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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About 2 weeks ago, my PSU blew up in my Antec 900 (original model). When I went to go put in my new Corsair TX750W, I got fed up with the cable management of the 900, and ended up getting a Cooler Master Storm Scout. I LOVE this case. But there were still a few things I wanted to change.

You may have seen a few of these mods scattered in other threads already, but now that I'm doing a lot more than I originally thought, I figured I should give this build its own thread. And with no further ado:

List of mods that need to be done:
1. Replace original window with new, clear one
2. Open a few cable management holes for even better routing
3. Make a "false floor" to hide all the unused PSU cables
4. Make a terminal block to get rid of all the molex fan connectors
5. Add another fan into the 5.25" drive bay
6. Sleeve individual wires on the PSU
7. Overall extreme cable management

Table on Contents
1. Case is here!
2. The new window
3. Cut bigger hole for 24-pin cable
4. False floor #1
5. Terminal block for fans
6. Case torn apart/beginnings of cable management
7. All pins removed waiting for sleeving to arrive
8. False floor #2
9. New fan ghetto-modded into the drive bay
10. Fan re-done
11. FINISHED
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Got the new case. Sooo much better than the 900 IMO. The black interior, toolless design and handle are awesome.







This is stock. And that's about to change!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First mod: change that window so you can actually see something through it! The tint isn't all that bad, but those slits for fans are jsut an eyesore to me. I don't plan on putting any fans there, so no harm, no foul.

First off, here's the back of the plastic rivets holding the window on



They were incredibly easy to remove and replace. You just have to push down the center, and it de-mushrooms, and pops right out. I used a screwdriver



Then I traced out the pattern on 1/8" acrylic from Home Depot



After about 30 minutes with a Dremel, I've got the outline. I used a cutting wheel to get the shape, and a sanding drum to round off the corners and clean up the edges



Holes drilled, also using the original window as a template



Gotta be careful to drill slowly. I got going a bit fast, and here's the result. Luckily, its small enough to where the lip of the window hides most of the crack



Installed, and about to be riveted. Fits like a glove!



Happy with the results. The entire project took about an hour.





Hope this can help someone, because I tried looking for any projects that had been done like this before I started, and couldn't find anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Next up is a bigger hole at the top right, so I can get that 24-pin ATX cable routed. Not a huge mod, but it's one that makes a huge difference. All I used was a Dremel and cutoff wheel to extend the existing hole, being careful not not hit any rivets

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had a day off, so I got my false bottom built and installed. I used the backing from an old poster frame, a piece of 1x2, and Plasti-Dip

Here's the pieces



Test fitting



Glued and screwed



Test fitting, fits like a glove!



Bondo is one of the greatest inventions of all time



Sanded and ready for painting



Plasti-Dipped!



Installed! I'm pretty happy with it for only a few hours worth of work.





 

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Windows mod actually looks really nice, a lot better than the original. The only thing I wish my case had that it doesn't have is a sideways hard drive like yours, so I can flip it around and bring the cable from behind :/. Nice PSU hide as well, can't do that either lol, dang HD Audio plug -.-.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was wondering about the terminal block mods I had seen before in this thread. After watching tjharlow's videos on youtube, I went out to Home Depot to get supplies, and I finished in like an hour. I've got all 3 fans from the case running off the block, and it works great! It was easier than I though. The rest of the cables are still a mess because I'm waiting till my sleeving gets here, then the whole thing will be done right. Well, here's the pics:



 

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That looks awesome man, I was gonna get one of these cases, but I got a really good deal on an Antec 900 that's headed my way tomorrow.


Love the fake floor idea btw, I've already got mine prepped for my 900.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I realized that I've invested this much time into this case, so why not go all the way? this is going to be the cleanest I've ever made a case with regards to cable management. First step: tear the case apart.







I also switched out the clear rear fan for a black Yate Loon from my last build and got it wired into the terminal block. I decided to sleeve all the fan wires all the way to the motor, so I had to take all the fans off, too.

I wanted to get the unused cables as neatly organized as a could, so they wouldn't be pushing up on the false floor, so after a few zip ties, heres the result:





 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Now for the tedious part: removing all the pins on the 24-pin ATX, 2x PCIe, 8-pin power, and SATA power cables. I used masking tape and sharpie to label all the pins and which ports they go in, so hopefully I won't fry my new PSU. I used the staple method as described HERE and HERE.

Once I got a rhythm going, it went pretty fast, but my fingers are still raw. Took me the entire length of Taxi Driver (you talkin' to me?) to finish.

And the result:



I don't think I'm going to sleeve all the way to the PSU, I don't see the point, especially with the false floor there. I'm going to sleeve back enough to make it behind the mobo tray comfortably, and have the remainder uni-sleeved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After seeing 88EVGAFTW's PSU hider HERE, I decided to re-do mine. I wasn't happy with the Plasti-Dip on cardboard look that my last one gave me. Also, I think the seams were a little obvious.

So, I went to Home Depot, got a cheap piece of sheet metal, and made a new one. I used a Dremel with reinforced cutting wheel to get the shape, and a few scrap pieces of wood, clamps and a hammer to get the bend. Then came a few coats of Plasti-Dip.

I'm very pleased with this one, a lot more so than my last.







 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had a leftover 120mm Yate Loon from my 900, so I figured why not throw it in the new build. The one area that seems to be lacking in airflow is the 5.25" drive bay. Let's fix that

Open bay:



A few zip-ties later, a perfect fit!



And the new wiring to the terminal block

 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by seven9st surfer View Post
I had a leftover 120mm Yate Loon from my 900, so I figured why not throw it in the new build. The one area that seems to be lacking in airflow is the 5.25" drive bay. Let's fix that

Open bay:

A few zip-ties later, a perfect fit!



I used a 140 mm fan in my drive bay and it stays in all by its self just with locking the tool less drive hold down on the side.
LL
 

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Looking great so far! I'm getting a Storm Scout for my LAN PC, and I just might use some of these techniques to make it look killer. Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by r11
View Post

See if you can get someones old antec drive bay thingy.. it works great in there.




hmm, my last case was the 900, and I still have the drive bays... gotta give that a try, thanks!
 

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Remaking the false floor using metal was a good move - looks lot better now

Also, the window extends quite bit to the front of the case thus showing the HD's and the unattractive drive cage - thats OK if that what you like but how about fitting some modder's mesh over that part of window to obstruct those internal parts.
Its just a suggestion and since you have decided to take this project further I thought I will bring it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by EuroFix
View Post

Remaking the false floor using metal was a good move - looks lot better now

Also, the window extends quite bit to the front of the case thus showing the HD's and the unattractive drive cage - thats OK if that what you like but how about fitting some modder's mesh over that part of window to obstruct those internal parts.
Its just a suggestion and since you have decided to take this project further I thought I will bring it up.

I was actually considering the mesh thing. I've heard black sponge pieces do nicely. Here's what I'm thinking about, not sure if it's what you're talking about:

(from Kegger in the Official CM Storm Scout thread)

Quote:


Originally Posted by kegger
View Post

ok got a pic after install. looks like there are no wires but i assure you they are in there. i used that nifty trick with the sponge piece over the hd cage. anyways.............



I actually like having the HDDs visible, especially after I do the sleeving on the power cords.

I might do it for the top cages, tho. So basically the opposite of Kegger's. I don't see the need in being able to read "Cooler Master" 5 times on the locking mechanisms in the drive upper drive cage.

Thanks for the input!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, I took r11's advice and tried the Antec drive bay fan bracket. It's perfect! I just routed the wires from the fan like I had before, and used the original Antec screws to attach it to the right (back) panel.







Let me know what you think!
 
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