Overclock.net banner

1 - 20 of 81 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The old lady says that I always trade off or sell my rigs and parts so when I see something that I like or buy sum'n she says "you'll like something else in a few minutes" lol. Soooo I started planning this build about 3 months ago and actually vowed to myself that I would keep it for at least a year.. DANG this will be tough! But in order to accomplish that I'll have to put a lot of thought and work into it so I don't get bored with it so qquickly. So here's my build log, the first one that I have done, and hopefully it'll inspire someone out there to do some mods that they've been wanting to do or maybe even give some ideas for other builds. Thanks for checking out my work!

Okay, here's the starting point, a Xigmatek Elysium case that I found after waiting for months, for 159 bucks..WOOHOO!! Anyway, here's a look at what I have to work with:
*
I set the case next to my Zalman Z11 to give an idea of how big this case is! Personally, I didn't think the Z11 was tiny or anything. So first I had to strip the case to see what I had to prep before any painting or mods...

Here's the stuff that I stripped out of her...


So then it was time for the prepwork, cleaning, papering and taping, and since I had made a deal with my daughter, she get's to pick out the paint for the motherboard tray and rear inside IF she get's an "A" on her algebra test... (we'll see how that goes) but let's get that part taped off as well as prepping the front bezel to see how the red looks on it...



Now, should I go ahead and see what the front bezel will look like with some red on it? Here's what I bought to try out on the bezel and maybe other stuff, who knows?


Well, it doesn't look too awful bad, but I dunno....




Let me say that the top and bottom allen bolts were a major pain to get back on there and the aluminum strips were an even bigger pain getting to lay down flat! I doubt that Xigmatek took too much time lining up the bolt holes when they were drilling the aluminum. I had to use some Gorilla glue under the aluminum between the bolt holes to get her to stay down solid. I also had to cover the wrap-around panel on the top of the case where it met the front bezel too and here's how that turned out (sorry for the resolution, my camera crapped out-waiting for the new one)
Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder 7.0.1041 - Jul 19 2011;
BTW, that's just leaned in place to get an idea of the look of it...I'd already test fitted it but with the case stripped, it wouldn't lock into place anyway. Ok, now of course, she got the "A" so here's what she picked out for the motherboard tray--"cherry bomb" red metalflake...
tongue.gif





So, ok it's not what I personally would've picked out, but I will say that it's grown on me and I really think that after the hardware and lighting is installed, it will actually add some pizzaz to the build. Of course, since she's my daughter, in a roundabout way, I still picked the color because she has at least a smidge of me in there somewhere...lol:thumb:

Now, what should I do? Hmmm, how about getting some of the little bits and pieces of hardware painted and clearcoated. The case hard drive/dvd bay area braces, the slot covers, the upper power supply cover, and the grilles off the bezel that I want to add color to... Oh yeah, the top "X" grill and the side window 200mm fan grill, just in case I want to use it.
So, I sanded, primered, and painted those. Then clearcoated.




Oh yeah I almost forgot the radiators, swiftech dual 140mm quiet power and the black Ice triple 120mm being painted the matching color...
*

*

Well, fellow modders, I am still working on my next move, as I have been modifying my build plan a bit as I go along but I'll have alot more real soon! Possibly some side panel window modding with some red acrylic? Or some candy apple red on some internal case components or shrouds? Who knows? Thanks for checking it out, and I will return.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well, I wasn't sure if I would like the overall look of the paint colors, so I slapped the basics together(just the basic painted/carbon) to see if I want to change it while there's still plenty of time to do it. Here's the pic, but I have to sleep on it, as I'm not sure if I like the colors so far...??

Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder 7.0.1041 - Jul 19 2011;
Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder 7.0.1041 - Jul 19 2011;

I could think that maybe the red acrylic and candy apple pieces will help it out, but I prefer for it to wow me without any of that styuff coming into play...lol
 

·
Twitch Streamer
Joined
·
2,531 Posts
just curious, what paint did you use for the radiators? i want to paint my radiator too but do you need a specific kind? will it come out glossy or would i need to get another spray for that? (i have previously bought a gloss spray to paint some backplates too...)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunset1 View Post

its too hard to tell with the color of the photos.. but all things take time..
Nice to see you doing the build log.. Subbed.
sunset1
You have a good point, sunset, and until I get the new camera, I had to break out the old 8mp... Took those last few with my cruddy webcam. Here's some replacements as well as the h2o block cover that was white and a bit crackly, now red. I also measured and marked the acrylic panels for the windows as well as the replacement panel for the Zalman fan controller that was shipped with a blue panel instead of black. Oh well, all can be fixed! Thanks bud, for subbing, and evryone else!




