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I like how you call it indirect injection. Like direct injection is the norm over there.

Also the united states is the saudi arabia of natural gas. We have so much of it producers burn off excess capacity at the site in a process called venting. And yet we only really see large semi trucks running on that fuel. Always made me wonder why, and from what I'm told LPG/natural gas converted diesel engines run poorly and have mechanical problems in cold temperatures.
Don't you mean flaring?
 

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Meanwhile here in the Netherlands we have LPG at more then half the gas stations but no one drives it since the LPG is super cheap compared to petrol however we have to pay a massive premium on the road taxes compared to petrol so it ends up being more expensive in most cases.
 

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Eastern Bloc Electronics
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Over here there is no road tax as it's within the fuel price.

So the fuel is still less than half the price but you only pay bit extra for insurance (depends) and inspection (2x).
Also the united states is the saudi arabia of natural gas. We have so much of it producers burn off excess capacity at the site in a process called venting. And yet we only really see large semi trucks running on that fuel. Always made me wonder why, and from what I'm told LPG/natural gas converted diesel engines run poorly and have mechanical problems in cold temperatures.
CNG (compressed natural gas) requires high pressure tanks.
Those are either expensive (composite materials) or heavy (thick steel).
The main advantage is that you use gas directly from city lines so the quality is the same everywhere.
In Poland it's nonexistent, other than public buses. There's around 20 CNG stations compared to over 6000 LPG.
LPG is pretty much on almost every fuel station so there's no range problem. You can switch to petrol if you run out of LPG anyway.

Diesel requires a mix of diesel and CNG to run.
Petrol engines can run directly on CNG.

LPG is liquid petroleum gas. The hardware is cheaper so it's very popular over here.
4 cylinder engine installation costs something around 500USD mark.
For 6 cylinder engine it would be roughly 800-1000USD.
Tank doesn't have to handle massive pressures and the fuel station doesn't need an expensive compressor.
It's different from natural gas, you get LPG from crude oil refining while natural gas is well, natural.


With direct injection engines the LPG doesn't require an evaporator but just like direct gasoline injection it's a complex mechanism.
A 4 cylinder direct injection installation costs pretty much double.
Gasoline injector just injects LPG instead of petrol.
That is a sixth generation installation.
With indirect injection the engine has to warm up running on gasoline as the heat is needed to evaporate LPG and turn it into gas form.
And then there's an extra set of injectors for LPG that has to be installed.
It's a popular fourth generation installation.

Fifth generation is also for direct injection but the engine has to use both petrol and LPG.
Extra set of injectors spray liquid LPG into the intake while gasoline injectors spray a reduced amount of petrol.
Otherwise the gasoline injectors would overheat, as the petrol cools them.
That's why sixth gen is so good.
No gasoline required at any point (no warm up), engine performance is the same and fuel consumption increase is rather small.
Especially Mazda Skyactiv works really well on LPG, high pressure means the new fuel is burning very efficiently.
 

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Dunno. I've heard it called both. But it just amounts to gas being burned off.
From how I've learned about these things, venting is usually to atmosphere (typically happens to protect equipment, for example if a plant loses power), while problematic gasses, oil, etc get sent to the flares (hence the term). Although you could say "venting to flare", so I suppose it's not that simple.
 

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I was under the impression LPG and natural gas in engines was interchangeable. Turns out I was wrong haha.

I have a ton of replacement wear parts to go on my Avalon. Mainly new rear calipers + pads, new rotors, both serpentine belts, new motor mounts, new poly sway bar links + bushings, the list goes on. All told I paid under $100 for everything which just blows my mind. I literally paid something like $7 each for the good brand rear rotors, and IIRC the calipers were $16 each. On my parents Jeep we are looking at $70 a piece for front rotors and $60 each for rears. And the auto parts store online coupons are being phased out which means we should buy them sooner rather than later...

I should have installed everything over the summer but kept getting sick which makes working on the car less fun. At least I won't be sweating myself to death doing it now.
 

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A buddy of mine bought a low mileage 370Z. Haven't ridden in it but I'd imagine I will get the chance before too long. He says it gets tremendously good gas mileage which I am doubtful of, but his last vehicle was a Tahoe so it probably is just better by comparison.

He's already got a few mods installed and is planning a supercharger soon so it should be a fun car. Wouldn't be opposed at all to hooning around town in it haha.
 

