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I’m thinking of going push/pull and also having the pull fans inside the case instead of 4 fans on either side of the rad on the outside, otherwise it becomes very thick up front and will create more work going into the distro plate which defeats the purpose of the distro making runs easier. I could spring for a slim rad I guess. My HWLabs SR2 is 60mm. It just performs well and I don’t particularly need to buy a new rad.

Looks like I just need longer m4.0 screws to go through the back of inside fans.

Also not sure about the wiring for the front case panel being in the way of the top fan, though I have never actually used any of the front panel ports because that side of the case is right up against the wall and I removed the circuit board prior to powder coating so could literally just leave it off and forget it altogether.

I also had a few beers and thought about taking one of the P7 side chassis, turning it horizontal and mounting it to the top of the P5 with a slight front bias to make sure I don’t prevent the back panel from coming off. Large enough nuts and bolts should be fine. Then I can mount another rad horizontally to that and things above it.

So far this build is going nowhere fast, lol. Just so many ideas coming to me and tough because I need to preserve the powder coat so I don’t really have the ability to do much trial and error.

Edit: here's what I was talking about with the P7 chassis joining the top of the P5.

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I'd cover it in either a vinyl wrap or the mirror stuff I was going to use and cut holes in the bottom half for the rad/fans. I have an existing HWLabs SR-2 360 I could re-use or maybe get one with with a top and bottom port to make runs easier. It could go from CPU or VRM to "bottom" port of the rad, then out the "top" to the next rad. In the top half of the P7 section I can mount some things including my Hue+ controller and a Barrow LCD monitor I've been checking out.

I'm completely convinced I could pull this off but it also just seems way too absurd and I know it'll be such a headache. A little nervous about having to pick this entire thing up to move it to the living room to do any real work/cleaning too. The weight I can handle but even this current build is a little precarious when it comes to getting a tight grip from the sides.
 

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I looked into this distro (before going with the one from Barrow) and when I inquired with a vendor about using external pump they mentioned an additional part you had to buy that apparently doesn't come with it and they weren't sure where to get one.

I also wanted to keep using my D5 and went with the Barrow. New build hasn't started yet but it feels solid. I would look into it.
Which barrow plate did you end up going with? I don't really like the big L Shaped one but the water channels actually make sense on it. The straight "I" shaped one, the water channels are the dumbest setup, the whole 4 individual rads thing isa bit stupid to me....

Thats why i liked the Bykski one, but that damn pump! I've been enquiring about how to use an external pump (some ad's say you can use one no problem but no info on HOW to use one....)
From close examination of the all photo's ive been able to find of any of the Bykski Distros with DDC pumps, it seems like theres 2 holes drilled in the plate, then a square adapter plate overtop of them, then the pump mounts into that (and lines up with the inlet/outlet holes). I just wonder if those 2 holes are threaded holes, so if you remove the square adapter plate you could just screw in a couple fittings and away you go.....

I have a feeling the piece your guy was referring too is the square adapter, if you look at say a P7 Distro plate, it runs a D5 and the plate looks like a similar drilled hole/adapter setup, im guessing hes talking about that but as said, i literally havn't found a single place to buy one....
 

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Which barrow plate did you end up going with? I don't really like the big L Shaped one but the water channels actually make sense on it. The straight "I" shaped one, the water channels are the dumbest setup, the whole 4 individual rads thing isa bit stupid to me....

Thats why i liked the Bykski one, but that damn pump! I've been enquiring about how to use an external pump (some ad's say you can use one no problem but no info on HOW to use one....)
From close examination of the all photo's ive been able to find of any of the Bykski Distros with DDC pumps, it seems like theres 2 holes drilled in the plate, then a square adapter plate overtop of them, then the pump mounts into that (and lines up with the inlet/outlet holes). I just wonder if those 2 holes are threaded holes, so if you remove the square adapter plate you could just screw in a couple fittings and away you go.....

I have a feeling the piece your guy was referring too is the square adapter, if you look at say a P7 Distro plate, it runs a D5 and the plate looks like a similar drilled hole/adapter setup, im guessing hes talking about that but as said, i literally havn't found a single place to buy one....
yeah it’s not the L shaped one. I can’t use that because I have a 480mm rad. I believe the model name is the LRC 2.0 or something like that.

Edit: Actually I guess they're both called LRC 2.0 but here it is: Barrow LRC 2.0 Aurora Waterway Plate for Thermaltake Core P5 Open Type PC Case (titanrig.com)
 

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yeah it’s not the L shaped one. I can’t use that because I have a 480mm rad. I believe the model name is the LRC 2.0 or something like that.

