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Meddling user
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Hey all. Got my Ryzen rig set up last week and been tweaking memory with DRAM Calculator. My question is should I change the tRFC 2 and 4 settings? Just curious since it's grayed out in the calculator yet the others are highlighted red.
I leave them on [Auto], see link.

Trcpage [Auto]
Trfc2 [Auto]
Trfc4 [Auto]
Trdwr [Auto]

All above will be kept [Auto] when you load any of The Stilt's RAM Timings presets. I have seen at times Trdwr will differ post to post for each channel. I assume that is the reason it is kept [Auto] as the POST training may determine it needs x channel slightly out of skew from other.

0001WMI tRDWR not same.jpg
 

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French nerd
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928 Posts
I leave them on [Auto], see link.

Trcpage [Auto]
Trfc2 [Auto]
Trfc4 [Auto]
Trdwr [Auto]

All above will be kept [Auto] when you load any of The Stilt's RAM Timings presets. I have seen at times Trdwr will differ post to post for each channel. I assume that is the reason it is kept [Auto] as the POST training may determine it needs x channel slightly out of skew from other.

View attachment 224256

You shouldn't let tRFC/2/4 on Auto.
If your RAM is stable with txxxxSCL=2, tRFC can be lowered much below 400.
In more, tRFC2=440 while tRFC=400 makes no sense. Your RAM should not even be stable with such values.
 

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Meddling user
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7,423 Posts
I can use SCL 2 on all RAM kits I've owned and on all setups I do not set the timings as stated above. I have 100s of hours worth of various testing under the belts of C6H, C7H and ZE. On the ZE there is another timing which I leave on [Auto] as per The Stilt's guidance for X399 when using quad kit, again I have sound results.

I never said I leave trfc on [Auto], only 2/4.
 

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Is it better to round up or round down the three tRFC values that the calculator spits out? Lastly, do the tRFC values tie into any other RAM setting or depend on any other RAM setting? If that doesn't make sense, are they calculated based off of any other timings? If not, is it safe to assume you can tweak them as you'd wish without any using specific numbers? Thanks. I've always wondered this.
 

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French nerd
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928 Posts
Is it better to round up or round down the three tRFC values that the calculator spits out? Lastly, do the tRFC values tie into any other RAM setting or depend on any other RAM setting? If that doesn't make sense, are they calculated based off of any other timings? If not, is it safe to assume you can tweak them as you'd wish without any using specific numbers? Thanks. I've always wondered this.

It's better to round up but it's doesn't make a significant difference. You may as well round to the closest.

The tRFC values are not directly linked to other timings but there's no benefit to have loose tRFCs and tight timings or tight tRFCs and loose timings.


BTW, here are my timings at 3433 Mhz with BCLK at 103:



And the AIDA scores it gives with my very first gen 1700 at 3785 MHz:

 

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Meddling user
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7,423 Posts
Lastly, do the tRFC values tie into any other RAM setting or depend on any other RAM setting? If that doesn't make sense, are they calculated based off of any other timings? If not, is it safe to assume you can tweak them as you'd wish without any using specific numbers? Thanks. I've always wondered this.
Tweak as you need, no rule based on other timings for tRFC to set it, that was answer from The Stilt when I asked within this thread.

If I took any 2 dimms from these kits:-

F4-3200C14D-16GTZ
F4-3200C14Q-32GTZSW
F4-3200C14Q-32GVK

Used same CPU/MOBO/UEFI, etc, and tweaked tRFC each sampling could end up at slightly differing tRFC. So in that testing RAM IC "quality" was probably the determination for how tight I could get tRFC.
 

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Banned
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I'm wondering if anyone can help me.


Been playing with stock settings on my 1700X as I'm getting bored of changing my overclock etc.



Is it possible to overclock the BCLK and keep XFR working? Don't seem to be able to get it to work. When I do 104 bclk it increases the clock speed to 3640mhz but it doesn't seem to go above that? Is there something I'm doing wrong?


Thanks
 

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Meddling user
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7,423 Posts
First would like to share what I saw in Turbo V few days ago. CPU Aux 3.3V goes to 3.6V when left on [Auto] when OC'ing.


This has made me now set all voltages manually.

Secondly I'd read recently members sharing that P95 set to use high RAM is better test than RAM tests. Personally for lengthy while I have thought it is best to do round of all tests if wanting high stability. I have seen x program last for y length, then you fire another program and boom the OC profile falls flat quickly. Each test "we" may do, the HW/settings used maybe more or less sensitive to, so doing various tests may help evolve settings better/quicker.

