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Permanent Insulation Options?

1943 Views 12 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Hephasteus
I want to run a Computer sub-zero 24/7... what would the best way to insulate be.

I have art eraser dielectric grease and neoprene... I'm not sure that would be ok for long term use?

How about liquid plastic/rubber/waterproofing materials... would they be ok at sub-zero?

How about a very flexible BASF brand caulk?
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
I assume your running phase? Is it a prebuilt or custom job?

Neoprene will last a very long time. I allways used neoprene and dielectric grease on my phase setups. On my machIIgt I used dielectric grease as well as well as the seal string which works great and ran it all 24/7.
Quote:

Originally Posted by MADMAX22 View Post
I assume your running phase?
I Well right now it is a converted window ac waterchiller... but it is sub-zero.

I am planning to build or have built ... a direct die chiller from new parts or from a waterchiller from home depot.. that will fit in a computer case.

I am looking for a builder for this setup... please pm suggestions.

I had a condensation issue already so for now I am running my chiller at ambient.

Also... what is the difference between phase change, direct die, vaporchill & ss... or is there one? I'm still trying to get up to speed on this... I am hooked.

Already had my i7 920 @ 4.3ghz and prime95 stable for bout 1/2 hour... didn't want to go longer due to condensation.

Sorry for posting this in the phase section... but I figured this is the place where I would get the best answers and I will be running phase soon.
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Quote:


Originally Posted by MADMAX22
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On my machIIgt I used dielectric grease as well as well as the seal string which works great and ran it all 24/7.

What is the seal string?
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My 24/7 insulation is dielectric grease in the socket, liquid electical tape around the socket and behind the board, and then neoprene. Grease and rubber eraser should work too.
wow it looks like i have some confusion to clear up.

Quote:


Originally Posted by overclocker333
View Post

Also... what is the difference between phase change, direct die, vaporchill & ss... or is there one? I'm still trying to get up to speed on this... I am hooked.

phase change is the change between basically energy forums. from greatest to least. plasma-gas-liquid-solid-bose Einstein condensates. when changing the phase materials either gain or lose energy(heat).

people generally refer to direct die and single stage as the same thing. generally stating its just a phase unit that cools the cpu directly. kinda self explanatory kinda thing for direct die. ss(single stage) means it only has 1 stage(compressor) whal cascades and auto cascades have multiple stages(multiple compressors/ ect)

and vapochill is just a retail phase manufacture, there units are junk nowadays, only tuned for 200watts. they need to be re tuned to handle a quad or even a high overclocked dual core.

btw geting condensation on the evaporator of your unit is fine. for a water chiller, you just don't want condensation building up in your pc which you shouldn't if your water is at ambient(kinda defeats the purpose of phase though).

as for insulating i would check out these guides. http://www.overclock.net/peltiers-te...-mobo-tec.html
and there is one more i need to find, its nearly imposable to find anything on this forum lol.
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I suggest using vasoline in the socket instead of dielectric grease. It's much easier to clean (hair dryer and a little tilt to the motherboard has it seaping out of the socket like new), and use some kneaded rubber and a layer of neoprene/armaflex will be enough.

BTW I wouldn't call the vapochill junk as a lot of quads are very low wattage now. I've even taken my i7 965 to 5.1ghz with this so called junk vapochill you speak of.
Quote:

Originally Posted by NCspecV81 View Post
BTW I wouldn't call the vapochill junk as a lot of quads are very low wattage now. I've even taken my i7 965 to 5.1ghz with this so called junk vapochill you speak of.
it' not that the vapochill is "junk". it actualy holds a very low temp. up to 15c colder then the cooler express model at the same wattage. plus the quality of the unit is rather good. the problem with it being under tuned is. warmer proc=wamer gas in the suction line= warmer compressor=more ware on the compressor= an early death.

now the reason why i called it "junk" is because i rely doubt overclocker333 will want to go with a vapochill for this reason. it'll need to be retuned adding more price and hasle when a builder can build somthing a little beter for cheaper.
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2
Quote:


Originally Posted by d3str0y3r0fn00bs
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wow it looks like i have some confusion to clear up.

phase change is the change between basically energy forums. from greatest to least. plasma-gas-liquid-solid-bose Einstein condensates. when changing the phase materials either gain or lose energy(heat).

people generally refer to direct die and single stage as the same thing. generally stating its just a phase unit that cools the cpu directly. kinda self explanatory kinda thing for direct die. ss(single stage) means it only has 1 stage(compressor) whal cascades and auto cascades have multiple stages(multiple compressors/ ect)

and vapochill is just a retail phase manufacture, there units are junk nowadays, only tuned for 200watts. they need to be re tuned to handle a quad or even a high overclocked dual core.

btw geting condensation on the evaporator of your unit is fine. for a water chiller, you just don't want condensation building up in your pc which you shouldn't if your water is at ambient(kinda defeats the purpose of phase though).

as for insulating i would check out these guides. http://www.overclock.net/peltiers-te...-mobo-tec.html
and there is one more i need to find, its nearly imposable to find anything on this forum lol.

Ever find that other link?

Quote:


Originally Posted by NCspecV81
View Post

I suggest using vasoline in the socket instead of dielectric grease. It's much easier to clean (hair dryer and a little tilt to the motherboard has it seaping out of the socket like new), and use some kneaded rubber and a layer of neoprene/armaflex will be enough.

BTW I wouldn't call the vapochill junk as a lot of quads are very low wattage now. I've even taken my i7 965 to 5.1ghz with this so called junk vapochill you speak of.

I have read to use artist's eraser to insulate around the socket, what about using non-hardening molding clay or plumber's putty? Also, I would need to place neoprene on top of this? Is there any difference between dielectric greese and vasoline? I assume it is just needed to push the air out of the socket area.

Thanks
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Quote:


Originally Posted by utnorris
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Ever find that other link?

I have read to use artist's eraser to insulate around the socket, what about using non-hardening molding clay or plumber's putty? Also, I would need to place neoprene on top of this? Is there any difference between dielectric greese and vasoline? I assume it is just needed to push the air out of the socket area.

Thanks

Vasoline comes off easier.

I would 1/4" armaflex with adheisive backing on top of the artist eraser... do not use the clay.. the moldable rubber is amazing!!!

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...=316685&page=2

Can I post the above link... I don't want to get banned so tell me fast!

Edit: I just read the rules to be sure... I saw nothing aobut posting links to other forums not being allowed and the other forums allow it.. so I guess it's ok?
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LOL, funny, I am on that site too. Drew is awesome and very helpful. You will also see that I commented on that exact thread too. Anyway, thanks for the answer.
Quote:

Originally Posted by utnorris View Post
LOL, funny, I am on that site too. Drew is awesome and very helpful. You will also see that I commented on that exact thread too. Anyway, thanks for the answer.
ya... thanks for your help on my chiller!
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Quote:


Originally Posted by overclocker333
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I want to run a Computer sub-zero 24/7... what would the best way to insulate be.

I have art eraser dielectric grease and neoprene... I'm not sure that would be ok for long term use?

How about liquid plastic/rubber/waterproofing materials... would they be ok at sub-zero?

How about a very flexible BASF brand caulk?

How about this kind of stuff?
http://www.eaglecoatings.net/
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