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Discussion Starter #1
So, as some of you know I recent built a super nice rig with a phase change cooled 5960x in it. I did lots of reading and prep work to make aure I had everything insulated and done right.

After about 45 days of running with no issues I started having issues... blue screens, hard chrashean dead dimm slots etc... I tried several things but never could get it to normal, even at stock settings.

Today I finally had time to tear it down and this is what I saw.




I had heavily insulated with kneaded eraser on the front and back of the board, dielectric grease in the socketn with paper towels and armaflex over and around the socket front and back.

Im not complaining, becase I knew the risk going inn but it does suck to loose $1500 worth of equipment.

Be warned, stuff does happen!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1526237/the-downside-of-using-a-phase-change-and-or-extreme-cooling/0_100#post_23185774

Quote:
Originally Posted by MunneY View Post

Here are a few more HQ photos... I still can't get them as good as I'd like, without having to pull out my lighting kit... but you can get the jest.






http://www.overclock.net/t/1526237/the-downside-of-using-a-phase-change-and-or-extreme-cooling/0_100#post_23290760
Quote:
In other news, I took a chance this morning and talked to intel. I told them about the CPU and sent them an image and asked if I could go ahead and use my tuning plan. He just immediately filed me a warranty claim and sent it and told me to hold on to my ITP. I shipped the chip off to Intel in Louisville, KY overnight and he said he though it might ship Friday back. If not, it would ship on Monday. I can't really complain about that. They didn't even seem phased by the damage.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1526237/the-downside-of-using-a-phase-change-and-or-extreme-cooling/100_100#post_23326064

Quote:
Alright everyone! I just got word that a new CPU has been shipped from Intel and should be here Monday/Tuesday! Yippie!

Now, lets all pray to the silicon gods that its not a dud clocker.
 

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puke.gif
That has me worried about mine now. I'm not running that extreme (HC500A chiller) but I did the same prep as you minus the eraser. Used Vaseline on the board.. damn
puke.gif
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MunneY View Post

So, as some of you know I recent built a super nice rig with a phase change cooled 5960x in it. I did lots of reading and prep work to make aure I had everything insulated and done right.

After about 45 days of running with no issues I started having issues... blue screens, hard chrashean dead dimm slots etc... I tried several things but never could get it to normal, even at stock settings.

Today I finally had time to tear it down and this is what I saw.




I had heavily insulated with kneaded eraser on the front and back of the board, dielectric grease in the socketn with paper towels and armaflex over and around the socket front and back.

Im not complaining, becase I knew the risk going inn but it does suck to loose $1500 worth of equipment.

Be warned, stuff does happen!
Have you cleaned and tested the chip to see if it is really broken? Could possibly just be the motherboard, since its completely useless because no one will try to fix those pins.
 

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That sucks!

Try to wash the components, dry them out really well and see if you can get them back up running.

When I built my chill-box air conditioner chiller. The inside of the chillbox never came up above freezing (32f) even during the off period at night, this prevented any moisture to build up.

I did have leaks in my chillbox due to poor construction, because it was for a test only, however I noticed that the small amount of frost that formed concentrated it self on the radiator that was cooling the inside air, and the rest of the components remained dry and clean.

I think the problem with insulation is that its hard to be 100% no matter what you do, the thermal cycling of the components will create low and high temperature areas, that will lower and raise the pressure around them, and I think it acts like a slow air pump that pulls humid air and traps it inside, and with each cycle more and more moisture accumulates.

I think people put some type of di-electric grease right in to the socket, you have to read up on this because I never done it before.


 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOPOKE View Post

puke.gif
That has me worried about mine now. I'm not running that extreme (HC500A chiller) but I did the same prep as you minus the eraser. Used Vaseline on the board.. damn
puke.gif
I wouldn't be to worried, I know several peple who never have had issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by malzmidx View Post

Have you cleaned and tested the chip to see if it is really broken? Could possibly just be the motherboard, since its completely useless because no one will try to fix those pins.
I cleaned it pretty well last night and there were some pins so oxidized that I don't think they can be rebent without breaking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by frjoethesecond View Post

What is that? Looks like mold.
Its oxidation
Quote:
Originally Posted by malzmidx View Post

Some kind of oxidation I would assume? Due to moisture getting inside from the phase change.
YUP!
Quote:
Originally Posted by [ShowMe!] View Post

That sucks!

