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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
People I need recommendation for 13/10 clear soft tubes easy to install on ACF Fittings.
I bought EK Dura Clear but this is junk.

I would not make this topic but guy who had 15 years of experience with watercooling couldn't install 15cm peace of tubes on fitting in hand.
Than you can imagine what could happen in PC on hardware, damage without problem.

But it's good because I tried before.
I success to install somehow, removing is not possible at all, tube was deformed before and I strech tube to 5cm diameter but I didn't success to remove from tube.
Even with such experience I decide to practice, but guy recommend me to throw in garbage and show how tube half installed shouldn't be such deformed and so much wider on fitting than body of tube.
I didn't had other options on their sites, I decide to save cost and order everything from one place, DON'T DO THAT.
If you save cost you will spent more later buying again.
If you want strong radiator you need Hardwarelabs, if you want flat housing you need XSPC AX, their housing is minimum 3 times thicker than Coolstream and impossible to bend and AVOID Dura Clear. Some people meantion plasticizer, I can't say, I didn't build loop with them, only know that people notice that tubes inside package of EKWB cooling kit S.L.P and EKWB Dura Clear 13/10mm 3m are not same.
People who tried both of them.

People on overclockers.uk ask how EK it's not shame to put own name on something like that.
Now is May 2018, people have bad experience with their EKWB Dura Clear kit from end 2017.

Now I need recommendation for 100% normal soft tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Problem is because inner diameter of tubes is smaller than thinnest part, top of fitting.
And no matter how you turn one part can't enter inside without insane pushing, squezing and that only could be flaw for leakage,
no way better prevention.
And difference between thinest part of fitting, his top and inner diameter of tubes is not so small.

Deformation of inner tube start immediately there, on smallest part of fitting and only become bigger and bigger at the end on half of fitting look funny... like snike who try to eat egg. Hahahaaa...

People complain on plasticizer, tubes are not clear immediately or after week of use, abnormal installation.
Avoid them simple.
Mayhem is out of stock 13/10mm soft Ultra Clear, probably with reason.


Edit: How much is max temperature of tubes 80C???
Because after I put top of tubes only 2-3cm, 1-2 seconds only in hot water, I mean really hot after boiling point 1-2 min stay and than.
Than go easy, but I afraid such hot water will damage tube, I can't eastimate is it 80 or 85C. I heared somewhere people put water based lubricant... Hahahaaa Ahaahaaa lubricant. Jesus. :).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
this is standard chemical resistant clear tubing, this is the only kind of clear tubing I would use, even this still needs to be replaced every 5 years.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=75640&catid=864

this is norprene tubing, and what I use on all my builds, lasts for 20 years before it needs to be replaced.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=33112&catid=864
I'm new in watercooling, and I doubt that I will keep same tubes more than 2 months.
After that I cut them remove than and install different color, black or norprene or similar.
I would like to try as much more options. I special like Norprene, they are for me much cooler than Hard tubes.
Off course thin 13/10mm Norprene, I have some aversion against thicker tubes.

I got mail from EKWB and they say puting tubes in hot water is right way to install them.
On that way tube go easy to the end of fitting. Can't be uninstalled except on one way. You make move like you want to brake tube, move on down closest possible to fitting, than it's easy to remove Dura Clear tube because pulling no way, we deformed peace of tube and didn't move him 1mm. Off course no one normal will use tube after removing from fitting.

I know Tygon was best before 15 years but now I'm not sure any more, small number of people use them.
Anyway they are my only option for Norprene.

Because I'm bigginer to avoid possible problems only two weak spot for leaking will be Monoblock, radiator and pump will be completely in section where no hardware.

I will try with EK Dura Clear for now or maybe Mayehem.
3m Mayhem and cutter are 10euro on watercooling.de

What you think for scissors for tubes, can I use this. Only 2-3 models are available in my country because we can't find watercooling parts.
But these are cutters for up to 42mm tubes, plastic, PVC, rubber. It's aluminium and stainless steal knife.
Only 2.5 euro. I think they could serve to cut EK tubes...
 