Edit: Actually I guess they're both called LRC 2.0 but here it is: Barrow LRC 2.0 Aurora Waterway Plate for Thermaltake Core P5 Open Type PC Case (titanrig.com)
Ah yeah thats the other one i was looking at, just the water paths are just weird, i mean they make sense for a Rad setup like how the pics show but who would really have that setup.....Did you just not use some of the paths? got any pics of it in use? Just trying to figure out if i should keep trying down the road of the Bykski board, or give up and go for the Barrow like yours....
 

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Ah yeah thats the other one i was looking at, just the water paths are just weird, i mean they make sense for a Rad setup like how the pics show but who would really have that setup.....Did you just not use some of the paths? got any pics of it in use? Just trying to figure out if i should keep trying down the road of the Bykski board, or give up and go for the Barrow like yours....
I haven’t started building yet but yea I’m not getting four 120 rads to run that ridiculous looking setup lol. I’ll use whichever ports help me do straight runs because I’m using metal tubes, the only pre-bent type I have is a 90 and I’m trying to avoid having to do a bunch of fitting-tube-fitting-tube type of connections.
 

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I haven’t started building yet but yea I’m not getting four 120 rads to run that ridiculous looking setup lol. I’ll use whichever ports help me do straight runs because I’m using metal tubes, the only pre-bent type I have is a 90 and I’m trying to avoid having to do a bunch of fitting-tube-fitting-tube type of connections.
Sounds like it'll be a nice looking build though, my last one was a all straight with elbows build, looked nice but im in it to bend it all this time (Though i may also just go back to a soft tube build, havn't done one in years, i kinda miss those super chunky thick walled tubes)

Keen to see how the board looks and how you set it up though.
 

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The more I try to envision runs with this distro, the more I realize how much easier it would be to just to reuse most of my current setup with a new res tube and maybe new pump or pump-res combo, then essentially make the metal tubes mirror the current runs. I actually ordered the EK quantum kinetic 300 res/pump combo just in case, as it's a free return if unused.

Not being able to get my hands on a 3080Ti is really f'ing this entire process up. I'm getting my fittings this weekend and I guess I'll have drain and remove my 2080Ti and stick it in to help me nail down exactly how the runs will go. There's a possibility I say screw it and either use the EK combo or just get a new res tube in clear color and a new EK pump for my existing Monsoon setup since the current one has been running a decent while. Of course then I'd have to sell my EK Quantum D5 + top combo and the distro and that perhaps wouldn't be a big deal if I could post to sell on this site but I of course lack the rep. I'd also be left with a bunch of useless fittings which weren't cheap. This hobby can be really annoying sometimes.
 

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Really doesn't bode well for me buying one lmao. I think the only one i would buy, that actually makes any sense at all is the "L" shaped one, as i run a triple rad it'd actually all fit but yeah i think the same half the time, just keep running with the Tube res i have (EK pump top/tube res combo, though i think this time round i'd buy a replacement, longer tube).

Ugh, want to run something different and colourful/cool looking like a distro plate but its just a big let down on how they're made ....
 

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Really doesn't bode well for me buying one lmao. I think the only one i would buy, that actually makes any sense at all is the "L" shaped one, as i run a triple rad it'd actually all fit but yeah i think the same half the time, just keep running with the Tube res i have (EK pump top/tube res combo, though i think this time round i'd buy a replacement, longer tube).

Ugh, want to run something different and colourful/cool looking like a distro plate but its just a big let down on how they're made ....
Yeah I’m gonna aim to use the distro because I want to do something new and have a new look but this is clearly more restrictive flow just for aesthetics and if it becomes too big of a pain I’m not going to force it. If I don’t use it and you decide you still want it I’ll sell you the distro for cheap, lol.
 

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Well after some thinking I nixed the distro. Just too many runs will end up being pointlessly complicated and reduce flow for no particularly good reason and while the aesthetics might be cool I realized I paid all this money for a custom powder-coating on the case just to cover up 1/5th of it with a distro and mirror panel.

Enter the Bitspower 400mm reservoir. Was on sale on Performance-PCs for $37 and for the size and the fact it includes a down-stem I don't feel bad about wasting the $120 on the distro. If anyone wants the distro, by the way: I'll sell for $60 + shipping, lol.

 
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I might have thought about taking it off your hands if you were in Australia :p

Alas i've dropped the Distro too and gone back to the trusty old EK D5 CSQ Res (the older square looking pump head not the rounded one, which imo looks better. Same one as Jay from jayztwocent is using in his latest skunkworks rebuild video).

