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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was messing order with some fittings I had in the lab at work and I had several of these push-to-connect fittings laying around. You typically see these guys on water filtration systems for homes and office water coolers. Has anyone ever tried using them on a water cooling build?



Fittings via McMaster-Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings/=lqp135

They have G1/4" threaded fittings that mate to 12mm OD tubing. They come in nickel and acetal
Maximum Pressure @ 70° F: 290 psi
Temperature Range: -4° to +175° F
Uses nylon tubing (with a hardness of Shore D 50 and D 70), polyethylene (Shore D 44), and polyurethane (Shore A 95)

The drawing for the fitting


Tubing :
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-and-rubber-tubing/=lqoy17
part number is 9355T52

the extra flexible nylon tubing seems to work fine at 38 mm bend radius and has a 90 psi pressure rating.

Based on the specifications, it seems like these could work for a water cooling loop but I haven't see anyone use them. Is there any reason why?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also doing some calculations (habit of being an engineer), it seems the pressure drop isn't too severe. I did the calculations using a co-efficient of roughness for a extremely used pipe (0.01 versus 0.0013 for new) of plastic.

Flow medium: Water 20 °C / liquid
Volume flow:: 2 gal/min
Weight density: 998.206 kg/m³
Dynamic Viscosity: 1001.61 10-6 kg/ms
Element of pipe: circular
Dimensions of element: Diameter of pipe D: 10 mm
Length of pipe L: 10 ft.
Velocity of flow: 5.27 ft./s
Reynolds number: 16011
Velocity of flow 2: -
Reynolds number 2: -
Flow: turbulent
Absolute roughness: 0.01 mm
Pipe friction number: 0.03
Resistance coefficient: 8.9
Resist.coeff.branching pipe: -
Press.drop branch.pipe: -

1.66 psid for 10 feet of tubing versus 0.5 psid for 1/2" ID tubing so it doesn't seem to have a huge amount of loss.
 

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you have to include part(s) numbers when you link to mcmaster-car

swiftech, used to use push-in fitting on most of their low profile blocks

i think you need to use rather rigid tubing to make them seal properly for bigger sized tubing, if i remember correctly

as for the pressure drop, is that for rigid or soft plastic, like acrylic or vinyl?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by somebadlemonade View Post

you have to include part(s) numbers when you link to mcmaster-car

swiftech, used to use push-in fitting on most of their low profile blocks

i think you need to use rather rigid tubing to make them seal properly for bigger sized tubing, if i remember correctly

as for the pressure drop, is that for rigid or soft plastic, like acrylic or vinyl?
Thanks, I'll edit the links.

The calculation is for soft plastic, but without looking through data, that's the generic roughness factor for contaminated and very old soft plastic hosing. The pressure drop for new plastic is 0.5 psid.
 

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I'd never seen a push to connect fitting for a water cool set up. But from my experience, changing the reverse osmosis I know the o rings can go bad over time and cause leaks. I'd like to see how this turns out so I keep an eye out on your progress. good luck Renkenkyo:thumb:
 

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you'll always get more pressure drop from water blocks than tubing, and as long as you aren't using right angle fittings, pretty much anything over 1/4" I.D. won't have enough pressure drop to really effect temps

i'd just be worried about leaking
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by misterjimmy View Post

I'd never seen a push to connect fitting for a water cool set up. But from my experience, changing the reverse osmosis I know the o rings can go bad over time and cause leaks. I'd like to see how this turns out so I keep an eye out on your progress. good luck Renkenkyo:thumb:
I think leakage would be my primary concern as well, but it's a static o-ring so other than squeeze, I don't think it'll be all that different a typical barb which uses one as well to the surface of your components. Of course your barb gets torqued down so it'll be up to how much static squeeze is on there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by somebadlemonade View Post

you'll always get more pressure drop from water blocks than tubing, and as long as you aren't using right angle fittings, pretty much anything over 1/4" I.D. won't have enough pressure drop to really effect temps i'd just be worried about leaking
Yeah, I threw that calc out there just to show the ball park number isn't much worse than the current hosing being used because some people might worry about that. It's relatively insignificant like you said.

Here's an article about push-to-locks:

http://www.watertechonline.com/articles/what-s-new-with-push-to-connect-fittings

I think the primary advantage is that these fittings are cheap and also really really quick to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I'll go ahead an pick a few of these and test em out for a week or so on external loop and check for leakage. Anyone else interested?
 

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Hi all,

Engineer here as well.

I'm also using push to connect fittings.
Except for two differences.

