Overclock.net banner

What case do you think would be 'best' for my watercooling (Budget £170) ?

1 - 20 of 100 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,824 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Some outdated benchmarks from new rig on page 4

hey guys thought I'd share my little case mod for my new watercooling build. With the help of a few from ocn especially charliesHorse55 and fastsite

I ordered my parts and began with preparing the case for my build. I'v had the case for over 3 years now and couldn't really afford to get another so I was kinda stuck with this one. The whole idea of this is maybe it can help someone else and also helps with my new sandy bridge


Anyways here we go, here is the parts I ordered for my new build:

~ Masterkleer 1/2" ID 3/4" Clear Tubing (No Primochill in stock at the time)

~ PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils - UV Red 1/2" OD (ordered wrong size and the red isn't really red, its more pink than red and its orange under uv waste of money) Ordered the blue kink coils instead and made sure I ordered the right size.

~ Silver Coil



~ Scythe Kaze Q 3.5" 4 Channel Fan Controller Black (can use 2 fans on one channel)

~ 6 Zalman ZM-F3 120mm fan for push/pull(got them same price as yate loons)



~ Phobya Balancer 150 Reservoir Black Nickel



~ EK Supreme HF - Full Copper



~ Swiftech MCR320-QP



Thats pretty much all my parts. This is the case I have:



My plan was to attach the 320 rad on top of the case and keep the res outside. Now I'm not really a case modder but I realised how this case, labeled as a 'watercooling ready case' wasn't ideal for what I had planned. So my plan was to mod this case a little for it to accompany all my new parts.

First I stripped the whole case, took the front panel off and made a template of the 320 rad for the top of my case with a bit of cardboard
.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Now the next part obviously was to make the holes, bit of oil and a drill bit for steel did the job. Few youtube videos on how to drill steel helped a lot
.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I spent a lot of time thinking how I can raise the rad from the case, I thought maybe a few brackets will do the trick but I thought maybe I could do it another way. This involved 3 things:

~ 10x M3.5 thread 75mm long screw with nuts and washers
~ Meter long 1mm thick steel tube M4 ID
~ 10x 50mm Spring coils

I made all the measurements and continued:

I used my trusted hack saw and cut the meter long steel tube into 10 smaller bits measuring at 35mm.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I was left with this:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Everything was going on track, im sure you have some idea as to what im planning. The idea is to attach the rad to the case like a waterblock on a pcb but the only difference would be that im using the the steel tube like a washer only longer.

Now I needed to make a hole on the back to accompany the tubing from the rad into the case, There is two precut holes for watercooling but it was obviously too low. I used a 25mm holesaw with mandrel and worked perfectly. Drilled one more up and drilled another below the precut holes just in case i want to use it for something else



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Couple of 25 mm grommets, simple but yet so effective



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Tubing fits well not too loose or too tight.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I'v been looking around at some cases and especially them sexy cm cases. One thing i noticed im missing is that cpu cut-out for easy access to heatsink/waterblock without removing the motherboard. I definetly think that would be handy. I proceeded with all the measurements and making sure that I dont get rid of the holes that is used to attach the motherboard. As i made plans for the cpu cut-out on the case I thought maybe some other holes would help for cable management as it can help with case flow and look better


I used a dremel tool with 1 1/2 inch cutting wheel reinforced aluminum oxide that did a fantastic job at cutting this steel.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

here it is finshished with all the cuts made. took about an hour



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

made it more neater and safer with some edge trimmings.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

hole for the hard drive bay


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Now here is where I actually mount everything


LOOP ORDER:
RES -- PUMP -- GPU -- CPU -- RAD -- BACK TO RES



first the res just under the psu:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

such a sexy block:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I put the components in so I can have an exact idea on tubing length and where I can place the pump. i took all the components out when leak testing.

So now for the rad:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

From the inside of the case I put in the 75mm M3.5 screw with a washer and held it in place with a tiny nut. I attached the fans on the bottom of the rad thats going to facing the top of case using zip ties. With the 35mm steel tubing and 50mm spring coil and the 25 mm depth of the fan I had roughly 15mm to tighten which was more than enough before making any contact on the fins of the rad.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

here's how it looked finished:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,824 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Now came the part where I used my old mcw60 gpu block on my gtx 460. I got the gainward gtx 460 gs because of the non-reference. After fitting on the block and attaching all the mosfets with sekisui thermal tape. I got a couple of blue chipset coolers that I had and cut the heatsink to size for the VRM. With a little ic diamond and I was ready.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us



I had the fans left over from the chipset coolers and thought why not. Again using the sekisui I attached the fans to the vrm heatsinks. Bit of sleeving and there we go.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Tested to see with a fan controller and works very well if I must say



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Now all that was left was to leak test it out. 24/7 and woohoo no leaks!!!! Put in most of the components and heres how my final water cooling build looks.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

After all components went in cable management was pretty easy if I must say, didnt realise the amount of space between the back of the case and the back cover.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Heres the near complete build of everything, needs finishing touches before I concentrate on the sandybridge.