As show before in a recent post I had passes of 3400MHz 4x8GB in 2 versions of P95 greater than 8hrs. I could also roll down SOC based on those tests if did not run for longer length. In that same post I also shared HCI test screens. One instance was a rerun on same POST of system. Why I do that is once I noted on my rig that after say passing HCI for quite decent length (>4hrs), the moment I rerun it on same POST I had errors. I repeatedly saw this on same settings, so now not only do I rerun tests on differing POSTs but also same POST.

Seems as if GSAT was exposing lack of SOC voltage. I tried tweaks of looser timings and or ProcODT/CAD Bus changes plus VDIMM/VTTDDR. I still had fails in GSAT, SOC of 1.081V seems to have fixed setup. Below is video of end of test plus settings used.


Settings used txt:-

View attachment 6301_4.1_3400GT2_v4_setting.txt
 

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1,596 Posts
Thanks man! Does the asus audio manager and sonic suite still work?



Used the method here
https://github.com/alanfox2000/realtek-universal-audio-driver

(The third party mentioned in the structure would be A-Volute for Asus)

found through these discussion threads on TenForums/Station-Drivers
https://www.tenforums.com/drivers-hardware/5993-latest-realtek-hd-audio-driver-version.html
https://www.station-drivers.com/ind...&view=topic&catid=18&id=17&Itemid=858&lang=en

As for the app store links
https://www.microsoft.com/store/productId/9N81C41DQ5SJ
https://www.microsoft.com/store/productId/9P2B8MCSVPLN

The apps only work through this driver set style though.
I found it because i was having audio issues and so far these have worked/sounded far better...that and Asus support on the matter was useless and drove me to other methods.

I think the issue with the drivers on the board page is the Nahimic dlls are now outdated and can cause issues in at least 10 v1809
 

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Just a tip, if you look at some of their newer boards you can find the Realtek_Audio_Driver_WIN10-64_V6.0.1.8507_1012 which hasn't made it to the CH6 yet, it also has the new windows store apps as well.


Used the method here
https://github.com/alanfox2000/realtek-universal-audio-driver

(The third party mentioned in the structure would be A-Volute for Asus)

found through these discussion threads on TenForums/Station-Drivers
https://www.tenforums.com/drivers-hardware/5993-latest-realtek-hd-audio-driver-version.html
https://www.station-drivers.com/ind...&view=topic&catid=18&id=17&Itemid=858&lang=en

As for the app store links
https://www.microsoft.com/store/productId/9N81C41DQ5SJ
https://www.microsoft.com/store/productId/9P2B8MCSVPLN

The apps only work through this driver set style though.
I found it because i was having audio issues and so far these have worked/sounded far better...that and Asus support on the matter was useless and drove me to other methods.

I think the issue with the drivers on the board page is the Nahimic dlls are now outdated and can cause issues in at least 10 v1809
 

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For some reason some people seem to have issues cooling a 2700X with coolers that are more than adequate as shown by those two people above :/
I can’t be sure but it doesn’t seem like they’re running as hot as they say they are when it happens. For example my H115i was apparently awful at cooling my 2700X - stress tests were in the 80s and 90s but the air coming through the radiator did not feel crazily hot and the coolant temp was maxing out at 40ish. I don’t get it. But the same cooler worked flawlessly with an 1800X I used to have so god knows what the deal is. There’s more people with this problem but nothing was ever really discovered about it and this was last talked about months ago.

I actually have that issue with the 1700x, can you at least feel warm air though? When I stress I'm at 75ish (tdie) real temp, and the rads are cool to the touch as well is my block.

When you say 80-90c are you talking tdie without the 20c offset?
 

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French nerd
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928 Posts
I actually have that issue with the 1700x, can you at least feel warm air though? When I stress I'm at 75ish (tdie) real temp, and the rads are cool to the touch as well is my block.

When you say 80-90c are you talking tdie without the 20c offset?
This happened to me with an Eisbaer 280 + a 120 radiator.
The 120 rad was only slightly warm while the 280 was cold and the CPU at 1.23V reached 78°C.
The culprit was the pump that didn't do its job properly any longer.

I RMAed it for the second time, asking for a refund because this new failure made me sick of watercooling.
Since, my PC is cooled by a NH-D15 which is more efficient and reliable than any AIO.
Only an expensive custom watercooling would be more efficient.
 