Just currently designing up a new bracket to fit into the 2 screw holes for the stock TT pump shelf (at the bottom under your res there) then i'm going to 3D Print it out!
Look into getting a longer res tube too hopefully fill out some of the space..... depending on overhang from my 3080 FTW3 (which i just got a Bykski block for).


Looked at a couple of universal distros but just going to be too much work i think.

Another thing i might buy is a set of Jonsbo F1R fans out of Aliexpress with the "reverse blade" design (so you don't have the motor frame in the way, purely for looks), this way the air will be "pulled" through the rear of the case/dust filter rather than pushed through it (where all the dust hits the fan/rad first), probably set them up in push/pull with my tried and true Gentle Typhoons :)
 

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I might have thought about taking it off your hands if you were in Australia :p

Alas i've dropped the Distro too and gone back to the trusty old EK D5 CSQ Res (the older square looking pump head not the rounded one, which imo looks better. Same one as Jay from jayztwocent is using in his latest skunkworks rebuild video).

Just currently designing up a new bracket to fit into the 2 screw holes for the stock TT pump shelf (at the bottom under your res there) then i'm going to 3D Print it out!
Look into getting a longer res tube too hopefully fill out some of the space..... depending on overhang from my 3080 FTW3 (which i just got a Bykski block for).


Looked at a couple of universal distros but just going to be too much work i think.

Another thing i might buy is a set of Jonsbo F1R fans out of Aliexpress with the "reverse blade" design (so you don't have the motor frame in the way, purely for looks), this way the air will be "pulled" through the rear of the case/dust filter rather than pushed through it (where all the dust hits the fan/rad first), probably set them up in push/pull with my tried and true Gentle Typhoons :)
Interested to see your pump bracket.

Speaking of push-pull - I think I mentioned earlier I wanted to do it but avoid having everything mounted on the front. So, with some longer radiator screws I put the additional 4 fans inside the case:






After a lot of anxiety I finally drilled the two holes for GPU cables and USB cables with the chrome grommets I got on Amazon to match the look. Top cut wasn't great but grommet hides it.





Lastly, I wanted to mount the PSU horizontally to make space for a LCD monitor and the DualSense mount under the motherboard - which I still have to completely figure out - but couldn't find the brackets from the P3 (where PSU is horizontal) for sale and thought about some different options. Originally I was going to use some generic black L brackets and then I found these chrome shelf mounts to fit the theme and the PSU will just sit on top of them. After drilling and nut/bolt securement, looks like it'll work perfectly



 
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Oh nice work, that paint looks so good in the different light angles, kinda wished the PSU could be mounted that way, contemplated making brackets (probably design and print some lol), or might just make an entire PSU shroud incorporating a screen.

I started designing up a bracket today, should know soon if its going to fit (printing now lol)
Heres a snip


Pretty basic but atleast don't need to hack anything
 

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I wish you lived in the US. I would personally commission you for prints and pay you well, lol.

Change of plan: Bitspower 400mm res just too long for the tube runs I want to do. Makes things unnecessarily complicated so I grabbed the 300 tube. Mounted with some offsets, should allow me to do a straight 90 degree run from the rad to inlet of res and straight 90 degree run from rad to the VRM block





I think my 8.8” lcd hardware monitor may end up just being 3M attached to the panel that covers the M.2s on the mobo with an offset supporting it from the bottom-most edge. I could maybe do some combination of L brackets but the space to fit that and the DualSense mount between the bottom of the motherboard and top of the PSU is unlikely to be possible without the DS sitting right in front of the screen. As a rule I try to avoid adhesive mounting things but I think this will actually work out well.

PS: the weird pattern you see in the LCD and on the mobo panels is the reflection of the stucco ceiling in the living room, lol
 
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Lol, i've only just got my self built CoreXY printing properly too, prints much nicer than my old A8 (which still does structural/non pretty prints lol)
Is that one of the AliExpress screens i've seen get posted around? or from somewhere else? The whole screen in pc thing has been on my ToDo for years lol

I finished my design, just gotta actually mount it in place, but i did upload it to Thingiverse for all the download and print
 

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Lol, i've only just got my self built CoreXY printing properly too, prints much nicer than my old A8 (which still does structural/non pretty prints lol)
Is that one of the AliExpress screens i've seen get posted around? or from somewhere else? The whole screen in pc thing has been on my ToDo for years lol

I finished my design, just gotta actually mount it in place, but i did upload it to Thingiverse for all the download and print
I assume you can get it on AliExpress but I got mine on Amazon:

Amazon.com: 8.8 inch 1920x480 AIDA64 CPU Temperature Monitor IPS LCD Screen for Cars Monitor GPU Computer Case Sub Display Raspberry Pi MIPI DIY Kits: Computers & Accessories

Honestly the build quality is solid and the picture quality is excellent. Let's see if it lasts but I'm impressed so far. I wish existing monitoring software had way more options in resizing the window so I could throw them on instead of having to purchase AIDA64 but I guess at least I'll have a lot more customization with the latter.