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well I am not a fan of that kind of tube cutter, I just use a large pair of scissors, the ones I use are kitchen scissors.

https://www.amazon.com/MAIRICO-Prem...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VCMSKRJYXKY0PBJZA174

if you have the time have a look at my build.

http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1615072-cpu-radiator-upgrade-water-cooled-rig.html

I know that using tubing slightly smaller than the fittings is something that I have seen on you tube. heat the end of the tubing up with hot water, slide it on the fitting, and when it cools it never comes off, unless you cut it off. just for the record I have been water cooling my PC's for 20 years, and I have never done this. I also have never had a leak from the tubing coming lose from a fitting. I like koolance compression fittings because they are designed to have a wrench put on them. all other rotary fittings I use bitspower or barrow. you don't need the wrench when you put the loop together hand tight is fine but after a couple of years some of the fittings are impossible to loosen with your hands. now I like 3/8" ID 5/8" OD tubing because it is thick wall tubing harder to kink than thin wall tubing. I also get the compression fitting that are the same size as the tubing I am using. so the koolance compression fittings that I would get for that size tubing are also 3/8" ID 5/8" OD.

this is a extreme build, but it does show how I use thick wall tubing to do a 180 degree bend, and the tubing does not kink.

http://www.overclock.net/forum/62-peltiers-tec/1651377-full-system-tec-cooling.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
You want to say that you never use hot water to install tube on fitting?
But you would not be able to install on different way EKWB Dura Clear 3m, not from kits, separate package on EK ACF fitting.
No way, such strong pushing without success make damage on inner side of tubes. I saw traces from fitting scratch inner side of tubes.

It's not possible, thinest part of fitting is to bigger than inner diameter of tube and hot water is only solution.
Lucky I tried on peace of tube before I installed everything... I never saw on internet that someone had such problem to install tubes and believe me if only small chance exist to install I would install and I installed but that's not possible to repeat inside computer.
My friend couldn't install at all. But I think that he tried and immediately compare with his experience and gave up because didn't had such problem.

I'm curious why no one made compression fittings from stainless steal SS316L?
That would be much more durable than any nickel plated fittings and similar things.
If someone launch them and if they could be made I will buy them

Stainless steal could be and polished mirror and could be matt.
If it's good for victorinox knives why not for compression fittings.
He very hard corrode and need special environment to corrode such material, not under normal circumstances.
That would be such durable fittings, resistent to scratching, modern, nice. We should ask EKWB...
WE WANT STAINLESS STEAL COMPRESSION FITTINGS!

They save cost on us, acrylic, brass, give us glass and stainless steal and aluminium. :).
Best vaping equipment is from stainless steal and borosilicat glass.
 

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It has been a long time since I've seen clear soft tubing testing being done. These aren't great but they cover two of the more popular options http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/05/extreme-rigs-soft-tubing-test/ and http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/12/06/extreme-rigs-soft-tube-test-take-2/ . I just picked up some mayhem's but its still in the box so I can't personally judge it yet. As mentioned norprene is good bet.

Hot water dipping the tubing to get it over tight fittings or for the clampless small tube big fittings technique works well in my experience. After being used on a fitting for a while I don't think I've ever removed tubing in a reusable state without recutting the end.

I don't see a need for stainless fittings, I try to avoid acrylic, and definitely don't want aluminum.
 

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Hi there

Personally I would stay clear from EK DuraClear have used this tubing for around 2-3 months maybe bit longer but this tubing started to yellowing after while, if you are looking for clear tubing then I can highly recommend Mayhems Clear tubing which OCUK do have in stock over in UK

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayh...ooling-tubing-38-12-13-10mm-1m-wc-115-mh.html

Maybe Caseking do have this tubing as well in stock, have used Mayhems tubing with EK or Barrow or XSPC fittings ajd never have issues

Run EK DuraClear same with most of fittings and no issues as well with tightening the fittings

Personally I rather use Mayhems UV White tubing or EK ZMT,if not then get Tygon A-60-G which is same as EK ZMT

Watercool selling their EPDM tubing

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wat...?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/50272

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Watercooling.de have Mayhem Ultra Clear 13/10mm

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/50300

EPDM Tubbing are something like Norprene Tygon?

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/50272

I heared for guys who bought EKWB Kits S/L/P and inside you get 2m of tubes.
They were satisfied and decide to buy more and order EKWB Dura Clear and something completely different.