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A buddy of mine bought a low mileage 370Z. Haven't ridden in it but I'd imagine I will get the chance before too long. He says it gets tremendously good gas mileage which I am doubtful of, but his last vehicle was a Tahoe so it probably is just better by comparison.

He's already got a few mods installed and is planning a supercharger soon so it should be a fun car. Wouldn't be opposed at all to hooning around town in it haha.
I've been averaging about 22.6mpg in my G37 7at. The Z is a bit lighter so I could see 24-25mpg avg if he doesn't hammer the throttle. It's good relative to older N/A performance cars I suppose, but modern turbo models are far more efficient.

On another note, installed some LED fogs. Much to my disappointment they still have a neon/highlighter yellow look to them vs the Incadescent Nokya Hyper Yellows. The LED's claim to be 3000k and the Nokya's were 2700k. Still better than the near neon green one's that claimed to be yellow when I had my Hyundai. Swapped those out real fast when another car complimented on how green they are and asked where he could get them.

Is there an LED out there that actually puts out a proper Euro/JDM yellow?
 

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Eastern Bloc Electronics
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2463631


Found a screenshot file.
725k km / 453k miles

And folks over here still believe the 200k km myth.
 

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Found a screenshot file.
725k km / 453k miles

And folks over here still believe the 200k km myth.
Folks over there are probably used to Chevrolet throw away car quality. I had bought a brand new top spec Chevrolet truck and it was regularly failing and having severe problems by 30k miles/ 48k Km. It spent more time being towed to the shop than it did bringing me to work.
 

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I have found my new project. Only thing that can still throw a wrench in my plans to buy it is when I look at it tomorrow and it has crippling rust issues but otherwise it's mine.

A '94 Toyota Celica T20 with a 7A-FE 1.8 with 274k km. It's 900 bucks as the clear coat I completely gone on it but I don't care about the paint. It's getting a full body kit and probably a respray or wrap anyway.

And most importantly, engine. It has full service history, a cambelt in 2018 at 255k and such but even if the engine is bad I can get a seriously cheap 3SFE swap as those engines sourced from a RAV4/Picnic cost next to nothing here anyway so. I already looked around for them and a 78k km 3SFE from a picnic can be bought for as little as 350 bucks so.
 

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Celica sounds like a fun cheap project. Even with the engine swap you will be in it for less than I'm about to spend on a hard top for my Miata lol.

I'm preparing to get really frustrated this weekend. I'm finally selling my Silverado and want to change the oil and clean it up a bit since it's been sitting since the beginning of the 'rona. Oil drain plug is pretty much completely rounded off so I expect it to be a huge pain.
 

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I noticed the Mondeo was leaking again. It seems like when the tailgate wiring grommet leaked last year and I sealed it with silicone, it has since failed and was letting water in again.

The area at the top of the tailgate on a mk3 mondeo is triple skinned, and instead of dropping straight down onto the headlining, was dropping in between one of the skin layers, then running down the inside of the C pillar and ending up in the boot. Of course, if I put paper behind the grommet to test it, I could only access the layers which were dry, so it was a pain to track the source, but I think I've done it now. At least I really hope so. I'm fed up with that car leaking.

The grommet was so coated in sillicone from before I decided to just change the whole wiring loom and start again. So I did. This time using a non setting type I've had good results with in the past.

As for the XJS, I had to bleed the brakes again but they're much better now. The hoses we had don't fit the nipples very well so it was hard to bleed without introducing more air into the system. I've still got a lot to do on that car to make up for its many years of neglected maintaince, but the list is much shorter than it was.

What's left is a bunch of various oil leaks at the top of the engine that need sealing and cleaning up, 12 stuck spark plugs, a precautionary fan blade replacement, a rotor arm modification, fuel hoses and filter, and brake accumulator sphere. Nothing majorly difficult or expensive, but it's all time consuming and weather permitting, since this car doesn't fit in the garage. The spark plugs scare me though. They haven't been changed nearly enough and I tried removing one with a socket wrench and couldn't do it. I'm worried the threads will strip since it's an aluminium head.
 

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Ordered a set of shorty headers for the Avalon. I looked over the exhaust condition after the pot hole incident and did an air pressure test and am not happy with all the air leaks. I could weld the leaks closed but that's not a great solution to me. I'd rather pick up a few HP/TQ and fix the exhaust leak at the same time.

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I have found my new project. Only thing that can still throw a wrench in my plans to buy it is when I look at it tomorrow and it has crippling rust issues but otherwise it's mine.

