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Being only 15; I wanted to make an easy voyeour into watercooling by purchasing the CoolerMaster R120 Aquagate. As you know, the tubes are black and boring. I'd like to change the tubing to clear as I've heard people have done this before. A few questions.
Has anyone ever attempted this or seen attempts recorded?
The only reason I'm curious as to why it wouldn't work is how I would get the liquid back in after pulling the tubes out; seeing as it's a sealed system.
Adding a Resevoir is pretty much out of the question.
Also, what size is the tubing on the R120?
HELPHELPHELP.
 

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Why do you need a kit? Just ask for a suggestion of parts and well help out. Either way you need to put all the pieces together so having a kit doesn't do anything different but give worse temps
 

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There are many faq's on how to setup watercooling, I was scared before I ordered mine, do a little research before you think about watercooling anymore and check the setup process, the process is same from kit to custom, only diffrence is you have to get the parts yourself. We can help you out with that if needed


Secondly, do it with bagties.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
-.o I'm fifteen. I don't want a load of threads telling me how I should buy a custom setup that I can't afford.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by CorruptedCard

-.o I'm fifteen. I don't want a load of threads telling me how I should buy a custom setup that I can't afford.

Well save yourself some time and money and buy a xp-120 or a big typhoon.
 

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im 15
i have a part time job, and I shop smart
get a job man
shouldnt be too hard

so this kit is self conatined?
like it came with the water in it and you cant add any?

if you can add more water
(use distilled if u do!!!!!)

get a big bowl and drain the coolant into it
(take the water block and remove the tubing) and turn on the system power, but unplug the 4 pin AUX as not to fry the CPU

the pump will remove all the water left in the resivior that will cause a problem

take the barbs out of the black tubing and put them into the clear tubing
add the dye to the distilled water and refill the tank, get in as much as you can and the nseal the resivoir

TADAH!!
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by CorruptedCard

-.o I'm fifteen. I don't want a load of threads telling me how I should buy a custom setup that I can't afford.

I am 16 and I just build my first watercooling system... Its not that hard. You build your own computer right?

Check out my system:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ctures-my.html

And look at my thread on custom builds:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ng-wc-kit.html

I hope you consider custom as it is the way to go... You wouldn't buy a Dell Computer KIT, so why would you buy a watercooling kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, I built my own system.
I'm on an extreme budget and my mistake to buy this cooler has already been made. =/
 

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Quote:


I'm on an extreme budget and my mistake to buy this cooler has already been made. =/

ahh bummer man


well in that case like said earlier youll have to get some of the right size tubing and switch it out, im not to familier with that system so i cant go in to how to take it apart (maybe somme pics ...), gl

edit= ok i found it its easy all you need is some plieers to squeez the retaing clips on the hoses (which will open them up) and take them off , now i couldnt find out the size of the hose to use so you will need to measure or read the manual to find the hose inside diameter and find the clear replacement for it like tygon or something

does it have a fill port of anytype or offer instructions for changing the fluid if so follow those for refillingif not then that may be a little tricky
 

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Too bad about getting locked in to a kit--piecing it together is actually cheaper...the sysem you bought is sealed after being bled of air--a good thing--changing out the hoses and re-filling will introduce some air, not that big a deal really--when you refill it just remember the air will need to escape--and it wants to rise up, so arrange the parts (before installing) so that the air can percolate up to an opening--gentling tapping and rotating the rad will help release any air bubbles trapped in the coils.

You will need to use some hose clamps when refitting the tubes. Although poly tubing from the hardware store will work, it tends to harden over time. The best stuff for long term use would be Tygon lab grade tubing (Sidewindercomputer) and you should refill with either premixed antifreeze (like Zerex) or deionized water (you get from the auto parts) and a corrosion inhibitor (or just use Antifreeze)

A note here--this can get messy and antifreeze is kinda toxic--so avoid ingesting any, and wear rubber gloves when filling the lines.

You could always add a resevoir (you could make one for free) if filling the lines with a funnel and bleeding them doesn't work out--be sure to seal your fittings on the res with some goop (or silicon) and let it dry. I used rubber washers and the antifreeze started to eat them up... I tapped and fitted plastic barbs and then stress cracks formed--I ended up using some goop from loctite that dries clear and its fine now for over 6 months.

Good luck!
 

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hey bud, first of you need to figure out what the ID Inner Diameter) of the hose not the OD (outer diameter). then i would go to home depot and get some..then go to frozencpu.com and over to anti kink for the hose..but that will be measured by the OD..all of this will be very cheap. you can go to my thread and look at what i'v done for some ideas. But the fellas ^ are right..unless its a custom kit..your better off buying new hardware..or buying a 50.00 heat sink and fan. i used some cheap hose clamps from home depot...around 67 to 97 cents a peice ,not the best choice in my opinon but i'v never had problems before.
 

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after reading about it
it says it was vaccum sealed

but if u changed the tubing
adding a resivoir wouldnt be too hard to do

I dont think it has to be in a vaccum to work
 
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