2
Oh forgot.. this was purchased a year + 1 month ago for 1900$
Have I bit off more than I can chew?
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Wife is a bit scared but I think it will go just fine.. /cross fingers
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Have I bit off more than I can chew?
Sunday Fun: 46" LCD TV Repair - Guts & Gore
13
Greets!
Well here's what my Sunday project is. It's a big one and those not able to stomach some raw gut footage or those who can't stand to ~try~ and repair anything over 100$; walk away now
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So a few days ago my wife tells me that my Samsung 46" LCD HD TV was acting up. Seems you would turn the power on and it would try to startup and then "click" and turn off. This went on for about 5 mins and then the TV came on just fine.
Fast forward each day from then to now. Each time it does the same thing. The power relay "clicks" on then "clicks" off. The other day it took an hour and this morning it never DID come on and clicked for over 2 hours before I had enough.
I had been researching this issue and seems these Samsung have either cold wave soldering issues -or- the PSU board in them tends to fail. I decided regardless I would have to get it out since a replacement was 120$ and I'm now just 1 month (yes 1 MONTH) out of my warranty. Unit was purchased at Circuit City (pre-bankruptcy) so without the ability to vent there it's either wait hours and hours or try and remedy the situation.
Opening the thing was easy enough, some 16-18 screws, and behold I find the PCB containing the high voltage and the PSU "starter" block as well the relay that kept clicking.
I come to find some of the Caps near the "cold" end of the board that are bulging and starting to pop. This has GOT to be the issue. Seems also I find a good resource of others who've had the same issue. 8$ later and some quick solder job and most of their TV's work fine. So I figure WHY NOT!
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Some money shots as of now but within the hour I"m off to RadioShack for some 35v 1000uf Electrolyte cap's and a new soldier iron and going to try to pull this off!
Wish me luckage!
Pre-Disasembly
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Back OFF!
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The board
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The OFFENDING Caps
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The Battle of the BULGE!
![]()
Update once I have the gear and ready to do this!
Well here's what my Sunday project is. It's a big one and those not able to stomach some raw gut footage or those who can't stand to ~try~ and repair anything over 100$; walk away now
So a few days ago my wife tells me that my Samsung 46" LCD HD TV was acting up. Seems you would turn the power on and it would try to startup and then "click" and turn off. This went on for about 5 mins and then the TV came on just fine.
Fast forward each day from then to now. Each time it does the same thing. The power relay "clicks" on then "clicks" off. The other day it took an hour and this morning it never DID come on and clicked for over 2 hours before I had enough.
I had been researching this issue and seems these Samsung have either cold wave soldering issues -or- the PSU board in them tends to fail. I decided regardless I would have to get it out since a replacement was 120$ and I'm now just 1 month (yes 1 MONTH) out of my warranty. Unit was purchased at Circuit City (pre-bankruptcy) so without the ability to vent there it's either wait hours and hours or try and remedy the situation.
Opening the thing was easy enough, some 16-18 screws, and behold I find the PCB containing the high voltage and the PSU "starter" block as well the relay that kept clicking.
I come to find some of the Caps near the "cold" end of the board that are bulging and starting to pop. This has GOT to be the issue. Seems also I find a good resource of others who've had the same issue. 8$ later and some quick solder job and most of their TV's work fine. So I figure WHY NOT!
Some money shots as of now but within the hour I"m off to RadioShack for some 35v 1000uf Electrolyte cap's and a new soldier iron and going to try to pull this off!
Wish me luckage!
Pre-Disasembly
Back OFF!
The board
The OFFENDING Caps
The Battle of the BULGE!
Update once I have the gear and ready to do this!
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
2
2
Not much in those things for the prices they charge
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I've been looking to buy and there hasn't been any real good deals lately because there doing an nVidia... $1.00 change with a new part number and up the prices hundreds of $$$
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I've been looking to buy and there hasn't been any real good deals lately because there doing an nVidia... $1.00 change with a new part number and up the prices hundreds of $$$
2
Quote:
I typically would and might run to the "big city" (I live in a rural farming area) and see if I can find a specialty electronics store. For now though I might have to deal with "The Rat Shack".
