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Hi, First off I'd like to say great site I found many of info on here Which brings me to the point I'm at now,Here are my System Specs:

MOBO: Asus P5E3
CPU: Q9400
Memory: Corsair 3x1GB 1333MHz (CM3X1024-1333C9)
Case: Thermaltake Armor+
PSU: Corsair 620W
Cooling: All Stock (For Now)

I want to (Well Have) Overclocked to 3.2Ghz and i will list my current BIOS settings:

CPU Ratio: 8.0
FSB Strap to NB: AUTO "Need Advice 0n this one" they order like this:200MHz,400Mhz and so on.
FSB Frequency:400
PCIE Frequency:100
DRAM Frequency: DDR3-801MHz "Which gives me a 1:1 Ratio"

"VOLTAGES"
CPU Voltage:1.1625
CPU PLL Voltage:Auto
FSB Termination Voltage:1.24 / MAX 1.50
DRAM Voltage:1.60
NB Voltage:1.27 / MAX 1.91
SB Voltage:Auto

I will Attach Image of CPUZ,CPUtemp and Intel Burn Test.
First out I did start from scratch and found my lowest CPU Voltage To boot windows was 1.13750 (With pretty my no increase in Temp from stock)But once i Started opening Appz IT BSOD and that was that So bumped up to 1.14375 and same again BSOD,So that led me to 1.1625 With the above setting in place, I guess my main concern are the following settings:
"FSB Strap To NB" - Will 200MHz cover it?
"CPU Voltage" - Whats Best For these Quads?
"CPU PLL Voltage" - I've Read in alot of places to just leave on Auto But what do you guys think?
"FSB Termination Voltage" Should 1.24 be enough?
"NB Voltage" - Is 1.27v Enough or average?
"SB Voltage" - Also Just read to leave it But if it is a Benifit to set it What Should I set it to?

So any Advice would be greatly appreciated basically It is just the voltages (obviously) I am curious about as they are to me a bit frustrating to tweek.
In the images you will see the CPUtemp the lowest temps displayed were from just IDLE for about 10mins before i ran the Burn Test so the go from about 30 - 60 underload so what is the highest i should let it go?
Once again any help would be great.
LL
 

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Vcore needs to be higher... I have my NB (labeled as SPP on mine) set to 1.5 since it is a quad core... this puts more strain on the NB and it needs more juice. Try setting the Vcore to 1.3 (this should be more than enough and it is still under the intel safe max). Also check your dram voltage... make sure that is set to stock voltage. set timings manually to factory default and run that ram at the stock speed. You dont want to mess with the RAM untill you are happy with your OC. I do not know about the FSB strap or CPU PLL voltage since i do not have those settings. Try adjusting just the settings i have listed first and see if that helps.

I DO NOT suggest OCing with a stock HS. Get a xigmatek dark knight (around $45). Temps will be kinda hot with a stock HS.

LAST THING... turn off spread spectrum (cpu pcie and everything else is disabled for me). Turn off C1E and EIST (this is enhanced halt state and intel speed step. turn them off for now). Turn the fans to 100% manually for the time being. also FSB termination (if i thinking right, 1.2 should be enough to get you to 3.2Ghz. Anything more, it should be 1.3v (remember that my mobo jumps up by increments of .05v so you might be able to tweak some thing better than me after you get it stable). I hope this helps, but remember to upgrade that heatsink before overclocking... mine hit 55c with my old artic cooler 7 pro. The heatsink i mentioned is pretty good (51c max with Intel Burn Test on maximum).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Quote:


Originally Posted by JNielson
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Vcore needs to be higher... I have my NB (labeled as SPP on mine) set to 1.5 since it is a quad core... this puts more strain on the NB and it needs more juice. Try setting the Vcore to 1.3 (this should be more than enough and it is still under the intel safe max). Also check your dram voltage... make sure that is set to stock voltage. set timings manually to factory default and run that ram at the stock speed. You dont want to mess with the RAM untill you are happy with your OC. I do not know about the FSB strap or CPU PLL voltage since i do not have those settings. Try adjusting just the settings i have listed first and see if that helps.

I DO NOT suggest OCing with a stock HS. Get a xigmatek dark knight (around $45). Temps will be kinda hot with a stock HS.

