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Discussion Starter #1
About two weeks ago I picked up a wheel mouse optical for a couple dollars at a yard sale. Now, my main mouse is a deathadder, but I wanted something a bit smaller and lighter, with lower DPI, so the WMO fit the bill perfectly. However, to put it lightly, the WMO looks like absolute crap. And the switches on the one I picked up were a bit mushy. So I decided to jazz it up a bit. I know this isn't much for a true modder, but It's fun for me and the end result will be pretty cool, so I hope you guys enjoy!

btw, sorry for the phone pics.

Goals for the project:
New paintjob - Glossy red/black
Replace main switches (right/left click) with omron D2FC-F-7N
Replace cable with something thinner
Puretrak PerfectGlideHD mousefeet

Step 1: Painting
The tools. I had the black spraypaint laying around from when I played warhammer 40k, and I ran to the hardware store to find the other two cans.

Disassembly - took a screwdriver and a lot of prying to get the top off. Didn't break the clips though!

The WMO was dirty as hell, spent a good hour scrubbing everything off of it. With the mouse cleaned, Then I set to work. First was a black basecoat. Messed that up, so I sanded it down and tried again. Messed that up too. Sanded it down, tried again. Finally! But even with this, there were still a few scratches... oh well. Then a tiny bit of red accenting. Decided the mouse buttons would look better in red, so I painted them. Took some of of the design elements from this - gotta give credit where it's due!. http://tankiannam.blogspot.com/2006/12/ms-wheel-mouse-optical-new-paint-job.html
But even with the red accenting, it wasn't enough. The mouse felt empty. I needed something to put on there... A logo. But what?
Obviously this
biggrin.gif



As you can tell, the base coat was flat black. I used label sticker paper to print off a black and white OCN logo and an exacto knife to cut it out. Now for the painting! Took a TON of layers to achieve a nice solid red. Then, to keep the paint from bleeding, I took the acrylic gloss and layered it a bunch of times over the top of the shell. Final shell paint job!




Step 1: Done!

Step 2: Switches
Waiting for the switches to arrive from china. ETA: December 3rd - will post pics when they arrive, and when they're put in place.
EDIT: December 3rd, they're here from china!


2x Omron D2FC-F-7Ns (not the 10m version unfortunately... oh well. I can just pay another $3.55 and resolder if they go bad)
My current soldering iron is too thick for PCBs like this so I'm gonna have to go grab another one from the local electronics store. I'll update when they're installed.
UPDATE:
Bare PCB:

Switch size comparison:

The Soldering station: a very messy workbench haha

Omron 1 mounted and working!

My crappy soldering job (left) vs the manufacturer's (right):

Trimming the unneeded pin on the second omron. First used some standard wire cutters.

Then to get it down flush with the plastic, I used cuticle clippers like this: http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00QCtEDPSJbnkV/Cuticle-Clipper-CC-12-.jpg

Uh oh... damaged the PCB...
UPDATE: 12/09/12

At this point, I ordered a second WMO 1.1a off of ebay for $8. It came 2 days later. I read the guide linked at the bottom of the post, which recommended using a desoldering iron. So I ran to radioshack and picked one up. Used it to desolder the microswitches from the original WMO PCB and put them on the new one.

Workbench part 2: (you can see the old mouse's PCB in the background)

Using the desoldering iron, I have now done this much better soldering job:

Which leads to...

Finally done!
Mounted the finished PCB in the shell...


And closed it up.

The paint looks a lot darker IRL.
Step 2: Done!

Step 3: Cable
It appears that the mouse cable is soldered to the PCB, does anyone have any ideas of how to replace it/what I should replace it with?
EDIT: Idea, courtesy of MrFerrari - Zowie AM cable. Any idea where I could get one?

Step 4: Replace Mouse Feet
Mousefeet arrived today, Friday Nov. 23! Can't wait to see how they'll feel on my QCK heavy.


UPDATE: 12/09/12
Scrubbed down the original feet with 91% isopropyl alcohol to get rid of most of the goo.

Mounted the Puretrak Perfect Glide HDs:

Holy crap these are thick skates. They still glide insanely well and the LOD for this is ridiculous now.

Step 4: Done!

So that's pretty much it. As more stuff comes in, I'll be sure to update.

- eXe

More stuff:
Diogenes5's method of swapping microswitches is on page 5 of this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1216141/swapping-microswitches-for-dummies/40
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, update. With my terrible soldering skills, I managed to damage the copper traces for the right click enough that it doesn't work anymore. left click works fine though. Going to desolder the switches again later so I can use them again.

