Joined
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79 Posts
I am looking to replace the stock single 120 with 2X120's. Would high static pressure Corsairs etc be a good option, or if not, which units would you guys recommend?
Recommended replacement for stock CM EVO 212 for Push/Pull
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
The Blademaster that comes with the 212 Plus has better static pressure than the XtraFlo that comes with the 212 Evo.
In my opinion the Blademaster is one of the best budget PWM fans.
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069
In my opinion the Blademaster is one of the best budget PWM fans.
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069
Joined
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79 Posts
Is static pressure something I want as high as possible? I saw some Silverstones with really high numbers and decent bearings, but is this the way to go? Also noise isn't too much of an issue for me. I don't care too much about budget unless each fan is suddenly 25+ CAD/Fan.
Fans with good static pressure is recommended to any heatsink and radiators.
Look at post #154:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning/150#post_18149425
Although I believe you don't really need fans with too high static pressure like Delta's or the H100 stock fans in the 212.
Look at post #10:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1243376/best-120mm-fan-for-hyper-212-evo#post_17008211
I would say go with any well recommended fans that you like.
I don't know about Silverstone's but I've heard nice things about them.
![thumb.gif]()
Look at post #154:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning/150#post_18149425
Although I believe you don't really need fans with too high static pressure like Delta's or the H100 stock fans in the 212.
Look at post #10:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1243376/best-120mm-fan-for-hyper-212-evo#post_17008211
I would say go with any well recommended fans that you like.
I don't know about Silverstone's but I've heard nice things about them.
Joined
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5,561 Posts
Yes, you are correct in that static pressure is the key spec for fans which are to be used on heatsinks/radiators, as well as case intake fans or any other fan with a notable amount of restriction.
Airflow, usually given as CFM (occasionally as CMH), and static pressure, most commonly given as mm or in H2O, are inversely related because as resistance increases the Fan is essentially sacrificing some of its maximum potential flow in order to overcome the obstacle.
My absolute favorite bang-for-the-buck heatsink and rad fans are the Koolance 120x25 & 120x38 2600rpm fans. They put out 106/117CFM and 5.4/6.4mmH2O, respectively, and use dual ball bearing motors. Best of all, they only cost $9/$10 each!
The amount of air moved by these fans is absolutely nothing short of insane, and for the power they possess they are not what I would consider loud. Their noise profile is almost entirely just the whooshing of air, with no motor noises/grinding/squeaking/etc. They do respond very well to undervolting, so you can slow them down without issue.
If you are intent on extracting the absolute maximum amount of performance possible from the 212+, this is how I'd do it:
- Remove rear case exhaust fan and cut out the grill, replacing it with a circle wire fan grill to knock restriction down from 35-55 to 3-7 percent.
- 2 Koolance 120x38 2600rpm fans in push pull
- 2x 20-25mm Fan Shrouds between each fan and the actual heatsink (you can use the frames of old/dead fans the same diameter to make a cheap but effective shroud)
- 4x Rubber Fan Gaskets to use between the fans and shrouds and the shrouds and heatsink, giving you the benefit of reduced vibration as well as a much better seal
- If possible, position the 212+ so that it is intaking from the rear where the exhaust used to be, which gives it direct access to cool air instead of recirculated hot case air; ideally you would want to have topcase fFans which would be the exhaust
- Use the best thermal interface material you can, and don't be afraid to remount the cooler if temps aren't as good as you would like. I am a big fan of Prolimatech PK1, and while I have not used it myself, I have heard that the PK3 is a very worthy successor. Either one is excellent.
If that doesn't drop temps, I don't know what will...
Airflow, usually given as CFM (occasionally as CMH), and static pressure, most commonly given as mm or in H2O, are inversely related because as resistance increases the Fan is essentially sacrificing some of its maximum potential flow in order to overcome the obstacle.
My absolute favorite bang-for-the-buck heatsink and rad fans are the Koolance 120x25 & 120x38 2600rpm fans. They put out 106/117CFM and 5.4/6.4mmH2O, respectively, and use dual ball bearing motors. Best of all, they only cost $9/$10 each!
