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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I think I'm finally coming down to my last order (or two) of water cooling stuff.. and I'm wondering how to connect (22) fans to my FC Touch controller.

Obviously I need some fan splitter cables... Now, I want to run (3) 360s in push pull, along with (4) case fans that I got. So, total of (22) fans... The FC Touch has (6) channels.

How should I configure the controller? I'd imagine the push/pull should all be synchronized, right? So should I run each rad of (6) fans on its own channel? I read that the AP-15s only take .96 amps each, so I'm no where near the 30a/channel...

Then, just run the (4) case fans on their own channel?

Also, which splitters should I buy? Should I get four way splitters, so that I can daisy chain the splitters and run (2) splitters/each channel? Or is there a neater way of doing this? Distribution block? I figure that maybe getting (2) 3 way blocks for each rad might be the cleanest look - less wires running around?

I looked for a 6 splitter, but I can't seem to find one.. I guess the other option is to buy (1) 6 way cable splitter per channel?
 

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That would depend on the control scheme. Even without a fan controller you could run:

11 voltage controlled 3-pin fans of MoBo CPU PWM header using a Phanteks PCB
11 voltage controlled 3-pin fans of MoBo CPU-OPT PWM header using a 2nd Phanteks PCB

Here's what I am doing ....

MoBo CHA_1 => Phanteks PCB = 6 x Phanteks 140mm SP140s @ 1200 rpm on 420 rad (0.14 amps each)
MoBo CHA_1 => Phanteks PCB = 4 x Phanteks 140mm SP140s @ 1200 rpm on 280 rad (0.14 amps each)
MoBo CHA_1 => Phanteks PCB = 5 x Phanteks 140mm SP140s @ 1200 rpm case fans (0.14 amps each)

But one of ya fans draws more amps than 6 of mine so you can't use the MoBo Chassis headers.

In your case.... with 6 channels, I'd use:

1 Channel for 1st 360
1 Channel for 2nd 360
1 Channel for 3rd 360
1 Channel for Case Fans

Run each lead from the Fan Controller to a PCB of the appropriate type (PWM or Variable voltage control) and connect ya fans accordingly

If the Controller is PWM and Fans Voltage Control, the Phanteks PCB (available as separate accessory at end of this month) would be the choice.

If the Fans and Controller are PWM
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html

If the Fans and Controller are voltage control,
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g34/c17/s424/list/p1/Bay_Devices-Fan_Controllers-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html
 

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Remember to account for startup current as well. An AP-15 requires .360A at startup. So that's 4.32W at 12V. So you would need about 26W at startup per fan for 6 fans. Luckily the FC Touch is 30W per channel, so each set of 6 radiator fans shouldn't be a problem. Then put the case fans on a fourth channel, or spread them out over the last 3 channels
As for a splitter, you could probably get a MyModToys 4-pin board and just use it as 3-pin instead
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgipson1 View Post

I posted this a while back... maybe something like this? I am running 18 fans on a FC9... only four channels...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1469785/multi-fan-port-mod-for-use-with-fan-controllers
That is kind of what I need, except in order to run it off the fan controller, I need 3 pin connectors (and the power to come from the controller, not the PSU). Thanks for the response!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

That would depend on the control scheme. Even without a fan controller you could run:

11 voltage controlled 3-pin fans of MoBo CPU PWM header using a Phanteks PCB
11 voltage controlled 3-pin fans of MoBo CPU-OPT PWM header using a 2nd Phanteks PCB

Here's what I am doing ....

MoBo CHA_1 => Phanteks PCB = 6 x Phanteks 140mm SP140s @ 1200 rpm on 420 rad (0.14 amps each)
MoBo CHA_1 => Phanteks PCB = 4 x Phanteks 140mm SP140s @ 1200 rpm on 280 rad (0.14 amps each)
MoBo CHA_1 => Phanteks PCB = 5 x Phanteks 140mm SP140s @ 1200 rpm case fans (0.14 amps each)

But one of ya fans draws more amps than 6 of mine so you can't use the MoBo Chassis headers.

In your case.... with 6 channels, I'd use:

1 Channel for 1st 360
1 Channel for 2nd 360
1 Channel for 3rd 360
1 Channel for Case Fans

Run each lead from the Fan Controller to a PCB of the appropriate type (PWM or Variable voltage control) and connect ya fans accordingly

If the Controller is PWM and Fans Voltage Control, the Phanteks PCB (available as separate accessory at end of this month) would be the choice.