Here's what the Enzotech waterblock cover looked like when I bought it, albeit for an excellent price:

After alot of careful sanding, primering, more sanding, and finally 2 coats of paint and a THIN coat of clear (all engine type heat resistant paint) here's what I ended up with...
Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder 7.0.1041 - Jul 19 2011;


I still have to cut out the acrylic windows, and trim them out, and possibly have them etched... who knows??



After cutting out the small section that I need for the bezel out of this piece, I could use the rest to seal off the bay areas that I don't want air flowing through.. Maybe all the rad fans pulling in the mobo area could help pull more air through the hard drive cages if they were forced to go a particular route? lol


I'm really not trying to speak in riddles guys, just messin around. Seriously, though, I have this idea that if I seal off everything above the two hard drive cages from the front to the mobo area, except for 2 holes for the water lines to and from the maelstrom, that it will help the airflow through the cages and to the back of the case more efficiently. For that to work, i'll have to make sure to seal off any areas except where I want it to flow. Just thought red acrylic would be a more attractive way to do it. We'll see how it looks and works in the next few days!!
thumb.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aesthethc View Post

just curious, what paint did you use for the radiators? i want to paint my radiator too but do you need a specific kind? will it come out glossy or would i need to get another spray for that? (i have previously bought a gloss spray to paint some backplates too...)
Personally, I always have gotten my paint for anything that has heat as an issue from an auto parts store. I used high gloss enamel with a coat or 2 of clear acrylic enamel with either wet sanding (light) or scuffing with brand new scotch brite inbetween to help with adhesion. Engine paint works very well as does caliper paint as they both are designed for heat, they'll both work for radiators as far as I'm concerned. I painted cars for several years in my younger days, but I don't want to mislead you in reguards to my overall experience in water cooling. This is my first totally custom loop, bud. Dupli color is decent paint as far as brands go, as is Vitcas which is the brand of red that I used on my rads. It's expensive though. Just to give ya an idea of how good it is, the triple rad in my log was lined on 1 side with sticky adhesive that had to be scraped off with a putty knife and taken down to copper. Even with primer, most cheap paints would've showed that a bit without many coats. I heated up the paint and rad with a hair dryer, and shot it and it covered completely with just 2 coats! Great paint!

oldcompgeek
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Quote:
Originally Posted by nyk20z3 View Post

Great work with all the painting so far and i look forward to more progress.
Thanks NYK! After all, you helped make this build happen, and I got that other little pump/res issue fingered out. Have more done by this weekend, and if my window guy isn't too busy hopefully can get them etched by then too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,247 Posts
I dont know what it is about a custom build log but i find myself checking them out whenever i have time.
I think its because i always seem to pick up a new tip or idea and well thats priceless.
Feedback is always good but in the end as long as you are happy with the build, Its a winner.
Keep up the great work.
Sunset
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
To me personally, custom build logs provide an inside look at the modders personality. They take us to a place where, for a short period of time, we get to see and read what they are thinking at that moment.

Feedback is always crucial to everyone. If it wasn't, these forums would not exist.

I always take the time to look over the build logs .. I find them inspiring.

So hats off to all the modders out there .. and believe that there is always at least one person reading and viewing them.

And to the maker of this Build log, Great work so far!!!! Can't wait to see more.
smile.gif


koivu1
 

·
Twitch Streamer
Joined
·
2,531 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcompgeek View Post

Personally, I always have gotten my paint for anything that has heat as an issue from an auto parts store. I used high gloss enamel with a coat or 2 of clear acrylic enamel with either wet sanding (light) or scuffing with brand new scotch brite inbetween to help with adhesion. Engine paint works very well as does caliper paint as they both are designed for heat, they'll both work for radiators as far as I'm concerned. I painted cars for several years in my younger days, but I don't want to mislead you in reguards to my overall experience in water cooling. This is my first totally custom loop, bud. Dupli color is decent paint as far as brands go, as is Vitcas which is the brand of red that I used on my rads. It's expensive though. Just to give ya an idea of how good it is, the triple rad in my log was lined on 1 side with sticky adhesive that had to be scraped off with a putty knife and taken down to copper. Even with primer, most cheap paints would've showed that a bit without many coats. I heated up the paint and rad with a hair dryer, and shot it and it covered completely with just 2 coats! Great paint!