LAST THING... turn off spread spectrum (cpu pcie and everything else is disabled for me). Turn off C1E and EIST (this is enhanced halt state and intel speed step. turn them off for now). Turn the fans to 100% manually for the time being. also FSB termination (if i thinking right, 1.2 should be enough to get you to 3.2Ghz. Anything more, it should be 1.3v (remember that my mobo jumps up by increments of .05v so you might be able to tweak some thing better than me after you get it stable). I hope this helps, but remember to upgrade that heatsink before overclocking... mine hit 55c with my old artic cooler 7 pro. The heatsink i mentioned is pretty good (51c max with Intel Burn Test on maximum).

Thanks for your input
, I did feel that my VCore voltage was low the VID: is 1.2500v So i think i should start from there and tweak my SB voltage to as you suggested 1.5. I actually have a "artic cooler 7 pro" I had it on when i had my Q6600 in there but the "artic cooler 7 pro" doesn't sit right on my mobo instead of the fan blowing straight out the back I had it turned around and blowing straight up into my PSU and personally it just didn't sit right with me That seems to be the issue with these boards is that they are a bit cluttered around the socket However I have spoken to a user on here named "Prong" and he has the same board and he said the same as you to go for the Dark Knight So i am going to get one of them and i will proceed from there.Right now i will return to stock settings till i get my cooler.
Thanks for your help and suggestions it is much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bima Sylirian View Post
3.2GHz should be okay with stock VCore and stock cooling.
But don't use stock cooling if you planned to increase the voltage.
What would be the Stock VCore do you know would this be the VID:1.2500v?
 

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Originally Posted by Cashis05 View Post
Thanks for your input
, I did feel that my VCore voltage was low the VID: is 1.2500v So i think i should start from there and tweak my SB voltage to as you suggested 1.5. I actually have a "artic cooler 7 pro" I had it on when i had my Q6600 in there but the "artic cooler 7 pro" doesn't sit right on my mobo instead of the fan blowing straight out the back I had it turned around and blowing straight up into my PSU and personally it just didn't sit right with me That seems to be the issue with these boards is that they are a bit cluttered around the socket However I have spoken to a user on here named "Prong" and he has the same board and he said the same as you to go for the Dark Knight So i am going to get one of them and i will proceed from there.Right now i will return to stock settings till i get my cooler.
Thanks for your help and suggestions it is much appreciated.
just be careful installing it... it cut my knuckles up and there is blood all over the HS now lol.
 

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Originally Posted by JNielson
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just be careful installing it... it cut my knuckles up and there is blood all over the HS now lol.

Well thats inspirational Thanks.
 

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Regarding the Dark Knight: if I'm not mistaken, there's only one way it can be mounted, and that's with the fan blowing up just like the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro. But like I said: "if I'm not mistaken". But I could have sworn that I read people saying that they had to get some aftermarket Xigmatek-brand mounting hardware for the s1283 heatsink just so that they could position it any way that they wanted. I hope I'm wrong though because the s1283V Dark Knight is being hailed as the best possible CPU cooler in its price range. It's even beating out some more-expensive air coolers.

Anyway, the VID is the voltage that the CPU will request when the voltage is set to Auto. So, I guess you can kinda consider it to be the stock. But it's more of a Voltage Identification, or something. That's not an official term, but I'm just using "VID" and making one up. It's like the CPU is saying "I need 1.25V at stock, because that's who I am." Oh, and when EIST and C1E are enabled, the reported VID in programs like Core Temp will be much lower during idle.

But with the core voltage set to manual, that VID can be a loose guide as to how much voltage you should need to get it stable at 100% stock clocks. So, if you select 1.25V in the BIOS at 100% stock clocks, then the actual voltage will be lower due to vDrop and vDroop, and it should be stable since you set it to the VID.

Now "vDrop" is when the actual voltage is lower than what you have selected in the BIOS. Vdroop is when that actual voltage droops under full load. Both are normal, and both are very protective for your CPU. This is important to know.

Anyway, that's about as much as I can post right now, but I hope to provide more later.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
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Originally Posted by TwoCables
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Regarding the Dark Knight: if I'm not mistaken, there's only one way it can be mounted, and that's with the fan blowing up just like the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro. But like I said: "if I'm not mistaken". But I could have sworn that I read people saying that they had to get some aftermarket Xigmatek-brand mounting hardware for the s1283 heatsink just so that they could position it any way that they wanted. I hope I'm wrong though because the s1283V Dark Knight is being hailed as the best possible CPU cooler in its price range. It's even beating out some more-expensive air coolers.

