[Max78]

Hi all,

I'm looking to get one of these cases for a build and plan to change the PSU location.

can someone tell me the bottom to top inside clearance please?

 

[Max78]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7nationarmy

I'd suggest getting a different motherboard as the Gigabyte B350 itx's layout is pretty bad. The SATA, USB and 24-pin power sockets are on the exhaust vent side of the SG13 when installed. This will make thermals worse, especially when you are using an air cooler. The Cryorig C7 isn't particular powerful anyway.

600W is also way overkill for your build. A Corsair SF450 will do nicely (although it does not come with SFX-ATX bracket).

Also, I'd still recommend getting a closed loop water cooler/AIO for SG13. You will get better temps and thus noise. You can even use a 140mm one since you are using a very short GPU. Companies ship prebuilts PCs with AIO everyday, so I don't see why air transport will be a problem.
About 171mm.

Awesome, thanks for the measurement!!!

I got all my stuff on order, now I cant wait to start cutting away!!!

 

[Max78]

Got my case and started my build!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1645367/r7-1700-rx580-sugo-sg13b-q-build#post_26543642

 

[Max78]

Quote:

Originally Posted by carlskie86

need some expert advice building with this case..

i already have sg13b
gtx 1080 FE
planning to get ryzen5 1600x

what board, cpu cooler, psu should i get?

i was eyeing on gigabyte ab350n wifi but someone said it was a bad board for this case on previous post

After reading all the reviews I came to the conclusion that the best board for the money is the ASRock Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming-ITX, 8 phase power for the CPU and overclocks good. The ASRock Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming-ITX is great as well, but there really isnt much difference other than the chipset and I have no idea what difference that makes.

There are a couple reason why. One of the biggest is that memory is currently stupid expensive, and I could get 16gb of 3200mhz memory for $189, everything else was over $220. It's also on the memory QVL. Patriot Viper 4 PV416G320C6K. It can also support memory up to 3433mhz, and we all know Ryzen scales better with memory. It has in my opinion one of the better board layouts, it also comes with a pretty good wireless card as well.

When I installed everything it just worked, absolutely no drama. Selected XMP profile 2 and 3200mhz and again it just worked, without a bios update as well.

not sure on the CPU cooler as I am using the stocker, a SFX PSU will give you quite a bit more room for airflow but they can be pricey, and you will need an adapter because the SG13 is for a full size PSU.

 

[Max78]

Quote:

Originally Posted by carlskie86

thank you so much for all the inputs.. upon checking on the corsair website the ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Gaming-ITX/ac AM4 only needs an AM4 bracket for h75 AIO but the h60 is compatible with the existing AMD bracket out of the box. should i option out for an h60?
thanks so what board should i get? ASRock Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming-ITX 8 phase? instead of the regular ASRock Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming-ITX?

I was saying the ASRock Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming-ITX has an 8 phase power design, which is a little bit better than the other brand boards, it also seems to overclock well.

I would research the difference between the ASRock Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming-ITX and the ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Gaming-ITX and go from there. They both seem like a good solid pick.

 

[Max78]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Signaturisti

Can the front panel in B-Q (solid frontpanel) version be taken apart somehow? I'd like to reuse the little "tabs" through which the front panel is screwed into the case and maybe also the ones on top, because that way I could attach a new frontpanel more easily. It would be enough if the "frame" could be taken off... or do I just have to dremel it off? I don't mind dremeling, but always better to ask beforehand if it's easily taken apart. I do have a heatgun if that's needed.

I'm sure it can be taken apart, looking at the front panel it is indeed 2 separate pieces, The frame is separate from the aesthetic "brushed" front panel. It's most likely glued together.

I thought I had a picture of it but I don't, I will try to take one tonight if you don't get a response from someone else.

 

[Max78]

With the stock SG13 configuration a window on top of the case will give you a view of the PSU and the mess of cables that come out of it, thats about it. A solid window on the side where the GPU is will block the only vent keeping it cool.

in its stock configuration this case is not a "display" oriented case.

I modified my case so the PSU is in front of the case, that allowed me to free up a ton of room to have a half decent air cooling setup.

I would post pics but they all disappeared with the new site. . .

Here is my build thread if you are interested.

https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/sg13-front-mount-psu-build-stupid-pic-heavy.6329/

 

[Max78]

I am planning to do a Coffee Lake (probably i3-8100) in this case. I will not be needing a graphics card, and plan to get by with just an M.2 stick for storage (so no drive tray needed).

