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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started out with the Antec 1200 with aircooling and a Q9450 (True 120).

I moved onto a dual loop watercooling rig with the Mountain Mods U2-UFO case and swapped out parts for i7.

And now...









I did not put the fans/radiators/tubing/etc. in it because my gf ran out of patience.

The bottom will consist of two quad radiators (Black Ice SR-1's). This will be done in acrylic. Inspired by the Black Box mod by ryboto (http://www.overclock.net/amd-build-l...x-nsk1300.html). With the help of Syrillian and ira-k.

1. Naked Mountain Mods Case And Running Caseless + New Parts
2. New Parts 2 + Black Ice SR-1's!
3. Cutting and Scoring / Cutting Holes For Fans
4. Project Continued - Case Change and Dremel Work
5. Gluing, Dyeing, Sanding, Dremeling...
6. Gluing and Case Assembly
 

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Heyah, Milky.


That is indeed an ambitious design, and one that when completed will command respect from all that gaze upon it. I imagine those that are fortunate enough to get a gander will look something like this:
/
(or some combination thereof).

Per your request:

Know that you will have a potentially enormous vacuum cleaner as a case. I'm not trying to be an ass, only forthcoming. I realise that the case will most likely sit on a table, but there may be a probability that more dust will be pulled into the case. Bottom-fed airflow works really well, but does have that single potential issue...

...unless the holes on the bottom are exhausts, then.. "oppsies on my part"


You may also want to consider the air-pressure of that chamber and a means to keep it as balanced as possible.

Accessibility: The center chamber is where this will be most important as there are 2 reservoirs (consider ease of filling, bleeding and maintenance) as well as other components? Tilting doors and sliding trays work well to circumvent this particular issue.

Pump location(s)?

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Those radiators will be exhaust. The main issue for me is the intake fans for the radiators. If I put intake fans on that bottom chamber, the hot air expelled from the radiators would just cycle through the case again (I think?).

The pumps are going on acrylic brackets and will be attached upsidedown in the bottom chamber. (the 4 mounts above the radiators)

The two reservoirs in the front will be outside the case as you can see. They will be held from below with a clamp, so if I need to empty them, I can just take off the side door for the middle/bottom chamber and then slide it down. Can you give me an example of a tilting door/sliding tray? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
oh i see. all my case fans will be yate loons (high speed running on low speed). The radiator fans will be san ace h101's (running on low speed). What would you do? I'm thinking of adding some more fans, but there's limited room.

Right now, I'm thinking the dimensions will be somewhere around 24 x 14 x XX. I have to see how big the radiators are first since there are no dimensions listed online yet.

I want to add a triple rad or a dual rad for my sli gpu/nb loop, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to. I also want to make sure there's adequate intake, but I'm having trouble finding ways to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, I need some suggestions here. I'm trying to figure a way to get the bottom chamber for intake. I'm worried that the san ace fans are going to damage the intake fans by making them spin faster than they are going to (even though I'm going to run them all at low speeds).

What do you all think? How tall do you think I should make the case feet to? I'm worried that the exhausts on the bottom won't have enough space to exhaust the air in the case.
LL
LL
 

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Hurro again.

These Case feet from MNPC would probably provide enough clearance. Or you could make your own that could be 1" ~ 1-1/2" tall.

As for intake, perhaps you could mount some high-cfm fans on the sides (like your 2nd image)? It would mean more noise.

Are you opposed to mounting the rads on the sides? One could be intake and the other exhaust.

Note: I tried passive intake on one of my builds, but I would avoid that option. It was "okay" but when I re-designed/re-built the case I changed it to active-intake... much better imho.
 

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This looks remarkably similar to my current project, BlackBox.

If you haven't already, you should check out Syrillian's acrylic projects(as well as other members' projects if you have time
) and both Syrillian's and CyberDruid's acrylic guides.

As for radiator placement, I would do what Syrillian suggested(and what I did in my build)- mount the radiators on the sides of the case and have one rad be intake and the other exhaust.

Personally, I prefer positive case pressure- more intake fans than exhaust. Negative/low case pressure can give better temperatures in a carefully designed case since it most of the air will flow along the shortest/easiest path from the intake to the exhaust. When you have positive case pressure, air enters the case and then spreads out and moves slowly to the exhaust(no focused stream).

