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Now that my loop is just about ready to setup, I need to decide which tubing to use, and buy coolant. With that in mind, I have some questions for the community.

In case it helps, I've attached a photo of my setup (sans tubing), and hopefully your answers will point me in the right direction.

As far as tubing, I already own a meter of Primochill Advanced LRT (3/8" x 5/8" and gloss white), and a meter of EK's matte black, "no maintenance" ZMT, but if there's a much better (for my use case) product available, I'm willing to go in a different direction.

Although I haven't yet developed an aesthetic preference, the Primochill seems a bit harder to attach to my EK Quantum Torque compression fittings, but the ZMT really isn't much easier. I'm honestly concerned I'll have to apply so much force while setting everything up that I'll end up destroying a rad or something accidentally.

Running the tube under hot water didn't help much either, as I suspect it cools down in the time it takes me to move from my sink to the case (and locate the fitting etc.)

Questions:

1. Is there any 3/8" x 5/8" tubing that's known to easily attach to most fittings? I know it probably varies from sample to sample, and the Quantum Torque fittings are new enough that there isn't a wealth of knowledge surrounding their utility, but I'd like to make the actual loop assembly as smooth as possible.

2. Assuming no magic tubing exists (although that's what I thought ZMT was supposed to be), are there any tricks I can employ to make attachment any easier?

3. Any reason to choose either Primochill or ZMT, other than aesthetics, or is there a third option I should consider? If I hadn't bought the satin titanium EK fittings as early in the process as I did, I'd probably go hardline (either acrylic, glass or metal), but I'm way past the return window.

4. I've been advised to thoroughly wash ZMT tubing prior to installation, but I'm not sure what that entails. Is flushing the tube with hot tap water for 30s enough, do I need to use Dawn liquid soap, or is it even more involved than that?

And do I need to do the same with Primochill Advanced LRT?

5. Regarding coolant, I'd prefer something pastel white, but not at the expense of simplicity, longevity and ease-of-use. If it's going to clog my hardware 10 days in, or require constant maintenance, I'll go with something easier. After all, unless I decide to switch to clear tubing, only the fluid in my res will be visible.

6. Any brands or specific products I should absolutely use, or conversely, absolutely avoid?

7. Finally, should I use any pre-treatment products before actually filling the loop? Mind, all components save my GPU are brand new, but the Primochill tubing did include two loop treatment/maintenance samples (the names of which I can't recall).

I've already washed both water blocks with distilled water and a drop of Dawn, and flushed both rads with Rad Clean (although almost nothing came out) if that matters.

I'm sure I'll come up with more questions before final assembly, but these seem like a good start.

Thanks in advance for any help provided!

2486699
 

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Shooting down fallacies
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First, don't use ZMT, use Tygon A-60-G for black maintenance free tubing. ZMT is always out of spec and often absolutely filthy.

If you must use ZMT (the polar opposite of magic tubing.....though their marketing is pretty magical in that it convinces people that it's a good tubing), you are going to need these - https://www.amazon.com/inch-Diameter-Nylon-Tube-Brushes/dp/B07D82Z3SQ/ . Cut your lengths, soak it with a little Dawn, scrub the insides ith the brushes and rinse really well with distilled.
 

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Tygon is the way to go. I nearly forgot about that. Good info.
Another thing I would add is make sure you have your angles correct on your barbs. Soft tubing looks cleaner/sharper with less bends.
 

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I’ve been using ZMT for 6 months now and it’s still slugging off black residue into my loop. I recently went with the tygon variant and I put a camera inside of both brands. The ZMT is very rough while the tygon is super smooth. Also the tygon has printing on the sides but it runs off with your finger with almost no effort. Only thing ZMT has on the tygon is that it can be bent at a sharper angle before kinking. Also the tygon fits compression fittings much better with much less force being needed.
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WaterCooler
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First, don't use ZMT, use Tygon A-60-G for black maintenance free tubing. ZMT is always out of spec and often absolutely filthy.

If you must use ZMT (the polar opposite of magic tubing.....though their marketing is pretty magical in that it convinces people that it's a good tubing), you are going to need these - 1/16 to 1 Inch Diameter Nylon Tube Brushes, Set of 10: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific . Cut your lengths, soak it with a little Dawn, scrub the insides ith the brushes and rinse really well with distilled.
Yeah seems like everyone and their mother over on r/watercooling uses freaking ZMT. I had to stop going to that subreddit.

