Originally Posted by Pencuri  look at http://www.dazmode.com/store/ and find the stuff there. They are based in Canada. |
Originally Posted by Wubble Here are some questions... Are you going to be mounting your radiator internally or externally or does it matter? If it doesn't matter I would recommend an RX 480 Rad with some good fans like the AP-15 or AP-14's. Then get two EK-FC580 GTX+ Nickel + Acetal blocks, I have found these blocks to work great on my 580 getting a max temp of only 45c using the Extreme present benchmark on MSI Kombuster. With an overclock of (950/1900/2200) at 1.138 V Then go on to getting a res you like, just get a nice quality one you like or you can get a res/pump combo. For the pump swiftech makes some really nice pumps like the MCP 35X. For your tubing I would probably get Primochill at 7/16" ID 5/8" OD but you can pick whatever you like. You can either get barbs or compression fittings for your seals compression look nicer but are much more expensive, also make sure to get the right size and clamps for barbs. For your CPU block I would recommend an EK Supreme HF. Hope this helps. |
Originally Posted by noshibby This is exactly what I was looking for, now a 480 rad may be a tad bit long, as my case is only few inches higher than a 360 rad is. If needed I was going to mount one 360 to the back 120mm fan location, and then another inside my case at the top, then the 240 at the bottom. I'd prefer to keep it internal but ill do whatever I must to keep it nice a cool while overclocked. That's a fantastic temperature on your graphics card at those clocks, im at 90 degrees with only a 850 core on the stock cooler. would there be any real world advantage to going with a 1/2" idx 3/4" od? and those are actually the same blocks I was looking to get for the cpu/gpu Now what is the best way to SLi them?, with the EK parallel block. and if so if I remember reading correctly you actually need more things to go with that block to make it work. and I will almost definitely be going with some bitspower compression fittings. I notices that the l3pdesk uses some pretty nice looking hard drive coolers as well, these seem like they would serve dual purpose to silence my hard drives and cool them, especially should I choose to build something along the lines of what he has. I havent been able to locate them, nor anything from that series of products that he used from bitspower available online really (mind you I havent really overly searched yet. |
Originally Posted by Wubble You could try that placement with multiple rads and it would work 480 rad would just be simpler. For the 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD is more about preference as long as your barbs and clamps or your compressions are on you won't leak from there. And I forgot to mention the best way is to purchase a parallel slot like you said. Also IMHO I think hard drive coolers are just expensive and restrict your loop more, meaning higher temperatures in water, meaning higher temps in CPU/GPU. You could just get a HDD Anti Vibration mount or vibration dampener. |
Originally Posted by noshibby So with the parallel block I need two links correct? Also I'm not overly concerned with the increase in temps that my hard drives would give if it makes them damn near perfectly silent. |
Originally Posted by Wubble You would only need one of those parallel blocks, just put them on the blocks and bam just get your tubing in from one and out the other and water will go through. Also I'm not 100% sure but I don't think that watercooling your HDD's would make them silent because they do not have a fan the noise is coming from the hard drive spinning and watercooling would not make the hard drive stop spinning. |
Originally Posted by noshibby Perhaps however encasing it in metal will make it quieter. Also I'm aware I'd only need one of the parallel blocks, but it mentions something about links. |
Originally Posted by noshibby Well, here is what I'm looking at, doesn't look as nice here as it did in excel. Just looking for some opinions. QuantityItemUnitTotal 1EK-Supreme HF Full Nickel $86.99 $86.99 2EK-FC580 GTX+ Acetal+Nickel $117.99 $235.98 1Swiftech MCP 655-01 Water Pump With Speed Controller $79.99 $79.99 1FrozenQ Fusion Reservoir Rev.6 UV Blue 250mm $79.99 $79.99 1EK-FC Bridge Dual 3-Slot Parallel SLI Bridge $24.99 $24.99 2EK-FC Links $12.99 $25.98 1EK Coolstream XT 240 Dual 120 Radiator $62.99 $62.99 1EK Coolstream XTC 480 Quad 120 Radiator $114.99 $114.99 10Feser Tube UV Hose 1/2" ID 3/4" OD $1.89 $18.90 14Bitspower 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Straight Compression Fitting - Matt Black $8.99 $125.86 4Bitspower Stop Plug Fitting Matt Black $3.29 $13.16 2Koolance 1/2" ID Tubing Hose Clamp $1.93 $3.86 1Kill Coil $4.99 $4.99 Subtotal $878.67 Taxes $43.93 Total $922.60 Shipping $93.67 Grand Total $1,016.27 |
I will be using distilled water, and I don't think nickel and copper will have a galvanic reaction, otherwise they wouldn't be able to plate copper in nickel.Originally Posted by fl0w3n;13244624
Seems like you're on a good path. Very similar loop to what I have (It's not listed in my sig any more though). I love the HF-Supreme, I have the copper/acetal one though.
Just a suggestion, check out this Pump/Res combo: Link
I went to that from my Laing 655 and love it. It will also save you some money.
Another thing, is you may want to look into dropping tubing size to 7/16 with 1/2 barbs. The reason for this being a much tighter fit and more leak proof, which is good for your first time. It will be a tiny bit tougher to shove the tubing over the barbs, but it may be worth it.
Also, if you can find an adapter for 120:140 you might want to look into a 420 radiator (3x140mm) if the 140mm fan selection fits your liking. A 140x3 radiator will out perform a 120x4 radiator due to increased surface area (as long as fan's are kept relatively the same).
I'm currently making the switch from 120 stuff to 140 stuff, currently I have a Swiftech 360, HW Labs 240, and XSPC 120 and will go with a 420 and 280 rad setup which will out perform my old setup. BTW, if you would consider used radiators...PM me if you'd be interested in picking up mine.
Other than that, you seem to be on the right track. It's actually really fun to build a loop, and can get quite addictingJust remember to take your time. Provide sufficient support to components when shoving tubing over barbs. Just to be safe, do a long leak down test period. If you have a spare PSU, use that. If not, just jump the GREEN wire to any BLACK wire on your psu and that will turn on just your PSU, thus powering your pump. That way you don't risk burning out your mobo/other components if you have a leak.![tongue.gif]()
Also, I didn't catch what fluid you would be using...but just personally I suggest distilled water and pt-nuke. It is much more likely to be hassle free.
Oh, I just noticed something else...you picked all Nickel stuff for the blocks, but I think radiators have copper inside them. I would either switch all your blocks to copper versions, or you will need a special thing in your loop (drawing a blank on what it is, never used one) to keep the metals from reacting with each other and gunking your loop.
Also, if you go with brand new radiators, remember to do a good long flushing on them...otherwise your water will look like poop after some time because of all the flux from inside the radiator being knocked loose![tongue.gif]()
Originally Posted by noshibby I will be using distilled water, and I don't think nickel and copper will have a galvanic reaction, otherwise they wouldn't be able to plate copper in nickel. aluminium and copper will galvanically react. and I changed to 140mm rad sizes, raised the prices a bit. I think I'd prefer the 1/2" ID tubing simply for kink resistance and higher flow. and I will definitely look into that reservoir setup, I wasn't really sure which direction I wanted to go for my reservoir. so far everything in that order I can get from dazmode here in canada so I wont have to be raped for duty. |
