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Discussion Starter #1
I recently installed my custom loop and during installation I took my supremacy Evo apart to replace the jet flow component to the one recommended for my CPU (4770k) and when I screwed it back up, I think I did it too hard and I noticed on the other side at the screw there are these two cones that look like the nail is pushing up against the perspex and maybe deformed it?

I have since gotten pretty bad temps 70+ on 1.2 and higher temps than my h55 from before. So I was wondering if I broke my CPU mount.

Last thing is that I have a massive void in my GPU inlet area, not sure why there is a space. Because of the void, you can literally see the water trickle onto the gpu block. Is there anything I need to do to full up the gpu completely.
 

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Sounds like you have issues with air bubbles more than anything else. Try tipping your rig in a few different directions to clear the air bubbles and get them to your res. If you only have a trickle going into your gpus there is probably air trapped in your pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I tried to take some photos buts did not turn out very well. I have attached a couple.

My temperatures are getting pretty high. Temp are at around 73c with 1.2v @ 4.1Ghz

If it is an incorrect seating of the cpu cooler, what should I do to correct it. Also I opened the block to replace the jet injection thing l2 for 1150 chipset.








 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the reply. I am not sure what I am looking at can you maybe draw my attention to the "copper fins".
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by irongoat View Post

thanks for the reply. I am not sure what I am looking at can you maybe draw my attention to the "copper fins".
I think Moonmanovich means have your waterblock's jet plate like so:



So take off the top of the block and rotate 90 degrees. Then reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh ok then. I will do the swap tomorrow and see how I go. I assume I need to disconnect the tubes after I drain the loop? Or can I get away with not disconnecting the tubes on top...

Also does it matter the orientation of the jet flow relative to the inlet and outlet holes. Currently in my picture it is perpendicular to the holes.

Just trying to work out if there is anything else wrong and also if I can just unscrew the block and just change the bottom or do I need to rotate everything to make sure orientation is correct relative to the inlet and out let holes.

Hope I am making sense, let me know if I am not and I will clarify. Fingers crossed this fixes the problem. =)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by irongoat View Post

Oh ok then. I will do the swap tomorrow and see how I go. I assume I need to disconnect the tubes after I drain the loop? Or can I get away with not disconnecting the tubes on top...

Also does it matter the orientation of the jet flow relative to the inlet and outlet holes. Currently in my picture it is perpendicular to the holes.

Just trying to work out if there is anything else wrong and also if I can just unscrew the block and just change the bottom or do I need to rotate everything to make sure orientation is correct relative to the inlet and out let holes.

Hope I am making sense, let me know if I am not and I will clarify. Fingers crossed this fixes the problem. =)
I wouldn't drain the loop OR disconnect any tubes. Change/Alter any of the steps below to match portions of your configuration I cannot see or am unaware of from your photos.
smile.gif


1) Dismount your CPU block from your motherboard, using the four EK thumbscrews.

2) Raise your block and fittings and tubing up to a high gravity point by laying down your tower, and as high as the slack in your tubing safely allows the higher you move the CPU block/tubing/fittings assembly above all other water filled components the less fluid you will lose.

3) Use a large kitchen bowl or plastic garage tub clean of course, (I use a popcorn bowl)
smile.gif
and rest your CPU block tubing fittings assembly down inside the bowl so it can catch the small volume of coolant when you open the CPU block

4) Remove the cold plate by removing the four hex screws on the shiny bottom, you will lose a little coolant into the bowl.

5) Rotate the coldplate 90degrees so it matches MRTOOSHORT's photo above.

6) Reattach your cold plate in the new orientation

7) clean off old TIM and reapply

8) remount your CPU block fittings tubing assembly in same orientation as before

9) Use a funnel and replace the fluid in your kitchen bowl back into your reservoir or use new fluid if you want

10) Good to go, watch your temps drop way down.
thumb.gif


edit: you will have to rebleed the newly trapped air out of your loop as before.

