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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
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General idea was to use fairly low TDP components. I knew the motherboard would run very cool from prior experience. The ram is very efficient/stable as well. The GPU could definitely be more efficient, but the gpu craze was still in full swing (at the time), and the 1080ti does still perform well enough for me.

Specs are as follows:

Revolt 3 case with optional IBP 700W gold psu, Gigabyte b550i pro ax, 5600X, reference (low profile) 1080ti with slim EK waterblock, 2x16gb trident z royal cl14 3600, 970 evo plus 2tb

Cooling consists of a Bykski 280mm copper rad paired with a barrow 240mm copper rad. The 240mm rad is on custom brackets made from aircraft sheet aluminum, nothing fancy. It sits in front of the GPU where there is not supposed to be a radiator in this case. It's paired with 2 Arctic P12 slim fans. The 280mm radiator sits on the mounts provided for what most anyone would attach an AIO to. Using two Arctic P14 fans here. All four radiator fans running push/exhaust. They are all conveniently and neatly daisychained to eachother, and using one fan header. I didn't have to use any adaptors or anything. These fans have a great sound profile as well, and create good pressure to boot.

There is no reservoir in this loop, and no room anywhere for a pump either.... unless....

The waterpump is integrated into the Cpu waterblock. Now, be warned.... This integrated pump/block combo is designed very poorly. Theres nothing wrong with the pump, or the block... But the way it is arranged causes it to trap air, and it's almost... if not actually impossible to get all of the air out of it unless you use another pump in series.
I have it working now.... But it was seriously painful. Basicially I spent close to 10 hours initially trying to work all of the air out of this thing, following the factory instructions, ect. No dice. Eventually I managed to get some water behind my GPU waterblock and it fried. $200 and a month later, got my 1080ti working again. I hooked up another waterpump outside of the case with a reservoir to get the air out, and it was still a pain. But I got it done, and removed the extra pump. Put a T fitting in it's place.

At any rate... It runs Forza pretty well. (stable over 90fps in cockpit with these settings).
Font Screenshot Technology Software Multimedia


Here is also some temps afer runing Forza for a good 20 minutes. Keep in mind this board is passive cooled. :cool:
Font Screenshot Technology Parallel Pattern


I'm sure in the future I'll need to upgrade the GPU, but I've already got a rx6800/6900 waterblock that will fit in here. (y)
 

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Very nice! :) What was the total invested time in the build?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd estimate somewhere around 55-60 hours from planning, acquisition, assembly, fab, and finalizing.

It took a good bit of time to figure out what exactly would fit in here, and I had to aquire the case, first. Most of the time was spent getting air out, lol. A good chunk went to making mounts for the cpu block/pump as they had originally sent me Intel brackets by mistake. There is also a custom clear cmos switch and jumper I made, since there was no button for this board, just two prongs that would be hard to access if needed.

Odly enough... In opposite fashion of my 5800x rig, this one just plain works. I havnt fiddled with ram timings or any settings for the cpu. I know 5600x imc's can be a bit weak, so I just left it at 1800fclk and simply enabled xmp on the ram (3600 cl14). The gpu I've used before, so I already knew it's limits, so it is over-clocked. I basically used no time dialing in the bios or anything, it just works.
 

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Twin Turbski
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The waterpump is integrated into the Cpu waterblock. Now, be warned.... This integrated pump/block combo is designed very poorly. Theres nothing wrong with the pump, or the block... But the way it is arranged causes it to trap air, and it's almost... if not actually impossible to get all of the air out of it unless you use another pump in series.
I have it working now.... But it was seriously painful. Basicially I spent close to 10 hours initially trying to work all of the air out of this thing, following the factory instructions, ect. No dice.
Certain compact coolers require the entire pump (as it's running) to be totally immersed in coolant to remove all air from the system. I am interested in how they recommended bleeding that waterpump/waterblock combo in original instructions? I have a plan to use it for a liquid metal cooling project because it's so compact, but that sucks you didn't have good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm struggling to find any instructions now... but it does have a fill port on it. It didn't seem to do any better than filling the loop from anywhere else.

It seemed the biggest issue I was met with was getting enough air out of the pump for it to achieve any real momentum. That and my loop is just an absolute mess. radiator in/outs opposite from eachother. GPU and cpu in the middle. Any way you tilt the case, air is trying to get trapped somewhere in it.
 

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Twin Turbski
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I'm struggling to find any instructions now... but it does have a fill port on it. It didn't seem to do any better than filling the loop from anywhere else.

It seemed the biggest issue I was met with was getting enough air out of the pump for it to achieve any real momentum. That and my loop is just an absolute mess. radiator in/outs opposite from eachother. GPU and cpu in the middle. Any way you tilt the case, air is trying to get trapped somewhere in it.
Sounds like it' be best to put it into a pain mixer then bleed it.

:ROFLMAO:
 
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