[clbkdaz]

I know there are a lot of you out there with great painting skills that might be able to help me out here. I have applied all of my color coats and have achieved the right look that I am going for. I am using Dupli-Color Chrome rattle-can paint. After about 3 applications and letting it sit for about a week - the color looked perfect. Almost as if I had chrome dipped the pieces. The problem that I have is that I just did my first piece with the clear coat to protect the paint...and now it looks horrible. It lost all of it's "chrome."

What was a shiny chrome look - has now turned into a grey. It still appears shiny from the clear coat, but it does not look like the "chrome" anymore. It's been about 3 hours since I put the first clear coat on and it still looks grey.

What the heck happened? Any ideas here?

 

[rduffy123]

Sure the crome was the right paint? Might be premixed with clear or I could be wrong. Most likely not the right paint for the application.

 

[Illusion Of Progress]

I'd like to see what some people have to say about this. I was painting my case and it looked perfect, but when I added clear coat it turned a muddy black, even grey/white in some places.

 

[rduffy123]

Well when you add clear coats after you have to research what the color will change to. If your doing it on metal its different then plastic. They should have a metal kit including clear... ill look

oh and to the op, you didnt prime it or sand first did you?

 

[Re-Evolution]

What kind of clear did you use, is it also rattle can?

 

[CattleRustler]

I have had rusto clear ruin rusto gloss on the intellignece case project. but krylon clear was fine. I find it depends on the paint. my new rule is "never clear gloss". its probably what bit you too. lightly sand it with like 800 and rechrome it, and call it done. if you primed it before chroming itll be fine.

 

[The Fryer]

that happens when the two paints dont agree, it sometimes dulls one or crackles it or even make it brittle. norm with Dupli-Color Chrome it has its own clear. read the back of the can and fallow direction for best results. the only time i use a clear is if i am spraying car automotive grade polyurethane. but then you have prime coat, base coat and then clear coat. spray cans are notorious for colors not matching or other issue when clearing.

 

[Eddie3dfx]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Illusion Of Progress I'd like to see what some people have to say about this. I was painting my case and it looked perfect, but when I added clear coat it turned a muddy black, even grey/white in some places.

This happened to me with plastikote white engine enamel. The paint looked great but the second i sprayed clear coat on, it basically smudged up the paint job and made parts actually crack.

The clearcoat was generic.

 

[The Fryer]

engine enamel is an enamel based paint with clear mixed in, you have to buy the enamel clear that matchs for 7.00 to get it to work right. most spraycans are polyuathane base excpt for engine paint. the enamel/ceramic mix is made to resist high temp. polyurathane paint will handle a lot less heat and dull, chip, crack, and peel. if you mix the two togather it can peel, crack, fade, or even give it a nice wrinkle effect.

 

[Eddie3dfx]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Fryer engine enamel is an enamel based paint with clear mixed in, you have to buy the enamel clear that matchs for 7.00 to get it to work right. most spraycans are polyuathane base excpt for engine paint. the enamel/ceramic mix is made to resist high temp. polyurathane paint will handle a lot less heat and dull, chip, crack, and peel. if you mix the two togather it can peel, crack, fade, or even give it a nice wrinkle effect.

Thank you for clarifying this. I figured this to be the case, but wasn't 100% sure exactly what chemicals were different in enamel paint and regular paint.
I also didn't know it had a clear coat mixed into it... interesting..

For those that are interested, this is the best paint I've ever used.

http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote...t=EngineEnamel

 

[The Fryer]

yes engine enamel has a light clear in it, but if you want a more glossy finish you have to make ure and get an enamel clear, and when useing enamel put you coats of color on, let it dry about 15 min between coats, and then clear about 15 min after color is done. otherwise it can cause it to lift.

 

[The Duke]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddie3dfx I also didn't know it had a clear coat mixed into it... interesting.. For those that are interested, this is the best paint I've ever used. http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote...t=EngineEnamel

Unless a paint is a "base coat" there is clear in it. Mind you I said paint, not primer.
Flats, satin and eggshell paints have clear in them, just not as much gloss additive is present. All "Top Coats" have some aspect of clear for durability.

The crackeling that was mentioned is usually when a lacquer base paint is applied over an enamel.

In your case, no pun intended, the metalic chrome effect is an "Single Stage" which was not ment for toping with a clear coat.

Single Stage or Top Coat paint: Contains the top coat addatives that strengthen and protect the pigment.

Dual Stage: A 'base coat' that must be top coated with a protective clear coating.

Clear Coat: Usually a full gloss product, but may be attained in flat, satin or eggshell level gloss. Its intention is to protect and seal the base from UV rays and various other elements like fluids or other contaminates.

A thought...
You could try a few small test parts, wait about 2 weeks and then clear.
If a single stage isn't cleared over in a minimum time frame of usually 15-30min the solvents can become traped in the lower coats and dull out the clear.
Or, the single stage must be allowed to fully dry and with air dry enamel it may take up to 2 weeks before a light scuff to promote adheasion with 800g , tack rag to remove any dust. All before applying a Clear Coat.
If after that it still dulls, it a True Single Stage that should NOT be clear coated.

