Overclock.net banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm planning a build which will eventually involve 2 CPUs and up to 10 GPUs, with an estimated combined tube length of 6 to 8 meters, and an approximate height of 1.2 meters from the lowest points of the loop, to the highest. Initially I want to start out with a CPU only loop, then transition the GPUs from air to water later on. Now, while I have a basic understanding of water cooling setups, I figured I'd ask for some advice from people more experienced, since this is a multi-hundred dollar investment.

To my understanding, I will require the following:

CPU/GPU blocks
Tubing
Pump(s)
Reservoir
Radiator(s)

Some points:

- As I have a lot of scrap 10mm acrylic, I plan to put together my own reservoir, so that cuts down on a minimum of $25 there.

- This is a wall-mounted system. There is a 25cm gap between the wall and the system, where I plan to place the radiator, positioned so that air flows through the rad from bottom to top.

- Though I'm starting initially with the CPUs only, I want to set up the cooling system in such a way that no existing parts need to be changed/upgraded. Just added. So I wish to plan with the appropriate pumps and rads for the final product, rather than the initial setup.

Given this information, does someone have suggestions for parts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
the height is irrelevant in a closed system.... but if you are really looking at 6-8 meters length , then restriction can become an issue

And in reality its probably will become an issue because you have add the restrictions of fittings & bend & turns in the components to the count....

At these lenghts, Reynolds shows up
smile.gif


I'ld suggest to seriously consider going at least 12mm ID (or even 16mm ID if that still looks "right") AND a pair of D5s or DDCs in series

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/resistance-equivalent-length-d_192.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/major-loss-ducts-tubes-d_459.html
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I'm...not quite sure what to do with that information on the Reynolds number. Never was good at physics.

I did plan to go with 1/2" ID originally, though I never considered larger sizes since it appears that the barbs for random products I've looked at don't go any larger.

As I suspected restriction would be an issue, I had thought about building a manifold to evenly distribute water to the GPUs in such a way that the GPU blocks are in parallel (for lack of a better term, I'm stealing electronics terminology). That should help at least a little bit, right? Though I read somewhere that it wouldn't make a difference how the tubes are hooked up, which didn't really make much sense to me.

Regarding pumps, it seems most people recommend D5 over DDC, so based on that, would two of these pumps be suitable? The pump, like several others I viewed, show a maximum of 24 volts. I assume then that these would need to be powered by a separate 24v power supply?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
Just run them at 12Volt
smile.gif
Going crazy is for later down the line
smile.gif


Manifolds work.. yuo can even just grab them from Central Heat HVAC Plumbing supplies
smile.gif


But, once you "split" into parallel , you have to remain parallel till they dischargein the reservoir again, otherwise you are just temporarily and locally solving the restriction issue..... but it all depends on the layout of the loop... a lot of things can be done.. and if you're quick enough, you can even fool the laws of physics long enough before they realise something is amiss
biggrin.gif


i think 1/2" is the minimum... lots of your home plumbing is 1/2" and that works.... because there is something like close to 30 PSI mains pressure behind it... which is something you can NOT achieve with our common pumps... besides it would pop radiators & waterblocks, because they are not certified for that pressure.

But with 1/2" and a pair of D5s, you should be able to get & maintain approx 1 GPM flow, which is more as enough.

I love these kind of projects.. they are outside of the usual
thumb.gif
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Righty, so then the other part I'm uncertain with would be the radiator. They all look the same to me. Would be nice if I could sort all copper rads by a 'heat released per minute' to price ratio.

Also, while I'm at it, what suitable materials can the plastic tubing be made of? I know someone who sells plumbing products, so I could probably get things cheaper from him.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

Manifolds work.. yuo can even just grab them from Central Heat HVAC Plumbing supplies
smile.gif
Where's the fun in that? My philosophy is if I can build it, I will!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

But, once you "split" into parallel , you have to remain parallel till they dischargein the reservoir again, otherwise you are just temporarily and locally solving the restriction issue..... but it all depends on the layout of the loop... a lot of things can be done.. and if you're quick enough, you can even fool the laws of physics long enough before they realise something is amiss
biggrin.gif
Okay, so using my super amazing skills in GIMP, if this is the rough idea of the water cooling...