Another option is Watercool (Heatkiller) EPDM tubing. I've not used it or the Tygon, but have heard that these are the really truly "zero maintenance tubing" unlike that crap EK puts out.
 

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H₂O Aficionado
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If you go the Advanced LRT route, washing I guess isnt required but it can’t hurt either.

Just make sure the last wash with either tube material is distilled water to mitigate the chance of organic matter in your loop.

Last thing: You can’t use coolant that contains Ethylene Glycol with advanced LRT. It’s right on their product page, under compatibility.

So when you select a coolant, just double check the relevant product page or MDS / MSDS and if you’re still unsure, ask here.

Been using LRT for 5 years now (2016). No magic gunk; no plasticizer; no problems.
 

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SAY AMBIENT AGAIN! SAY IT
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I use ZMT. I just pulled a length out of my closet and cut it open. It's clean and smooth. Not sure what the issue everyone here has with it. Hit it with the calipers and it was pretty close to the advertised specs. /shrug Mine was ordered straight from EK in retail packaging. Not negging Tygon, just ordered some to compare side by side since it has a higher pressure spec under heat load than ZMT.
 

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I just pulled the small amount of ZMT I had in my system because either the tube was losing bits or an o-ring shredded some place else. After doing some upgrades, I checked my filter there were little bits of what looked like black rubber strips and particles. I figured if it was an o-ring it would probably be leaking by now. So I changed it over Mayhems ultra clear.
 
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I use ZMT. I just pulled a length out of my closet and cut it open. It's clean and smooth. Not sure what the issue everyone here has with it. Hit it with the calipers and it was pretty close to the advertised specs. /shrug Mine was ordered straight from EK in retail packaging. Not negging Tygon, just ordered some to compare side by side since it has a higher pressure spec under heat load than ZMT.
That's the thing, its very inconsistent as a product from batch to batch.
 
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I use ZMT. I just pulled a length out of my closet and cut it open. It's clean and smooth. Not sure what the issue everyone here has with it. Hit it with the calipers and it was pretty close to the advertised specs. /shrug Mine was ordered straight from EK in retail packaging. Not negging Tygon, just ordered some to compare side by side since it has a higher pressure spec under heat load than ZMT.
There's always that one person who has a good batch from EK and sees nothing wrong, while the 50 of us had nothing bit problems and know it's crap. We only have been telling you the issue but you're not sure what it is?
 

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Invalid Media
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Yeah seems like everyone and their mother over on r/watercooling uses freaking ZMT. I had to stop going to that subreddit.

Another option is Watercool (Heatkiller) EPDM tubing. I've not used it or the Tygon, but have heard that these are the really truly "zero maintenance tubing" unlike that crap EK puts out.
I have also heard good reviews on the Watercool (Heatkiller) EPDM tubing and Tygon, but have not personally used either one....been exclusively using 1/2x3/4 PrimoChill Advanced LRT (and prior, PrimoChill 'Pro') for about 9 years now w/o any issues, either by itself or in combination with real hard tubing like copper pipes, for custom builds. I do thoroughly flush and rinse everything (rads, pumps, fittings, blocks, reservoir, tubing) with distilled water before use.

As to EKWB, I use some of their CPU and GPU blocks (no issues) but don't have anything else from them as it is not my 1st choice. EKWB is OEM supplier on blocks though for some pretty big companies, ie. Asus, PowerColor and others...
 

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On the topic of coolant:

Since your loop tubing in either case is solid and you have a wicked build, my two cents... go with a simple, maintenance free coolant.

I’m not saying distilled water is the only way to go. However, considering the costs, accessibility, and low risks, it’s my personal recommendation.
 

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I’ve been using ZMT for 6 months now and it’s still slugging off black residue into my loop. I recently went with the tygon variant and I put a camera inside of both brands. The ZMT is very rough while the tygon is super smooth. Also the tygon has printing on the sides but it runs off with your finger with almost no effort. Only thing ZMT has on the tygon is that it can be bent at a sharper angle before kinking. Also the tygon fits compression fittings much better with much less force being needed.
Interesting find. I just got some EK-ZMT tube that I ordered from them and looked inside the hose comparing it to some of my old ZMT. The new hose is very rough on the inside while the old one is very smooth. Had to order some Tygon which is twice as expensive, but no way I'm going to accept rubber particles floating around in my loop that I'm about to build.
 

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Now that my loop is just about ready to setup, I need to decide which tubing to use, and buy coolant. With that in mind, I have some questions for the community.