If the Fans and Controller are PWM
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html

If the Fans and Controller are voltage control,
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g34/c17/s424/list/p1/Bay_Devices-Fan_Controllers-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html
Thanks for the response, that's definitely what I need to do...

Quote:
Originally Posted by morencyam View Post

Remember to account for startup current as well. An AP-15 requires .360A at startup. So that's 4.32W at 12V. So you would need about 26W at startup per fan for 6 fans. Luckily the FC Touch is 30W per channel, so each set of 6 radiator fans shouldn't be a problem. Then put the case fans on a fourth channel, or spread them out over the last 3 channels
As for a splitter, you could probably get a MyModToys 4-pin board and just use it as 3-pin instead
Hey man, glad you chimed in... I was told to get a 30w, and now I know why. ;c)

In terms of the splitter, I have a feeling that the reason why there are no 6 way 3 pin splitters is because of the amount of power to control (6) fans cannot be done via 3 pin setup.. Thoughts on that? I notice all the larger (8 way, etc) are for 4-pin connectors, and that's what makes me think 3 pins can't do it. Unless, you know what the 4th pin is for in the 4 pin setups... PWM perhaps?
 

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Power does come from the controller... I just used the extensions that came with the controller to attach to the PC board of the fan ports. A 4-pin connector works fine with a 3-pin plug... you just don't use the PWM pin (#4), only the Ground, 12v, and the RPM sensor wire. These boards only have Ground and power anyway... which is all you have on the controller. (if that makes sense)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgipson1 View Post

Power does come from the controller... I just used the extensions that came with the controller to attach to the PC board of the fan ports. A 4-pin connector works fine with a 3-pin plug... you just don't use the PWM pin (#4), only the Ground, 12v, and the RPM sensor wire. These boards only have Ground and power anyway... which is all you have on the controller. (if that makes sense)
Perfect sense.. thanks a lot man! Sounds like I need a bunch of these below...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanEboy View Post

Perfect sense.. thanks a lot man! Sounds like I need a bunch of these below...
I have a bunch of those also... and they work very well! I just decided to go with the others because I wanted to make a permanent connection to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgipson1 View Post

I have a bunch of those also... and they work very well! I just decided to go with the others because I wanted to make a permanent connection to it.
Gotcha, yeah I'm ordering (4) of them, with 24" female to females off the end to connect to the controller... I'm trying to think if there's anything else I need... Wondering if I should ditch the red Feser One I bought, and go with something clear...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanEboy View Post

Gotcha, yeah I'm ordering (4) of them, with 24" female to females off the end to connect to the controller... I'm trying to think if there's anything else I need... Wondering if I should ditch the red Feser One I bought, and go with something clear...
Watch out... FrozenPCU's site is way to easy to spend a lot of money at... I know! lol! We can always find things we "need"... even if we don't!

Got plenty of cable sleeving and heatshrink? Gotta keep things neat and pretty, right? lol!
biggrin.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgipson1 View Post

Watch out... FrozenPCU's site is way to easy to spend a lot of money at... I know! lol! We can always find things we "need"... even if we don't!

Got plenty of cable sleeving and heatshrink? Gotta keep things neat and pretty, right? lol!
biggrin.gif
Yeah, I actually priced everything out between PPC and Frozen, and PPC won by about 5%, even after their coupon... Too bad I ordered $1k worth of stuff from PPC, only to place a smaller order with Frozen, and get a 10% coupon... I live in NY though, so I get wacked with tax, which is lame... But yeah, had I known I'd get 10%, I would've went with them, and called it a wash. Oh well...

I bought a bunch of fans pre-sleeved off someone on ebay, all new AP-15s... So, I don't need sleeving just yet, I'm sure I will as soon as the build is 100% together... I'm getting so damn antsy I can't take it anymore...