Blue box is the pump/rad/reservoir. Heads towards the hardware (2 CPUs in yellow up top, parallel GPUs to either side) via the black lines. Lines all connect, so it splits into three. One for the CPUs, two for the left and right GPUs. Lines return from hardware in red.

So based on what youre saying, there would be no point to setting up the GPUs in parallel as shown above. However, it is acceptable to have what are essentially three loops sharing the same pumps/rads/res?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
you mean somethng like this
smile.gif




http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/
http://skinneelabs.com/water-cooling-radiators/
http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads/0_50

Splitting 3 ways rarely finishes well
I'ld go to the CPU's and when returning from them, SPLIT to the GPUs

The coolest lookign would be dedicated (chromed) "lines" coming from each GPU and/or CPU back into the reservoir... but it would be hell to "balance" unless you dedicate a pump for each "cluster" ... it has to do with "path of least resistance", but we can use that to our advantage.. lemme think a bit about it
smile.gif


One option would be to work with submersible eHeim pumps - 3 of them, one for each cluster and have a shared reservoir; that would also cut back on pie/hose lenght, so restriction becomes less of an issue
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
TWO CPU's.. is that ONE WorkStation Motherboard with two CPU's or are we talking two MBs with one CPU each?

Just wondering, cause i can't think of a WS MB with TWO CPU's that can handle SIX GPU's without issues.

Ok, following

* Does not show: "return line(s)" from top res to bottom res.. If done well its hidden anyways
smile.gif

note: purpose of top Res : collector of the lines, bleeding air - and it might look cool
smile.gif


* Assumes two MB back-to-back?

* Assumes GPU's are hooked up to MB using PCI-E Risers/Extenders

* GPUs use special SLI "bridge" waterblock parallel flow connector eg EK, or Watercool or Alphacool

See also following regarding pump/res
http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/reservoirs/pump-stations/13325/alphacool-geysir-double-power-pumpstation-fuer-2x-eheim-600-pumpen?c=556

Koolance BYO (especially the res coupler with 2x G1/4 sockets)
http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/reservoirs/tubing-reservoirs/koolance-byo/?p=2
GPU SLI Brige/Connectors
http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/gpu-water-blocks/gpu-sli-connector/?p=4&o=5&n=12
Y-splitters:
http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/fittings/adapters/11750/alphacool-hf-y-verbinder-g1/4-drehbar-3x-innengewinde-chrome?c=520



NOTE: Drawing is NOT to scale (evidently)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Quote:
Cheers. Now looking over the most up to date link, it shows this rad to be the best value when comparing performance and price. Now out of curiosity, what would perform better? Three of those, or one of these? At those quantities, they would come out to roughly the same price.
Quote:
Splitting 3 ways rarely finishes well
I'ld go to the CPU's and when returning from them, SPLIT to the GPUs
Makes sense. Saves on tubing, and simplifies things as well.
Quote:
One option would be to work with submersible eHeim pumps - 3 of them, one for each cluster and have a shared reservoir; that would also cut back on pie/hose lenght, so restriction becomes less of an issue
Actually, before I forget, would it be possible to use a pump that isn't intended for water cooling setups? If a pair of D5s cost $180, surely there has to be some sort of pump that can deliver the same, if not better flow and pressure outside of the computer water cooling industry? Possibly something that runs off the 240v supply? All I'd need are the appropriate adapters.
Quote:
TWO CPU's.. is that ONE WorkStation Motherboard with two CPU's or are we talking two MBs with one CPU each?
Just a couple of standard mobos like this. I plan to mount one on top of the other with extended standoffs and keep the clearance between the two to a minimum.
Quote:
Ok, following

* Does not show: "return line(s)" from top res to bottom res.. If done well its hidden anyways smile.gif
note: purpose of top Res : collector of the lines, bleeding air - and it might look cool smile.gif

* Assumes two MB back-to-back?