Anyway, the VID is the voltage that the CPU will request when the voltage is set to Auto. So, I guess you can kinda consider it to be the stock. But it's more of a Voltage Identification, or something. That's not an official term, but I'm just using "VID" and making one up. It's like the CPU is saying "I need 1.25V at stock, because that's who I am." Oh, and when EIST and C1E are enabled, the reported VID in programs like Core Temp will be much lower during idle.

But with the core voltage set to manual, that VID can be a loose guide as to how much voltage you should need to get it stable at 100% stock clocks. So, if you select 1.25V in the BIOS at 100% stock clocks, then the actual voltage will be lower due to vDrop and vDroop, and it should be stable since you set it to the VID.

Now "vDrop" is when the actual voltage is lower than what you have selected in the BIOS. Vdroop is when that actual voltage droops under full load. Both are normal, and both are very protective for your CPU. This is important to know.

Anyway, that's about as much as I can post right now, but I hope to provide more later.

Thankyou very much for all that info and clearing things up a bit for me Now i understand more about the "vDrop" and "vDroop" and to know this will be very helpful,
.

I wasn't able to get a Dark Knight I always shop at Pccasegear.com with is an OZ retailer that suits me "being in OZ" however i did get a Xigmatek HDT-S1283 Red Scorpion Edition, which after youtubing and reading reviews i was satisfied with it and for only a 20% OC should be just fine with the Red Scorpion.

I will be installing and testing all of it tomorrow so no doubt I will be back with more question for more suggestions.

Thanks again for your Knowledge
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cashis05 View Post
Thankyou very much for all that info and clearing things up a bit for me Now i understand more about the "vDrop" and "vDroop" and to know this will be very helpful,
.

I wasn't able to get a Dark Knight I always shop at Pccasegear.com with is an OZ retailer that suits me "being in OZ" however i did get a Xigmatek HDT-S1283 Red Scorpion Edition, which after youtubing and reading reviews i was satisfied with it and for only a 20% OC should be just fine with the Red Scorpion.

I will be installing and testing all of it tomorrow so no doubt I will be back with more question for more suggestions.

Thanks again for your Knowledge

It's a real pleasure. This is what I love dong.


Now, I didn't know that there was a Red Scorpion edition. It sounds really badass, so I bet you'll fall in love with it really fast.

Oh, and of course, here's how to apply thermal paste to these HDT heatsinks:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

They have excellent pictures.

Anyway, I am looking forward to seeing what you can achieve with the Red Scorpion!
 
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Quote:


Originally Posted by TwoCables
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It's a real pleasure. This is what I love dong.


Now, I didn't know that there was a Red Scorpion edition. It sounds really badass, so I bet you'll fall in love with it really fast.

Oh, and of course, here's how to apply thermal paste to these HDT heatsinks:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

They have excellent pictures.

Anyway, I am looking forward to seeing what you can achieve with the Red Scorpion!

Ok, I have completed instillation and all went well before OC'ing temp were like 29,29,28,28 under no load and under load i they stayed around late 30's early 40's which im happy with,Given that it is winter here i have no choice but to have a heater on otherwise i will freeze to death so i can blame that for a bit of the temp elavation.
Now i went straight into BIOS and set to the following settings:

CPU Ratio: 8.0
FSB Strap to NB: AUTO (however i did test it at 200Mhz and didn't make a difference so i left it on Auto coz I'm not sure about it coz it may need more like 300-333 so i figured on Auto it will take what it needs "Please advise me if this is unsafe)
VCore Voltage: 1.2750
CPU PLL: 1.50
FSB Term: 1.20
NB: 1.41
LLC: Enabled

Thats all i've set so far I have run OCCT for a Solid Hour and had no issues temps got to the highest so far and that is 48-49 degrees so please make suggestion's of any incorrect settings and or if i should keep testing.

As for RAM I have got 3x1GB Corsair 1333MHz 1.60v 9-9-9-24 (CM3X1024-1333C9)currently set to: DRAM Freq: 1334MHz with still the stock Timings of: 9-9-9-24 Voltage:1.60v (Stock) "I Ran a memtest86 and all passed 100%"

So as i dont understand alot at this point about RAM Frequencies,and Timings
I was hoping someone could share a bit of knowledge about the whole matter as it stands now "Well I Think" my RAM is still running at a stock speed and that would be great because I read not to play around with it So if someone can verify for me that would be great.


Other than I think i will run about 4hrs of testing and I should be set.

any opinions and or help would be great once again, Thanks
 

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