Overclock.net banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,543 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I lost my chance on going phase, but I still want to go with lower temperatures. I'll be going with a custom watercooling setup with either a double or a triple radiator.

Can anyone give me some advice? I've read a few of the guides and the only things worrying me are condensation problems and electrical shock.

Could somebody make me a TEC setup? (Must ship to Canada)

Please make it the best "bang for the buck". I don't want anything too expensive, because I'll be investing ~$350.00 CAD on my water cooling.

What are your temperatures with your setups? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,087 Posts
welcome to the TEC club! I just ordered my Peltiers from ebay and am planning on going the air cooled route.

You say you just invested 350$ on a water cooling system? hook it up to the TECs and let the CPU freeze!

I hear http://frozencpu.com has some good deals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Ya, go with the Danger Den stuff from dangerdenstore.com . You can get the Black ice Extremes for the cheap, the blocks are very nice, get the TDXes, they Perform right with the Apogees. Get A DC powered pump with the Molex connecters. And always go with 1/2 ID tubing. Links here

Pump
radiators
2 or (3?) of these will be NICE
Block
I think this is your socket
Tygon Tubing
Get arctic silver 5
I always liked reservoirs like this

Good luck with your water cooling, i was going to go water, till i lost the desire to overclock.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,809 Posts
You will most likely want a triple rad, or equivelant. TEC's put out TONS of heat on the hot side, they are actually very inneficient devices when you do the math... but hey they have a good enough temp drop for us to use! If you really want good temps, get the Thirmochill pa120.3 rad, a switech storm block, a mcp655 pump, and a 400w + tec.

Thats the setup i would get if i were you, or had the money to rebuild my wc setup. Good luck on the tec cooling!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,543 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I was thinking of a dual heatercore, swiftech apogee, the mcp665 pump and a 400 watt tec.

What kind of power supply would I need to use that 400 watt tec btw?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,095 Posts
Quote:

Originally Posted by ****erfx
Those cost a good buck though. Unless if you can find me a good one.

he said auxilary, not specialized...auxilary just means..."another"

Get a decent 12v supply, and run the pelt at 1/2 power.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,543 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Quote:


Originally Posted by Sideburns

he said auxilary, not specialized...auxilary just means..."another"

Get a decent 12v supply, and run the pelt at 1/2 power.

I'm TEC-noob, how do you run something at 1/2 power?!?!?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,169 Posts
Firstly the biggest problem is getting a water block to match up with the large size of the 437 watt modules. They are close to 60x60mm so the standard water block will not be large enough to cover the entire module. I had this issue for too long and ended up resolving it with a Swiftech block that was designed for a 226 watt module and modded it to suit. It was a bit of a challenge but seems to perform well. Depending on voltage used for the powering of the module, Vcore and your cooling capacity temps are going to vary largely. Getting the pressure needed between the Cold plate-peltier module and water block is also important. You need a very efficient cooling system that can cool at least 4 computers well to think about playing with large modules. Think about it, the CPU itself overclocked may produce 150 watts of heat, plus the 437 watt peltier running at maybe 300 watts, there is 450 watts of heat straight away. It all adds up very quickly and the heat needs to be dealt with accordingly. The beauty of peltiers is you can control your input voltage which in tern will change the amount of pumping the pelter itself can do. The 437 watter can run on 24 Volts but at that maximum the module will be very warm indeed so by reducing the V supplied by a around a quarter makes things a little more efficient.

Have a read through the various threads and you will get a few ideas on what you need to do. After plenty of time and fun I have finally got things sorted out (to a point) and have a very reliable peltier cooled system that can be used with relative ease on many different machines. I run 15 Volts with the 437 watter and can achieve load temps anywhere in-between -15 to about -5 C. Different CPU's run at different temps of course and Vcore is a large contributor to the heat. Having a cooler CPU means you can effectively run less voltage at times and achieve the same clocks so you can push further MHz and Vcore wise.

Condensation is not an issue if installed properly. The proofing is easy to do and takes no time at all. You could easily get away with only filling the socket with dielectric grease and not the motherboard at all. It all depends on how cold you go and your climate. If it is humid then plenty of condensation proofing is necessary.

