Portal Powermac G5 Mod
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You can try reseating your waterblock to make the temp on Core2 drop. However, I doubt it'll help. This sounds like the classic Ivy Bridge crappy TIM that Intel has made Ivy Bridge so famous for. Have you read about this? If not, here's a quick run down:
Ivy Bridge chips use TIM between the core itself and the heatspreader. Nearly all other chips have been soldered directly to the heatspreader. Intel did a crappy job applying TIM properly between the core and the heatspreader. The only two ways of fixing it are to lower your OC (deal with it) or delidding it. Basically, delidding is when you pull the heatspreader off, apply your own TIM, and then reattach the heatspreader. It's dangerous, but by all accounts it's been well more than worth the effort if you need the power.
Ivy Bridge chips use TIM between the core itself and the heatspreader. Nearly all other chips have been soldered directly to the heatspreader. Intel did a crappy job applying TIM properly between the core and the heatspreader. The only two ways of fixing it are to lower your OC (deal with it) or delidding it. Basically, delidding is when you pull the heatspreader off, apply your own TIM, and then reattach the heatspreader. It's dangerous, but by all accounts it's been well more than worth the effort if you need the power.
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Quote:
Thanks. I am thinking about delidding and I've done a bunch of research on it lately. I just don't know what i'd do if I broke my CPU. I'll reseat my waterblock and reapply TIM and see what I getOriginally Posted by victorzamora
You can try reseating your waterblock to make the temp on Core2 drop. However, I doubt it'll help. This sounds like the classic Ivy Bridge crappy TIM that Intel has made Ivy Bridge so famous for. Have you read about this? If not, here's a quick run down:
Ivy Bridge chips use TIM between the core itself and the heatspreader. Nearly all other chips have been soldered directly to the heatspreader. Intel did a crappy job applying TIM properly between the core and the heatspreader. The only two ways of fixing it are to lower your OC (deal with it) or delidding it. Basically, delidding is when you pull the heatspreader off, apply your own TIM, and then reattach the heatspreader. It's dangerous, but by all accounts it's been well more than worth the effort if you need the power.
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Quote:
![rolleyes.gif]()
Thanks! I'll probably be entering again, but with more caution as to who I'm up against.Originally Posted by sinnedone
Just wanted to say what an awesome looking build this is. I saw it over on the Mod of the month and wanted to stop by.
The colors and the uv lighting really set it off.![thumb.gif]()
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6 Posts
Congrats to you on your nice results!
I have a dead g5 that I've contemplated modding. I'm wondering about a couple things: Paint, (what you elected to use, how you prepped, and how it's holding up), and how long did it take you to do that window? Those panels seem like they'd be nearly impossible to cut through without a water jet. Once again, awesome build, and good luck with MOTM!!
I have a dead g5 that I've contemplated modding. I'm wondering about a couple things: Paint, (what you elected to use, how you prepped, and how it's holding up), and how long did it take you to do that window? Those panels seem like they'd be nearly impossible to cut through without a water jet. Once again, awesome build, and good luck with MOTM!!
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2,460 Posts
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The window? ahhhhh, the window......
I used a tablesaw to cut the long straight sections and did the rounded corners with a holesaw. As for the design, I used a dremel. Yes, it took a long time (4+ hours). I also went through about 20 discs between this and the aperture logo cutout for the PSU
I used rust-olium. It chips off pretty easily, but it looks nice with a few coats. There were some dents that I filled in with putty.Originally Posted by HammerinHank
Congrats to you on your nice results!
I have a dead g5 that I've contemplated modding. I'm wondering about a couple things: Paint, (what you elected to use, how you prepped, and how it's holding up), and how long did it take you to do that window? Those panels seem like they'd be nearly impossible to cut through without a water jet. Once again, awesome build, and good luck with MOTM!!
The window? ahhhhh, the window......
I used a tablesaw to cut the long straight sections and did the rounded corners with a holesaw. As for the design, I used a dremel. Yes, it took a long time (4+ hours). I also went through about 20 discs between this and the aperture logo cutout for the PSU
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803 Posts
how did you attach the window to the side panel might do it to my side panel on my case
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1,789 Posts
Great build sir
![thumb.gif]()
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I noticed that the motherboard tray is upside down, how does this affect the air circulation inside the case? I would like to do something with this case and can find one for $30 in excellent condisiton (I will not be watercooling). My only concern is that hot air rises so if the GPU's are mounted with the fans facing up it will be spilling hot air into the roof of the case. This means I need top mounted exhaust fans otherwise the hot air will just pool in the roof...correct? Also, having the back panel exhaust at the bottom of the case seems counter productive provided that hot air rises. Or did you use the back as an intake and the front fans as exhaust? This is the only way I can make sense of the thermodynamics in the case...
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SLI UPDATE!
I istalled a second 670 (EVGA FTW 2GB) around new years and got the WC stuff all done two weeks ago. Here's the pics!
Ghetto-draining the loop:
Custom SLI bridge:
Leak testing:
I'm curious about the film that has developed on the inside of this fitting. The water looks fine and I can't smell anything, but it's got this yellow tint to it. This part has been under water for 6 months with a silver kill coil. The left one has the film, the right one is new.
I istalled a second 670 (EVGA FTW 2GB) around new years and got the WC stuff all done two weeks ago. Here's the pics!
Ghetto-draining the loop:
Custom SLI bridge:
Leak testing:
I'm curious about the film that has developed on the inside of this fitting. The water looks fine and I can't smell anything, but it's got this yellow tint to it. This part has been under water for 6 months with a silver kill coil. The left one has the film, the right one is new.
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