A '94 Toyota Celica T20 with a 7A-FE 1.8 with 274k km. It's 900 bucks as the clear coat I completely gone on it but I don't care about the paint. It's getting a full body kit and probably a respray or wrap anyway.

And most importantly, engine. It has full service history, a cambelt in 2018 at 255k and such but even if the engine is bad I can get a seriously cheap 3SFE swap as those engines sourced from a RAV4/Picnic cost next to nothing here anyway so. I already looked around for them and a 78k km 3SFE from a picnic can be bought for as little as 350 bucks so.
Nice choice and excellent sporty little cars from that gen celica. They also have enough room for a 1MZ-FE swap and then you'd have the same engine as whats in my Avalon now.

Out of curiosity do you have/can find the 3SGTE in your part of the world? That's a phenomenal engine even when left bone stock and one I'd be strongly going for personally. This is essentially Toyota's answer to the Nissan SR20DET and is nearly as bulletproof as the turbo JZ engines.
 

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Nice choice and excellent sporty little cars from that gen celica. They also have enough room for a 1MZ-FE swap and then you'd have the same engine as whats in my Avalon now.

Out of curiosity do you have/can find the 3SGTE in your part of the world? That's a phenomenal engine even when left bone stock and one I'd be strongly going for personally. This is essentially Toyota's answer to the Nissan SR20DET and is nearly as bulletproof as the turbo JZ engines.
Yes I can around €1500-2000. We also got the MR2 Turbo with that engine and the Celica as well but limited.

Shame is, even tho I called the seller in advance and asked if it had rust he assured me it didn't but I got there and both door bottoms are completely gone and the left rear arch at the bottom on the bumper was literally duct taped up to keep the rust from falling out. Didn't buy it obviously.

I mean, I can do mechanical work just fine and a bit of paintwork as well (got a proper air compressor and paint gun but no booth) but I can't really do metal work as I'm not a great welder and I don't have a welder suitable for it either.

The search continues.. I did see something else entirely again lol. A Citroen C2 VTS 132k km 2 owners and history present. It's light, has a TU5JP4S which is a very solid engine and is in great shape judging by the pics...we shall see!
 

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My parents Jeep is rolling backwards a bit while starting out up hill, plus some slipping under moderate to heavy acceleration. Also noticed some surging when driving at a steady speed which feels like I'm towing a trailer when i'm not. Trouble is it's an automagic trans and not a fancy dual clutch one either, it has the Mercedes 5 speed transmission in it which is known to be pretty strong. At just over 100K miles though and I hope it's just a case of needing a fresh filter and new fluid.
 

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Dang I hate it when the automagic leaks out of the tranny and it stops tranny-ing correctly. My ex-wife had an Avenger that had those same symptoms at around 35k miles. Ended up just trading the car in since we were already wanting something larger at the time.

You slap those headers on your Avalon yet?

In other automotive news: Silverado is gone. Was probably my favorite of the 3 I've had. Next time I get the truck urge, I want to go with a 70's c10. Going to live with just the Miata for a while. After I move, I'll pick up a Civic or something similar to daily.

2465835
 

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Nope on the headers - Too cold outside at the moment. I have a good friend with a heated shop and a lift that I might bribe into letting me do the work there though.

The 70's Chevy pickem ups were super durable and well built. They are seriously nice trucks but they do ride a bit rough and the interior is fairly sparse compared to a modern truck. I rode in trucks like that a lot as a kid. Also railroad tracks are especially harsh so going with air shocks in the rear is probably a nice improvement.
 

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It doesn't really get that cold here but I still wish I knew a friend with a lift. I just hate doing things on jack stands.

I also grew up riding around in older trucks so I'm used to it. I almost scooped up a great deal on a 74 a couple years ago. Unfortunately that same ex-wife came along and refused to let me buy it.
 

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toast toast!
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Nope on the headers - Too cold outside at the moment. I have a good friend with a heated shop and a lift that I might bribe into letting me do the work there though.

The 70's Chevy pickem ups were super durable and well built. They are seriously nice trucks but they do ride a bit rough and the interior is fairly sparse compared to a modern truck. I rode in trucks like that a lot as a kid. Also railroad tracks are especially harsh so going with air shocks in the rear is probably a nice improvement.
Having this problem too. Had like 1 okish day which wasn't enough, but I was too tired. Lots of rain today. Tomorrow it's going to be dry but about 5c colder. Will see how I feel about that.
 
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