I like your shelf. Looking at it from the back, if I could print a much larger version with minor tweaks I would love to put my PSU on it, with the hole fitting the PSU fan facing down and then mount the LCD to that flat part. That would be perfect!
 

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I like your shelf. Looking at it from the back, if I could print a much larger version with minor tweaks I would love to put my PSU on it, with the hole fitting the PSU fan facing down and then mount the LCD to that flat part. That would be perfect!
Hmmmmm, now you've got me thinking, shelf it like that and maybe a ring at the side to wrap around one of the front panel steel legs for extra support.
Then maybe a shroud straight up to the bottom of the vertical GPU mount with the screen in it (for me, i wouldn't put anything else there so it'd just close it all off/fill it out, nice place to hide all the extra cables without having to squeeze them in the back lol)
 

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I love all the spaces and threaded holes in this case. Mounting the res only required drilling once for the top left hole in the upper mount.

First thing I've learned after never having to use the deburring tool on PETG: it seems essential for brass. The cut is too sharp to force the tube into a fitting because it seems like it gets caught on the O rings - whereas I think PETG gives way if you apply enough force - so you need to smooth out the brass before you can get it fully in.

Also realized a much better approach to leak testing is installing 1 or 2 runs at a time and using soft tubes for the remainder before continuing. If you connect everything and have multiple leaks, you have to disconnect multiple inter-connected runs. In this case I put the rad > res and res > pump on because I'm not ready for anything else and decided to test just those two for 30 mins with no issues.

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Only slight concern so far is this EK D5 combo unit seems noticeably louder than my current D5 (also G2 motor) in my Monsoon pump enclosure. My old setup is still up so I compared. Pumps both running at max speed. I think once I get the loop completely together, fill it and bleed bubbles maybe it'll quieten down because it doesn't seem right that a custom built enclosure by EK for their own pump would be louder than what seems a much simpler design by Monsoon where you literally just drop the motor into a housing with some foam at the bottom. Even though with my headphones the EK version won't bother me I want to retain the low noise levels; worst case I'll remove the motor and put it in the Monsoon enclosure.
 

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That tube looks awesome! Coming along nicely! Definitely makes sense that a straight up metal tube would produce sharper unyielding edges than a relatively soft plastic like PETG.

What RAD is that? I like that it has 2 sets of fittings, i've only got a 360 rad but i'll be looking to upgrade to a 480 (got the space, might aswell use it), extra fittings like that would be handy for getting the air out (which i've always had trouble doing with this particular case on all my hardline builds, just too hard to shake it out lol, this time round i'm doing a soft tube build so it'll be much easier).

Got the mount painted up and mounted tonight,fits in well, just need to source up a 250mm tube to replace the baby one on this combo res....

Also how is the D5 in the monsoon enclosure mounted? Could the extra noise heard be from vibrations transferred into the case from the direct mounting?
I kept the rubber mounts on this combo res for that particular reason

I've got some EK Mystic Fog coolant that i want to possibly use a couple LED mounting models like these

To go on the res for that RGB'ness, but mainly to inject the RGB into the mystic fog to really show it off (one of those water distros would have looked awesome with the Fog coolant, but i'll settle for a nice long res tube)
2518999
 

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With PSU being horizontal I removed the sticker from the top, cleaned the residual adhesive with Goo Gone and tried my hand at carbon fiber vinyl wrap. Ended up decent but having really clean cuts on the edges was tough and I wasn't satisfied, so instead I tried the mirror adhesive stuff I have and I think it fits the theme better and was much easier to cut with smooth edges.

Stuck a 3M magnet and attached the DualSense mount just to give me an idea of the look of the controller on this build. The magnet is strong as hell and this is such a much easier mounting option but having the controller right against the case will make it a tight fit with the hardware monitor above so I think I'll end up connecting some L brackets so the controller sticks out from the front of the case like my current build. Still, this is the basic idea and I haven't decided if I'm going to go with the midnight black or original DualSense:






Bought this light strip on Amazon just to see if I could use it anywhere and threw it behind the res. It's magnetic and honestly looks great and gives it a trippy look. Hooked up to the same controller as the EK D5 to sync them up and it resembles the crystal look of my G-Skill Trident Z. I'm pretty sure they literally just ripped it right from that design, lol



 
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