As you can see a a red light on the cpu indicator suggesting an error. I'v opened another thread about that.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...p8p67-pro.html

but as far as the watercooling build suggests I'v pretty much completed that except for the bubbles in my system lol. Unfortunatly atm I cannot comment on temps or anything because of the f****ing mobo. I will update this thread once my new mobo arrives and will let you know how the sandybridge performs under the new watercooling build.

Stay tuned
and thanks for reading.

peace
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,824 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
14 May 2011

This is my CPU to GPU block Mod, thought i'd share with you guys on this thread.
biggrin.gif


My first card has got the mcw60 on it which you can see in my project build. The second card will have the apogee on it, it's ready to go in my loop.

Here's some pics for you guys, hope you enjoy
biggrin.gif


the stuff I used: sekesui thermal tape, couple of 80mm Zalman F1 fans and some old heatsinks.

Took the original plate off and modded another (spare mcw60 G200 Plate I think) that I had. Heatsink of the Apogee GT slightly bigger than the GPU which is good.

9nLrk.jpg


EZhl1.jpg


nJp0h.jpg


W80tR.jpg


tJXfc.jpg


lFZeY.jpg


zTGHC.jpg


dL9d3.jpg


433ct.jpg


CFsBW.jpg


GYiGz.jpg


If you look at how I did my first card, I attached two 40mm fans, I actually took them off and attached a single 80mm fan. I bought 2 80mm Zalaman F1 fans that are pretty good.

By the way I know it looks ugly as hell, but actually because im using the second slot on my mobo you can't really tell

R6GkD.jpg


Cv0dI.jpg


djs6f.jpg


k3EBZ.jpg


As you can see I had to make a couple of changes. The grey heatsinks were just too high to mount the fan.

Installed the card, redid my entire loop
biggrin.gif


Suprising results.

1st card Swiftech MCW60 idles - 27/26c

2nd card Apogee GT idels - 22/23c

Here are my temps with OCCT for a couple mins.

Hwg5X.jpg


9c difference between the two blocks
wheee.gif
wheee.gif
I would say job well done
thumb.gif
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,824 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirBash;12376997
Looks nice man.
What kind of overclock are you looking for?
thanks, well I'm not so sure yet, i'v seen people on 5ghz with volts around 1.5. At this stage I cant really say, I just gota wait until replacement of mobo arrives.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,824 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Quote:


Originally Posted by charliehorse55
View Post

Looks like a pretty awesome build to me. Nice work mounting the radiator too.

Thanks bro I dont think it would have been possible without your help +REP

Quote:


Originally Posted by tout
View Post

Great job! I like how you mounted the radiator outside of the case, much better cooling than if you had it inside. How come you didn't paint the inside of the case while you were at it?

thanks guys. Just a shame my sandybrigde couldn't be tested. New mobo should be arriving tomorrow.

I so wanted to mod this case, painting the inside, mod the front panel and a few other things, unfortunatly I dont really have a workshop or anything so most mods are done in the living room
. Got kids in the house so duration of build and fumes and everything from the paint wont be ideal. If i did do all the other mods then it would have to be done perfectly and I really didnt have the time.
maybe on my next build.

Hopefully get to see how this chip performs and see what kind of overclock I can get with the gtx 460. If all is well then I would definetly be looking to purchase another 460.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
awesome build and great job, I think once I put my first rig under water I might slightly steal your rad mounting mod
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,824 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amann;12380666
awesome build and great job, I think once I put my first rig under water I might slightly steal your rad mounting mod
wink.gif
Its under copright protection lol im playing. Only bit of advise when doing this make sure ur plan plan and plan some more!! Measurements are key in this mod and obviously take your time. Hopefully you have the same success as me
biggrin.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
I particularly like the rad standoffs with the spring struts. I have some PVC standoffs, but possibly thinking those are much better looking. Good call on the idea. Great work for the rad mount.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,824 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Quote:


Originally Posted by rubix_1011
View Post

I particularly like the rad standoffs with the spring struts. I have some PVC standoffs, but possibly thinking those are much better looking. Good call on the idea. Great work for the rad mount.

I too originally had some pvc standoffs but went to the diy store and found the steel tube which worked perfectly. At 35mm it was very sturdy and perfect.

Btw guys any suggestions on how to effectively get rid of these damn bubbles? The pump is driving me crazy, its unbelievably loud. Its got 2/3 huge bubbles and I think its getting stuck somewhere in the rad.

By the way i dont think I even mentioned it but my lood order is:

RES - PUMP - GPU - CPU - RAD - BACK TO RES.

Thanks guys
 
1 - 20 of 100 Posts
Top