It's bad because I have problem with radiator, I'm not sure if EKWB want to replace me because my friend bought parts for me.
I would not have money to pay custom tax 130 euro on all parts I order and he have license for importing parts for cars, bikes, trucks and etc from EU in Serbia without custom fee and decide to help me and bring me parts. Without him I would not have money to pay tax.

He was in Germany in that moment and prepared to travel to Belgrade, and log to my EKWB account to pay but couldn't change shipping address I made with my account on Serbia. I fast send message to EKWB to change me shipping adress but we couldn't wait, he made own account only because me, he don't know nothing with hardware. He made own account with German address only because me, I logged and put in box everything I need same as on my account and he payed. 24h later EKWB send me message they success to change my address, but everything was over.
And I don't know if EKWB will accept RMA. If not I bought broken radiator and can't replace. I should see with him in Thursday, he don't understand nothing about RMA and procedure and nothing. He didn't even remember of password of his account, I told him.
But I still have hope that will accept RMA for me and send me in Serbia. EKWB say I should try and start RMA they are not sure if other employers will accept. Bad.

Only radiator I could find in Serbia now is Hardwarelabs 360 GTS X-Flow. 50euro.
Guy say he used him very short time with Clear EK Coolant. What you think about that radiator if EKWB don't want to replace me.
 

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@Vlada011

If Watercool do have Mayhems Clear tubing then I would suggest get it or EPDM tubing which is noprene tubing which is very good tubing, have tried like EK ZMT or Tygon A-60-G on last build for friend and friend is very happy with the build

Regarding the EK DuraClear have used only tubing which I got with X360 kit and I wouldn't touch that tubing

Personally I would use or get Mayhems UV White tubing which I use right now and no issues too

What problems do you have with EK radiator?

And I would say EKWB should be able help you with RMA and hopefully they will help you

Don't have any spare 360mm radiator at home which I would give you or sent you for free,not sure if I have 240mm radiator at home, will check later this week



Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I can’t log from pc on forum and write from iphone. Its not problem with radiator. I meanh he is ok probably but housing on coostrem pe is little separate from core something keep them together as i saw on picture and on my radiator is not tight and you se how core move inside housing on one side, ports and produce noise. If i saw good only pe version have some small peaces between core and housing. I save that noise and send to ekwb and they say definitely is not normal. I thouht first screws are in box because i heared noise before unboxing. I think ekwb or even me could fix that but im not sure. I will post when i se where is problem with site i never had such log problems.


Here is problem, I'm 99% sure EKWB technical support could fit that if they allow me RMA.
I doubt core of radiator is fault, only maybe ports. I can't estimate is it radiator core bad attached on ports or something between radiator core and housing is removed.
I saved audio keeping radiaor in vertical position and removing left right 5-10cm.

http://www.mediafire.com/file/96ce8aktu5s6ouu/Recording+(autosaved).m4a

But look pictures and Dazmode review of Coolstream XE I have conclusion that later models maybe arrive with different/better solution for housing.
Even than at least twice thicker housing would be much better.

This is Coolstream PE (first Coolstream radiator)
You see obvious space between radiator core and housing and some small pads from unknown material, maybe sponge maybe something harder prevent core to "swim" in housing and radiator core is not painted, have color of rust etc as most radiators.


On other picture is Coolstream XE who can't fit inside my case and too thick radiator for my needs is completely different, core is painted to black and not small pads. Because of that housing is probably much harder.
I don't have allen key 8 and 9 miss me from all from EKWB site, 9 is very hard to find, but I find, they are 0.3 euro peace in my country.
Than I will have all Allen Keys from EKWB sites. 8 is for ACF Fittings, 9 is probably for radiator ports?

But always have chance that somewhere on ports is not good attached...and core move left and right.

On last picture is XSPC AX360 housing, you see that's at least 3 times thicker aluminium housing.
I don't know why they save cost on PC industry on aluminium and stainless steal,
price we payed for components say that we absolutely deserve them more.
 

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I can’t log from pc on forum and write from iphone. Its not problem with radiator. I meanh he is ok probably but housing on coostrem pe is little separate from core something keep them together as i saw on picture and on my radiator is not tight and you se how core move inside housing on one side, ports and produce noise. If i saw good only pe version have some small peaces between core and housing. I save that noise and send to ekwb and they say definitely is not normal. I thouht first screws are in box because i heared noise before unboxing. I think ekwb or even me could fix that but im not sure. I will post when i se where is problem with site i never had such log problems.