I'm ordering my final 290x waterblock for the quadfire, an add2psu connector, those 4 pin 6 ways, and calling it a night...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Quote:
Originally Posted by morencyam View Post

Remember to account for startup current as well. An AP-15 requires .360A at startup. So that's 4.32W at 12V. So you would need about 26W at startup per fan for 6 fans. Luckily the FC Touch is 30W per channel, so each set of 6 radiator fans shouldn't be a problem. Then put the case fans on a fourth channel, or spread them out over the last 3 channels
As for a splitter, you could probably get a MyModToys 4-pin board and just use it as 3-pin instead
Actually, the Lamptron controllers don't care about starting current, only running current.
The logic is simple: the fans basically start and stop a hundred times or more per second. So that pretty much negates the starting current requirement.

Also OP, I had as many as 20 AP-45's running on a single channel with no problems at all.
And that would be 29 Watts rurring total. If starting current had been an issue, there was 127 Watts starting.
So no, starting current is not an issue at all with.the Lamptron line.

You can easily run two 480 rads in push/pull on one channel no problem with your AP-15's. You'll still be running about half the wattage I was running with my 20 AP-45's.

Now, for splitter, here is the one I used. I like it because it's got 8 way split for my 480 p/p rads.

But you will have to mod it a bit to run as desired. Each Touch channel has one RPM display. You can only feed one rpm signal to each channel. That's the yellow wire on your fans. If you have more than one fan rpm signal connected to a single channel, it gets confused and tells you screwed up rpm readings.
That splitter I just linked sends 4 rpm signals on a single splitter. That's the 4 headers with the 3 pins.
So what I did is scratch the back of the splitter pcb to cut off 3 of the rpm signals. Now my channel only reads one fan's rpm.

An other thing too is those pcb's are not all that sturdy. If you plug and unplug your fans a lot, the headers get loose and loose current contact. So what I did is plaster the back of the pcb with 5 minute epoxy glue. Those headers ain't goin' no where now.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanEboy View Post

Perfect sense.. thanks a lot man! Sounds like I need a bunch of these below...
Those ones are made by the same guys who make the one I linked in my last post. They have the same issues in that the headers will loosen up and loose contact. And on this one, all 6 fans are sending their rpm signal to your controller. So you will have to scratch off the curcuits required on the back of the pcb.
If you need a pic of this, I can show you how I did it on mine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

Those ones are made by the same guys who make the one I linked in my last post. They have the same issues in that the headers will loosen up and loose contact. And on this one, all 6 fans are sending their rpm signal to your controller. So you will have to scratch off the curcuits required on the back of the pcb.
If you need a pic of this, I can show you how I did it on mine.
Thanks man, sounds like that is what I need to do... So, in order to show RPM, I need to get the (4) pin, but scratch all but (1) of the yellow, right?
 

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Correct.
Or you could snip, or pull out the yellow wire of all but one fan.
But I would rather alter my 6$ splitter than alter all my 25$ GT fans.

Once you get your splitter, you look at the back of it, and it becomes obvious which circuit to scratch off.
PM me or ask here if you need a pic

I just don't understand why they designed their splitters that way. Not a single mobo or controller channel can read multiple rpm signals on a single yellow wire. So why is MMT merging several rpm signals into a single wire? I don't know.
 

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Damnit, I forgot!
Something else I had to alter on my splitters.

On the back of that PCB, you will find one capacitor seperating the four 2-pin headers from the four 3-pin headers.
That capacitor was causing half my fans to run slower.....stoopit cap!

So I sent it to cap heaven with a pair if snips. And I soldered on a connection where the capacitor formerly was.

Now all my fans run at the speed I tell them to without biatching back.

So if you are not into modding stuff like that, the splitter I used might not be for you..
Unfortunately, that other all 4-pin splitter will also require some alterations. Not sur, I'd have to see the back of it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanEboy View Post

Thanks man, sounds like that is what I need to do... So, in order to show RPM, I need to get the (4) pin, but scratch all but (1) of the yellow, right?
Actually, now that I re-read your question:
You don't need to get the 4-pin one. In fact, that 4th pin is completely useless to you and me. That's the PWM signal, which the Lamptron doesn't support anyway.

I think my 3-pin 8-way splitter might be easier to alter. But again, I'd have to see the back of the pcb to be sure.
 

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Maybe this will help:



Pepe,

Is this what you are talking about on the back of the PCB?



I didn't even think about mentioning that... because the boards I actually use don't have that issue. You would think they would design it better. It is only an issue if you are going to use the tach wire.

Those solder connections are pretty solid, but it never hurts to strengthen a board with Epoxy. Good idea.
 
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