IMG_4743_zpsfbgwjwlb.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the suggestion. I was thinking through what you said and unfortunately I'll most likely be to drain my loop as my tubing is pretty tight as I wanted a clean look. Will try to work out what I should do. But man take away for me is that I need to rotate the fins so that they are perpendicular to the jet flow slit (which is perpendicular to the two I let and outlet holes, or is that wrong or doesn't matter)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by irongoat View Post

Thanks for the suggestion. I was thinking through what you said and unfortunately I'll most likely be to drain my loop as my tubing is pretty tight as I wanted a clean look. Will try to work out what I should do. But man take away for me is that I need to rotate the fins so that they are perpendicular to the jet flow slit (which is perpendicular to the two I let and outlet holes, or is that wrong or doesn't matter)
Like MrTOOSHORT indicated, the jet plate opening must be perpendicular to the micro-channels of the block.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTOOSHORT View Post

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Have just made the change and the temps are lower at 1.2V max out around 55-60 on prime 95. Are these temps still too high?

For some reason after I refilled my loop with the coolant, it started to foam up like there was soap in the loop. Couldnt get it to stop foaming so I added some vinegar to neutalise it. Seemed to work but now it has little micro bubbles like in the photos below.

I am assuming I need to empty out my loop and flush it out?

I think the coolant is affecting my loop as increased flow rates and fans seems to increase my temps rather than decrease them. I will not have time until next weekend, is it safe to keep using my computer in the mean time?



 

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The "Popcorn Bowl Quick Drain" is still a valid methodology when swapping out jet plates or EK EVO inserts or rotating the cold plate to perpendicular, assuming no other issues are present in your loop.

I've used it many times, even for changing out a single tubing run.

The simple techniques should not go unrecognized.

I should write up a white paper.
tongue.gif
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by irongoat View Post

Have just made the change and the temps are lower at 1.2V max out around 55-60 on prime 95. Are these temps still too high?

For some reason after I refilled my loop with the coolant, it started to foam up like there was soap in the loop. Couldnt get it to stop foaming so I added some vinegar to neutalise it. Seemed to work but now it has little micro bubbles like in the photos below.

I am assuming I need to empty out my loop and flush it out?
Why would you use cheap coolant vs. distilled water? Even high end blue BMW coolant is questionable, but the cheap green stuff? No way, I think tap water would be better than that.

Remove the vinegar from your loop. It won't likely hurt anything over the course of a week but not what you want.

The temps you are reporting are your cpu temps or your liquid temps? Either way they are ok for being full load prime95.
Quote:
Originally Posted by iBruce View Post

The "Popcorn Bowl Quick Drain" is still a valid methodology when swapping out jet plates or EK EVO inserts or rotating the cold plate to perpendicular, assuming no other issues are present in your loop.

I've used it many times, even for changing out a single tubing run.

The simple techniques should not go unrecognized.

I should write up a white paper.
tongue.gif
Please elaborate, popcorn bowl quick drain doesn't mean anything to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the reply. I am actually using distilled water mixed with a little EK lime green pastel concentrate. I added a little of the concentrate to try and identify leaks better with a bit of dye. Was going to clean out all the water and put fresh distilled water with the full mix of EK pastel after I was happy and going to keep it running indefinately (also need to get a new reservoir as I got a dodgy one and it was leaking).

I have been having problems with draining all the water out of my loop. My drain port is out from my pump and under reservoir. The reservoir and tubes leading to the drain port drain, but besides those there is still water in GPU and CPU blocks and both reservoirs. How do I completely remove the water from my entire loop? So I can put fresh distilled water and EK mix in.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi All
Any advice on completely draining my loop I am having problems with getting all the water out through drain port.

I am try to just empty all the water through the drain port with out taking apart any of my components.
 

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It's always very hard to totally remove the liquid from a loop. But if there's still a bit of water in it, it's ok. Unless you had colored coolant and want to change the color. In this case, my suggestion would be to refill it with distilled and flush again. If you do this a few times, you will remove all the colored coolant.

The only other possibility is to dismantle your loop and flush each component.
 
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