In case it helps, I've attached a photo of my setup (sans tubing), and hopefully your answers will point me in the right direction.

As far as tubing, I already own a meter of Primochill Advanced LRT (3/8" x 5/8" and gloss white), and a meter of EK's matte black, "no maintenance" ZMT, but if there's a much better (for my use case) product available, I'm willing to go in a different direction.

Although I haven't yet developed an aesthetic preference, the Primochill seems a bit harder to attach to my EK Quantum Torque compression fittings, but the ZMT really isn't much easier. I'm honestly concerned I'll have to apply so much force while setting everything up that I'll end up destroying a rad or something accidentally.

Running the tube under hot water didn't help much either, as I suspect it cools down in the time it takes me to move from my sink to the case (and locate the fitting etc.)

Questions:

1. Is there any 3/8" x 5/8" tubing that's known to easily attach to most fittings? I know it probably varies from sample to sample, and the Quantum Torque fittings are new enough that there isn't a wealth of knowledge surrounding their utility, but I'd like to make the actual loop assembly as smooth as possible.

2. Assuming no magic tubing exists (although that's what I thought ZMT was supposed to be), are there any tricks I can employ to make attachment any easier?

3. Any reason to choose either Primochill or ZMT, other than aesthetics, or is there a third option I should consider? If I hadn't bought the satin titanium EK fittings as early in the process as I did, I'd probably go hardline (either acrylic, glass or metal), but I'm way past the return window.

4. I've been advised to thoroughly wash ZMT tubing prior to installation, but I'm not sure what that entails. Is flushing the tube with hot tap water for 30s enough, do I need to use Dawn liquid soap, or is it even more involved than that?

And do I need to do the same with Primochill Advanced LRT?

5. Regarding coolant, I'd prefer something pastel white, but not at the expense of simplicity, longevity and ease-of-use. If it's going to clog my hardware 10 days in, or require constant maintenance, I'll go with something easier. After all, unless I decide to switch to clear tubing, only the fluid in my res will be visible.

6. Any brands or specific products I should absolutely use, or conversely, absolutely avoid?

7. Finally, should I use any pre-treatment products before actually filling the loop? Mind, all components save my GPU are brand new, but the Primochill tubing did include two loop treatment/maintenance samples (the names of which I can't recall).

I've already washed both water blocks with distilled water and a drop of Dawn, and flushed both rads with Rad Clean (although almost nothing came out) if that matters.

I'm sure I'll come up with more questions before final assembly, but these seem like a good start.

Thanks in advance for any help provided!

View attachment 2486699
I am assuming you mean pressure release valve when you say drain, right? That spot will not work, you will leak coolant all over the place. pressure release valves should be a the highest place in a loop (Where air would collect) to be effective.

Lastly, that drain valve should be at the lowest point in your loop, you will have some difficulties with it being above other components as well as the g1/4 ports on your 360 rad being at the top instead of the bottom. You will most likely need forced air to purge your loop when draining, or herculean strength in shaking while rotating.

I have never had a Pastel White coolant not turn Opaque eventually. Pastels are always more work than they are worth, yes even Mayhems. If you want White, find white tubing and use clear fluids. Getting pastel cake out of your rads, even with an abrasive cleaner sucks.

P.S. Screw soft tube, go hard broteinshake. ;)
 

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In a PCO11 case. Bunch of clueless imbecile sheep over there.
Well...I have one of those cases too. :rolleyes:

But yeah, years ago I had visited that subreddit, then I tried to recently and my conclusion is that its a bunch of people brand new to it, buy whatever their favorite tech tuber used in their water-cooling video, use Cryofuel, don't run a Blitz kit or equivalent, and then wonder why their stuff is getting gunked up and performance sucking. And then downvote you if you proceed to recommend something else over an EK product.
 
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SAY AMBIENT AGAIN! SAY IT
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There's always that one person who has a good batch from EK and sees nothing wrong, while the 50 of us had nothing bit problems and know it's crap. We only have been telling you the issue but you're not sure what it is?
Ah, I see now. Your experience is more valuable than mine is. Got it.
 

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SAY AMBIENT AGAIN! SAY IT
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Your reading comprehension sucks. Go read what I wrote and try this again. Maybe ask an adult to explain it to you
Someone's panties are in a bunch. I gave my experience and I'm guessing lots of people have the same. BTW, who DOESN'T run a filter in their rig? Only idiots like you? Maybe read what I said.
 
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