A little test for condensation- get a can of Coke out of a cold fridge and sit it on your computer desk. How much condensation is on the outside of the can running on to the desk. Try it a different times of the day or even year. There is a massive difference for us in Australia as the climate where I live has 40C (104 F) difference in temperature between Summer and Winter. I need to have adequate condensation proofing. You may not, some don't even need to run grease in the socket but then run the risk of pin rot which I have also had after a 4 month constant freezing of the processor.

For your power supply build your own which you can find in this thread. Reliable and easy to build. You could run 5\\10\\15\\20 or 25 Volts with different builds. It is a pity you are in Canada as xie67 has some very good radiators for sale which you can view in his thread here. I use one and it is very large and efficient indeed
You may be able to work something out.

It is not hard so take your time with the build and enjoy


Pinhead hopefully will add to this thread for some added help as he has experience with the larger modules also.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,543 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I took a quick look though the stickies. What kind of Peltier would you recommend with a Prescott running at 1.5V? Is the MCW5002-775T by swiftech sufficient enough to keep my prescott on low temperatures? Or is it better to go with an apogee and buy a tec separately? How do you lower the voltage input on your TEC?

Thank you very much!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,169 Posts
The MCW5002-775T is what I have modded to suit the 60x60mm 437 watt module. It doesn't fit perfectly with all of the nuts you can screw down with the smaller 226 watt module as it is 50x50mm. Have a look at the pics and you can see the water block, cold plate and 437 watt module. I overcame the no nut issue with some adhesive thermal paste to hold the entire unit together (block-peltier-cold plate) and it works very well. I have also got the water block in the workshop to get 2 threads cut to increase water flow, 2 in 2 out.
You lower the voltage input by building the supplies differently. 2 PSU's will give you 10 volts as they are 5 volts each. You are just adding more power supplies like adding batteries together for your torch.




 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,543 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
How did you "mod" the MCW5002-775T to fit the 437 watt module? Will the 226 watt be worthwhile?

That is some crazy direct cpu die action there. I love your insulation =D
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,169 Posts
The 226 watter is smaller, you can see in the pic there is holes in the cold plate so it clamps it all down. The 437 is too big for that so I hold it together with a little adhesive thermal paste. I will dig out some pics or get some of the 226 watter and the 437 side by side for you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,871 Posts
Well after tuchan's advice all I can offer is.

Component selection is of the utmost priority. Decide what you wish to achieve first, then select components to suit.

My recent profile rig setup required some effective cooling for the onset of the northern australian hot hummid summer. Not really needing to go for sub-zero temps for mega overclocks but just to keep the CPU temps down when running in the high 40's with insane relative hummidity levels. I went the way of a 226W peltier with a single dedicated PSU (27A on the +12v) supplying +12v to the unit.

In what ever setup you choose you need to be looking at high flow low potential pressure drop waterblocks. Combine that with a very efficient large cross sectional area radiator (love my large copper tube & fin units).

As for the insulation problem..following the excellent home test method with the coke can, this will dictate the degree of insulation needed. Dielectric grease in the CPU socket and a good coating of PCB safe lacquer around the socket and over the greater part of the underside of the motherboard will see you set. I utilised vaseline for around the CPU socket (works a treat).
A nice solid neophrene pad direct onto the motherboard cut to fit the socket, then build up some layers with armaflex insulation ( i like the 9mm thick stuff) it is the same type of material used in the insulation of hot water copper pipes.

A bit of a log on my latest creation can be seen here.. http://www.overclock.net/peltiers-te...er-action.html

Be prepared to experiment outside the square a little but still adhere to the law's of physics and you should have some fun.

Remember to decide first what you wish to achieve as eveyones need's and resources differ from the next..
 
  • Rep+
Reactions: Wankerfx and tuchan

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,543 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Nice log you got there. I have some components in mind for my TEC setup.

How well would a Swiftech Apogee, MCP665 pump, 1/2 inch tubing, 226 watt TEC do with an ambient of 22C?

Tuchan mentioned moding the TEC to fit the waterblock. How would you do this? Is there any way so that when you push the power button on your CPU, the water cooling and TEC turn on at the same time? Thanks.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top