The benefit of positive case pressure is that you do not have air leaking through all the joints in your case- air only enters through the intake fans. This is important if you use filters on your intakes- you will get significantly less dust in your case(if you use air filters) with positive case pressure than negative.

Subbed, will be watching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've decided to use 1 1/2" diameter and 2 1/2" tall acrylic rods and cut them for feet.

I'm dead set on exhausting all the radiator air down and outside the case. I'm going to put 4 fans on the side. The fans should all be running at pretty low speed, so I hope there isn't a real problem. I'll prob run the side fans a little higher just in case to even out the air pressure.

I also added a triple radiator to the middle chamber on the back left side since I had empty space there. I will be updating the sketchup picture on this thread tonight probably. I'll also post some pics of the parts that came in the mail.

BTW, everything will be laser cut (besides the mobo tray maybe, I'm going to score and snap it probably and drill the standoff holes), so I gotta pretty much redo the case in adobe illustrator.

and to jpz: I've been thinking of making this case for a while, especially with a angled mobo tray (I hope it works out >.>), and especially when I saw your build log for Black Box. This case is going to be pretty huge though X.X

~86 cm tall
~35.6 cm wide
~60 cm deep
 

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Wow, that's roughly the same size as mine but 50% taller!


What thickness acrylic are you planning to use? Your design might be ok with 1/2"(but that would probably cost $500-$600 for acrylic and weigh close to 150 lbs), but if you are planning to use 1/4" I think you need to add a lot of support.
 

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Where are you using 1/8"? The only places I would consider using acrylic that thin would be the vertical hard drive mounts(assuming that's what those are next to the motherboard), the ?fan plate? on top of the case, and the pump mounts. You could probably get away with 1/8" for the 5.25" bay, but the mount may flex and the drives might wiggle a bit when you push buttons on the drives, etc. You might be able to make a motherboard tray out of 1/8", but it will bend and probably break when you try to install or swap hardware.

The two "shelves" will bend substantially just under their own weight if made from 1/4"- you will need to add a significant amount of support if you want them to be solid.

Are you going to be doing any solvent welding? By the way, I only count 7 cubes on each side for a total of 14. Also... I just noticed there are no cubes in the top back of the case above the motherboard- unless you have some sort of support there, your entire case is going to be very flimsy and you probably won't be able to pick it up or move it.

In short... I am quite worried about the structural integrity of your case. I would hate to see you spend $300+ along with lots of time and effort only to have your case break or fall to pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Most of the mounts for the smaller units are going to be glued together with acrylic glue (the solvent that syrillian uses). I haven't put the new diagram, which includes more acrylic cubes. The largest parts that are in 1/8" will be...

The bottom of the first and second chamber. The third chamber will be 1/4".
The top, back, and sides will be 1/4". I only did this because the bottom two chambers will have an inside wall of 1/4" and then the outer wall of 1/4", which will give the radiator/fans on the sides more support.

The motherboard tray will be 1/4". The hard drive mounts will probably be 1/8". The top back of the case will have 4 cubes in total (thought about that already
).
 

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Do you have all these extra support walls drawn in the sketchup file? It would be a lot quicker and easier for me to look at that. If you are going to do what I think you were trying to describe, then the case should be fairly sturdy.

Also, I would suggest putting the case feet as close to the edges of the base piece with the quad rads as possible. If you put the feet more towards the center of the case, then your base will bend and possibly snap. I am particularly worried because your case is so large and there are 8 large holes in your base panel. My base piece is solid without any holes, and it actually bends quite a bit if I remove one of the case panels to access the insides. All the weight of your computer(and the acrylic) exerts a downward force along the outer edge of the base panel through the walls of your case. If your feet are not directly under the walls, then each foot acts as a fulcrum. The center of the base panel will rise up and the base will become concave-down.
 

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I added some supports under the two shelves just to give you a rough idea- you can play with the shape, size, number, and placement.

Also, you should not rely on any removable/access panels for support. Your case needs to be able to support itself while you install your PC components.

Finally, I suggest that you make heavy use of the component feature in google sketchup. It will be faster and easier to add to and edit your model, and much easier to look around when you can hide components(eraser tool + shift).

Since you are having your parts laser cut, I think you are obligated to add some intricate designs(maybe some etching, too!)

 
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