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I was thinking about Aquarium water pumps for use in a liquid cooling system, would this work and how hard would it be to rewire it off of a molex connector? If this is an absolutely horrendous idea, which pumps would you recommend?
 

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I know of this being done... but I have no idea after that.
 

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Whether it works off a Molex header or not depends on the pump itself.

Aquarium pumps, if you're referring to the small, household kind, are probably attached to a power brick. Take a look at the DC output of the power brick, and the amperage.

If the Voltage is at 12V, and the amperage isn't something crazy like 10A or so, yes you can run it on a Molex.
Best to keep it under 5A though.
 

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why not just run it straight to a wall outlet? 1 more plug never hurt anyone! now that i think of it, why not get a bilge pump and run it off of its own generator?!?!?!?!?! sorry... getting carried away but sounds perfectly reasonable as long as you follow what volvo said
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by Volvo
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As far as efficiency goes, don't aquarium pumps move more water?

Crap loads.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by jtypin
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Crap loads.

Exactly.

But you must note.

Using an aquarium pump on a Molex, if it runs on 12V by coincidence, requires cutting of wires, soldering them together, and some heatshrinking.
And a good job must be done so as to ensure you don't run into shorting problems.

If you feel that you are competent enough to do the following, go ahead.
If not, just get a PC pump.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Volvo View Post
As far as efficiency goes, don't aquarium pumps move more water?
Depends on the pump... If you look at and compare the PQ curves, most aquarium pumps are designed for low restriction water circulation duty. I mean, something like an Iwaki MD-20RZ would work well, but they're large, loud, require 110VAC, and you can get similar performance (depending on the pressure drop curve of the loop) from an old DDC-2 or DDC-3.25 with a good top.

OP: Most aquarium pumps worth using require 110VAC input, not 12VDC. Old favorites from water cooling's early days include: the Iwaki MD20-RZ, Danner MAG 3 (though, it tended to leak like a sieve after a while if you didn't modify the impeller housing), Hydor L20/L25/L30/L35, Eheim 1048 & 1250, and there are some PanWorld pumps that were commonly used as well (just can't recall which ones). The thing is that you don't see these pumps used very often anymore because pumps like the DDC and D5, combined with changes in waterblock design, pretty much made them obsolete.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Petra View Post
The thing is that you don't see these pumps used very often anymore because pumps like the DDC and D5, combined with changes in waterblock design, pretty much made them obsolete.
I dunno, I'd say the Eheim 1046 and Jingway DP-1200 are still making their stands in the market, thanks to Aquacomputer (for the Eheim) and EK, Phobya, Alphacool, OCZ, and some others for the Jingway. I still consider these to be VERY good pumps for the money, though the higher-end Aquastreams get really expensive.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Chunky_Chimp View Post
I dunno, I'd say the Eheim 1046 and Jingway DP-1200 are still making their stands in the market, thanks to Aquacomputer (for the Eheim) and EK, Phobya, Alphacool, OCZ, and some others for the Jingway. I still consider these to be VERY good pumps for the money, though the higher-end Aquastreams get really expensive.
Eh, forgot that the Germans are still using modified Eheim pumps... The Jingway pumps are good little pumps, though.
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Petra View Post
Depends on the pump... If you look at and compare the PQ curves, most aquarium pumps are designed for low restriction water circulation duty. I mean, something like an Iwaki MD-20RZ would work well, but they're large, loud, require 110VAC, and you can get similar performance (depending on the pressure drop curve of the loop) from an old DDC-2 or DDC-3.25 with a good top.

OP: Most aquarium pumps worth using require 110VAC input, not 12VDC. Old favorites from water cooling's early days include: the Iwaki MD20-RZ, Danner MAG 3 (though, it tended to leak like a sieve after a while if you didn't modify the impeller housing), Hydor L20/L25/L30/L35, Eheim 1048 & 1250, and there are some PanWorld pumps that were commonly used as well (just can't recall which ones). The thing is that you don't see these pumps used very often anymore because pumps like the DDC and D5, combined with changes in waterblock design, pretty much made them obsolete.
were talking after the adapter if theres no adapter crick then the adapters built into the unit, the way electricity moves you cant run an electrical motor off of ac it has to be dc, so somewhere the conversion happens, ie in the brick adapter or in an adapter in the pump
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnDProb View Post
were talking after the adapter if theres no adapter crick then the adapters built into the unit, the way electricity moves you cant run an electrical motor off of ac it has to be dc, so somewhere the conversion happens, ie in the brick adapter or in an adapter in the pump
You obviously don't know much about AC motors: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_motor
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Chunky_Chimp View Post
I dunno, I'd say the Eheim 1046 and Jingway DP-1200 are still making their stands in the market, thanks to Aquacomputer (for the Eheim) and EK, Phobya, Alphacool, OCZ, and some others for the Jingway. I still consider these to be VERY good pumps for the money, though the higher-end Aquastreams get really expensive.
This. The Eheims are the AK47 of pumps, they just keep on going.
Jingways are especially nice bang for your buck.

The Via Aqua 1300 is nice for low budget builds too
how to silence a via aqua
 

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I use an eheim hpps and is amazing for my rather extremely restrictive loop. Flow rates are slightly better than my 355 with an xspc pump top which is quite impressive imo... and it's completely silent which is a huge plus
 

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Yeah, it's just not practical anymore to bother. If you need a low cost pump, consider one of the Jingway rebrands, even the smaller one will generally have enough pumping power to do ok. Most aquarium pumps are designed for high flow/low pressure and generally a poor match against our high restriction CPU blocks of today. Then there is the whole power switching thing.

Knowing my poor memory, I'd forget to turn the pump on and produce an old faithful in my case...
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by Martinm210
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Yeah, it's just not practical anymore to bother. If you need a low cost pump, consider one of the Jingway rebrands, even the smaller one will generally have enough pumping power to do ok. Most aquarium pumps are designed for high flow/low pressure and generally a poor match against our high restriction CPU blocks of today. Then there is the whole power switching thing.

Knowing my poor memory, I'd forget to turn the pump on and produce an old faithful in my case...


This. If you are running a cpu only loop, with low restriction block and rad, then it'll be fine. If you add more blocks, or have a more restrictive block and rad, then an aquarium pump will struggle. They are not really designed to push against much obstruction and will burn out or fail in another way, quicker than normal. You may as well just get either a Jingway rebrand (EK, Dangerden etc) or a Laing pump designed for the use you want.
 
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