Here is problem, I'm 99% sure EKWB technical support could fit that if they allow me RMA.
I doubt core of radiator is fault, only maybe ports. I can't estimate is it radiator core bad attached on ports or something between radiator core and housing is removed.
I saved audio keeping radiaor in vertical position and removing left right 5-10cm.

http://www.mediafire.com/file/96ce8aktu5s6ouu/Recording+(autosaved).m4a

But look pictures and Dazmode review of Coolstream XE I have conclusion that later models maybe arrive with different/better solution for housing.
Even than at least twice thicker housing would be much better.

This is Coolstream PE (first Coolstream radiator)
You see obvious space between radiator core and housing and some small pads from unknown material, maybe sponge maybe something harder prevent core to "swim" in housing and radiator core is not painted, have color of rust etc as most radiators.


On other picture is Coolstream XE who can't fit inside my case and too thick radiator for my needs is completely different, core is painted to black and not small pads. Because of that housing is probably much harder.
I don't have allen key 8 and 9 miss me from all from EKWB site, 9 is very hard to find, but I find, they are 0.3 euro peace in my country.
Than I will have all Allen Keys from EKWB sites. 8 is for ACF Fittings, 9 is probably for radiator ports?

But always have chance that somewhere on ports is not good attached...and core move left and right.

On last picture is XSPC AX360 housing, you see that's at least 3 times thicker aluminium housing.
I don't know why they save cost on PC industry on aluminium and stainless steal,
price we payed for components say that we absolutely deserve them more.
Hi there

I have used PE pr XE radiator from EK and never have issues and never heard about the moving core inside the shell of radiator, this shouldn't happen

Hopefully EK will sort it out, if not then not sure there

650D is pretty small case for water cooling and in yours case I would have look on MO-ra3 360mm or 420mm as first and would forgot on internal mounting of radiator or I would add 240mm or 360mm and MO-ra3 360mm

This combo would be perfect for yours build, have used in small cases one 360mm radiator and added external radiator like is MO-ra3 360mm to loop and friend running 6*GPUs setup fpr rendering and this setup keep his GPU in very reasonable temperatures in rendering, highest temperature on GPU we are seen in 42-45°C that's on hottest card and on coldest card we are seen 36-38°C, CPU is same as I have 5960x and on CPU we are seen highest temperature in high 60's to mid 70's

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's not small 650D for watercooling only need to be organized properly.
Actually next build will be much much smaller case, for mATX.
because of that I properly estimate nice pump/res combo to fit me and even in smaller case. XRes D5 Revo 100 Glass.
Optical Bay and HDD Bays go out. In my case motherboard tray is not wide as case, there is hole on front and measures fit perfectly 360mm radiator in vertical position. If I remove useless HDD Docking on top I could even install and on top.
Than if you have place for radiator 280-360mm it's not big deal you attach pump and res in on fans with Universal Pump Bracket.
 

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I've learned that using any kind of clear or colored tubing is going to be garbage. I've gone with EK ZMT and i don't regret it one bit. Not only does it bend how it should, and can bend quite tight, it also has no plasticizer and doesn't evaporate nearly as fast as clear or colored.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I've learned that using any kind of clear or colored tubing is going to be garbage. I've gone with EK ZMT and i don't regret it one bit. Not only does it bend how it should, and can bend quite tight, it also has no plasticizer and doesn't evaporate nearly as fast as clear or colored.
And I liked them most, I would order immediately but I'm big fan of 10/13mm fittings and 10/12mm and EKWB had only 16/10 ZMT. I would order them immediately.
I even think that manufacturers should build smaller equipment for small PCs with smaller diameter than G 1/4 and 8/10mm tubbing size example.
That would be really cool building watercooling of Mini ITX and Mini GPUs with smaller watercooling equipment.
Soon I will order from Mayhem 3m Clear and 3m Norprene.

