Why didn't you use kapton tape / high temp polyimide tape like I suggested several times in this thread?In attempting a shunt mod, I appear to have bridged the resistor to the an existing connection on the PCB board.
I'm assuming I'm going to need to clean this up, no clue where what this is connected to.
Sure, the very experienced solderers may be able to get away with not using it, but this is absolutely something a novice should NOT skip!
I may get flamed for it but I'll keep suggesting people do it, even if the hotshots keep flaming me for it, until I get banned. Because I don't care about hotshot ultra popular people.
Use either this
Chemtronics 80-1-10 Braid, DESOLDERING, Rosin SD, 10FT: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
to get the solder off.
And don't leave it there. Could be one of the 12v lines.
Then when you clean it all off, properly cover around the shunts with this.
Make sure you are using flux when applying shunts, and flux after every single step.
And why do you have so much solder on top of the shunt? You should be building a solder bridge inside the "FE gap" (the lower part of the original shunts, by the black housing), so when you put the new shunt on top (once again fluxing both before and after), you then melt the solder bridge between the original and new shunt, so then shunts are now flush. Then carefully siphon the excess solder off back to the iron.
It's a lot easier to solder shunts that dont have depressed metal edges (e.g. the 1W flush shunts on the Asus, MSI and eVGA cards), as then you don't need to even do that 'bridge' first.