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I actually have that issue with the 1700x, can you at least feel warm air though? When I stress I'm at 75ish (tdie) real temp, and the rads are cool to the touch as well is my block.

When you say 80-90c are you talking tdie without the 20c offset?
Warmish sure, but not nearly as hot as I would expect it to be if the temperature it was reporting was actually accurate. Like my GPU when it's sitting on 67ish degrees while gaming you can feel the heat near the GPU easily while there's almost none coming from the CPU area.
And yeah that's without the offset ._.
 

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Meddling user
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Is it not possible to disable BGS/BGSA as recommended in the ryzen ram calculator anymore?
BGSA stills shows as enabled for me...
Been non functioning on X370/X470 for while, does work on X399.
 

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Warmish sure, but not nearly as hot as I would expect it to be if the temperature it was reporting was actually accurate. Like my GPU when it's sitting on 67ish degrees while gaming you can feel the heat near the GPU easily while there's almost none coming from the CPU area.
And yeah that's without the offset ._.

Yeah, same here lol. I have two 420mm rads though, so I guess they are efficient, nothing is ever really more than warm to the touch though, but it does get pretty warm sitting next to it when it's chugging along air-temp wise.
 

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Yeah, same here lol. I have two 420mm rads though, so I guess they are efficient, nothing is ever really more than warm to the touch though, but it does get pretty warm sitting next to it when it's chugging along air-temp wise.
I’m still below the throttling and thermal shutdown thresholds especially now I’ve replaced my cooler with a Noctua one so I guess I’m just going to carry on doing what I’m doing. Everything is seemingly stable and I think I’ve reached a “finished” state until I get the overclock itch again lol or the desire to start tinkering and swapping stuff. Just like I said before I found it extremely hard to believe a 280mm AIO couldn’t keep this chip below 80 degrees despite remounting the thing multiple times and it working fine with a previous gen cpu.
 

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I’m still below the throttling and thermal shutdown thresholds especially now I’ve replaced my cooler with a Noctua one so I guess I’m just going to carry on doing what I’m doing. Everything is seemingly stable and I think I’ve reached a “finished” state until I get the overclock itch again lol or the desire to start tinkering and swapping stuff. Just like I said before I found it extremely hard to believe a 280mm AIO couldn’t keep this chip below 80 degrees despite remounting the thing multiple times and it working fine with a previous gen cpu.

Yeah well, think of this: My 1700x will hit 75c at 3.8 1.33v with two massive 420 rads, a decent pump, top rad is push pull 2x200mm fans and 3x140mm fans, the front one is only push with 2 200mm fans, nothing else on the loop, and still, hotter than I'd like.:Snorkle:
The two major drawbacks of my cooling system is 1. The top rad is setup as exhaust, so intake is warm inside tower air (didn't wan't to have to deal with dust) and 2. The front rad, there's no room to do push and pull, had to settle on push.


Going to eventually upgrade my block and pump again since mines only 4m of pressure head and 800l/h of flow
 

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Ya, only other thing i did was used DDU for complete audio removal before doing all this or if i messed up just to be sure, lol
Yeah, same thing with 8553 UAD driver.
@matthew87 you forgot to create the ThirtyParty folder and put the A-Volute folder inside it before the sausage creation.
It's working perfectly for me now, here's the link to the driver for the C6H :)

BTW, C7H Wifi got PiR 1.0.0.6 AGESA today.
Wonder if it's got something interesting
Thanks guys, didn't realise you 'had' to include the A-Volute 3rd party folder too. I thought it was 'optional', i've always run with the logic of 'the less crap the better'.

None the less, redid the 'sausage' and no issues whatsoever running 8553 driver and Realtek's UWP app to control audio.

As for temps, i have a Corsair H110i V2 and a 1700x at stock clocks running 3333mhz RAM and slight bump to memory controller voltage 1.067v. Last night 1.5 hours of BF1 and the CPU's max temp was 53 degrees Celcius / 127.4 Fahrenheit. Paste is some Coolmaster stuff.

Honestly i've never once ever had an issue with temps on this CPU. It is paired next to a heavily overclocked custom ROM flashed AMD 390 too, that card's pumping out the heat. Something seriously wrong if a 240/280mm custom or AIO cooler can't keep a Ryzen chip cool at moderate overclocks.
 

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Anyone else having issues with vdroop on the soc voltage? I have mine set to 1.14 in the bios yet in windows it shows 1.125 in hwinfo and RTC. Tried setting LLC to level 1 to no effect so I just have it on auto now. Is it just a sensor error?
 
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