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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I've been going back and forth on this for days now. To start with, here will be my system to gauge power draw:
Proc: i7 930
Mobo: ASUS Sabertooth x58
RAM: 6 gb OCZ 1600 8CL
Cooling: Megahalems w/ 2x CoolerMaster R4 fans
GPU: eVGA 460's in SLI with a 8800 GTS Superclocked for Physx
HDD: 1x 32 gb OCZ SSD (OS), 2x Samsung F1 250gb in RAID 0 (games), 1x Samsung F3 1 TB (mass storage)
Optical: DVD-RW and DVD-ROM, Floppy, and Media card reader
Audio: Creative X-Fi Titanium (non-Fatal1ty)

For PSU, at various times I've decided on Corsair TX750, TX850, and TX950. What would be the correct size for this system. I will be OC'ing the CPU, RAM, and GPUs to as high as they will go while keeping good temps and 24/7 stability. My current goal is 4GHz CPU and true 1600 MHz RAM, though I will go higher if my components allow it comfortably.

I've almost ruled out the TX750 for this system. It's cutting it too close. I've already had one problem with the PSU not being able to keep up with my system previously, so I'm a little hesitant on that.

I also want enough headroom that I'm not pushing my PSU hard. I want to keep it in a comfortable 70-80% usage range, max.

Thanks!
 

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A quality 650W would be fine. Seriously. Or you could use your current power supply.

Skip the Corsair TX series, the Antec TruePower New series is around the same price and performs better and is partially modular.
 

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Actually, a quality 750W would be more than enough. I mean, this system with two GTX 460s with an 8800 GTS as PhysX won't draw that much power (the 460s pull approximately as much power as a GTX 260). Even a high quality 650W could do it.


How much can you spend on a power supply?
 

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1000W easily. It would power everything, give you overclock room, and still have enough left over to keep you at ~75-80% useage. Not to mention you will have enough 6 pin and 8 pin connectors to power everything.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by Cyrious
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1000W easily. It would power everything, give you overclock room, and still have enough left over to keep you at ~75-80% useage. Not to mention you will have enough 6 pin and 8 pin connectors to power everything.

More like 10/40% usage idle/load. At the bottom of the efficiency curve, for a lot of extra money. A quality 650W will put him at 25/80% idle/load, which will give better efficiency while still having lots of room for overhead. And most 650W power supplies will have the connectors he needs, at most he might need a molex->PCIe for the 8800GTS.
 

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460's in SLI has a 600w draw, 8800 gts is nothing (probly 50w) and depending on if you want to overclock ur cpu and whatnot it may add more. I say 750w truepower, if your still weary 850 truepower. But what do I know... I only build systems for a living.
 

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A 1000W power supply would handle this system with three GTX 480s in it.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by Xyphyr
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460's in SLI has a 600w draw, 8800 gts is nothing (probly 50w) and depending on if you want to overclock ur cpu and whatnot it may add more. I say 750w truepower, if your still weary 850 truepower. But what do I know... I only build systems for a living.

600W at the wall, right? I mean, I'm guessing so. If it's 600W at the wall and if the PSU is 80% efficient at the time of that draw, then that's 480W total power draw.

However, one GTX 460 doesn't draw 300W. Those professional review sites use a meter at the wall which is measuring the entire system. Figure in 80-85% efficiency, and then you'll get the actual draw that the system is pulling from the PSU. Always multiply the "at the wall" power draw by .80 for 80%, and .85 for 85%, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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You won't with a 650W.
 

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Originally Posted by firelord84
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Wow, there's actually a lot more response here than what I was expecting. I was leaning 850W myself. I would like to keep it as close to $100 as possible, which is why I chose TX850, Amazon.com: Corsair CMPSU-850TX 850-Watt TX Series 80 Plus Certified Power Supply compatible with Intel Core i7 and Core i5: Electronics. But you think if I OC these cards, the CPU, and the RAM I won't start getting freezes and BSOD when stability-testing the system with a 750W?

As Phaedrus2129 and I are saying: it won't need more than a quality 650W. He recommended the 650W Antec TruePower New in his first post in this thread, and it's an excellent recommendation. It will work, and it'll be all you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well if we're going as low as 650W I could get the 650HX (same price as 850TX). So you guys would recommend the Antec 650 over the Corsair 650HX?
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by firelord84
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Well if we're going as low as 650W I could get the 650HX (same price as 850TX). So you guys would recommend the Antec 650 over the Corsair 650HX?

No, get the Corsair HX650.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by firelord84
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Well if we're going as low as 650W I could get the 650HX (same price as 850TX). So you guys would recommend the Antec 650 over the Corsair 650HX?

Due to the price difference, yes. But the HX650W is more modular than the Antec TP-650, so that is where it wins (at least for me). But for the price, the 650W Antec TruePower New is the better choice; it should probably cost the same as the HX650W.
And it probably would it were just as modular (the TruePower New series is only partially modular).
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by Xyphyr
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460's in SLI has a 600w draw, 8800 gts is nothing (probly 50w) and depending on if you want to overclock ur cpu and whatnot it may add more. I say 750w truepower, if your still weary 850 truepower. But what do I know... I only build systems for a living.

^^this my 5770 and 8600GTS's and i5 750 all on OC dont even make my 750W hit close to its max.....and my i5 is at 4ghz btw
 

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Originally Posted by PCSarge
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^^this my 5770 and 8600GTS's and i5 750 all on OC dont even make my 750W hit close to its max.....and my i5 is at 4ghz btw

Do you know what your power draw at the wall is?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The only reason I'm looking to replace my current PSU is the fact it's a touch loud, and over 3 years old now. My mobo has been acting up for a very long time now (2 years almost), which means I have to leave it on 24/7 (or else risk having to replace yet another dead CR2032 CMOS battery). I plan on this rig lasting me at least another 3 years with 0 modification from the original build. This would put my current PSU near the MTBF, and I don't want to risk it dying and taking components with it.
 

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MTBF is meaningless. Your power supply won't magically burst into flames as soon as it's out of warranty.

I can understand the noise problem though.
 
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