* Assumes GPU's are hooked up to MB using PCI-E Risers/Extenders

* GPUs use special SLI "bridge" waterblock parallel flow connector eg EK, or Watercool or Alphacool
I'm trying to keep a lot of the cooling components hidden. I basically want only the hardware to be shown, and the rest hidden at the back, between the mounting board and the wall. So the only things visible would be the blocks, and the tubing near them. As for the GPUs, they are mounted flat, so I don't think the SLI bridge method would work..

My thoughts on the GPU cooling: Since these are for processing use only, the memory modules aren't really getting much use out of them. Why not go for the cheaper universal blocks to cool just the GPUs, instead of the full card blocks? With Pascal's HBM being right next to the GPU, I'm guessing it might be possible to cool everything in one go. VRM cooling might be an issue, but I could probably just stick little heatsinks onto them.

Doing a bit of thinking, perhaps a parallel cooling on the cards might not work, if I want to keep the aesthetics. Then that got me wondering what the best design would be, if the two GPU loops were in series instead. What would be better?



I think the one one on the left looks a little more balanced. Also, the tubing would be copper pipe, cut to exact lengths. Likely, I'll spraypaint it a certain colour, but that's too far in the future for me to worry about it now.

Also, that image shows roughly how the video cards are arranged. They align at a roughly 45 degree angle. This would be the left side. The right side would be mirrored
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
Well, in the "best performance for money", you're always going to find Magicool, Alphacool & Phobya... just because these are amongt the cheapest rad in the game... No wonder, since at some point they even ran off the same production line.
However, one of the issues with "cheap" is quality... not that they are leaking or falling apart, no... just that their paint finish isnt that fantastic, just like lining up panels/covers is sometimes a bit dodge. And they tend to be "dirty" on the inside... although THAT has improved lately.
It all has to do with QC being almost non-existent in The People s Republic Of Lead Paint. But it IS improving, so...
Now, if you dont have you're Rads visible, then you couldn't care less about chipped paint or paint quality in general. And in that case, Magicool & Alphacool & Phobya are the best performing and VERSATILE (multiple ports) outthere.
If you want Quality Finish, you are looking at a different $$$ segment ... all the way up to the German Quality Over PErformance from AquaComputer & Watercool
smile.gif


Radspace.. or surface.. the more surface, the better.
You can achieve more surface with using more/multiple (thin) radiators, or by a much higher FPI count (eg Koolance 30 FPI), or by geting thicker/fatter. The 80mm MONSTA is a very good performer IF you put some serious fans (preferably in Push/Pull) on it. The same goes for teh 30 FPI Koolance... but serious hi-performance fans means serious money for them fans.. EK Vardar, NoiseBlocker eLOOP , Noctua Industrial... or even better getting some serious Delta or SanAce or NMB fans and tune them down to acceptable noise levels
smile.gif


If you have the space... more (thin/low FPI) rads is always better.. if yuou dont have the space, then compact, thick hi-fpi rads
In the end, the $$$ always works out the same: thick hi-fpi rads cost more as their thin low-fpi counterparts, but need hi-quality hi-performance fans, which cost more as the low noise or lower quality (but with bling leds) fans you can use on thin low-fpi rads
In the end, you are looking at maybe $10 - $15 difference between both "solutions" when its all said an done.
Then again, if you are low on space.. you can alwyas go external with a Watercool MO-RA3 or Phobya (super)NOVA
smile.gif


Pumps not sold at "specialise PC Watercooling Shops" ....
smile.gif

Yes... if you want say the performance of a D5 without paying for the convenience of having G1/4 threads/ports... get a D5
smile.gif

The Laing D5 actually has a wall powered Plumbin / Solar / Central Heating variant
http://laing-thermotech.com/products/
http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/BR-28A.pdf
You might be able to find them in you local DIY / Plumbing superstore.
Although, you are more likeley to find Grundfoss CEntral Heating/HVAC pumps. Now, Grundfoss is an option for really BIG loops, like when you for a Geothermal solution, or when you install the rads in the crawlspace under the garage while your PC is on teh 2nd floor / attic ... because in that case you would be plumbing you home as if you would when installing central heating & radiators
smile.gif
smile.gif

http://www.grundfos.com/products/find-product/ALPHA2.html

And.. eHeim does more as Aquarium pumps... but their Aquarium pumps were basically the first used in PC watercooling.. and they are still going strong - AquaComputer sells a beefed up intellegint variant of the eHaim 1048
smile.gif