The amount of air moved by these fans is absolutely nothing short of insane, and for the power they possess they are not what I would consider loud. Their noise profile is almost entirely just the whooshing of air, with no motor noises/grinding/squeaking/etc. They do respond very well to undervolting, so you can slow them down without issue.
If you are intent on extracting the absolute maximum amount of performance possible from the 212+, this is how I'd do it:
- Remove rear case exhaust fan and cut out the grill, replacing it with a circle wire fan grill to knock restriction down from 35-55 to 3-7 percent.
- 2 Koolance 120x38 2600rpm fans in push pull
- 2x 20-25mm Fan Shrouds between each fan and the actual heatsink (you can use the frames of old/dead fans the same diameter to make a cheap but effective shroud)
- 4x Rubber Fan Gaskets to use between the fans and shrouds and the shrouds and heatsink, giving you the benefit of reduced vibration as well as a much better seal
- If possible, position the 212+ so that it is intaking from the rear where the exhaust used to be, which gives it direct access to cool air instead of recirculated hot case air; ideally you would want to have topcase fFans which would be the exhaust
- Use the best thermal interface material you can, and don't be afraid to remount the cooler if temps aren't as good as you would like. I am a big fan of Prolimatech PK1, and while I have not used it myself, I have heard that the PK3 is a very worthy successor. Either one is excellent.
If that doesn't drop temps, I don't know what will...
Joined
·
79 Posts
Quote:
Cheers!
Thank you so much for your in depth post! I will definitely use some if not most of the advice here as I have heard of Koolance before, and this only serves to cement this.Originally Posted by nleksan
Yes, you are correct in that static pressure is the key spec for fans which are to be used on heatsinks/radiators, as well as case intake fans or any other fan with a notable amount of restriction.
Airflow, usually given as CFM (occasionally as CMH), and static pressure, most commonly given as mm or in H2O, are inversely related because as resistance increases the Fan is essentially sacrificing some of its maximum potential flow in order to overcome the obstacle.
My absolute favorite bang-for-the-buck heatsink and rad fans are the Koolance 120x25 & 120x38 2600rpm fans. They put out 106/117CFM and 5.4/6.4mmH2O, respectively, and use dual ball bearing motors. Best of all, they only cost $9/$10 each!
The amount of air moved by these fans is absolutely nothing short of insane, and for the power they possess they are not what I would consider loud. Their noise profile is almost entirely just the whooshing of air, with no motor noises/grinding/squeaking/etc. They do respond very well to undervolting, so you can slow them down without issue.
If you are intent on extracting the absolute maximum amount of performance possible from the 212+, this is how I'd do it:
- Remove rear case exhaust fan and cut out the grill, replacing it with a circle wire fan grill to knock restriction down from 35-55 to 3-7 percent.
- 2 Koolance 120x38 2600rpm fans in push pull
- 2x 20-25mm Fan Shrouds between each fan and the actual heatsink (you can use the frames of old/dead fans the same diameter to make a cheap but effective shroud)
- 4x Rubber Fan Gaskets to use between the fans and shrouds and the shrouds and heatsink, giving you the benefit of reduced vibration as well as a much better seal
- If possible, position the 212+ so that it is intaking from the rear where the exhaust used to be, which gives it direct access to cool air instead of recirculated hot case air; ideally you would want to have topcase fFans which would be the exhaust
- Use the best thermal interface material you can, and don't be afraid to remount the cooler if temps aren't as good as you would like. I am a big fan of Prolimatech PK1, and while I have not used it myself, I have heard that the PK3 is a very worthy successor. Either one is excellent.
If that doesn't drop temps, I don't know what will...
Cheers!
Joined
·
79 Posts
Quote:
Thank you for the reply! The posts were helpful!Originally Posted by edsai
Fans with good static pressure is recommended to any heatsink and radiators.
Look at post #154:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning/150#post_18149425
Although I believe you don't really need fans with too high static pressure like Delta's or the H100 stock fans in the 212.
Look at post #10:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1243376/best-120mm-fan-for-hyper-212-evo#post_17008211
I would say go with any well recommended fans that you like.
I don't know about Silverstone's but I've heard nice things about them.![thumb.gif]()
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
