I slimmed down the crystal traces to reduce miller effect coupling since I uploaded that picture. In your opinion is it ready to make the pcb?
Here some pictures of my implementation, you can see on the last pictures how I make it more easy to manipulate I just screwed a big standoff on the small one which give me extra grip.Standoffs are useful, but I think less convenient if you have to cut them to length, because they're difficult to hold onto while cutting them. With wood you can cut them off of a piece that's long enough to hold onto easily .
Though if you see some 3.4~3.5mm tall M3 standoffs, let me know.
haha I attached them to the PCB and look from the bottom to correctly align the lens on the hole. I had like 3 sec to correctly align it or it would be too lateDid you mark location then glue them in place individually? Or did you attach them to the PCB and glue them all at once? I think the second option would be easier to get everything aligned, but it also might be a good way to fog up a sensor or lens with CA fumes.
I need to update to a newer version of kicad before I can take a look at it. Are you using 5.1.2?Good catch, I actually copped that on earlier versions but when I redid the design forgot it. I put everything at https://github.com/itsnoteasy/misc/tree/master/mouse8 so any comments would be appreciated if you have the time to spare.
That's why I don't like KiCad, you should give it a try to design spark which is more user friendly in my opinion !i'm using kicad 6.0.0 for some reason. it grabs new kicad files from the repo every day, must be development builds or something. pcb layout editor doesn't work today, there's a bug in the right click menu, i'll try it again tomorrow or this evening when the new build comes.
That's what I thought at first, but as far as I can tell, you can tell the chip which pins to use for the crossbar, and which peripherals you want enabled, but you can't tell it what order to assign things, it always uses the same order.page 96
UART0, UART1, SPI0, SMB0, CP0, CP0A,
CP1, CP1A, SYSCLK, PCA0 (CEX0-2 and
ECI), T0, T1, T2/3/4
Any port pin available for assignment by
the crossbar. This includes P0.0 – P2.3
pins which have their PnSKIP bit set to ‘0’.
The crossbar will always assign UART0
pins to P0.4 and P0.5.
the crossbar is mostly blue so I think you can, it's very flexible.
found another mistake in my pcb, the differential pair routing for usb completely screwed up.
I noticed I had plenty on the WMO and the Zowie PCB so I include it myself on my design. For the path of it every component have a specific thermal signature so you just copy the path of each of them, then you need to connect the vias to your top and bottom ground layer. I also did the same as microsoft and put some silklayer mark on them to differentiate it from via connecting traces.>thermal via
this is the first I have heard of them. I did read a note saying 2 layer boards can carry higher current because the air cools them compared to a trace inside a 4 layer type. since i have decided to abandon rgb to simplify routing and will only use a standard luminosity 3mm led for a power up check, the heat generated will likely be small.
>you can't change the order at all
if you are worried you can use the example on page 97. it would help if you had more examples to copy off but since it is such a rare mcu that is unlikely.
The IC below the microcontroller is a non-inverting buffer used for positive feedback based hardware debouncing(edit: 74HC7541PW). It's honestly a bit overkill. You'd have to hold the switch in an indeterminant state for quite a while for there to be any advantage over just a capacitor. There is a very small potential performance benefit over using two pins on the microcontroller, because it will latch into the correct state on the first edge, you don't get the small amount of variance caused by sampling the pin during a bounce.Indeed, 3366. I won't annoy the guy though. It's not especially important anyway. no pcbs yet here but I did receive the em11b. as I expected they are too large to fit within the case. They probably only suit a large wheel like a finalmouse. mine don't have a proper shaft, just a short round stubby one with a flat screwdriver notch at the end. they were dirt cheap though. what is that large ic with so many pins? an eprom perhaps?
I realized my pcb is also compatible with the wmo but it would take a redesign to achieve intellimouse 1.3 compatibility, which is a shape I have more interest in. I would need a huge hole in the pcb to clear the rear screw. I think I have reached the point where I have to stop feature creep though and just finish it.