When is suggested 3 eHeim submersible pums, i was actually thinking of the eheim Compact 600 ... which IS wall powered and costs between $20 - $30 (but you need to adapt the port)
https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/technology/pumps/compact

Besides those, there are LOTS of possible pumps outthere, from garden/sump/well/fountain to undercounter heater/spa/swimming pool/aquarium... the only thing is you need their PQ curves.. and those are not always available.
One of the reasons teh D5 & DDC is so "popular", is because its performance & MTBF is well known/documented. And its convenient that somebody tapped G1/4 ports on it
smile.gif
But there are other options available :0

Universal Blocks for GPU
Yes, a very viable alternative, Alphacool GPX , Watercool HK GPU-X , XSPC , EK THermosphere, Koolance ... are al options
http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/gpu-water-blocks/gpu-chip-cooler/

However, especially when "flat mounted" GPUs, i dont think going serial is an option... GPU blocks, while less restrictive as CPU blocks , still are.. depending on Brand/Model... add to that a whole lot of 90 degree elbows and it might choke the loop.
now, some of these universal blocks only come with TWO ports (at the side), some however with 4 or even 6 ports... which opens up possibilities to avoid serial setup AND to avoid 90 degree elbows... worth looking into depending on your layout.

As for the esthetics... some brand/models of the Universal blocks have an IN & an OUT... if you would choose these, that would dictate how they are hooked up and how it would look
smile.gif

Now, i'ld consider an "offset stacked" mount/layout for the GPUs, just because its easier
smile.gif


REMARK: Ther is nothng wrong with using FCPU as "reference" when looking up stuff... but in the end i would NOT buy from them... it all has been a bit too dodgy over the last year and there is still the posibility that it all goes tits up without notice.. and that you can wave bye-bye to the money you've forked over to them. I'm sure you are aware of the whole FCPU story?
That leaves not to many alternatives... PPCs or Aquatuning http://www.aquatuning.us/

..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
You know, one of the things you can do when using brazen/soldered copper pipe... is using a few Ts and a rounded 90` street elbow is this:
And it allows for parallel flow on the GPUs



Needs some soldering skill though
smile.gif
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
That layout looks viable. Another alternative to keep height to a minimum may perhaps be to have the pipes go around the sides of the GPUs, instead of above. Wonder if it would look better, since it essentially gives the GPUs a border
Quote:
Well, in the "best performance for money", you're always going to find Magicool, Alphacool & Phobya... just because these are amongt the cheapest rad in the game... No wonder, since at some point they even ran off the same production line.
However, one of the issues with "cheap" is quality... not that they are leaking or falling apart, no... just that their paint finish isnt that fantastic, just like lining up panels/covers is sometimes a bit dodge. And they tend to be "dirty" on the inside... although THAT has improved lately.
It all has to do with QC being almost non-existent in The People s Republic Of Lead Paint. But it IS improving, so...
Now, if you dont have you're Rads visible, then you couldn't care less about chipped paint or paint quality in general. And in that case, Magicool & Alphacool & Phobya are the best performing and VERSATILE (multiple ports) outthere.
If you want Quality Finish, you are looking at a different $$$ segment ... all the way up to the German Quality Over PErformance from AquaComputer & Watercool
Rads won't be visible, but if for whatever reason I change their positioning to be visible, I could always spray paint it, right? Would the fins still radiate heat?
Quote:
Radspace.. or surface.. the more surface, the better.
You can achieve more surface with using more/multiple (thin) radiators, or by a much higher FPI count (eg Koolance 30 FPI), or by geting thicker/fatter. The 80mm MONSTA is a very good performer IF you put some serious fans (preferably in Push/Pull) on it. The same goes for teh 30 FPI Koolance... but serious hi-performance fans means serious money for them fans.. EK Vardar, NoiseBlocker eLOOP , Noctua Industrial... or even better getting some serious Delta or SanAce or NMB fans and tune them down to acceptable noise levels
So what stops me from getting a car radiator? For the price of a high end rad, I could get a much larger car equivalent, and on top of that, I could mount a large fan. Larger, more CFM for the level of noise, and if it's an AC motor, more efficient.