1.) I'm using all metal industrial fittings for liquid and low pressure applications.
Fittings are from PARKER

2.) I'm using rigid stainless steel tubing.

If anybody is interested I'll post results in a few weeks once I get it all finished.
The tubing I'm using is 12mm OD, 8mm ID
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cool, someone else interested in testing it. I tried with 12mm flexible tubing using the John Guest fittings and tubing from McMaster. No leaks so far on the external loop. I don't have any pressure/flow gauges at home to test the performance though. Can you let us know if you get the pressure drop/flow rate?
 

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Well, I don't have a pressure gauge to test pressure, but I'll see what I can scrounge up.

Everything is on order at the moment, should be arriving by next monday.

Here's a bit more detail.

I'm using fitting# 68PLM-12M-4G from Parker
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.bb22d5a82bbb5b147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=a2d9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=DK&vgnextcatid=11263847&vgnextcat=68PLM%20MALE%20CONNECTOR%20-%20BSPP&vgnextdiv=687547&vgnextpartno=68PLM-12M-4G&Wtky=

It's the largest accommodation for tube OD that they have for a 1/4 BSPP thread.
I'm sure the quality of this should last the lifetime of the computer. All metal construction, and viton seals

Anyways, the stainless steel tubing is from mcmastercarr.

I'm going to be bending the tubing myself. I'm a test/systems engineer at a place that designs hydraulic parts for aircrafts so I have had a bit of experience bending tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcyli View Post

Anyways, the stainless steel tubing is from mcmastercarr.

I'm going to be bending the tubing myself. I'm a test/systems engineer at a place that designs hydraulic parts for aircrafts so I have had a bit of experience bending tubing.
Me too! I work for Parkers competitor actually, small world.
 

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Nicee

Here's where I got my idea from.

http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/systems-2011/murderbox-mk2/murderbox-mk2.htm

and

https://www.reddit.com/r/17by37/if_you_like_watercooled_systems_you_will_love/
The idea seems reasonable. Low pressure, rigid tubing, o-rings should properly seal.

The only thing I was iffy about was the post on reddit in the comments he links to a 10mm G1/4 push to connect fitting from aquatuning. But looking at the pictures from million dollar pc and his imgur gallery they seem to be larger than 10mm.. so I just went with 12mm ~= 1/2in off by like 20 thou whatever.

I was going to go with a JIC to BSPP adapter and flare my tubes like a boss, but I realized that they only have it in steel or stainless, and the stainless is like 40 bucks per adapter, and water + steel = bad
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I feel that if you're going with stainless tubing, you might as well use standard threaded fittings and flare your tubing. That way you won't have to worry about having good tube to seal leakage as the o-ring will have positive squeeze from the thread load. It definitely looks badass though!

With the setup I've got, using flexible nylon tubing and running off a swiftech mp35x at full throttle, I haven't had any leakage issues. I don't have any restriction in the system at the moment though.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by renkenkyo View Post

I feel that if you're going with stainless tubing, you might as well use standard threaded fittings and flare your tubing. That way you won't have to worry about having good tube to seal leakage as the o-ring will have positive squeeze from the thread load. It definitely looks badass though!

With the setup I've got, using flexible nylon tubing and running off a swiftech mp35x at full throttle, I haven't had any leakage issues. I don't have any restriction in the system at the moment though.
Yeah, I've tried finding straight adapters that are imperial male flared and male bspp threaded. The only thing I found was that weird adapter that was 40 bucks a pop.

Then if I go metric, I'd have to add in a bunch of money to get the flaring tools. Which I'd rather not buy..

What type of adapter were you thinking?
 

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i got talking to jessi from the modzoo about push fittings.... he said they were the easiest way of watercooling ..... is this correct ?? the reason being is i have found these http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/CL-38andquot;-BSPP-10mm-Hose-Push-Fitting_1831.html and i wanna know were i can get either acrylic tubing or maybe stainless steel tubing (not from a watercooling store for the tubing) would any work ??

and would it look ok ??
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by flynna3162581 View Post

i got talking to jessi from the modzoo about push fittings.... he said they were the easiest way of watercooling ..... is this correct ?? the reason being is i have found these http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/CL-38andquot;-BSPP-10mm-Hose-Push-Fitting_1831.html and i wanna know were i can get either acrylic tubing or maybe stainless steel tubing (not from a watercooling store for the tubing) would any work ??

and would it look ok ??
Yeah, just get the right diameter tubing and it should work. The fitting should come with an o-ring sized for 10 mm diameter tubing and you'll want to use a hex wrench via the hole to tighten it down. You could use a normal wrench on the outside, but you might mar the surface.
 
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