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Discussion Starter #1
Im about to start looking for a pump for my water cooler. Should i get a 4 plug or a two plug pump, and how do you use a two plug pump with a resivoir? Any ideas on what to get?
 

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All I have seen are 1-inlet, 1-outlet pumps. If you want to use a res, you can go:

CPU Block --> Reservoir --> Pump --> Radiator

To loop it into the system. Or you could just replace the reservoir with a T-line.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
a T-line like is just a like a tube that comes up above all the others for filling/ bleeding right?
:Edit: do you reccomnd a T line?
 

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Yes, a T-line is used to fill/bleed the system. IMO, they are crap. They are very difficult to fill/bleed with. It takes a long time. I prefer resevoirs myself, much easier to use, plus they look a helluva lot cooler in your case too. The Hydor L20 is a pretty good pump, not the best, but decent. Pro's: low price, very quiet, very reliable. Cons: lower flowrate than most, lower head than most. Personally, I would consider a Mag 3 or a Hydor L30 or an Eheim 1250. All those pumps cost under $50 and will give very good performance.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by SpencerM

thanks lando

Anytime!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So if i want to get a heatercore from a auto shop, what kind should i ask for? Where do you purchase shrouds to mount the fans? also What is a cheap yet good waterblock? Also how are mouse pads used for condensation proofing? Sorry for all the questions thanks for the help
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by SpencerM

So if i want to get a heatercore from a auto shop, what kind should i ask for? Where do you purchase shrouds to mount the fans? also What is a cheap yet good waterblock? Also how are mouse pads used for condensation proofing? Sorry for all the questions thanks for the help

A double heatercore is out of a '77 Bonneville, and single heatercore is out of an '86 Chevette. You could also ask the auto parts store for the largest one they have, which is usually the large GM heatercore. General motors used the same heatercore for about 10 years in about 20 different vehicles. Shrouds can be purchased at DangerDen.com, Voyeurmods.com, Crazypc.com, Frozencpu.com, or you can make your own, there are many guides, just Google it. A cheap yet good waterblock would probably be the Dtek TC-4 or Spiral. Another good block that is a little more expensive is the Swiftech MCW6002. People are always selling waterblocks, so you might want to check on Ebay. If you are using regular watercooling, then you don't have to condensate proof, as your temps will not go below ambient. If you use a TEC, then you will have to, and yes, mouse pads work well-as long as they are the cheapo ones that are made of neoprene. Don't apologize for asking questions, that's what we are here for! Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Awsome you are the man. Just 1 (2 actually) quick other q, should i stick with wc by itself and the get a TEC if i decide to OC a load more? Do you need to do any condensation proofing (dielectric grease and pipeing ect) with a regular wc system or just with TEC's?
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by SpencerM

Awsome you are the man. Just 1 (2 actually) quick other q, should i stick with wc by itself and the get a TEC if i decide to OC a load more? Do you need to do any condensation proofing (dielectric grease and pipeing ect) with a regular wc system or just with TEC's?

You only need cond. proofing when using a TEC. About using a TEC: what cpu are you planning on using it on? If you are thinking about using it on that 2.4B, I would say go for it. If considering a Prescott, I would suggest against using a TEC, as Pressy's run really really hot and you most likely would not see an increase in your overclock versus regular watercooling.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ill probably stick with regular wc b/c i am probably going to upgrade in the future, and i am too poor (probably even for wc itself, but ill save up)
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by SpencerM

ill probably stick with regular wc b/c i am probably going to upgrade in the future, and i am too poor (probably even for wc itself, but ill save up)


Haha, if you take your time and shop carefully, you can build a really nice system for pretty cheap. Good luck bro! And if you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. I remember building my first wc system....I was nervous as hell, but it all worked out good and now I will never go back to air cooling.
 

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If i ever get mine done, ill still have all my fans going (ALL 6 of em') to keep the case temp down, along with the MOSFETs.....

...And i just like the sound. lol
 

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well you dont require it, but if you think about... it would be good for everything that doesnt have a waterblock on it, e.g. hard drive, MOFSETs, southbridge, memory, PSU, various parts of chipset and video card. but hey, its more wires in the case. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yeah i probabl wouldnt take any out, but jw if i could take the top fan out to hang a resivoir fom there
 

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Ok, I'm going to have to do my PRO-T-LINE bit here...

I have a T-line and have loved it ever since I switched over. Pros:

Takes up less room
Cheaper than a res
Much less likely to crack/leak

Starting with an empty WCing system, I can have it filled and turned on in about 4 minutes w/ my t-line. At 4 min, there is still some air in the lines, but temps are only maybe 2C over normal until the rest of the air gets out.

All you do to fill is:

Pour as much coolant into the system as you can, then tilt the case around to make the air pockets move around until they travel up the T-line and out. then pour more coolant in, then tilt the case around again to work the air pockets out. Do the same thing one more time if there is still a lot of air pockets. Then after you have about 90-95% of the air out that way, and you have the system filled past the T-fitting, start the pump. I don't even let the pump bleed any of the air out before I start the comp (unless I'm leak testing).

There's my openion.
 
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