dry and with air dry enamel it may take up to 2 weeks before a light scuff to promote adheasion with 800g , tack rag to remove any dust. All before applying a Clear Coat.
If after that it still dulls, it a True Single Stage that should NOT be clear coated.
Another test part, after 2 weeks, try applying a polymer sealer but not a "car wax" to help maintain the gloss and further protect the single stage paint. If it don't screw with the shine you good to go.
I'm a proffesional, please do try this at home with all the appropriate safety gear and proper ventilation.
Originally Posted by Eddie3dfx I also didn't know it had a clear coat mixed into it... interesting.. For those that are interested, this is the best paint I've ever used. http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote...t=EngineEnamel |
Flats, satin and eggshell paints have clear in them, just not as much gloss additive is present. All "Top Coats" have some aspect of clear for durability.
The crackeling that was mentioned is usually when a lacquer base paint is applied over an enamel.
In your case, no pun intended, the metalic chrome effect is an "Single Stage" which was not ment for toping with a clear coat.
Single Stage or Top Coat paint: Contains the top coat addatives that strengthen and protect the pigment.
Dual Stage: A 'base coat' that must be top coated with a protective clear coating.
Clear Coat: Usually a full gloss product, but may be attained in flat, satin or eggshell level gloss. Its intention is to protect and seal the base from UV rays and various other elements like fluids or other contaminates.
A thought...
You could try a few small test parts, wait about 2 weeks and then clear.
If a single stage isn't cleared over in a minimum time frame of usually 15-30min the solvents can become traped in the lower coats and dull out the clear.
Or, the single stage must be allowed to fully dry and with air dry enamel it may take up to 2 weeks before a light scuff to promote adheasion with 800g , tack rag to remove any dust. All before applying a Clear Coat.
If after that it still dulls, it a True Single Stage that should NOT be clear coated.
Another test part, after 2 weeks, try applying a polymer sealer but not a "car wax" to help maintain the gloss and further protect the single stage paint. If it don't screw with the shine you good to go.
I'm a proffesional, please do try this at home with all the appropriate safety gear and proper ventilation.
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he he well only some of us are lucky enough to have all the spray equip setup in our garage.. only in need of a heat booth now..
Originally Posted by The Duke I'm a proffesional, please do try this at home with all the appropriate safety gear and proper ventilation. |
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Actually, the modern acrylic urethane clear coat does not recommend more than 3 coats. Excesssive build can lead to premature dulling that will not polish.
3 coats, wait 2 weeks then sand lightly with 800 and reapply 2-3 more coats for the deep show car finish.
3 coats of air dry acrylic urethane can be finish sanded and polished in as little as 12 hours and most like to be sanded and polished with in 12 to 72 hours preferably 24-72. After 3 days the hardness level makes it more difficult to bring the finish up to a full gloss.
3M's Perfect It II not only polishes without swirl marks, it can remove scratches in plastic, plexi and lexan.
It can also remove scratches in your LCD and foggyness caused by the inappropriate cleaner like amonia based that should never be used on LCDs.
FYI, re; the paint method I mentioned was in reference to automotive type products.
The 5-6 coats The Fryer refered to were the rattle can type. Hope that cleared things up
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Originally Posted by The Fryer if you know someone with an actual comercial car buffer you could paint it, put 5-6 coats of clear on it, wait a week then have them buff it at about 1200 rpm's with a good polishing compound then go over it with a high grade caranuba wax to give it a wet glass look and remove any swirls. |
3 coats, wait 2 weeks then sand lightly with 800 and reapply 2-3 more coats for the deep show car finish.
3 coats of air dry acrylic urethane can be finish sanded and polished in as little as 12 hours and most like to be sanded and polished with in 12 to 72 hours preferably 24-72. After 3 days the hardness level makes it more difficult to bring the finish up to a full gloss.
3M's Perfect It II not only polishes without swirl marks, it can remove scratches in plastic, plexi and lexan.
It can also remove scratches in your LCD and foggyness caused by the inappropriate cleaner like amonia based that should never be used on LCDs.
FYI, re; the paint method I mentioned was in reference to automotive type products.
The 5-6 coats The Fryer refered to were the rattle can type. Hope that cleared things up
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