I do have a 140mm Delta in storage, now that you mentioned it, though. I should see how loud I can tolerate it behind the mounting at some point.

At this point, I just realised it might be better to link my build log, to get a better understanding of space and layout. Linky
Quote:
Besides those, there are LOTS of possible pumps outthere, from garden/sump/well/fountain to undercounter heater/spa/swimming pool/aquarium... the only thing is you need their PQ curves.. and those are not always available.
Unless I'm thinking of something else, what do I need the PQ curve for? Isn't the head and flow data sufficient?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
well PQ curve IS head % flow, so..
smile.gif

But, if the manufacturer does NOT include PQ curves, then whatever numbers he claims are to be taken with a pinch of salt
smile.gif

It the same logic as for fans... Delta includes PQ curves and "This fan does what it says on the box" or better. Some offbrand claims their blue-led 120mm fan producing 400 CFM, 25mm SP at only 25dB(a) .. and i go yeah, right, you've measured the noise in vacuum or what?

So, manufacturers , and especially industrial ones , include PQ & Specs lower as reality for one reason: lawsuits... so they are the better choice if you're lookin for something with specific properties.

Anyways,

You could also use something U-shaped from each block that disappears behind the board and plugs into some kind of manifold
smile.gif

There are 1000's of ways of doing it. Me, i'ld consider butterfly stacking the GPUs.. just because its possible (not easy) and it would look very different than what anybody has done before
smile.gif




Rad Visibility
Yes, you can always spary paint them.. but i would avoid painting the fins.. it would not be good for performance

Car RAds
Yes....
The problem with car rads is:
You have to block off all the extra ports they have have
You have to find an COPPER CORE one
They are designed (hi-fpi) with a car travelling +30 MPH in mind.. which is why the fans attached to it make such a rackett whenever you are stationary

But a nice Racing MotorCycle/Car rad IS actually an option
smile.gif


Im gonna check out the link in detail tomorrow, but from first looks... have you created a big soundbox?
smile.gif
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Quote:
You could also use something U-shaped from each block that disappears behind the board and plugs into some kind of manifold smile.gif
There are 1000's of ways of doing it. Me, i'ld consider butterfly stacking the GPUs.. just because its possible (not easy) and it would look very different than what anybody has done before
Butterfly stacking?

Also, I assume a video card held up by a waterblock and piping would not be a suitable load bearing solution, right? For instance, the pipes are secured nearby, and they bear the weight of the card through the block.
Quote:
Im gonna check out the link in detail tomorrow, but from first looks... have you created a big soundbox?
I'm going to guess it might function a little like that. It's 18mm plywood
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
yeah, difficult to explain...
mounted with a slight overlap at one end... a bit like a common mount point..., so it looks a bit like if you would be holding playing cards... but each one slightly angled upwards (enough to "hide" connections and such)... so you get a bit of a Turbine blades effect.

Of course with only 4-6 cards, you cant make it look like a turbine... therefore, it looks a bit more like a butterfly or maybe a dragonfly (depending on separation & angle) or some other origami folded thingie
smile.gif



and yes, holding up a GPU + WB by its piping is probably not a good idea
smile.gif

But, if you remove the stock cooler, and put on a universal block, you'll have mounting holes to spare .. you only need to build an adequate supporting frame and bolt the GPU to that frame

If it's just flat, horizontal, side-by-side then its easy enough.. you can use long motherboard standoff or some M3 bolts with a number of washers/spacers to bolt them to the plate. But angling them with overlaps and a "common" mount point... THAT is a challenge
smile.gif


 

·
Banned
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I doubt I'd want to stack them like that, then.