oldcompgeek
how much did you end up paying for the two cans, of high gloss enamel paint and the clear acrylic enamel ? theres literally an autostore right next to the home depot thats next to my house. would you think an auto parts store would over price a bit on the paint, when home depot could carry something like it for cheaper? or is this paint exclusive to only auto stores?

thanks for the advice, im looking on painting a 240mm radiator that i will be mounting on the back of my case. did you just use simple painters tape to cover up the radiator fins?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
It costs 9 to 12 bucks for the paint, depending on metalflake, metallic, or just gloss enamel. Primer is usually just a few bucks.You're probably right, at least part of the time auto parts stores are higher, but for me it's just more convienent as I don't want to drive further to look elsewhere, and other stuff I use is found there. Like using that "door guard" type of edge trim that's used to keep ur doors from bn chipped when u open them... That's my favorite type of poly-acrylic window edging as you have several choices of what type and colors--- chrome-black-gold-red etc... As far as the rad masking thing, I normally use the thick type of "card" stock like the type for printing business cards-about that thickness is good or the roll of the brown painter's paper works good too. As long as it's thin enough to slide behind the side covers a ways and under the tank edging a ways. If ya work with it, it'll go pretty far under all the edges further than you might think to prevent any overspray from getting in the fins. Just line the edge w/good qualkity masking tape and slide it in there w/o letting it touch enough to stick, then when u get it as far as u can, take sumthin thin and press the tape down underneath the edge. You don't have to go to that kinda trouble, but that's what I do. Making sure that it's scuffed between layers is important too, even if it's just a slight scuffing with a new scotch nrite pad and then wiping it with alcohol, as it'll help ur paint stick much better!! That black ice triple was a serious pain, with the adhesive on it, and getting it to not show the difference through the paint was a bummer, just getting it sanded to a gradual copper to paint without showing a line...lol.
You may be able to find good heat resistant paint at lowes or home depot, I'm not sure. Just be careful, some of the paint that's heat resistant isn't really made to lookm as good as others. If you have some type of cleaning agent like denatured alc. or thinner, then acrylic enamel is always more durable in my opinion. Metal specs is decent quality too, and looks great as does VHT. Here's a link to some vht that you can check out and a pic of how well the vht looks.... as long as yoyu like metallic...lol

oldcompgeek

http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP401-Engine-Metallic-Paint/dp/B00296GL2E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362699710&sr=1-1&keywords=vht+metallic+engine+paint

 

·
Twitch Streamer
Joined
·
2,531 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcompgeek View Post

It costs 9 to 12 bucks for the paint, depending on metalflake, metallic, or just gloss enamel. Primer is usually just a few bucks.You're probably right, at least part of the time auto parts stores are higher, but for me it's just more convienent as I don't want to drive further to look elsewhere, and other stuff I use is found there. Like using that "door guard" type of edge trim that's used to keep ur doors from bn chipped when u open them... That's my favorite type of poly-acrylic window edging as you have several choices of what type and colors--- chrome-black-gold-red etc... As far as the rad masking thing, I normally use the thick type of "card" stock like the type for printing business cards-about that thickness is good or the roll of the brown painter's paper works good too. As long as it's thin enough to slide behind the side covers a ways and under the tank edging a ways. If ya work with it, it'll go pretty far under all the edges further than you might think to prevent any overspray from getting in the fins. Just line the edge w/good qualkity masking tape and slide it in there w/o letting it touch enough to stick, then when u get it as far as u can, take sumthin thin and press the tape down underneath the edge. You don't have to go to that kinda trouble, but that's what I do. Making sure that it's scuffed between layers is important too, even if it's just a slight scuffing with a new scotch nrite pad and then wiping it with alcohol, as it'll help ur paint stick much better!! That black ice triple was a serious pain, with the adhesive on it, and getting it to not show the difference through the paint was a bummer, just getting it sanded to a gradual copper to paint without showing a line...lol.
You may be able to find good heat resistant paint at lowes or home depot, I'm not sure. Just be careful, some of the paint that's heat resistant isn't really made to lookm as good as others. If you have some type of cleaning agent like denatured alc. or thinner, then acrylic enamel is always more durable in my opinion. Metal specs is decent quality too, and looks great as does VHT. Here's a link to some vht that you can check out and a pic of how well the vht looks.... as long as yoyu like metallic...lol

oldcompgeek

http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP401-Engine-Metallic-Paint/dp/B00296GL2E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362699710&sr=1-1&keywords=vht+metallic+engine+paint

thanks for the advice, will try out painting my rads next week or so.
good luck to your build!
thumb.gif
+REP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,504 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcompgeek View Post