For me only flat glass tubes are nicer than Norprene, not PEGT or Acrylic.
Anyway will be time to change everything, bravest step is to someone decide to buy watercooling first.
Special someone who is in bad economic region as me, where people usually every euro invest in some specific hardware and keep one AIO years.
On my place someone would rather order Samsung 970 EVO 1TB than watercooling.
But than when you enter once it's much easier later and I could try different fittings, different tubings, there is nice market for used stuff in my country because no one dare to import from EKWB or other people because they need to pay 30% custom tax, and if someothing show up in good condition could be sold almost as new.

And I used space in time until Intel launch next gen core with fixed bug to build watercooling, monitor, and similar stuff.
I will use X99 longer and than when they fix everything I will upgrade platform.
 

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And I liked them most, I would order immediately but I'm big fan of 10/13mm fittings and 10/12mm and EKWB had only 16/10 ZMT. I would order them immediately.
I even think that manufacturers should build smaller equipment for small PCs with smaller diameter than G 1/4 and 8/10mm tubbing size example.
That would be really cool building watercooling of Mini ITX and Mini GPUs with smaller watercooling equipment.
Soon I will order from Mayhem 3m Clear and 3m Norprene.

For me only flat glass tubes are nicer than Norprene, not PEGT or Acrylic.
Anyway will be time to change everything, bravest step is to someone decide to buy watercooling first.
Special someone who is in bad economic region as me, where people usually every euro invest in some specific hardware and keep one AIO years.
On my place someone would rather order Samsung 970 EVO 1TB than watercooling.
But than when you enter once it's much easier later and I could try different fittings, different tubings, there is nice market for used stuff in my country because no one dare to import from EKWB or other people because they need to pay 30% custom tax, and if someothing show up in good condition could be sold almost as new.

And I used space in time until Intel launch next gen core with fixed bug to build watercooling, monitor, and similar stuff.
I will use X99 longer and than when they fix everything I will upgrade platform.
3mms isn't much but if you're dead set on 10/13 instead of 10/16 then yea Id look at something else. Problem is 16mm outer diameter is going to be more flexible and less prone to kinking then 13mm. Try and look at fishtank or automotive tubing or even food grade tubing those can't have any plasticizer in em.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
EKWB told me to ask RMA for Coolstrem PE, they will try to help if they can. Very nice from them.
Now I check again, radiator core move on opposite side of 2 ports.
On place with 2 ports for fitting no moving. That mean radiator is 99% sealed, fins are normal, no damage, no scratches, nothing, except 3-4mm move on opposite end of cores.
So small, annoying and stupid problem who probably can't cause leaking problems, but make more anger than completely broken radiator.
I doubht that could influence on leak at all, I mean it's bigger chance than under normal conditions but radiator look OK except that little thing.
 

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I am temporarily using 13/10 Mayhems Ultra Clear since I had Bitspower fittings new and unused from the past. I won't keep it for more than 1-2 months and will be replacing everything with hard tubing besides the two lines that connect my external radiator that will use neoprene.

All my fittings/adapters are Bitspower and did not have to use hot water or any other trick to push the tubing to the fittings. They go in nicely but if I take them out they need a new cut since the ends have been shaped on the fitting.

The loop is only two weeks old and I took great care with cleaning it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I know that should go normal. I told you can estimate nice how much force need when you look video clips.
I think EKWB is aware of this problem with tubing because experienced users on overclock.uk couldn't install.

I will not buy other fittings, Bitspower or something else, I will use EKWB, off course until someone not launch Stainless Steal compression fittings.
Than I will replace immediately whole set. fittings, adapters, male to male rottary, ball valve.
That's far dominant material compare tu brass, surface and threads are more durable and deserve price we payed for them.
Stainless steal is easy for cleaning, in boiling water with detergent or you could clean with finger everything, much harder dirth collect on inner part of fitting.
I don't know why no one invented them for now. And fittings could last forever if manufacturer decide to engrave logo not print him, customers only need to change O-rings after longer time.

I live in Europe. I must stay with Mayhem on watercooling.de because it's closest to me.
Where is tygon available?

I would design nice flat compression fittings, not brushed, but not shine, most common luke of stainless steal, engrave small logo of company and made two small spots for tool to tight them easier.
Maybe now when I recommendem someone will decide to launch SS series of compression fittings. I think they could be used with copper and aluminium as well. He can't corrode on normal environment.
Special better models of SS.
 
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