I completely forgot that the GPUs would have additional mounting holes. Would they have any holes to spare straight out of the box for a flat mount config? Probably impossible to answer, with so many different cards available, but it would definitely simplify the mounting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
some of the larger/longer "heavy" GPU's probably have an open eye somewhere near the power connectors... probably to facilitate supporting them one way or another to avoid sagging under its own weight... even if one just uses a piece of string knotted to it
smile.gif


But, ultimately it comes down to brand/make/model of course
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
720 Posts
Concerning the radiators: 2 CPUs and 10 GPUs might easily add up to over 2000 watts of heat that needs to be dissipated. I usually recommend calculating one 120mm fan per 100 Watts for good cooling performance with no sound disturbance. THat would add up to 20 120mm fans of rad space. Even when using the american rule of thumb (one 120mm per water block), you still would need 12 120mm fans, leading to a bare minimum of 4 360 raiators, all preferably next to each other and not stacked above each other, so that none of them is fed the hot air of the one below it.

I would highly recommend you think about getting a MO-RA3 instead. I have never seen a build that louder cried for a MO-RA than this one - it's just a perfect match. TO be honest, I would even use two MO-RA3 360 if I were you. Strap on four Silverstone Air Penetrator AP-181 on each of them, and you will have a silent, but potent cooling solution. And imagine having thos two bad boys on the left and right of your computer on the wall - it definitely would look impressive
wink.gif
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Another concern with the rads. If I were to go for something large, how well would they perform in the closed space behind? Since there's only 25cm in depth to work with, would there be issues with airflow?

If I were to get one of those large rads that take 3*3 fans, I could cut a square in the wood behind the large circle acrylic to allow air to pass through with improved airflow. Another alternative would be to mount smaller rads on the sides with single fan rows, though I would need to run considerably longer pipes for this
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,024 Posts
the closed space behind is big/large yes?

I think you'll have to foresee some intake space near the floor and similar near the ceiling.. with the right placing & materials, you can probably hide these vents very well.
For example , if you would paint a strip near the floor black, so it looks like a baseboard, you can easily "hide" some incorporated metal grilles
OR you use some speaker cloth, which is a special weave that allows easy breathing.
OR you could use some (fake) baseboard/cable gutter to hide the large air intakes near the floor.

Also, because i suspect you 've created a sound amplification box, consider add/glueing some sound dampening material to the inside. RockWool might a good choice.

But any sound dampening material will contribute to that space being hotter as the room, which is why you'll have to ensure some airflow through it.

Now, one of those MO-RA3's is about 65mm thick, add 2x 25mm (for fans in push/pull) OR add 32mm (for 180mm Phobya) and you are looking at a rad/fan package between 95mm and 130mm thick
But becaue of its other dimensions, it would need to be mounted "flat" against the panel and be allowed to take in air from the room. And dump its heat into the enclosed space.. which thus needs vents near the ceiling.

An alternative would be to go for 180/200 mm WIDE rads and mount them horizontally (again with the AP181 or Phobya 180mm fans) somewhere behind the board

A pair of Alphacools XT45 3x180mm mounted "head-to-head" horizontally behind the center would keep hose/pipe to the minimum and should also allow to run fans at min speed, so it would be near silent, especially if you also moutn the pump(s) behind the board, next to the rads. But you will still need to allow the space to "breath" , having vents bottom & top as far away as possible from the center/rads will just do that

http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/radiators/radiators-active/15243/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-full-copper-180mm-triple?c=591


Now, if you really want something special -which will also lower the center of gravity- you could use baseboard heating radiators (i am sure you've seen them somewhere already)
As far as i remember SlantFin makes/sells replacement CORE elements in different lengths with 1/2" copper pipe in the core... you can solder a few of them together spanning almost the whole length & depth of the space and go for semi-passive cooling
smile.gif

Depending where you are you can find the bare core elements in your local DIY superstore
i think about $75,- for 8-10 feet .. but some soldering skills required
smile.gif




PS: if i would do certain things over again, i would use these baseboard heaters extensively in my (geo-)loop, hang them in the kids attic room to dump the heat my PCs added to the loop in the attic
smile.gif

Maybe when i retire i'll rebuild a whole house around the ideal geothermal PC cooling loop
smile.gif
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top