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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I just got done setting up my computer and my temps are pretty bad. 51 idle 68 load. I have the loop setup correctly. I tried swooshing the rad around and tilting it everyway possible. And they are not good. Thanks for any help.

My setup is:
BIX 360
3 Sycthe Kaze Ultra 2000RPM
AquaXtreme Waterblock CPU- Replaced now by Swiftech GTZ
AquaXtreme Waterblock GPU - not attached to GPU right now.
Swiftech 655 MCP Pump
Distilled water. Masterkleer tubing 7/16. Swiftech Micro res v2.

Thanks
 

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All I can think of is to reseat the waterblocks, and to make sure there are no tiny bubbles wandering around your system.
 

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Ah..,poop city (PC)
I hate it when you first fire up and the temps are off the reservation.
Normally as time goes by (and a zillion air bubbles) the temps get lower. Try reseating your block (I know a broken record
), careful of how much TIM you use, check and see if you've got turbulance in your rez (make sure the pump is pumpin' it's heart out
), softly tap the tubes where bubbles cogregate, very softly tap the pump, softly do the ole' shake rattle and roll of the boxen, the rad and all parts of your water cooling loop (the key word here is "softly", please don't get carried away, I have and it's a definite no no, PT Nuke and distilled water taste like poop (this PC stuff is killin' me
)

You could get a mirror and flashlight. Look around your WB mount to see it's sitting flush and not hitting any mobo jobber doobers around the socket.


When I first boot up I always check my CPU temp in BIOS (I know it ain't all that accurate, but it's getting somewhere in the ballpark
) Then be anal like me and compare the temps using two programs (like Real Temp and Core Temp)

I'm sorry I couldn't be more help, but other than the ole' reseat of block routine, checking amount of TIM, seein' if the pumps runnin', check the loop for integrety (no kinks, no leaks, etc) and if you've got a live chicken or a creepy neighbor runnin' around just sacrifice them to the computer Gods (only kiddin' about the neighbor and the live chicken, you could always go to Kentucky Fried for an already croaked chicken and maybe an already croaked customer
)) I've run out of intelligent and semi intelligent ideers
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input. I did check my bios and my temp in it is 30 real temp and core temp both show 51 idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Does anyone have a picture or a diagram of exactly how to setup a loop. I need to know which inlet of my cpu and gpu go to where. I have read but it seems everyone is saying a different thing and not giving specifics of where the inlet and outlet of my blocks go to exactly. I have been looking at people with this same setup but getting around 20 idle and 45 full load. Can somebody help pleassseeee.
 

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OK, first off the particular loop configuration you have depends on many, many things, the type of components you have, the size of your case, where your rads mounted, etc The only things I've read, written by experienced long time water coolers (qualified and they never make a typing boo boo, credibiliy, it's all about credibility
) You should always install the pump right after the rez (to keep it from ever running dry), to plumb using the least tubing possible (no extra sharp bends, no kinking or possibility of kinking and IMO overlooked frequently, have cool air at the intake of the radiator. (if possible, ambient temp can have a big effect on loop temps to a certain degree) I think because the loop is closed the order of the components is not so important, expect the pump/rez of course
. I have 2x Q6600 G0's in external water boxes that I built and run 24/7 and I've never had too many problems a little research didn't cure


As far as your pump (MCP655) just make sure the top connection goes to the pressure side of your loop and the middle or side connection is the return of your loop (in my configuration the top goes to my rad and the middle/side comes from my rez) In my case the rad pressure line goes to the CPU WB first (XSPC Delta V3, it's mounted horizontally) and second tube goes to a MCW60-R VGA WB (I don't know if one inlet is intake and the other return, I don't think it matters
) then from the MCW60-R the coolant is returned to the resevoir and it's cooled in the rad to start the trip all over again.
On the DDC type pump Laing even labled the intake and pressure barbs on their stock top


Good luck and I hope you come up with something, if you do please post it
If I'm not clear I appologize, ATM I'm putting WinXP Home on a HP nc6000 laptop (I replaced the HD). I think I know why I prefer Dell lappys now, I never had the first prob with my D610 (I know, only Pentium M's, but I only use them for surfing the Net and posting posts like this. I have them to keep from interupting my 2x water cooled 24/7 DCing Q6600 G0's
(I replaced a 60 GB HD to a 120GB hard drive in my D610)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Does anyone know if it matters which barb on the rad i plug into from the pump and same goes for the what barb of the rad plugs into the cpu? When i pick my rad up and swoosh it around you can tell it's not full. Is it suppose to be full to the top with water? If so how do you properly fill it? Also how do i tell wjat side of my Cpu block is the inlet and which one is the outlet?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Water flow seems to be good. It's hard to tell because I can't see the water all that well. How do I check my water temps? Is there a program to check water temps. My bios and Easytune 6 Say my cpu temps are a lot lower but I heard they are not accurate.
 

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Bout to bounce for the night, If your water temps are decent and you have good flow then its 1 of 3 things...

1. Block needs re-seated.
2. Block and cpu are severely bowed and need lapping. But before you proceed with this use razor method to check block and cpu and test the stock cooler on it to see your temps with it.
3. Not enough pressure for good block-> cpu contact. Test out stock cooler...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Quote:

Originally Posted by G.E.Nauticus View Post
Bout to bounce for the night, If your water temps are decent and you have good flow then its 1 of 3 things...

1. Block needs re-seated.
2. Block and cpu are severely bowed and need lapping. But before you proceed with this use razor method to check block and cpu and test the stock cooler on it to see your temps with it.
3. Not enough pressure for good block-> cpu contact. Test out stock cooler...
Reseated block. Cpu is lapped. Block surface is not bowed.Don't have a stock cooler. Thanks
 

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Scratchin' my head (it ain't bugs
) You said you checked the flatness of the WB and chip, did you check that the WB was tight enough and evenly tightened (G.E.Nauticus brought that up in a previous post)


Did you do the sensor test in Real Temp, if you didn't, perhaps the sensors are stuck at a high temp
Did you take a mirror and flashlight and inspect your WB after mounting
(to see if something's preventing it from seating
)

You said you have good flow (ie turbulence in the rad), so I imagine you have the pressure and return hoses hooked up in their correct sequence
You have your rad intake where it gets cool air and the fans are running, right
(don't laugh, non hooked up fans happens a lot) Maybe the chip sensors are fubared to begin with. Do you know what Real temp and Core Temp are using for your Tjunction temperature (maybe those numbers are off)


I never thought of it, but maybe the WB doesn't have enough pressure to work efficiently (thanks G.E.Nauticus, that's a cookin' ideer)

Good luck with whatever fixes your temp problem. Please post the solution, it's probably something simple and it was overlooked
 
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