It costs 9 to 12 bucks for the paint, depending on metalflake, metallic, or just gloss enamel. Primer is usually just a few bucks.You're probably right, at least part of the time auto parts stores are higher, but for me it's just more convienent as I don't want to drive further to look elsewhere, and other stuff I use is found there
oldcompgeek
got to back you on this one, was in the motor industry for over 25 years and yes the paint from auto stores can be a little more expensive it is a lot better then the auto paint sold in hardware store. unless its the same brand. just watch out not all auto paint is the same!!!
thumb.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Well, I went to install the mcp350 underneath the maelstrom and noticed a wire broiken off the pump.


P.S. no making fun of my old person keyboard, my old lady and kids thought it was hilarious and bought it for me.... Heck yeah I'll use it...
Anyway, I got lucky and found that one of the two wire ends coming off the pump was shiny so I knew wheere to reconnect it... wish I knew for sure wat the fourth wire did... Got her reconnected, put the base back on the pump, and installed the new top and pump to the maelstrom.


Goling to run parallel, 1 to cpu, memory, and vrm's and 1 to gpu's, and bridges... So I had to have two feed line fittings set up and two return line fittings set up. May do a bit of swapping depending on what works best during final assembly. Have plenty of enzotech fittings and tees thanks to my 60 buck purchase on here-he even sent a pack of new o-riungs... Gave the pump and res a quick test and all's good for now.
I also dropped off the red transparent acrylic to my glass dude to have it cut and sanded smooth, for the windows as well as for a new front for this fan controller--came with a blue front instead of black.
Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder 7.0.1041 - Jul 19 2011;
Needed an analog controller as well as the poweradsjust 2... actually ended up with a 3rd that I didnt expect to have. Waiting on the black onyx tubing to get here as well as the rgb bay lcd display panel and my black 3m carbon... Dang shippers.
I will have more to show y'all early next week when I get the glass back and a couple other Ideas that I'm working on.

Oh yeah, still gotta sleeve the power supply, among other wires, and install the 5 fans on the rad's as well as get the UV lights and sunbeam light installed too WHEW!!

Just wanted to add, that watchin' Duck Dynasty is my new inspiration for mod ideas--- Reminds me of growin' up in the Illinois sticks Lookin' forward to our weekly weekend famiuly camping trips. I wonder if puttin' cedar on a case would look outta place?

Received the feser red uv dye as well as what I thought was the rgb LCD display, but was a TADDD diferent from what was expected...lol. Gotta get busy finishing pwr supply sleeving among others as well as some grille paint, lighting, and still waiting on the black onyx tubing to be able to braid the tubing...

I'll get some more progress pics up by monday...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Okay, fellas the dang shipment showing it's in "heights,MI" is really holding me up... although did get some done this weekend... Here's some of what I accomplished.

First, I had to replace the blade on my band saw...then cut the inner panel that will seal off above the dual 140 rad and test fit it...


Then, drilled out the bracket and both 1/2" tubing pass-thru holes for the black and red tubing, and usedc rubber washers to secure the acrylic panel. I'll use my painted washers and screws for final assembly as well as clear silicone to seal it off so the dual 140 rad draws air from the front instead of pulling air (and dust) from around the bay devices up top.



I then got to sleeving what I could until my sleeving/pin removal tool arrives with my late shipment. Got the maelstrom wiring that would show, as well as the power switch line sleeved.


Worked on the Zalman fan controller today as well, considering that I was supposed to get a black one, I cut a new face plate from the Blue one and drilled it out today... Then installed it to the PCB and set it in the case to see how she looked... although she does need polished up don't look too bad for a amateur...lol
Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder 7.0.1041 - Jul 19 2011;


And now it's time to get as much prepped for tomorrow as possible, hoping that by 11A.M. I will have the late shipment containing my black 3M carbon, sleeving tool, poweradjust 2 USB and faceplate, NZXT USB hub, rad mounting universal brackets, dual 140 striped aluminum grille, 480 x 480 UV red transparent acrylic, rubber edging for the acrylic, both bridge blocks, memory sinks for the gpu's, and my second swiftech 82 universal gpu block. I'll have more pictures as soon as I get my goodies guys and will hopefully complete the mission by Sunday night!!!



I did get the triple Black Ice mounted up top, and still don't know what I'm going to do with these spectre fans after I cvhanged my mind on some design ideas...??!! Guess y'all will just have to tune in next week and see...!!


 
1 - 20 of 81 Posts
Top