Another test part, after 2 weeks, try applying a polymer sealer but not a "car wax" to help maintain the gloss and further protect the single stage paint. If it don't screw with the shine you good to go.

I'm a proffesional, please do try this at home with all the appropriate safety gear and proper ventilation.

 

[clbkdaz]

Thanks for all the responses guys. Sorry I couldn't check in last night to see the suggestions.

Update - So after 30 hours of drying - The clear coat turned the chrome into a glossy grey or silver. There is no mirror look to the chrome. It basically looks like I clear-coated a grey case.

Quote:

oh and to the op, you didnt prime it or sand first did you?

Actually - I did Prime and Sand the whole time. Sanded/Wet-Sanded the primer and the color coats. The only layer I did not sand was the last layer of chrome...since it was exactly the right look.

Quote:

What kind of clear did you use, is it also rattle can?

I used Dupli-Color Chrome Paint and Dupli-Color Engine Enamel. I figured with the same brands I wouldn't have this problem. And yes - they were both Rattle-Cans.

Quote:

I have had rusto clear ruin rusto gloss on the intellignece case project. but krylon clear was fine. I find it depends on the paint. my new rule is "never clear gloss". its probably what bit you too. lightly sand it with like 800 and rechrome it, and call it done. if you primed it before chroming itll be fine.

The only problem I have with leaving the color coat as the final application is that for some reason the Chrome Paint is somewhat...well for lack of a better word...flakey. After a full week of drying - if I rub the panel I painted - I get a slight grey streak on my finger - yet the finish doen't appear to be affected.

I have no problem stripping the clear down and reapplying a chrome layer...but do you have any suggestions for protecting it?

 

[The Fryer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Duke I'm a proffesional, please do try this at home with all the appropriate safety gear and proper ventilation.

he he well only some of us are lucky enough to have all the spray equip setup in our garage.. only in need of a heat booth now..

 

[clbkdaz]

Well - After further inspection...It appears that I am going to have to scrap this Chrome Idea I have going. Apparently - the chrome paint itself is not all it's cracked up to be.

I've been checking all of the pieces that have been painted already...all of which have been dry now for nearly 2 weeks with no clear coat applied. If I run my finger across the paint with a little bit of pressure - the chrome finish lifts on to my finger and leaves a glossy greyish/silver behind. I can only make the assumption here that the horrible look after clear-coat is going to be the result of this in some fashion.

My next choice is to go for a silver - and then clear coat that to a mirror finish. How that sound?

 

[The Fryer]

if you know someone with an actual comercial car buffer you could paint it, put 5-6 coats of clear on it, wait a week then have them buff it at about 1200 rpm's with a good polishing compound then go over it with a high grade caranuba wax to give it a wet glass look and remove any swirls.

 

[SmasherBasher]

If you read the can, it most likely says "Not recommended for use with clear coat"

 

[The Duke]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Fryer if you know someone with an actual comercial car buffer you could paint it, put 5-6 coats of clear on it, wait a week then have them buff it at about 1200 rpm's with a good polishing compound then go over it with a high grade caranuba wax to give it a wet glass look and remove any swirls.

Actually, the modern acrylic urethane clear coat does not recommend more than 3 coats. Excesssive build can lead to premature dulling that will not polish.
3 coats, wait 2 weeks then sand lightly with 800 and reapply 2-3 more coats for the deep show car finish.
3 coats of air dry acrylic urethane can be finish sanded and polished in as little as 12 hours and most like to be sanded and polished with in 12 to 72 hours preferably 24-72. After 3 days the hardness level makes it more difficult to bring the finish up to a full gloss.

3M's Perfect It II not only polishes without swirl marks, it can remove scratches in plastic, plexi and lexan.
It can also remove scratches in your LCD and foggyness caused by the inappropriate cleaner like amonia based that should never be used on LCDs.

FYI, re; the paint method I mentioned was in reference to automotive type products.
The 5-6 coats The Fryer refered to were the rattle can type. Hope that cleared things up

 

[SporkofdooM]

I remember reading somewhere in OCN about another member's similar experience with chrome paint.

I found this on another forum via google...

Quote:

Sounds like yours still isn't curing all the way before the thinners in the top coat redisolve the bottom layer.... Try placing your freshly chromed piece in a large box (with a vent hole or two) with a 40 watt light. The lightbulb will heat the box, and cure the paint faster. Make sure the box isn't getting too hot (about 100f degrees is good) every hour or so the first day...if it is, use a smaller light bulb, or cut a couple more air holes... One ghetto paint curing chamber. Then when you go to spray the clear, just give it a quick dusting of the clear coat. Let dry, dust it, let dry...etc. Build up layers of the clear coat so that not much thinner is sprayed onto the surface at one time. Patience really pays off here. After you're sure that all the chrome paint is well covered, then you can give it a good coat to bring up some gloss. That should help alot.

 

[The Fryer]

wow can not say i have ever tryed that.. sounds like a mod... hmmm. home made bake booth... naaa my luck i would want it hotter to cure faster and burn something down... he he