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Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post

are you sure that the orange ring you took out wasnt the lock ring that holds the shaft in place? the magnets will pretty much hold the fan blade in place, but if you push on the back of the blade some and it pops out that means it was most likely the lock ring.
I'm pretty sure it wasn't the locking ring since if you pay attention to the 2nd picture (outside of the silver shaft that is black, that is the lock ring) I posted it's actually still in place. I also made sure by trying to push the fan to see if it would pop out, and it actually stayed nicely in there.
 

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I came across this thread hoping I could lube my Blademaster R4 fan on my 212+,and already have read I cannot. Really disappointing because the fan is making noise after having it in use for less than a year. Any advice on a fan with similar performance and a serviceable bearing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavy MG View Post

I came across this thread hoping I could lube my Blademaster R4 fan on my 212+,and already have read I cannot. Really disappointing because the fan is making noise after having it in use for less than a year. Any advice on a fan with similar performance and a serviceable bearing?
I'd write to Cooler Master, see if they warranty the fan at all.
 

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Super guide. I've had tons of fans start spinning slow, squeal, start vibrating, etc. I've always just assumed they had died. Though I'd give this a try on a Scythe 1900 rpm slipstream that would hardly turn. Viola! Put about 4 drops of the singer oil in the well and it now blows harder than the other one that is still on my TRUE. Guess I have a project this weekend.

I do have a question though. I tore up the sticker on a Ultra Kaze trying this trick. What can I use to replace it? Contact paper be ok?

Thanks again! Great guide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
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Originally Posted by Brian Wallace View Post

Super guide. I've had tons of fans start spinning slow, squeal, start vibrating, etc. I've always just assumed they had died. Though I'd give this a try on a Scythe 1900 rpm slipstream that would hardly turn. Viola! Put about 4 drops of the singer oil in the well and it now blows harder than the other one that is still on my TRUE. Guess I have a project this weekend.

I do have a question though. I tore up the sticker on a Ultra Kaze trying this trick. What can I use to replace it? Contact paper be ok?

Thanks again! Great guide.
I recommend c-a-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y half-removing the label. That's what I do for all of my fans. If the label is gone, anything that will cover the plug and is removable is OK. Masking tape, for example . . .
 

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After going through and oiling my sleeve fans I think I finally figured out how to get the stickers back without tearing them up. On the couple I did screw up, I used some black vinyl wrap I had from my work. It worked great. Sticks great but can easily be removed. I'm still amazed at how well my Slipstreams are working now. The one, like I said, would hardly turn, even with me turning it. Now after powering off my PC, it takes, literally 30 seconds for it to spin down.
thumb.gif
 

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i oiled all my fans today with blue 3-in-one...now at different speeds two of my yate loon d12sm-12s make a clicking sound. one does it from 0-85% speed then goes away. they do this when spun by hand as well as under their own power. what should i do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Three-in-one is not oil. It is a penetrant mixed with an oil. That may explain why your fans click. You need to drain as much of the stuff out and replace it with stuff that is only oil - no penetrants.

Light machine oil can be had at Wal-Mart: sewing machine oil. Also, heavy oil, the kind you put in your car will work. As a matter of fact, I'd recommend that for a clicking fan. Hopefully the penetrant in the 3-in-one will get lost in it.

While I could believe you could mess up a fan by handling it too roughly, I have difficulty believing you could bung up two fans. I think it's the 3-in-one.
 

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it was my understanding that the blue label 3 in one does not have naptha. I actually had not used the fans in a long time so its possible they were damaged. is there any way to repair them assuming there is a mechanical problem causing the clicking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Check to see if the blades are hitting something. But be careful with the blades. Not that they'll break, but pushing on a blade can bend a shaft, which dooms the fan.

Another thing to try is heavy oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·

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I opened up my Thermalright TY140 since the bearing was starting to grind after 5yrs+ of service. I put a few dops of straight SAE 30 motor oil into the bearing but that actually made things worse, it got louder. So I tried wiping everything clean and applied some synthetic silicon brake lubricant (basically silicon paste) onto the main shaft & the the plastic reservoir in the hub. The silicon grease was too thick which slowed down the fan a lot and it didn't help with noise either.

What oil/grease should I use?? Is SAE30 oil too thin?

BTW, the TY140 has a regular sleeve bearing from the looks of it, there is no rifling like in real "hydro" bearings. Thermalright flat out lied about it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKPolice View Post

I opened up my Thermalright TY140 since the bearing was starting to grind after 5yrs+ of service. I put a few dops of straight SAE 30 motor oil into the bearing but that actually made things worse, it got louder. So I tried wiping everything clean and applied some synthetic silicon brake lubricant (basically silicon paste) onto the main shaft & the the plastic reservoir in the hub. The silicon grease was too thick which slowed down the fan a lot and it didn't help with noise either.

What oil/grease should I use?? Is SAE30 oil too thin?

BTW, the TY140 has a regular sleeve bearing from the looks of it, there is no rifling like in real "hydro" bearings. Thermalright flat out lied about it.
I think SAE30 is thicker than singer oil or and that's all that I used to fix my grinding fan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by HKPolice View Post

I opened up my Thermalright TY140 since the bearing was starting to grind after 5yrs+ of service. I put a few dops of straight SAE 30 motor oil into the bearing but that actually made things worse, it got louder. So I tried wiping everything clean and applied some synthetic silicon brake lubricant (basically silicon paste) onto the main shaft & the the plastic reservoir in the hub. The silicon grease was too thick which slowed down the fan a lot and it didn't help with noise either.

What oil/grease should I use?? Is SAE30 oil too thin?

BTW, the TY140 has a regular sleeve bearing from the looks of it, there is no rifling like in real "hydro" bearings. Thermalright flat out lied about it.
Now that is interesting! Did you ever see what was grinding?
 

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Originally Posted by ehume View Post

Now that is interesting! Did you ever see what was grinding?
Probably the shaft since it is dry. I removed all the grease/oil and I'm going to try using Honda DW1 ATF which has a 40c viscosity of 25 cST. Sewing machine oil has a viscosity of around 13-18 cST @ 40C so hopefully the ATF will be close enough to fit between the bearing & the shaft.



 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Sewing machine oil worked when I tried it. But you believe the shaft is grinding. What's it grinding on, if you have lubricated it? Maybe no amount of lubing will stop the grinding.
 
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