Try to wash the components, dry them out really well and see if you can get them back up running.

When I built my chill-box air conditioner chiller. The inside of the chillbox never came up above freezing (32f) even during the off period at night, this prevented any moisture to build up.

I did have leaks in my chillbox due to poor construction, because it was for a test only, however I noticed that the small amount of frost that formed concentrated it self on the radiator that was cooling the inside air, and the rest of the components remained dry and clean.

I think the problem with insulation is that its hard to be 100% no matter what you do, the thermal cycling of the components will create low and high temperature areas, that will lower and raise the pressure around them, and I think it acts like a slow air pump that pulls humid air and traps it inside, and with each cycle more and more moisture accumulates.

I think people put some type of di-electric grease right in to the socket, you have to read up on this because I never done it before.


Yeah man, I had grease in the socket but apprently not enough... now I know!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwoodsNC View Post

Hate that for you.

Chill box is the way to go. Less risk of that! Got to watch the humidity and that's about it.
I live in Tennessee, we ALWAYS have humidity so it'd be a pain no matter what!
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNOE View Post

Hmmm I wonder if that would have happen if you had the grease ?
I had grease, but apparently not enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rbby258 View Post

You're suppose to really pack the socket with di-electric grease like in the pictures above.
Yeah, I've come to the conclusion that I didn't use nearly enough...
Quote:
Originally Posted by conwa View Post

It looks like the cpu is not damaged.. Try it with another mobo!
I wont have another motherboard for a bit, I'll get some better pictures this afternoon so you guys can really see!

Thanks for all the words, It sucks, but I knew the risk!
 

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Pin Rot
frown.gif


Use it as a learning experience - at least it looks like you can clean up the CPU and just swap the mobo and be back up and running!

Sub Ambient 24/7 takes a lot of preparation, stuff like that happens. I almost killed a brand new 1 month old 7970 when the bolts on my block started condensing and dripped onto the back of it. Had the bottom and everything insulated awesome, but the through bolts got cold enough to condense. Was getting BSOD's and graphical errors that I thought was the OC, but when I shut it down to clean the card I noticed a damp green spot on the back of it around the resistors. Cleaned up the oxidation on the card and I am still using it today almost 2 years later.

Get her back up and keep on chugging
thumb.gif
 

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I run a single stage all the time and I bench with a 3 stage cascade and i haven't had anymore problems since I started greasing the socket I spray with silcon grease then I pack the socket with di- electrice grease. Unfortunately I learned all this the hard way after 2 Fd up MOB
 

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Seems like you've got good advice.
You really need to pack that socket.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Quote:
Originally Posted by GIVEitUP View Post

I run a single stage all the time and I bench with a 3 stage cascade and i haven't had anymore problems since I started greasing the socket I spray with silcon grease then I pack the socket with di- electrice grease. Unfortunately I learned all this the hard way after 2 Fd up MOB
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoL View Post

Seems like you've got good advice.
You really need to pack that socket.
Yup... Now I have to decide what board I'm gonna get to replace this one... Was thinking RVE For the control when benching, but I'm not so sure i wanna drop that coin.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MunneY View Post

Yup... Now I have to decide what board I'm gonna get to replace this one... Was thinking RVE For the control when benching, but I'm not so sure i wanna drop that coin.
Stay with the same board you had, she looks good.
thumb.gif
 

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RVE would be good if you want to push those uncore speeds. Basically has to be a board with the OC socket to get the most out of the uncore without any hardware mods.
 

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Turned my 750D into a chill box. I think you should consider the same thing. I know my setup does not look like a queen but I have always been a function over form type of guy.

Chiller is set at 46 degrees F


















My 850 seasonic died and is on RMA trip







not any fear until 36F

 
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