Since I will not be needing much wattage, I am considering a PicoPSU. With the PSU area opened up, I am wondering if I can fit a Cryorig H7. Has anyone done it?

Silverstone states a 61mm CPU cooler max height. And an ATX PSU is 86mm. Together, that comes out to 147mm.

A Cryorig H7 is 145mm, which on paper sounds like it would fit. If anyone has done this and can confirm, I would really appreciate it!

It should fit but I'm a little confused. You want to put an H7 heatsink on a locked 8100, why not just use the stock heatsink supplied?

 

[Max78]

I mean, even if it's locked, the H7 will keep it cooler and will probably not have to spin the fan as fast.

I understand that, but the CPU will continue to work with the stock cooler long after the system becomes obsolete. Just seems like an odd area to invest $35, maybe use that to get a slightly bigger SSD, or slightly faster RAM?

Unless they plan to keep the case and upgrade CPUs later down the road?

 

[Max78]

Thanks! Really glad it will work.



I want to make this a really quiet case. I am going to use a 140mm case fan and wanted to also use the Cryorig so I can keep things cool without spinning the fans too much.

Aah, ok. Super silent build! Makes sense now. :thumb:

 

[Max78]

I was informed of the Raijintek Metis after I modified my case to a similar layout. . .

It slightly larger than the SG13, but has a much better layout and cooling. It's also aluminum!

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

 

[Max78]

The VRM can be well within their specified operating temp and give you 3rd degree burns. . .

 

[Max78]

That is true, but I don't know whether it's running at 120c or 100c because they'll be both too hot. But at least 100c will give some headroom

You wont be able to feel any difference above 45°c and it will blister almost instantly at 80°c or above.

What I'm getting at is your finger is not going to be any kind of even semi-accurate thermometer, I would recommend getting an actual thermometer if you are worried.

Otherwise placing some fans on there wont hurt anything.

 

[Max78]

Hi guys,


I will soon join the SG13 club and I intend to mount a SFX PSU in front, giving extra space to mount taller CPU cooler (my Noctua D9L). I wonder what could be the best setup for an airflow to provide sufficient cooling to my CPU (a 65W Ryzen 2400G) and my GPU (RX580 Nitro+). I don't plan to make irreversible mods, but have access to 3D printer to print any housing or mount as I wish. Here's some of my thoughts:

• Front as exhaust. Mount a fan on top of motherboard. Block off original PSU cutout. The issue with this is the passage to exhaust will pass through the PSU, which will take up at least 100x125 of area. Adding in cables and the fact that the PSU will also have air flow, there may too many resistances to push air that way. Given there's only 90mm in depth to work with (and 64mm of them will be taken up by the PSU, leaving only 26mm), a slim fan of 15mm or lesser will be necessary. Will such fan, e.g. a Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12, be enough to suck hot air away? Of course, front dust filter will be taken away.
• Front as intake, top as intake, motherboard side as exhaust. Seems like a 92mm fan could fit on the right side. Again, front intake will suffer as it needs to push air through cables and the PSU. Will this cause too much positive pressure and affect the air intake from the GPU side?
• Front as intake, top as exhaust, motherboard side as another intake (?). I feel that a C-type cooler will work better this way, with the fan blowing from bottom to top. A top exhaust should ventilate pretty well for the GPU, but there won't be much fresh air for the PSU.
• Overhang the PSU in front (necessary since it's 100mm deep) and mount two 80mm fans below it to draw air from the front. Overhanging the PSU will clash with a huge C-type cooler, e.g. the Noctua C14S or bequiet Dark Rock TF. It will fit my current D9L, but I have always liked to have a C-type cooler, especially when I aim to upgrade to a 95W Ryzen in the future.
• Side 92mm intake for push-pull of my D9L (need to rotate it by 90 degree). Front intake dedicated for PSU. Top exhaust to suck hot air out.

What will be my best choice? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Good plan. I did the same thing but with a full size ATX PSU and printed a lot of mods. I have a link in my sig if you care to take a gander. If you want any of my files to print just ask.


If you don't want to mod then you are going to be venting the hot PSU into the case, that's one of many reasons I cut a hold in the bottom of my case. Its not going to vent well at all in the front of the case without a hole somewhere. If you absolutely cant bring yourself to cut, then I would intake the PSU from the motherboard side and vent it opposite of the GPU print a barrier to direct it out of the front of the case. That will probably be your best bet from a reversible standpoint.


