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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first venture into xbox repair. I watched a bunch of youtube videos and guides on how to do the XCLAMP fix beforehand.

Test subject is a RROD XENON (I believe, since it has no HDMI) MFR'd 2006-07-29

I was thinking this would take only 30 mins or so to fix but man I was wrong.

Lowes was not only out of everything I needed. They did help me get the wrong washers. I have new found hatred for these washers called 'wave lock' but they did the job sufficiently enough. Also I didn't have the right size nylon washers but I substituted a very close sized alternative.

The trickiest part with the whole thing was NOT having the bolts slide out after painstakingly putting all 8 bolts and all washers under and over the mobo. I did this 3 times!! First time I just wasn't paying attention and a bolt slid out. Second and third time my tape held on as I was peeling and took the bolt out with it. Last time it was on the very last bolt. :swearing:

Cleaning the baked on super-cooked original thermal grease was also a PITA even using rubbing alcohol. I got both chips nice and mirror finish though in the pictures before adding the AS5. Even though I've read the paste is really insignificant I just want to get this first one done right and proper. Also for the sake of seeing exactly how long this XCLAMP fix will last.

1st start up it still threw a RROD. Powered off and I disconnected the fans and restarted. Started just fine second time and I let it run for about a minute or two just to bake a little in the new tension.

SO FAR SO GOOD!



pic 1 before surgery.

pic 2 dirty as hell heatsink.

pic 3 mobo out.

pic 4 & 5 removal of X-brackets.

*more pics incoming!*
LL
LL
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LL
LL
 

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Awesome man. Glad my thread helped. Just know that it's a temporary fix and will eventually fail again but I'm glad it's working!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I got Mass Effect cheap and used it to test the DVD drive and what unfortunate luck.

Drive has the issue with the laser bumping back and forth at start of loading. Only does this with 360 games. DVDs play fine.



 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by rock3ralex
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nice. I've watched many vids on this and they're all the same. do you think artic cooling mx2 thermal paste would work? It doesn't have to cure to get full potential and is better than AS5.

It won't make much difference. Maybe 1-2C different on the Xbox but that won't do much good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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Originally Posted by DennisC
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If only DVDs play fine, then your drive might have the wrong key.

It's actually loaded to start screen in mass effect a couple times now. Not sure if that is possible if there was a key issue with the hitachi.

From the research I've gathered it looks like I have a couple options:

1) Pot calibration. Which adjusts the laser strength. I need to get a multimeter to do this. This is temporary and can lead to laser burning out.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=517961


3) Replace dvd drive. Really don't want to do this because then I have to delve into flashing firmware and this 360 could have live issues (like console ban) afterwards or worse I could brick it if I mess up or power goes out etc.

I'm thinking it's more of a laser issue really. I'll be attempting the pot calibration first as soon as I get hold of a multimeter.

:update:


My stock pot resistance was at 4.28 which is a bit high so I set it to 3.38 and then 2.98 both to no success. I could go lower but I don't think .12 is going to make a difference and I'd rather not risk burning the lens out as it's probably something else if it could read to start from ALL the pot settings.

Next up is drive spindle cleaning and praying I don't get the lens angle FUBAR when I put it back together. *gulp*
 

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tape helps to keep things in place.


Also, if you do the proper xclamp fix, it IS permanant.

http://xbox-experts.com/e/tutorial.php?n=hybrid

Notice how he actually levels the center standoffs.. this is CRUCIAL to avoiding another RRoD. -- if the board lays flat, there is no reason for the solder joints to be under any stress, then, with the 8 bolts holding the board in place, it cannot flex up or down. simple as that.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by TheJack
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I think it's cool how superk knows how to fix the RROD but the one he sold me still does it

That doesn't mean anything. The GPU is not the only cause of RROD. Doing the X-Clamp fixing does not mean it saves all other ways of having a RROD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Originally Posted by rock3ralex
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does mx2 work better than the as5 on an rrod fix or is as5 required?

The thermal paste really is trivial. It probably doesn't matter what thermal paste you use but I'd say cleaning and reapplying will ensure it's conducting the heat efficiently.

X-CLAMP will probably keep your system going as long as you keep it properly ventilated after the fix.

If your solder balls under the chips are really f*cked you'll still have RROD after X-CLAMP.

Only thing you can do then is try the 'bake-in' method by and hope the contacts improve:




Also my Hitachi drive seems like it is just unrepairable. Sigh.


I might be able to get another lens and replace but I might as well pay a little more and just get a new drive that is quieter and has the rubber rings around lens to prevent scratching discs instead.

I need to learn how to flash the drives and firmware as well so might be a good time now.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by ENTERPRISE
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When solder contact become poor, Can you not just attempt a resolder rather than the whole ''BAKE'' method.

The resolder method is one of the only accurate and definite permanent fixes. Hardly anyone has properly done it, but it is one of the methods that is considered permanent.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by halifax1
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The resolder method is one of the only accurate and definite permanent fixes. Hardly anyone has properly done it, but it is one of the methods that is considered permanent.

I have to say that if I had this issue ( Warranty Expired ) I would attempt a resolder if I knew for sure it was a Solder issue. Screw the BAKE method lol
 

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Yeah, are there any tutorials out there for the soldering method?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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Originally Posted by LawLIam
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Yeah, are there any tutorials out there for the soldering method?

Here's a video of a guy in brazil reballing using an expensive machine.




Re balling is a total PITA and probably not worth the time IMO. If you don't want to pay like $50-60 to get a pro to reball the entire mobo read up here:

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.p...c=579364&st=75

I have a total of FIVE 360's I've picked up around $50 each.


One is under warranty with RROD and going back to MicroShaft. (Just called them and they will not offer you a return box. Insist a box say to the effect "My friend had the same issue and a white box was sent to him. I don't want to use my own box and be responsible." Shady ass MS tsk tsk
)

Another is working fine after taking apart. Little metal clips on the left and right that help hold the drive in place in front; one popped off and was catching and keeping the tray closed.

The original 360 with the bad hitachi drive in this thread. :swearing:

One I'm keeping for myself with HDMI out that works fine.


and one more RROD I'm working on today. I'll post some pics while X-CLAMPING.

:update:

Sorry forgot to take pics. I got half done in a rush before work and just finished the last part up and it's a bit late already.

I need to find a place to get cheap working xbox 360 HDDs and also a copy of Halo 3 for myself.
 
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