It is quite amazing what this thing IS NOT once you open her up. They stated online they are actually ~much~ easier to work on than a PC and PC components so I figured, again, why not?! She's just sitting here clicking at me like some mid-evil wench!
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Originally Posted by H3||scr3am Hey, buy some higher quality caps, rat shack ones may fix it but not for long... |
It is quite amazing what this thing IS NOT once you open her up. They stated online they are actually ~much~ easier to work on than a PC and PC components so I figured, again, why not?! She's just sitting here clicking at me like some mid-evil wench!
Good luck mate. Hope you've got a steady soldering hand!
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6
Thanks H3llscr3am
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I'll have to check them once I have to re-do this job..
Houston.. We have LIFT-OFF!
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10 min solder job (old caps out, new caps in) and about 10 mins putting her back together.. Wife was hiding behind the door incase something, in her words "blow up".. I LOL'ed
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She Lives!
Cost of components:
3x 1000uf 35v Electrolyte Caps = 3.xx$
1x 30w Solder Iron (yes it's Rat Shack but I needed a cheapy) 10$
1x Other (Solder, Wick) 5$
18$ tops and most others I've seen have this issue spent at least 120$ on an entire new board or at least 600$ for the labor if they had a shop do it..
I PWNED it
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I'll have to check them once I have to re-do this job..
Houston.. We have LIFT-OFF!
10 min solder job (old caps out, new caps in) and about 10 mins putting her back together.. Wife was hiding behind the door incase something, in her words "blow up".. I LOL'ed
She Lives!
Cost of components:
3x 1000uf 35v Electrolyte Caps = 3.xx$
1x 30w Solder Iron (yes it's Rat Shack but I needed a cheapy) 10$
1x Other (Solder, Wick) 5$
18$ tops and most others I've seen have this issue spent at least 120$ on an entire new board or at least 600$ for the labor if they had a shop do it..
I PWNED it
3
Quote:
Hehe.. Thanks mate!
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This on 2hr of sleep today
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Hit the hay @ 2am and got called on a work related issue @ 4am.. Decided to stay up and listen to the "clicking" for 3 hours.. After that I absolutely had enough of that morbid sound..
Maybe if I had more sleep and less caffeine I wouldn't have done it, lol.
Originally Posted by mrkryz That's a ballsy move , great for you +rep |
This on 2hr of sleep today
Maybe if I had more sleep and less caffeine I wouldn't have done it, lol.
awesome repair!
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nicely done, I remember replacing the color wheel in my DLP... that was a fun afternoon
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3
Quote:
Agreed
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I was seriously debating calling Samsung but after reading many having this issue and stating a call to Samsung only resulted in `you should have got the extended warranty`, I decided it was go for broke time.
I pondered for 2 days to just spend the 120$ for the entire PCB you saw in the pics and most everyone who's done a job just goes that route. Again I figured what's 6$ in caps and if I blow the board, well it's then only 126$ to fix it so sometimes you win
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I was seriously shocked at how non-complicated the board was as well the entire setup. Makes one believe, as stated above, why they cost sooo much.. It's less than a PC in all honesty.
Oh well.. Thanks again everyone and was nearly as good as sex but the wife just shook her head as I was dry humpin (ace ventura style) once she came back to life. LOL
Originally Posted by DIRTYDUCK Wow nice job man...This is the type of thing that gets me thinking I need to start looking for huge LCD's in the trash lol. |
I was seriously debating calling Samsung but after reading many having this issue and stating a call to Samsung only resulted in `you should have got the extended warranty`, I decided it was go for broke time.
I pondered for 2 days to just spend the 120$ for the entire PCB you saw in the pics and most everyone who's done a job just goes that route. Again I figured what's 6$ in caps and if I blow the board, well it's then only 126$ to fix it so sometimes you win
I was seriously shocked at how non-complicated the board was as well the entire setup. Makes one believe, as stated above, why they cost sooo much.. It's less than a PC in all honesty.
Oh well.. Thanks again everyone and was nearly as good as sex but the wife just shook her head as I was dry humpin (ace ventura style) once she came back to life. LOL
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
