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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
So you're probably running IO at 5v, which is outside the 3360's spec. So it may be working, but there's no guarantee it will stay working.

If it fails, either add the level shifters back in, or add a 3.3v regulator to run the microcontroller and drive the 3360's vddio pin.
 

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So you're probably running IO at 5v, which is outside the 3360's spec. So it may be working, but there's no guarantee it will stay working.

If it fails, either add the level shifters back in, or add a 3.3v regulator to run the microcontroller and drive the 3360's vddio pin.
Thanks so much! Do you know if I could use this one chip instead of the four individual level shifters?

The reason I'd like to use one encompassing chip instead of the four, is to minimise voltage routing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Thanks so much! Do you know if I could use this one chip instead of the four individual level shifters?

The reason I'd like to use one encompassing chip instead of the four, is to minimise voltage routing.
Sounds like it should work, though I only skimmed the datasheet, didn't read it in detail. The main thing is that the microcontroller would need to be on port B, and some of the package options are difficult to hand solder. I'd probably go with the TSSOP package.
 

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Hi,

can you go Kickstarter or The 6 Best Alternatives to Kickstarter in 2021 ?

For the ergonomic part, the mice need a (light) silicon-based shape so ppl could make theier own grip and put it on it.

As for the thumb-buttons:
If one could make a "wall" which goes higher then the LMB and between thumbs and LmB-Finger, many buttons could be set there are they do not interfere with both finger, even better if the wall is a little curved out over the thumb-finger. So like a U or V put on the left side, so there can be up to 3 buttons down, 3 in the middle and 3 up in the U or V shape Wall.

As I have also a little RSI I can also tell the full vertical mices are the worst possible. Only for some special hand injuries they are the only cure, else for a healthy or near healthy hand, the variable grade between 25 to 45 is the best.

With a U V shape wall, a screw could be brought in front of the U/V Shape to lift the grad to ones choice.

The thenar (balls of the thumb) must get a very thin plate with a thin silicon-protection and balls of the finger must also have shape in the mouse upper side, not much but enough as all other mices does not have it (I don't understand why this is not implemented today.

If some one know of a material which can easily be formed by a little heat, reshaped and get cold fast then that material could also easily be put on the mice for every one to make it.

Only the surface must be handled by the buyer with piano paint, as it gives 2 benefits: Grip and some ergonomic (which I still do not understand how and why).

Hope my 2 cent thought can help.

Please inform me, if there is an option to buy if it is viable.

One last technical question:

It seems that every sensor make a straight line the moment you REALLY only use your wrist. This should not happen at all, as there is a lot of muscular force to correct that, soooo is it possible to implement more that 2 sensors up to 5 ???? ( 3 in straight line, one on a side and one for the height if some want to mice the mouse in the air)

Best regards
 

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The advantage of a PCB is it's easier to mount everything, and you don't have to connect all your components with a whole bunch of wires. You might prefer using a sensor module for something like a vertical mouse with a very small contact surface, and buttons in a different plane, though you still probably want to mount your switches and rotary encoder with a PCB or prototyping board.
I came across your thread while googling DIY mouse and Hackaday brought me there. I read through from beginning. I'm trying to understand how to utilize the Tindie PMW3360 board along with a Pi Pico. I'm trying to determine which flavor of Python/Micro Python/Circuit Python to start with. I'm a coding idiot other than l think I understand the basic concects of flashing an MCU, especially the use of HID libraries. I'm assuming you're relatively fluent in Arduino and with Teensie 'extensions' - if that's the right term. On the hardware side what other bits might I need to have a functional mouse - aside from the obvious ones of buttons, scroll wheels and possibly LEDs - esthetic issues. Is this as simple as connecting as SPI device and identifying button and wheel connections. Am I barking up wrong tree or not even needing to be in the forrest. Any feedback appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
I came across your thread while googling DIY mouse and Hackaday brought me there. I read through from beginning. I'm trying to understand how to utilize the Tindie PMW3360 board along with a Pi Pico. I'm trying to determine which flavor of Python/Micro Python/Circuit Python to start with. I'm a coding idiot other than l think I understand the basic concects of flashing an MCU, especially the use of HID libraries. I'm assuming you're relatively fluent in Arduino and with Teensie 'extensions' - if that's the right term. On the hardware side what other bits might I need to have a functional mouse - aside from the obvious ones of buttons, scroll wheels and possibly LEDs - esthetic issues. Is this as simple as connecting as SPI device and identifying button and wheel connections. Am I barking up wrong tree or not even needing to be in the forrest. Any feedback appreciated.
Well, most of the additional components you might need are included on those boards, just the rotary encoder, switches, and hardware debouncing if desired. A LED is useful for debugging, especially in situations where breaking to a debugger will interfere with stuff like USB timing.

I'm not super familiar with all the raspberry pi ecosystem, I bought a couple but never got around to doing anything with them.
 
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