So I bought a new 1.1a off of eBay for $8, so I can put the switches on that using Diogenes5's method on page 5 of this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1216141/swapping-microswitches-for-dummies/40
I'm Running down to radioshack later to pick up a desoldering iron.

The new mouse came in today... and it's the version with the replaceable cable! I hate the standard WMO cable because it's so ridiculously thick and heavy. Anyone got any tips for replacing the cable?
will this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Razer-DeathAdder-Mouse-Cable-1-8m-Miscrosoft-Mouse-/280758923813?pt=US_Parallel_Serial_PS_2_Cables_Adapters&hash=item415e893225 work? Or does anyone have any suggestions for a cable that's thin and flexible that I can use?

the order of the USB wires on the WMO cable is Black (big), black (small), green, white, red. But the order of the wires on the cable that I linked is black (big), black (small,) white, green, red. Those aren't the same... will they work?
 

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Zowie AMs cable is compatible with IME 3.0, so I think that it could work on the 1.1. The AMs cable is the softest cables I've ever used.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFerrari View Post

Zowie AMs cable is compatible with IME 3.0, so I think that it could work on the 1.1. The AMs cable is the softest cables I've ever used.
I'll look into it. Thanks for the info!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZareliMan View Post

Nice but can't stop thinking that my hand will smell like paint after using it.
I like the switch mod.
Well, the coats of acrylic gloss that I put over the mouse should prevent that (I hope.)

EDIT: Check out the OP! Practically done save for cable!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks!
I would've done something like that but I wanted something that matched my red/black rig. Maybe I'll take that on as my next project!

Update:
Holy crap this mouse is awesome. Been playing CS:S and AVA - two games that require absolute precision. It's awesome. It's super light, the glossiness keeps my hands from sweating, and the mouse buttons feel great. Only thing I don't like is that the cord is annoying. I'll find a zowie AM cord eventually though!
 

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For the majority of my gaming career I only ever used those cheapo Microsoft mouse and everyone I played COD with was stunned at my abilities and more so of my mouse of choice lol, I loved them until I decided to get a RAT 5, but I will still happily use the optical, this mod looks awesome man, thanks for sharing with us!
 

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My 2 Zowie AMs, one in pieces, and the cable installed to my 3.0. I could try to mod a WMO with a AM cable, but I like the stiffer Microsoft cable, so I will probably stick with it.

It all started with me borrowing a old and worn down WMO from a friend. I really liked the shape, it feels good to palm with my small hands and it has good grip due the camber on the sides. I also liked the very low weight and simplicity. I did not however like the switches very much, they are not THAT bad, but it would be nicer with some real Omrons. I went for the D2F-01F because it had some "legacy" with the older Microsoft mice. So I thought that it would be cooler to use that rather than D2FC-F-7N(10M). Knowing that the WMO eol'd and that the scroll will wear out, I thought it just was a smart idea to build my own supply(also got 5 white incoming), and also with the very low price. I payed less for 5 WMOs from china than one Zowie here in Sweden... This thread stands for 100% of my inspiration in swapping the microswitches, without this thread I would just have kept the old switches. Going to get some soldering done later today, and hopefully with good results. I had an idea just to clear coat the normal shell, no paint, just clear coat the shell. My original idea was to use the SteelSeries modded one and just swap the internals as they wore out, but I didn't like that shell at all, so it will just end up as spare internals.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by eXecuution View Post

No prob, man! I'm still looking for a replacement cable for this thing. if you know anyone with a zowie AM that's broken just let me know haha
Have you tried contacting Zowie with a mail? Maybe they would sell you one as a spare part, and maybe they would appreciate that you wanted to use just that cable in your mod.
 

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So... I've changed the switches in one mouse. I failed with the first one I tried to fix
frown.gif
. So far I'm not THAT impressed. The clicks sure are different, but better? nah.. Greasing the scrollwheel and adding hyperglides does a lot more god than swapping the switches. Something I found when opening a couple of mice was that some had all "black dot" switches and others had "brown dot" on mouse 1&2 and black on the scroll. There was quite a different feeling between them, the brown feeling/sounding more like the D2F-01-F and the black more like the D2FC-F-7N. The cable on the new mouse is very stiff, the one on the older was better, but it probably gets better over time. I would not recommend swapping the switches unless you really know what you are doing because it's easy to break the mouse and the difference is not THAT big. But I can recommend hyperglides and lubing the wheel.
 
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