Rather than blocking off my old ATX port I printed a mount that holds 2 thin 80mm Cooler Master fans there, that drastically improved temps across the board. My R7 1700 is stock but stays below 70° now with the stock cooler and Intel Burn Test.


Check out my thread for some pics, the upload isn't working on my end.

 

[Max78]

My i/o front panel is damaged. Is not easy to find the original one from Silvestone where I live.

I modeled the original assembly when I made a new front cover, I will pull some dimensions for you tonight.

 

[Max78]

Would this I/O fit into SG13?

Snip

Looks like the one you linked will probably be a no-go.

Here are the audio/USB dimensions that come off my SG13.

The notch on the upper right in the top view is very important because that is where a screw secures the board in place.

 

[Max78]

I'm considering this case, but I'm not sure if some of the components I have are really appropriate.

CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP-200 Muscle (73 mm)
GPU: MSI GTX 960 (open-air, 267 mm)

I have an SFX PSU, so the AXP-200 *might* fit, but I question how effective it will be in such a tight space. Also, the GPU will probably fit, but it's open-air.

What I would like is a case that is less than 300 mm in height, less than 20 L in volume, and good thermally. Considering the components I have, is the SG13 a good fit, or are there cases that will give much cooler temps given the constraints? I've looked at the Fractal Design Core 500 and Cougar QBX, but I'm not sure how much better they would be for temps. Thoughts?

You might be able to fit the Thermalright AXP-200 Muscle with an SFX PSU mounted high, however airflow will not be that great due to the PSU blocking a good portion of the air supply.



If you are interested, mounting the PSU in the front of the case and freeing up all the room above the CPU takes the case from being not very good thermally, to a pretty stellar performer when air cooling.

 

[Max78]

The best is if you have access to a 3D printer/laser cutter/CNC machine that can build an adapter that holds your PSU while being secured to either the front fan holes or bottom SSD holes.

That's what I was afraid of. I don't have access to a 3D printer, so I think I'll have to pass with this mod.

I was considering the SG08 as well, but it sounds like it's not a great case. That's a shame, because the size is great.

It really depends on what you are willing to do mod wise. I have 3d printed parts on my build, but i could have done my mods with some paper and off the shelf stuff.

If you are willing to cut into a new case to mount the psu similar to what i did, then all you need is a drill and dremel or tin snips.

I simply used printed parts because i have one and I'm always looking for an excuse to use it!

If you dont want to cut the case to mount it there are still some options given you have an SFX psu. You could mount on its side and use some double sided tape to keep it there. Might not be the most professional job ever, but a little time and attention to detail things can look great and no one would know the difference.

I believe there are a couple people out there that side mounted an sfx psu with great results.

The other thing is, if you plan to run your system at stock speeds then your setup will be just fine with psu mounted in its stock location.

I really like the SG13 and that's why I put so much effort into mine, its a great size and with some minor laout changes ir can be a great air cooling machine!

 

[Max78]

GPU temps are ok, not great because the massive cooler barely fits in the case and has a small area to exhaust the hot air.

If I knew I was going to end up in such a tiny case i would have gone with a blower style card, or maybe one that wasn't so massive.

When I play a game that really stresses it the fans will kick on and the thing gets stupid loud.

 

[Max78]

@Max78 Your BIG PSU seems to really take up space and made you have to do a bunch of mods to make things more workable, why didn't you think about investing in a smaller SFX PSU and simply reverse the plug orientation and mount it like 4cm off the bottom. Then you could have routed the plug out the back and kept all the other openings the same. Also since you might be into Vega theres a Sapphire Pulse Vega 56 card which is quite small, maybe it would help a bit with the thermals?

It is definitely a BIG PSU, I did that for a couple reasons.

I want to be able to overclock my system (CPU and GPU) after I get the build completely figured out and and feel the need to do so. So far I have don't see a need to overclock just yet.

So that put my wattage at a min of 550w for me, I would liked to have gone more but that was my other issue, money.

I had a VERY tight budget that I was working with, and I couldn't afford to splurge even a little for a better part, I had X amount of dollars to work with and that was it. I also like a challenge!

All of the SFX PSUs that had the wattage I was looking for were $85+, I purchased the one in my system for $35 on sale. As a result I was able to shift that $50 from the SFX PSU to my memory allowing me to get 16Gb 3200mhz RAM. There is also a much wider range of ATX size PSUs available if I feel the need to upgrade for whatever reason later down the road.